GeneralDisorder

Yes - automatic's were made so it would be either an Automatic push-button 4WD, or a 4 speed D/R. It will have the EA81. If it's an auto it will have hydro lifters as an added bonus. GD

As could I, but this conversation involves Subaru's. Not Corvettes, not Jeep's, and not anything else. I've owned many things besides Subaru's and will again. I've wheeled everything I could get my hands on in the military arsenal as well as a fair share of the civilian machines out there. I don't bring that here - it's not what this forum is about. For the record though - I wouldn't own a Vette because I'm not over 50. And I wouldn't own a Jeep precisely because it's no fun for me - I take no joy in buying. I enjoy the building and the engineering. I care not for things that can be bought and bolted-on because they have no value to me. There is no art in it. There is no skill there. No challenge at all. Flinging mud is no challenge for the smallest mind if he has a large enough wallet - lay down the cash and mash on the skinny pedal.... "big deal" I say. I will take the lifted Subaru even if it's inferior - if it fails I have no one to blame but myself and I simply redesign it for the next time around. Think of it as the difference between buying new kitchen cabinets and making them in your own garage. Etc. It's a fundamental way of living that we differ on. That's ok though - it takes all kinds. GD

With everyone starving for work these days.... yeah that's about right. Just having a key cut by code is like $25 now. I had new keys made for my hatch ignition from the code on the passenger door lock (if he needs to code that's where it's at BTW) and it was like $33 for three keys - one code cut and two copy's. This is why I always grab lock-set's from the junk yard when they have a key in the ignition. It's cheaper and faster to change all the locks on the car than it is to have them repaired. But in many parts of the country that's your only real option. They aren't difficult lock mechanisms. On my 91 legacy some previous owner had forced the lock and actually broke part of it internally. I got another lock cylinder from the junk yard and transfered the tumbler pins and springs from the broken cylinder to the new one and fixed the lock myself. The parts are small but they are no different than any other mechanical device. I save a pile of money and kept my car keyed the same thoughout. GD

I think that's definetely a possibility. The faster you can flow air over the compressor wheel the faster the turbo will spin up. Larger diameter pipes from the turbo-back allow better flow. In a turbocharged application the goal is to get rid of exhaust as quickly as possible. Any tuning of the exhaust has got to be done before the turbo - anything after just needs to be large and free-flowing. The 3" catless turbo-back system on my SS makes for smooth power with the stock turbo. It spools very easily at 1500 to 2000 RPM and makes for smooth power all the way through the driving RPM range. It's not the same engine, but the turbo size relative to the engine size is very similar and they were designed with similar goals of low RPM spooling and smooth driving characteristics. They both boost at about 8 lbs stock. GD

If it only took two quarts you should be fine. Your problems are almost certainly unrelated to the oil except possibly as noted you may have inadvertantly pulled a vacuum line loose. Spray around with carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks. If the engine pitch changes investigate the area you were spraying for broken/cracked/disconnected lines. GD

Hhhmmm - not likely. $1500 for an *excelent* example isn't too bad. Although I would rather it be $1500 for an excelent GL. Loyale's just feel like an after-thought being made from leftover parts to eliminate stockpiles from the late 80's and clear out warehouses for the EJ's. I paid less than that ($1000) for my last 94 Legacy and it only had 133k on it. I'm sure you just haven't experienced the EJ's yet to understand what we are talking about. The EA82 is a half-baked first try at the Legacy, and doesn't really stand up next to the shining example of spartan, utilitarian reliability that the EA81 embodies either. Everything I could want can be found for basically the same amount of money in either an EJ or an EA81 so that relegates the EA82's to being parts. I drive a first-gen EJ daily because it's super reliable, refined, sporty ('91 SS), and fits a DIN sized stereo without modification. I drive a lifted EA81 as my toy because it's basic, simple (no t-belts), and light. Plus the hatch body is the ultimate in Subaru wheelbase for the off-road. I have a Brat for restoration because it's rare and my sweat equity will actually be worth something someday. Plus I can haul a bit in it, and it gets amazing mileage with the SPFI. Tell me where an EA82 fits in my world? I understand the tendancy to defend your personal choices, but I assure you that as your Subaru experiences grow you will end up at the same place as the rest of the pack. Unless, like Andy, you really like the ugly duckling. Which is fine too - just add an EJ22 to it like he and others that suffer from his affliction have done to keep their sanity and hair. GD

