GeneralDisorder

When you say you "swapped plug wires".... what exactly did you do? The EJ engines like new plug wires about annually. OEM or NGK are recommended. 1/3 use the same side of the coil (wasted spark ignition) so that vaguely points to an ignition failure - I would normally suspect the coil but you swapped that out. GD

This belongs in the New Gen forum, and as to the cam - almost certainly a different profile and likely a different design as the EJ18 uses a quite different lifter/rocker arrangement. I would source a proper 22 cam as they are quite common. GD

"Fuel Injector Cleaner" is largely bunk. Mostly what that stuff does is clean carbon deposits from valves - Techron is generally considered to be the top of the line for cleaners such as this. GD

Try using the plug tool that came with the car's tool kit. It is designed for this purpose after all. Having the right wobbly's and extensions makes the job a lot easier. You need a broad selection to find the right combination that does the job without pain and suffering. GD

First - keyless entry doesn't seem to have been an option. I have looked through the Subaru parts information and I can find kits for 95+ but not for gen 1's. That doesn't mean that an aftermarket system wouldn't work although I haven't investigated that. As for getting the key out - pull the handle/lock assembly and you'll be able to get to the broken key from the backside of the lock. Should just push out with a small implement. Now would be a good time to lube all the pivot bushings of the locking and latching rods inside the door, and also some dry grease for the lock tumbler itself. GD

Get one from an EA81 or from a 90 to 94 Legacy - they are mounted in the engine bay. The EA81 unit has a bracket that should be pretty simple to find a place to mount. The Legacy one is contoured but with some creativity it would work. GD

We need a better description of the problem. "car won't start" is vague and most of us don't care to spend valuable time speculating. If that's all the better you can describe it then you best take it to a shop. GD

All EA82T rear discs are not the same. There are two different piston sizes and that affects lockup pressure. GD

Same from EA81's all the way through to at least the late 90's EJ's. A coworker needed one for his 97 OB, and we installed one from my collection of EA81 stuff. GD

Subaru's use a diagonal braking system, so if you are using aftermarket bias valves you need two - one for each rear circuit. You install them inline with each rear circuit where they exit the body under the bed. GD

Subaru distributors are designed for ported vacuum, not manifold vacuum. You will have full advance at idle if you run manifold vacuum to them (unless they don't work, which is often the case). GD

As long as you will never be doing panic braking, you don't need one.... For the rest of us, it keeps the rear from locking before the front. I did a wet-pavement skid test both ways and without the valve your rear axle will pass you - I ended up facing 180 degrees out in the oncoming lane from about a 60 MPH skid. With the valve the skid is straight and tight. GD

Have to be careful with cast iron. Chase the threads, use a bit of anti-seize, and then a torque wrench. I found out the hard way with cast iron. I broke a large casting on a centrifugal blower housing by over-tightening it - I didn't have a spec on the proper torque but I still should have known better. Ended up having a machine shop weld it back together - very difficult with cast iron as it has to be pre-heated in an oven, welded hot, then cooled slowly. Even then it had to be machined back to spec. GD

Get a Holly-Weber 5200 and a DGV/DFV adapter plate for the EA82 manifold you have. The 5200 is a licensed copy of the DFV and was used on many Ford's (Pinto's, Cortina's, ect) in the 70's. They can be had cheap on ebay. Or do the SPFI converson. Don't waste your time with the Hitachi or the Carter. GD

Replacing the timing gears is pointless. They really don't wear out. Don't bore it over unless you have a machinist with a bore-plate for the EA71 as you need to simulate the head being attached. If you don't there's a high probability you will spin the liners during break-in. There's no need to go to all the trouble you are planning - put new bearings in it (mic the crank of course), cross-hatch the cylinders, new iron rings (chrome is a waste and they take forever to break in), and do the heads of course (mill, valve grind, ect). Throw it together and run it. GD

CCR does not build EA71's anymore. They can no longer source the head gaskets from Subaru and other necessary components to rebuild them are becoming scarce. Unfortunately it will be difficult to get parts for them and the problem is only getting worse. GD

55k to 60k on the EA82 belts. The newer EJ engines can go much longer (100k+) which is what I'm assuming the last poster is referring to. The EA82 belts were spec'd for 60k but they often don't make it that long. It's an inferior, thin timing belt and there are two of them rather than one. It's a rather obscure belt system as timing belts go. GD

You should note, if you aren't already aware, that Grant wheels use a 5 bolt pattern rather than the Momo's 6 bolt and the two are not compatible. GD

US bumpers are required to pass tests that AUS bumpers are not. GD

Momo used to make one - they have been out of production for a few years now. I believe Grant still makes one or your can search ebay. They are not the same as the EJ's or the EA81's. GD

UGLY. Remember these are transmissions, differentials, and transfer cases all in one unit. Many parts, lots of precision shimming and adjusting. The 5 speed's are actually simpler in design than the 4's. It's far cheaper and less time consuming to just find another one. All the parts needed to rebuild one correctly would cost more than a good used tranny. And 5 speed's are a dime a dozen. GD

Syncro's may be optional, but the design of the 4 speed causes them to fall out of gear when you let off the gas. They don't just wear and grind - they wear out and then are so sloppy they won't stay in gear without holding them there with your hand. It's usually 3rd. I've also seen them so bad the shift dog's wouldn't grab unless you held them in gear quite forcefully while releasing the clutch. GD

Sorry but no. The EJ engine was developed independently beginning in 1985. The EA82 was an evolution of the EA81 with overhead cams and carrier's added on top of slightly modified EA81 head designs. The block and heads are near identical to the EA81 dual-carb engines, and the EA82 turbo is the logical evolution of the EA81 turbo using the EA82 overhead cam designs and dual-port heads. It is my opinion the EA82's OHC design did not improve upon the EA series. Not for the consumer anyway. The EJ was developed by a seperate research group from 1985 to 1989 - it is a completely new design using none of the EA82 style OHC components. It was designed from the outset for turbo-charged applications. It was also the first Subaru engine designed entirely with CAD. GD

It's not a recommended combination without supporting mods like an intercooler. The EA82T's are not 8.5:1, they are 7.7:1, and not real reliable even at that. The carb blocks are 8.5:1. Dump the whole mess and install an EJ22. More power and 10x more reliable. GD

The final ratio is the same yes, but the low range is lower on the 5 speed. It's 1.45:1 on the 4 speed, and 1.59:1 on the 5 speed. Additionally the 5 speed is stronger and the syncro's last longer. They don't suffer from the 2nd and 3rd gear syncro problems and the entire shift linkage doesn't suck a$$ like the 4's. It's also easier to cruise at 25 MPH in 3rd. The 4's are either lugging in 3 or revving out in 2. They are also lighter and shorter. Then there's the stronger clutch options..... GD