GeneralDisorder

You don't know that, but you can test your theory - gravity feed the carb with a funnel and some hose. GD

Only on 80/81 models. On 82 and newer the alternator is internally regulated and the fuel pump is controlled by a Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU) or by the ecu directly on injected models. Your lean condition is probably related to the either the carb or incomplete ignition due to the ignition coil not working properly with large amounts of AC current. Not the power output line - you need to check the sensing line going to the two pin plug on the back of the alt. It runs from the main junction to the back of the alt - through the fuse panel, idiot light and ignition switch. GD

It isn't - 80 through 82 used the 200mm clutch. 83 through 89 2WD's used the same 200mm clutch. It's the 83 and newer 4WD's that use the 225mm clutch. I have told you this - third time now. Call Discount Import Parts in Milwaukie or go to the dealer. This is not an unusual clutch - hell Autozone can get them easily. As for the interchangeability - the 200mm and 225mm interchange without issue. You have to use the flywheel, disc and pressure plate for the 200mm. Personally I throw the 200mm's in the trash as they are too small for a 4WD. GD

I wouldn't use a grade 8 bolt - it's got no spring to it and wouldn't withstand the push and pull of the splines sliding. The roll pin has a certain amount of flex in it. It would probably work for a while but I would take the axle back if it wasn't fitting properly. That's either the wrong axle or it was machined improperly. Either is more than just possible. GD

I don't beleive the fuel pump has anything to do with your problem. The alternator has only a few connections but the voltage sensing line is the most vulnerable to problems as it runs through the ignition switch, an idiot light, and a fuse on it's way from the main junction (the fuseable links). I would start there - check the entire circuit for voltage drop from the positive battery post to the back of the alt. If you see more than 0.10v drop across the circuit then you need to find the cause of the bad connection. A high resistance connection in the sensing circuit will cause the alt to overcharge thinking it's compensating for a drain where there is none. And make sure the battery is FULLY charged before installing a new alt. The alt is not meant to charge the battery from dead or nearly so - you will kill it doing that. GD

Perhaps you have a 25 spline axle and a 23 spline stub? That's the only way I know of for them to not line up. I've installed more axles than I care to remember (several dozen anyway) and I've never had one that didn't line up with at most a 180 degree turn. GD

Excelent - so what are you looking for in an exhaust then? There isn't any real performance to be gained being it's a non-turbo..... so are you looking for a different sound? GD

Why would you want a racing belt on a 2.2? That really makes no kind of sense. I doubt they even make one for the SOHC. GD

And you should be MUCH more concerned with head gaskets than with the exhaust. Trust me on this one. If they haven't been done then you are looking at doing them or having them done real soon. GD

They are a dime a dozen. Not worth converting IMO. GD

Why do you think this? GD

You have the splines 180 degrees out. It only lines up one way. GD

That is not the way the system works. You need ONE port on the filter. From there you T into two 5/8" hoses - one goes to the passenger side head. The other reduces to 1/4" ID then back to 5/8" and T's into the line from the drivers side head to the PCV valve. The key to making it work is the reduction to 1/4" ID to give an orificed vacuum break on the PCV line. Otherwise it will have too much suction and will pull oil out of the driver's side head. GD

Ah now i see - you are refering to the leading rod mount. I'll have a look at what can be done tonight when i have access to an EA82 body. GD

Good - where did you get it for $339? I have not see it priced that low before. Perhaps the economy has driven down the prices. GD

Yeah - the Hitachi's can be a pain to rebuild. It's hard to say what's wrong with the one's you have, but I'm sure a Weber will fix it and the added low-end torque and better throttle response is a bonus. You ordered the adaptor plate as well right? GD

"forward block of the strut mount"?? I'm not following.... perhaps if you post a picture. I know the EA82's use a three-bolt strut top - are you saying the strut tower itself is starting to crack at the forward hole? Do you have seperate blocks for each strut bolt? If so the fix is to make new strut lift blocks that incorporate the three mounts into a single 1/4" thick plate..... and of course weld up the damage thus far before installing it. You need to spread the load out as currently the stress fracture is probably because the weight is on that one more than the other two. GD