Then cut the stubs off with a die grinder so you have better access to work in there. A sharp drill bit and some lube will cut through the heads. Just make sure you center punch them REALLY close to center. You may have to sharpen your drill bit a few times but you will prevail if you work smart. GD

Easiest just to find another open diff. They are extremely plentiful. Otherwise you will have to punch and drill the rest of the head off and the stub should slip over the broken bolt shaft. Then you can deal with getting the bolt out once the stub is off. GD

Absolutely - since the timing belt runs both the cams and the ignition. Redo the belts, then reset the distributor. GD

They were standard on many 4WD GL's from '80 to '82. They were officially called "passing lamps" in 80/81, and then "center lamps" in '82. They are not at all any more rare than an '80 to '82 4WD GL. I have two of the 80/81 lamps in my garage and one of the '82 style..... and I only hit the yards about once a month. GD

I would say the timing could be off a tooth. It will still run, just won't have any power. All the air bled from the cooling system? GD

According to the Subaru literature the factory dual carb engines were 108 HP. These still were not the dual-port heads though - just better flowing. And it takes more than the heads because as mentioned the valves are reversed so you need the cam or a custom one to match. Subaru also made a variation which I have not seen outside of race/rally prepped vehicles that surely must have put down more than the 108 of the production model. It had carbs mounted to each head rather than to a manifold. I would guess that if it were anything like the RAM engines it was probably putting down closer to 130 to 140 HP. Perhaps even more considering that the Subaru engineers got 120 HP out of the 1.0 liter justy engine for bonneville. GD

I wouldn't pay that much because I know the failings of the EA82's and I know that given similar maintenance history the EJ22 with 150k on it is likely to last longer than an EA82 with 50k on it. Plus I don't care so much about mileage as I do about where the mileage took place (city or freeway), the maintenance history, and the condition. A 100k mile Legacy will be nicer, drive better, and just generally out perform a 0 mile Loyale any day of the week. The differences are largely in the design not in the mileage or age. Legacy's age better and you could get a supreme example with low mileage for $3700. Unfortunately the EA82's are, in my opinion, the low point of Subaru's offerings from 1970 to 2000. They are supremely ugly, heavy, under powered, and other than the 5 speed D/R and the SPFI, the drive trains are nothing to write home about. The Loyale's, not being offered with the D/R, and coming with generally fewer features than the older GL's are the low point of the EA82 line. The EA82's aren't all bad, and I would take one over most other brands and models in a pinch, but when you have owned many examples of everything Subaru has made before and since.... the EA82 is put into a different perspective. It's the reason there are many seasoned members here that own Gen 1's. Gen 2's, and EJ's but don't have a single EA82 save for hulks they have ripped the tranny's and SPFI out of. GD

You remove the entire aluminium peice that holds the cylinder and the switch by removing the 4 bolts that bolt the assembly to the column from the back. Use a pair of needle-nose vice-grips to break them loose and then work them out with needle-nose pliers. It's pretty simple really. The cylinder can be rebuilt by any good locksmith. They are simple and if your smith knows his work he can modify the lock to use the first tumbler pin as the key retainer instead of the original retainer that always breaks and allows the key to be removed in any posistion. GD

There are two sensors - one for the gauge and another for the ECU. They are *probably* the same physical unit, but with two outputs for two seperate circuits. Thus the two-spade terminal connection I mentioned earlier. The ECU side can fail and leave the gauge side working - in fact that's usually the case in my experience. GD

It could be that the coolant temp sensor is telling the ECU that the engine is cold. Thus the code and the rich mixture. No amount of cleaning will fix the ECU telling the carb to run rich. Fix the codes first then worry about cleaning and adjusting it. Otherwise you can't tell what good your cleaning and adjusting does. If your run part alcohol you will lower your HC numbers. Denatured Alcohol is available at most home improvement places. It runs hot though so don't go over 1/3 alcohol to gasoline to keep it safe. GD

Your crank circuit up to the starter solenoid wire from the switch is not passing enough current to fully pull-in the starter contacts. You need to install a relay between the battery positive lead to the starter and the solenoid spade terminal using the original ignition switch lead to pull in the relay coil. This will fix your problem and prevent the ignition system from suffering further damage due to the repeated starting attempts overheating the small gauge wiring and harness plugs. This happens on many makes and models when they get old. Poor battery/cable maintenance or a burned set of starter solenoid contacts causes intermittent starting and the repeated attempts by turning the key overheat the wiring and break down the contacts in the ignition switch. Adding the relay is an inexpensive alternative to replacing the ignition switch and the entire harness. And your mechanic is a worthless hack. If he can't use a DMM enough to figure out what the problem with a simple un-fused crank circuit is then he has no business touching anything more advanced than a spear and a loin-cloth let alone your car. GD

