GeneralDisorder

Yes - that could easily be the case. If the wiring is damaged it may not be able to carry the load of the pump. The fuel pump control unit is designed to run the pump for about 1.5 seconds when the key is placed into the run position. Then it runs it continuously if you are cranking or the engine is running (whenever a tach signal is present from the coil). GD

They look a bit tall on the front edge but not bad. Do they give you any more headroom? I know that Isuzu Impulse seats are nearly a direct fit, but the set I have don't look quite like that - perhaps from a newer one? I know there were several body styles of Impulses and it's likely they used similar seat mountings..... but that's just a WAG. Do tell.... GD

Cleaning the electrical connection is a good idea. Although cleaning the sensor itself is not neccesary (and more trouble than it's worth to remove it), you should check the resistance of the CTS with a DMM and compare to the specs in the PDF that is linked from my write up. They are very often out of range by several thousand OHMS. In fact if the ECU had a function to recalibrate the temp sensors you would likely never need to replace them. Unfortunately it's expecting them to act as they do when they are new - as they age the resistance values change. It's just an artifact of the materials they are made from. The sensor is a potted thermistor or RTD (resistive temperature device). It changes it's resistance based on the temp of the outer brass jacket. The cleanliness of the jacket is only going to affect how quickly it responds to temp changes - but very minimally and being that the engine doesn't change temp rapidly under normal conditions it's really a non-issue. GD

With how plentiful they are, that's not too bad of an idea. Although it does make it a huge pita if you ever want to dissasemble the thing. But then you can just find a good used one in that case as they are everywhere.... for now. I don't personally like it because I'm just anal that way and I prefer to be able to replace the needle bearings and clean the optical pickup if needed. I also don't like welding on electronics - and the possibility of warpage is never good either. Drilling it is made a LOT easier with a drill press and some small v-blocks to hold it. GD

I understand - you want to beleive it's just an easy fix. I get that. However, this is a problem that the "majority" of people out there NEVER solve. Because they don't know how and they won't listed to those of us that do. I do this stuff every day. And I've owned about a dozen EA82's, including a few turbo's. Been on this board for around 7 years - seen a few things in that time. I own 6 Subaru's right now - not a single EA82T. They are crap and I don't have time for crap. Worst engine Subaru has ever made - BY FAR. But that's ok - you won't get anymore help from me. Have fun. GD

That's nice and all, but his car doesn't have an 02 sensor. Unless you are talking about the original poster? In which case he was so close to passing that a little denatured alcohol would bring it right in line easily. GD

If you read my write up on it you'll see that it's not as simple as swapping the gear - you have to drill a new hole for the roll pin. GD

Might have a different plug but it's going to be the same unit. In fact all incarnations of fuel injected EA82's (Turbo, MPFI, and SPFI) use the same distributor. It's just an optical CAS unit. GD

Haveing that ring in there (the washer you ground down and pressed over the copper tube) is not a good idea. The o-ring has to "crush" to do it's job and it looks like that will impede it from doing so. What will happen is the o-ring will not be able to expand (flatten) and the oil pump will not draw up tight to the mating surface on the block. If your entrap an o-ring like that it will not allow you to tighten the thing down - they are rubber, but given nowhere to go they will feel like steel. I've ecountered cases where I installed the wrong o-ring in a very accurately machined groove - the o-ring was too large and would not allow the mating surfaces to properly draw together. As a result i couldn't set the clearances properly till I changed the o-ring to a smaller diameter. The difference in diameter was 0.5mm.... see what I mean? That ring isn't going to work I'm afraid.... Also - the oil pressure gauge on these cars isn't to be trusted. They are notorious for being off. 55 psi at idle is extremely high and I would suspect a fualty sender or gauge. Unless that reading was cold? They shouldn't be read cold as it's a very poor metric to discuss here on the board - it's based on ambient temps and the multi-viscosity index of the oil you are using.... it means little. At least at operating temp you have a better chance as the thermostat should regulate the engine to around 200 degrees F and you will be within the normal ISO rating of the oil. I like to see no less than 20 psi hot idle and ideally around 25 psi. Ar cruise RPM it should be around 50 or 60 psi. GD

