GeneralDisorder

33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor will do it. If you want the thing to function then any 12 volt solenoid valve will work. Or you can just plumb the two lines together. All it does is purge the vapor from the charcoal canistor - you can yank the canistor and vent your gas tank to the atmosphere. Likely your 20 year old activated charcoal canistor is junk anyway and non-functional as they are intended to be replaced about every few years. Disabling the system with a resistor is both effective and economical considering the cost to make the system function. Bypassing it with a resistor in no way affects how the engine runs. GD

You have ignition or compression problems. When the idle HC's are over 1000 PPM like your's are it's a sure sign that you have an idle "miss" - when the ignition fails to ignite the charge in the cylinder the entire amount of raw unburned fuel is expelled into the exhaust. This is supported by your observation of a miss every three or four seconds and an unstable idle. You need to find the source of your miss. Until you fix that you don't have a hope of passing. This could be a weak spark, low compression, or a severely out of adjustment idle mixture. It could also be as simple as a vacuum leak - spray around with carb cleaner - the idle will change when you find the leak. GD

It's really quite simple Brian: The large white wire and the smaller white wire both go to the fusible links - otherwise known as the "main junction". The large wire is the alternator output, and the smaller one is the sense wire used by the alternator to adjust the voltage output at the main junction. The last wire (white/red) is primarily the feild excitation source, but also functions as a sort of malfunction indicator as the 12v supply is routed through the charge indicator lamp. When the alternator is producing no power the feild windings act as a ground and power flows through the lamp. When the alt is functioning there is potential on both sides of the lamp - if the output drops to lower than battery voltage the charge indicator will again illuminate. Incidentally, the feild excitation wire is not needed. The alternator will self-excite once it reaches a fast enough speed. But it does sound like you have some serious rewireing to do in order to make it work as stock. GD

Coating the cork gasket in RTV works well. Prevents the cork from absorbing oil and being cooked. GD

There's some sources that claim 74 HP for the hydro lifter engines vs. the 73 HP of the solid's but there's other sources that discount it. The short answer is *no* for the US market. Other markets had variations on the EA81 that produced as much as 108 HP (JDM dual-carb RX engine). The differences in the RX engine was largely in the head castings, valve size and placement, cam, and the compression ratio (pistons). Unless you count the EA81 Turbo's made in '83 and '84. Those had 95 HP. If you want big power from an EA81 you are pretty much stuck doing it yourself. GD

Too bad I haven't been online - could have fixed that in place and drove it out. You should replace the other ball joint as well - it's probably worn out anyway and gives you a good excuse to check everything on the other side. For parts around here it's tough to beat Discount Import Parts in Milwaukie or Beaverton. Their prices are usually the lowest and they carry high quality parts - often OEM for our cars. GD

Parts availiblilty might make you rethink using it as a daily driver. The pre-1980 Subaru's are getting near impossible to find parts for - the dealer doesn't even carry the head gaskets for the EA71 engines anymore. Besides that the 4WD is high-range only and can't be converted to a dual-range transmission without also upgrading to the newer engine due to major differences in the bell-housings. Frankly they are small (really small), poorly appointed, 63 HP, and no low-range.... nothing to offer unless you are a collector or enjoy the search for parts like windsheilds and gaskets. Your windsheild can still be found - but the gaskets can't. There was a group-buy on them in the historic forum last I checked but without a new gasket you'll have to have a shop glue it in and it will look like crap. Consider a Legacy or even an EA81 car for a daily instead. The Historic stuff is better left to those who can restore them at their liesure. You can restore, or you can drive, but you can't do both. Take it from someone that has 2 restoration projects currently and three more drivers. There's a reason us old-school Subaru fans end up with a whole fleet of the things. GD

