GeneralDisorder

If I were doing it I would likely just shorten the control arms and also reinforce them at the same time. Kill two birds that way and don't have to mess with the x-member. Just cut out a slice in the straightest section - make it 1/8" more than what you need to remove. Then weld the two peices back together with a section of 1/8" flat bar inbetween to reinforce. Then fully box the ends for strength. GD

Bad sending unit or partially shorted wire. But you may also need a new pump anyway. Subaru's are often neglected and the oil pumps take the hit first when people fail to change the oil and it bypasses the filter for prolonged periods. GD

This is a common subaru failure. The seal in the transmission that keeps gear oil out of the cable has failed. The cable acts like a screw and sucks gear oil into the speedo head. The speedo, cable, and seal will all have to be replaced for an effective and lasting repair. Anything less will last only a short time or not work at all. GD

Because of the location of the ECU in the XT body, it is somewhat common to have the wireing loom become corroded and damged where it runs through the body and door sills, etc. At this point it is almost a sure bet with the amount of work you have had done. You should remove the carpet and trim to access the wireing loom and inspect for corrosion damage. The stock wireing loom has "splices" that consist of bare wire crimped with copper rings then covered with a rubber sleeve and electrical tape. The tape gets old and hard, then the water leaks in and the copper turns to copper sulfate (green stuff). GD

Threebond is a brand, not a type, of sealant. There are many varieties of Threebond - just as there are many varieties of Permatex. Some of it is VERY different from the stuff availible in the states. I happen to have occasion to use actual Threebond products in my work. For the case halves, use loctite 518. RTV is not reccomended.

I really don't think that will work well. The inside tire will not slow at all in a turn so you will be pulled straight off the course....unless it's straight line drag racing in dirt... But I've never tried it so who knows - maybe in dirt it won't matter so much. I would expect the handling to be very unpredictable - based mostly on how hard or soft the dirt is on any particular day. Welding is great for slow speed crawling and mudding, etc. It's not really a good choice for racing though. Lockers are one thing but you can easily turn them off. GD

How much different is the VF7 flange compared to the TD04? I was under the impression they were the same..... at least my TD05 is the same as my VF11 on my legacy. You have any spare stock turbo's Rob? GD

Unfortunately if they have been allowed to tick like that for long they will likely need to be replaced again. When they tick they wear due to their increased movement as they are not cusioned by oil. You oil pump should be replaced, as well as both the relief springs on the lifter supply banjo bolts - they get weak and allow oil to bypass the lifters. The pump may be putting out enough pressure, but it likely has issues with sucking air due to worn spots in the pump drive shaft and clearance issues. Fixing the problem often entails replacing the pump, all the lifters, and the relief springs. GD

If you can't feel it then it's not a problem. GD

Doesn't look that bad to me. The second compression ring should be below that anyway. I would run it. These aren't swiss watches. Run iron rings - chrome faced rings will take forever to seat in. GD

Center lamp means it's an 82 GL. They were not equipped past 82. 80 and 81 would have center lamps but the door is a larger chrome subaru logo. The 82 center lamp door is black with a smaller logo. Also 82's would have chrome bumpers (even 4WD's) and chrome trim rings around the tail-lights. GD

Get hold of yourself man - it's an 82 wagon. It's worth less than your shirt. GD

Tons - the difference is they use air bags and press a button while you are out busting your knuckles on a silly nut that is going to stiffen your suspension and throw off your camber. Seriously - it's a stupid feature and only results in people going places they shouldn't go without a lift and causing uneccesary tire wear and poor fuel economy. If they served a useful purpose I would be all for it. Sadly they do not and thus the reason the feature was dropped on EA82's and up. GD

Agree with Monstaru - the adjusters are silly and unecesary. They throw the camber way off and they make the front springs too stiff. They should be left down at all times. If you need the extra clearance make 1" spacer blocks instead. They are also a pain in the royal butt to adjust as most often they are rusty or full of muck and mud. GD

The small clutch is a bad option for large tires. It slips like crazy trying to take off. It's no good off-road either. GD

They are availible in the aftermarket - Autozone carries them. I've seen them personally and they are adjustable exactly like the originals. GD

probably means six years of freezing temperatures and bad coolant blew out a freeze plug. When they pop out all the coolant drains into the pan. GD

Yeah - if you had asked here first you wouldn't be in this mess. Unfortuntely that scenario is well known. They do fit - they just aren't adjustable - KYB doesn't care about the problem it would seem. GD

Cracked heads are impossibly rare on EA81's. If it has overheating problems it is very likely the radiator, thermostat, or air in the system. If you are losing coolant it could be the head gasket or it could be a freeze plug has come out. Is it burning coolant or do you have coolant in the oil? The engine in your '82 is quite reliable and not prone to any particular faiure - generally what gets them in the end is lack of lubrication system maintenance. If it has had poor oil change history then the oil pump is likely to need replacing as the filters clog and the bypass valve inside the filter protects the engine by allowing oil to bypass the clogged element - resulting in wear and failure of the oil pump. GD

Professional or not, if they don't use a bore plate to pre-stress the block it's almost a gaurantee it will fail. GD

Is it on the drivers-side top, or smack in the middle of the top? GD

All the Subaru power steering systems I've used and maintained have been plain old ATF (and I prefer it that way). That includes EA81's, EA82's(T), and EJ22's(T). GD

You can't bore a sleeved aluminium block without a bore-plate to hold it in the torqued posistion relative to the other case half and the head. If you bore it any other way there is a high probability that at least one piston sleeve will spin. That almost always means it's not worth it to bother. Get another block and do a light hone. GD

LOL for the justy steering wheel, pimped out pedal pads, and legacy overflow bottle. Kids these days..... jeez. GD

This an EA82 then I take it? I did something similar with my EA81 wagon - 40 MPH, washboarded trail, etc. But in my case it bent the bottom of the strut like a bannana. The fix is to install a second shock - a mounting point will have to be fabbed to the control arm. Extra dampening will prevent it from slamming the wheel up too hard and fast and breaking stuff. Rguyver has done this to a couple different wheeling rigs after he discovered this propensity while jumping his EA81 hatch 20+ feet in the air GD