I don't pull them - probably because in the vast majority of cases I'm just doing the HG to get the car on the road. The EA82 falls into the same catagory as a camry or a civic to me. Those engines are dead in my eyes and I don't spend the meticulous hours on them that I would contribute to an EJ22T or an EA81 etc. That's not to say that I don't do the job right - I am meticulous when it comes to the soundness of the repair - I'm just not going to steam clean the thing, media blast, paint, etc. I pull the intake and exhaust, radiator, accesory belts and timing set. Then I pull the rocker covers and carefully remove the cam towers making sure to note the posistion of the rockers. I cut a peice of cardboard and make 8 X's with a utility knife and arrows to show the front of the engine with a sharpie. I insert the rockers and the lifters in pairs into the X's in the cardboard and set the whole thing aside. I then pull both heads and inspect. If they need milled I have that done. I generally lap the valves and replace the stem seals. I wire wheel every bolt, chase every internal thread with the appropriate tap, and test fit every one to insure they are smooth and will torque properly without binding. I prep all the surfaces by hand with a razor blade and brown scotch-brite. I properly prep the intake and exhaust manifold nuts/bolts - dissasembling any studs that have frozen to the nuts and wire wheeling as appropriate. I wire wheel the intake and exhaust flanges. When all the parts are prepped I begin assembly. I lay everything out on clean shop rags and take inventory. I jack the engine off the cross member on the side I'm working to assure no coolant is present at the HG mating suface of the block. I install the head gasket and head (no coatings on the gasket or surfaces - just clean and dry). I torque the bolts in the proper order making sure the bolt threads are oiled and there is no binding. The procedure is done in three steps ending at (IIRC) 65 Ft/lbs - this is about 5 or 7 lbs over the book reccomendation and I do it to avoid the need to retorque them after a run-in. It has been my experience and other's here on this board that this works well. That's pretty much it - you reassemble the rest, time the thing and dump in some coolant. I have yet to have one fail after doing a HG job. It does take me longer to do it than most people because I'm extremely anal about my work. But on the EA82's I don't go to the trouble of cleaning things that don't affect the job I'm doing. I scrape enough gunk off to do the job and that's it. I suspect in the future I may never do another one unless it's for a friend - I won't own one and I doubt I'll be accepting any for free except as 5 speed donors - to the scrap heap with the rest of the blighted thing. GD

That is true, but as far as size they are all the same. The baffling isn't neccesary as you can overcome the same problem with a surge tank - a lot easier than finding a turbo tank and you don't have to change the tank (really not a pleasant job). Unless of course you need the 4WD diff clearance - then you are changing the tank - have fun with that dirty job. Not one I'll be doing again if I can help it. GD

Drain the tank (the bolt on the bottom of the tank). Then remove the fuel level sender (carefully as the studs can break off) and look inside. If it's a mess in there (rust, etc) then just replace the tank. You'll have to pull it to have it cleaned and there's just no reason as there's plenty of good tanks to be had for cheap here in the NW. GD

It is not the same as stock if you don't have the exact same diameter hoses as stock. When you are talking about flow rates and directions, hose diameter plays a huge role. Often in vacuum systems you have to carefully "tune" the system by use of very accurate "orifices" that are inserted to restrict flow rates at certain points. I have explained how the system works in other threads and it's tireing to do it over and over. Do a search for "PCV" and my user name and I'm sure you'll find it. GD

The hatch is no different than any other post-82 EA81 4WD. They are all the same. I have never had any trouble getting the right parts when you ask for the the right year. It's a 225mm disc. Try Discount Import Parts on McGlaughlin Blvd. And of course the dealer can get you a kit easily. GD

You don't want a BOV - it will reduce your performance between shifts (closed throttle). The stock BPV is much more efficient. The only reason people install BOV's is for the sound. GD

The first one you got was for an EA82. The second was for an EA81 2WD or 80 to 82 4WD's You need a clutch for an 84 4WD. GD

I suppose since I'm the closest thing to a resident expert on the feedback carbs I can take a crack at giving you a rundown of the system. The feedback system incorporates primarily only two sensors (although later EA82 systems used more). The primary sensor it uses is the O2 sensor (narrow-band of course). Ancillery to that is the coolant temp sensor. Beyond the sensors there are two duty solenoids that control air-flow to the air-bleed's of the carb. The duty solenoids operate in a continuous feedback loop with the O2 sensor - the computer interprets a rich or lean signal from the O2 and uses a sqaure wave signal to rapidly turn the duty solenoids on and off. The frequency with which they turn on and off determines the amount of air allowed through them and to the air-bleeds in the carb. Carefully setup, it can control the air/fuel ratio surprisingly well. Unfortunately there are many drawbacks. For one the jetting of the carb has to be set rich so that the duty solenoids can lean it out by restricting flow. When they cease to function or are removed the result is horrible fuel mileage. Additionally, repair parts and obscenely expensive and it really doesn't perform that much better than a standard non-feedback carb. Maybe 1 or 2 mpg - if that. Besides the direct problems related to the system, the fact that they used the exact same carb on non-feedback models means that the whole lot of them are built with these metering ports for the modification of the air-fuel ratio. On the non-feedback models they are still used! The system is complex and uses vacuum valves to direct airflow through the metering ports under different throttle conditions. Basically what I can tell you after many years of messing with these carbs is that eventually my understanding of them led me to toss them all in the dumpster and go with better forms of fuel management. First the Weber (which is nice and simple), and more recently I did a whole write up about converting the EA81 to run on the EA82's throttle body fuel injection. You can read it here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD