GeneralDisorder

It would do a lot of harm - but not much *more* harm than your current system which is not doing the job either. The goal is to remove blow-by gasses from the crankcase - in the old days this was done with a road draft tube, but that became unacceptable with the environmental movement. The PCV system needs a directional flow - in one head and out the other then to the PCV valve. But you need a smaller diameter hose between the second head and the PCV valve going back to the air filter in order to break the high vacuum and prevent oil being sucked into the manifold. GD

For the most part I really don't like RTV. Properly prepared mating surfaces rarely need it and the OEM gaskets don't call for it for a reason (they are graphite impregnated and the RTV defeats the purpose). Especially in places that can come into contact with gasoline as RTV melts when exposed to gas. It's great for turning cork gaskets into psudo-rubberized gaskets as the biggest problem with the cork is that over time it absorbs oil, which eventually carbonizes and turns the gasket to an oily, hard, shrunken mess. RTV stops the absorbtion of oil and provides a decent sealing surface so it's great for that. GD

There are two temp sensors - one for the gauge and another, entirely seperate sensor for the fuel injection computer. You need to run a d-check and see what codes it pulls. GD

Maybe if you had 220v and an electric motor that could do 80,000 RPM. Otherwise no. It's a gimmick. It won't do anything. GD

People have succesfully gone to 10 psi boost with an intercooler (it doesn't have one stock). But you still risk head and head gasket failure. Here's how the EA82T stacks up: 1. The reliable HP limit seems to be about 150 HP. In the 80's Subaru did build some race versions that reached 175 HP used for rally in europe - but as with any race prepped version it got rebuilt often and no one expected it to hold up to long term abuse. They also had access to many custom peices that are no longer available. 2. The head and head/block interface are the main problems. First the heads are thin in the area between the water jacket and the exhaust port - being that both cylinders exhaust into the same port you tend to see sustained high temperatures in that area and as a result they crack. The crack extends from between the valves down into the water jacket and they blow coolant out the exhaust or drip it in the ground. Subaru built three generations of heads trying to fix this problem and never adequately solved it. The solution was to phase out the engine when the new EJ series was ready for production. Second - because of how wide the engine is (due to the overhead cams being an afterthought to the big-picture of the engine design), it would be impossible to remove the heads from the vehicle if Subaru had used studs to secure them. Thus they used bolts. The block is aluminium and the torque values that can be acheived using bolts is insufficient to hold the head gaskets at anything above 10 psi boost. Want to install studs you say? You have ARP on the line you say? Unfortunately they are going to have a price you won't like. Subaru used a very oddball thread size and pitch - 11mm x 1.25. You can have them custom made - about $800 for a set. Third - even if you solved this problem the heads flow so poorly that you still wouldn't break the 200 HP barrier. The design limitations of the engine are just too great. People that have gone this far have broken rods and collapsed ring lands trying to get more power out. And if you *did* somehow manage to reliably get to 200HP - the transmission wouldn't hold the power. Anything over 200HP and the EA series 5 speed will just disintigrate. If for some reason you really wanted it, here's the formula: Forged pistons Forged rods ARP head studs O-ring the block Port the heads The problem is really the cost. I can buy several EJ engines that will have more HP with NO modifications for the price of building one Hi-Po EA82T. And you still have an engine with 3 main bearings, poorly designed dual timing belt system that rarely lasts over 50k miles, and a huge headache to work on - especially now that you have put studs in the block and have to yard the engine out to pull the heads For comparison, my 91 EJ22T (2.2 liter single turbo) was 165 HP out of the box. With only exhaust and an intercooler I'm somewhere around 200 HP. Plus the EJ's have the advantage of a considerable aftermarket in the WRX's and STi's. I can buy almost anything my heart desires and my engine is easily capable of 600 HP+ if I wanted that. GD

XT6 rear sway would be the largest diameter availible in that style. You do have to weld the tabs on for the bar. Make a set or cut them off of another set of trailing arms. GD