The idle-up solenoid is only used for air conditioning, and is entirely mechanical on these carbs. It cannot set a code. Your hard starting is likely a broken choke spring. The end of the bi-metal spring inside the choke heater housing wears through and falls off leaving the choke butterfly wide open all the time. Someone probably turned the idle speed up a bit due to vacuum leaks or worn throttle shafts making it idle rough or die at the proper 700 RPM speed. You have a classic worn-out feedback carb setup. The carb needs to be completely rebuilt and the throttle shafts rebushed, then you are going to have a hell of a time with the feedback system. Some of the common failure items in the EA82 feedback's are insanely expensive. You'll spend more keeping that system running than the car cost or is worth. Being in CA, you are limited in your options as you can't install a Weber. You could convert to the Single Point Fuel Injection (SPFI), but I don't know what your level of mechanical/electrical knowledge is so that might not be for you. Given where you live and what you have brought home I don't envy your plight. My advice is that you get out from under that money pit of a fuel system and either instal the SPFI, or if your skills aren't ready for that challenge, get into a nice 90 to 94 Legacy with the EJ22. They are dead reliable. Yes - and you'll want to get the seal on the transmission side of the cable from the dealership. You can, but in the EA82's you have to rewire the fuel pump relay as it is controlled by the ECU. The car will run like poo and get mileage in the high teens to low 20's without the computer due to the jetting. If you are so inclined the carb is the same as the non-feedback carbs and can be rejetted to their specifications and will run fine without the ECU that way. This would involve rebuilding the carb which is likely needed anyway.... but it would be illegal in CA so you would have to register in NV or OR probably. GD

You wouldn't experience any oil in the cabin. The speedo head inside the cluster is where the oil has gone. The parts inside are very small, very old, and very plastic. To clean it would require MORE work than replacing the whole cluster as either way you will have to remove it. The dash itself will stay - only the gauge cluster would be removed and replaced. There's no harm in trying I guess but you are going to have to disassemble the cluster to pull the speedo head out, and the head unit itself is not an easy thing to dismantle. Further you are likely to damage it with anything strong enough to wash away the gear oil. Then after you are done you'll have to install it and see if it even works. Replacement of the cable and seal in the tranny is obviously required as there is no way to clean the cable (it's dry-lubrication has been comprimised), and you don't want this to happen again. GD

Rip the computer out and rewire the fuel pump relay . There are a set of connectors under the dash near the computer that allow you to put the computer into read-mode, etc. But it's not neccesary as the feedback ECU's don't store codes after they are shut down. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes if you want to make sure. But seriously - there's no fix for the EA82 feedback system but to rip the carb off and throw it in the nearest lake. GD

From your other post about the codes you are getting I can see you have a feedback computer controlled carb system. Trust me - rip it off and install a Weber. It's the only way to fix it. Search for the posts I've made in the past on feedback systems as I don't want to bother covering it again. GD

22 is related to your broken speedometer (the sensor is inside the speedo head). The seal in the tranny side has gone out and the speedometer is sucking gear oil through the drive cable sheath and into the dash. It's dead - once they suck oil like that they are toast. Best option is to replace the seal, cable, and gauge cluster with a used set from the junk yard. 24 indicates you need to replace the CTS for the feedback computer. It's on the manifold somewhere - should be a two-spade sensor threaded into the manifold coolant jacket. You will need one for a feedback carb model. 73 is a generic code for the ignition system. It's probably nothing - just clear the codes and see if it comes back first. GD

I agree that you can get them to that level for our climate. Out here I have been able to tune them as you say. My hatch hasn't dieseled once since I installed the Weber and my tuning was done with a wide band O2 sensor. But I hesitate to claim that this is possible everywhere. Elevation, temperature, and humidity have a large effect on mixture and timing settings with respect to engines that do not have computer compensation. I also point to the stock equipment as evidence that Fuji engineers recognized this potential and neatly avoided it by using the cut solenoid. Also, certain states of tune (as may be required to pass emissions testing in some locales), WILL diesel due to the lean nature of such settings. The solenoid can eliminate it in these cases as well. GD

Ok - I found the thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=739865&postcount=37 Specifically, after having a heck of a time with it, he disassembled the tranny and found: So I guess that settles it. GD

There was a discussion about this a while ago - I believe the solution after much cursing was to loosen the bolts that hold the case halves together. GD