Agreed - you can't get that high of an HC reading without a severe idle miss. It's either a large vac leak somewhere, poor ignition, or low compression. GD

That's an interesting theory. Worth checking into. Although if you can get the tire place that sold them to you to rebalance them for free I would try that first. GD

That's actually not a bad idea for worn lifters - it moves the piston to a new spot inside the lifter where it's not worn. What generally causes this is a worn oil pump that doesn't put enough pressure out to the lifters - this results in lifter wear and TOD that you just can't stop without early intervention or replacing the lifters and the pump. As far as what causes the cam-case o-rings to get sucked in like that - my current theory is that the lifters are acting as tiny vacuum pumps - they are trying to suck in oil but the pressure from the pump just isn't there so they end up sucking on the o-ring's instead. It could also be some kind of strange venturi effect. I doubt we will ever know for sure.... but I'm betting someone at Subaru figured it out when they introduced the metal-reinforced o-rings for the cam cases. I wonder if there was a TSB about it.... GD

Yeah - I'll agree with that. I see more TW's than I do RX's.... but compared to EA82's as a whole they are about as rare as turbo legacy's but less common now due to being older. You don't see a lot of them that's for sure. GD

Or grind the ridge off on the bottom of the rotor and rotate it to where the pads are located. GD

They aren't that rare - I've seen at least a dozen in the last few years. Not counting any from the board. It does up the price a bit though - more desireable IMO. Of all the EA82 bodies - the TW and the RX are the most desireable. GD

THIS is sucked in: EA82 cam case o-ring (non-metal type). GD

That's not even close to sucked in - sucked in o-rings will have a V in them and be completely inside the oil passage. Been there, done that. And at 183k, it's a pretty safe bet that it needs a new oil pump... AND lifters. Their both done. I can virtually garauntee that your TOD will not change any appreciable amount by replacing that o-ring. It's not bad for one, and your problem is the oil pressure and the lifters. If it's been ticking for as long as the PO says it has - long enough that they have tried repair's in a bottle - the lifters are worn out. As I noted above - the o-ring isn't sucked in to any degree that would indicate a problem here. That is a problem mostly with the ER27's, not the EA82's. Your's reinforces that. It isn't sucked in, thus there isn't a problem, thus I wouldn't do anything stint wise - just leave it be. And if I were going to do something like a stint - I would want a better fit than that. But that's me. It would probably work - if you count "doing a job that doesn't need to be done" *working*. GD

I haven't had any problems. They have pictures of the parts online and if it doesn't match what I need then I don't buy it. You do have to be somewhat intelligent about searching for parts in any inventory system. It's the nature of the scale of consumer production. GD

Just the oil pump gasket will likely not fix the problem. First, as you can see from the old gasket, the EA82's don't suck the gasket in like the ER27's do. It's much less common anyway, and while it's good to replace the gasket it's most likely not going to fix ticking lifters that have been ticking for a while. You will probably have to replace the cam case o-rings - the new ones are metal reinfoced and the old rubber ones have likely been sucked in. If that doesn't fix it then you probably will need new lifters. Once they start ticking for any length of time they get worn and will never stop. GD

www.rockauto.com GD

Yeah - it's no problem when you have access to a 45 CFM blast cabinet with a lazy-susan inside! Takes about an hour to do a set of rims generally. GD

I have noticed that the EA81's are VERY sensitive to wheel balance. So much that the normal wheel balance that schwab does doesn't seem to be good enough - either their machine isn't calibrated right or the monkeys don't know how to use it. I would have them redone and have the weights put on the inside of the rim. If you are getting that much vibration at speed it is probably because the wheel balance is off and it's transmitting it through the steering rack directly to the wheel. GD

Yes - if you want it bad enough. As he mentions the older units have external ignitors mounted on the coil. GD

Check the driveline u-joints and all four drivetrain rubber mounts. Just for giggles - put a dial indicator on each rotor. Probably won't find anything but it would still be nice to know. GD

The fan has nothing to do with the thermostat - you need to troubleshoot the fan wireing - check the thermo-switch as sugested. DO NOT overheat the EA82T. You will kill it. That engine especially can't take it. GD