Yeah - it's going to break - no question about that. To put it in perspective.... if I (or anyone else around here that knows EA series engines) were to purchase an unknown EA82T and wanted to put it into daily driver type condition it would probably take around $1000 in parts and many hours of labor to put it up to spec and be reasonably certain that it wasn't going to leave me stranded. They had undersized cooling systems and the first thing that must be done is replace the radiator with a dual-core and change every hose (there's a lot) in the entire engine bay. Keeping them cool is paramount as the heads and head gaskets will not take even a single overheat at their age. A full reseal of the engine would be in order if DD status were to be assured. Pull the engine - replace head gaskets with fel-pro permatorque's, and replace every other seal on the the thing. New oil and water pumps, new timing belts, and all new tensioners and idler. You WILL NOT get away with anything less than a full engine pull and reseal with new accesories. Really you would probably be lucky if you didn't have to replace the heads with some Gen III's - they tend to crack. Basically with any EA82T purchase you are lucky if you get a runnabl short block (and that is by no means assured). You have to figure the rest is garbage or the rest WILL be garbage when something goes south. Best option is to yank the engine and install a newer Legacy engine without the turbo. More power - no problems. GD

Interesting. You might have a bad vacuum brake booster. Try doing the same thing but using the E-Brake instead of the brake pedal and see if it still does the low idleing thing. If it doesn't I would be willing to bet your brake booster is leaking. GD

I had one of my EA81 Hitachi's stick almost completely closed about a dozen times before I finally figured out what was going on. It would happen anytime - at a stop light or cruising down the freeway - hot, cold.... didn't matter. Finally replaced the crappy aftermarket needle and seat that came in the rubuild kit that I had used with an OEM set from another carb and the issue never returned. I would say there's a good chance you are having a similar issue. Just one of the reasons people have come to hate the stock carbs. Also because they are gutless and a waste of perfectly good aluminium..... but I digress. GD

Right on - hope it works out for you. Don't expect a lot of reliability from the EA82T though. More than one person has had to seek professional help due to the communist gnomes making weapons inside their turbo engine. GD

Sometimes. They are made transparent so you can see the element inside them. If the fuse is blown there will be a break in the element and often a burnt looking spot on the plastic. You can also check them with a circuit tester - that's just a probe with a light bulb and a battery that will light up if the fuse is good or not light if it's bad. You can pick up a circuit tester at harbor frieght for less than $5. Very useful for things like this. Well - it does two things. When the engine is cold, gasoline (which only ignites as a vapor) tends to condense into liquid droplets (which do not ignite) on the cold cylinder walls. Much like moisture from the air condenses on the outside of your cold beer can. Same effect. Until the engine warms up and this condensing of the fuel ceases, the engine needs extra fuel to compensate for the condesation losses. The choke provides this extra fuel by restricting the air supply to the carburetor. Think of the carb as a metering device for fuel and air - the engine's vacuum sucks in fuel and air through the carb and depending on how the carb is setup (jetting, etc), the posistion of the throttle (gas pedal), and the posistion of the choke, you will get different ratio's of air to fuel. Ideal ratio's for combustion are around 14.7:1, but when the engine is cold it may need 10:1 or less for proper operation. Thus the choke restricts air flow and thus decreases the ratio of air to fuel. At the same time it also increases the idle speed to insure the engine warms up in a timely manner and runs smooth durring the warm-up period. It is an elecric device and so is provided 12v from one of the fuses. It may not immediately be clear which fuse operates the choke so I reccomend you check them all to be sure. Is that with the parking brake on or with your foot on the brake pedal? GD

Yep - that's how I remember it working. I do have a cherry picker and often an open bay in my garage for stuff like this. In the future if you need a hand and a place to work send me a PM and we'll talk. It wouldn't be the first time I've had someone's dead rig in my garage GD

It's actually quite easy with the engine in the car. I never pull them for a simple head gasket replacement. What specifically are you having trouble with? GD

If there is any resistance in the sense wire the alt will try to keep up with an imaginary load and it will fail in short order as they are not designed for constant high-load. I have fought this on EA81's in the past as the wireing and connectors for much of the harness are old and poorly insulated against water intrusion. GD

The choke isn't working entirely as designed. There are two parts to the choke - the choke plate iteself, and the mechanism that increases the cold idle through a three-notched cam. It's basically not serviceable easily on the car. If you dismount the carb you might be able to correct it on the bench but it also might just be worn out. If it's otherwise running OK and you just have to baby it for less than a minute in the mornings..... leave it be. The Hitachi's are complex machines and if it's working good beyond the first 30 secconds.... you are miles ahead of where you could be and you might cause more problems than you solve messing with it. GD

Pull the wire on the plug end. Just follow the wire from the distributor to any of the 4 plugs. Obviously you have spark now though since it's running. The nature of problems that are transitory is that it is going to be difficult for someone with no in-depth knowledge of internal combustion engines to postulate on the possible causes because by the time you come back to it the problem has dissapeared. It sounds like possibly a choke issue. Check all your fuses to start with. Pull each one out and see if any are blown. GD

Probably not. I've run Weber's without the return line using the stock pump and never had any trouble. GD

Have you considered renting a cherry picker and pulling the engine? GD

The EJ swap is considerably more expensive and requires the ability to haul/move/lift a new engine into place. It is not the answer for a lot of folks. While I agree that it's an excelent option to have, it is not the *right* option for most people. In these economic times it is especially useful to have the option of a bolt-on fuel and ignition system that can be had for a reasonable price. The SPFI is the answer to those that are fine with the overall power and economy of their engine, but have issues with the factory Hitachi carburetor - a new (rebuilt) replacement of which is more expensive than the components for the SPFI swap. As for what parts you need - those are listed in my conversion write up. Pricing varies widely among yards, but expect to spend around $200 for the used parts and probably a bit more for the bits and peices you need to install it. All-in it's aound half the price of a new Weber generally. GD

Double check the filter irregardless of when it was last replaced. A clogged PCV system can soak them with oil in only a few miles. You do want to pour the gas directly into the carb - yes that's the hole in the middle under the air filter cover. No more than about a 1/4" stream for a couple secconds or you will flood it. The spark is easy - you just pull off a plug wire and insert a paper clip with one leg straightened out into the plug boot. Then you hold it near a ground while cranking the engine (two people). You will see a spark jump from the clip to the ground. Don't touch the clip while you are doing this or you will get shocked. GD

If you have no power to the pump while cranking but you do when you stop cranking then I would suspect the fuel pump control unit above the hood release handle on the driver's kick panel. It's more than a relay. GD

Unfortunately it could be many things and without gathering more information we really aren't going to be able to help you. You need three things for combustion: Air Spark Fuel Being that it simply stalled and was running fine prior, lets assume that it's mechanically sound.... The first one is easy - check the air filter. Is it oil soaked or extremely dirty? If so remove it and see if the engine starts. If not move on to Spark and Fuel. Check the plugs and make sure you are getting power to the coil. Remove a plug boot, insert a paper clip or extra plug and see if there is a nice hot spark when you place the electrode or clip near a ground (engine block or head). If you have both air and spark, then you need to verify that you are getting fuel. A simple test is to pour a thin stream of gasoline down the carb (you have a can for your lawnmower right?) while cranking it. If it starts for a few seconds you have a fuel delivery problem. Check these items and get back with us. We must have more information to help you. GD

Yeah that's true about the shipping from the dealer web sites. My local dealer gives me a wholesale rate that is within 5% of the cheapest online dealers so very often I just buy from them. And they are 5 minutes from my house. Rockauto is particularly bad on shipping it seems. I priced out rotors and pads recently for my 91 SS - nearly $60 in shipping. Perhaps the west coast is not in their back yard. With the older stuff it's a waiting game almost no matter where you buy the stuff. The dealer doesn't stock any of it and neither do any of the local parts houses. Still - a lot of the OEM parts just can't be beat for quality. I would often rather wait for the dealer to get my parts in than have to do the job again in a few thousand miles. GD

Ah yes - the lonesome and empty feelings of regret when the much maligned EA82T bites back. Much like a pitbull - many of them seem to strike without warning.... unless you count the warnings from this board of course. Unfortunately there is no way we can help without a lot more information. It could be almost anything - and given the primitive nature of the EA82T's systems - it's highly likely that it's more than one thing. GD

I thought there might be an issue getting the up-pipe past the head/crossmember/frame rail without jacking the engine up. Last time I messed with an EA82T was probably over 5 years ago and I pulled the engine wholesale so I can't recall off the top of my head. I know it's a pain to get the up-pipe in past the head and cross-member on my EJ22T, but that's a different animal with a 4 peice header system.... GD