Junkyards are your friends. And to answer your question - yes, in 5 years time we expect parts to be more difficult to find than now. The 70's Subaru's are already seeing this as Subaru of America is out of virtually everything for that vintage. It is doubtful that anyone will pick up the manufacture of these parts in the future. There will likely be a small aftermarket in Brat specific parts as Brat's are collectible. Other than that there will be nothing. The saving grace for the 80's Subaru's is that you can retain the body and with minor (or somtimes major) fabrication you can use legacy components. I fully expect at some point I will have to forgo the EA series engines and go with the EJ22's for powering my EA series bodies. Basically, everything will have to be custom. Which some of us are prepared to do. But if you don't have the skills or the time it really isn't viable to drive them past 30 years. Your muffler example is an excelent one - there was no need to buy a direct replacement. Dozens of aftermarket mufflers will fit easily. All it takes is a little welding - exhaust shops will do it for a reasonable fee. Is it cheaper than a direct-fit? No - but that's the cost of owning a collectible vehicle and it's exactly this collectibility that will drive what little aftermarket we will have in the future as collectors with the capitol and the desire will have the jigs and molds created for these parts. The fact that they are becoming desireable and somewhat expensive will be the force that brings parts back into limited production. So for some parts it will simply be a waiting game. GD

An EA82 set will work fine. The lengths should be largely the same. As for your coil wire - I sugest you relocate the coil. I put the SPFI coil on the drivers side where it's located on the EA82's as that allows you to use the EA82 coil wire. GD

The NGK wire sets are more than sufficient for a stock ignition. GD

It's just messy and awkward - everything falls down on you, and putting the tank back in is actually worse than removing it. GD

Or you can replace the solenoid with a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor. Plug the vac lines or plumb the EGR to receive vacuum at all times. Your choice. This way you never worry about the solenoid failing again. You can also do the same thing with the Purge solenoid. Neither are needed for proper operation of the SPFI. GD

It's the worst job I've ever had to do on a Subaru. That give you an idea? GD

You have to split the transaxle case - just like all other Subaru transaxles. It is not simple and the 4 speed's require a special socket as mentioned above to remove the extension housing drive gear. I don't reccomend you attempt the job unless you have an FSM and the ability to fab custom tools and equipment as most of the special tools are no longer availible and the procedures for setting the front R&P are obscure and complex besides being difficult without the special tools. The assembly procedures are a small book unto themselves in the FSM. GD

So you are saying it's not going into "Four Wheel Drive"? The "FWD" acronym is used to represent "Front Wheel Drive". "4WD" is what his dash should indicate when the button is pressed. If it's not functioning then it's likely a vacuum hose problem as the system is vacuum operated. Look for any hoses disconnected around the firewall where the click is originating and follow the hoses back to the vacuum accumulator and the manifold. Check for damaged hoses. GD

Yes - it only works on AT's. GD

No - the block is bypassed for the highest setting. Sounds like the relay or the switch if you have no power at the fuse. GD

You would need multiple carbs for almost anything to work. A co-worker has a harley carb on his Samuri but that's about the largest engine (1.3 liter) that it would support. Plus it's a variable venturi carb and has no provision for vacuum advance. Large Mikuni's could work but you would need like 4 of the 40mm style. Bike engines are a LOT smaller than even an EA81 so it difficult to fit and tune off the shelf bike carbs for automotive applications. Besides - SPFI is much better. GD

Pull the #1 plug and with the piston at BDC thread about 10 feet of 1/4" nylon rope into the cylinder. Use a 1/2" breaker bar and socket to remove the bolt - they are not left-hand thread - turn it out just like any other bolt. GD

Only really two things that will affect NOx emissions - lean mixture, or malfunctioning EGR. The EGR should open around 1/16" to 1/8" under about 6 inHg of vacuum for most vehicles. I would test it, check for proper operation, and then probably bypass the EGR control solenoid to take the ECU out of the equation durring the next test. GD

If it runs fine now then leave it the way it is. There is no such thing as an "electronic" choke. It's an electric choke, and eventually the one on your Hitachi will die (the hook on the end of the bi-metal spring wears through and breaks off). If you are concerned about then put a Weber on it - for cold temps you will have to properly connect the hot air riser to prevent carb iceing but the Weber's work fine in the cold when properly jetted and tuned. As for the post count thing - I just don't want to argue with the newcomers. It's not worth my time. GD

While I agree in principle with what you are trying to say, carbs can and will do what he wants. A brand new Weber is both simpler to install and easier for a non-technical person to troubleshoot. That is completely wrong. The EA81 is an excellent design - much better than the EA82. Plus the EA81 can be retro-fit with the SPFI system making it even better. The EA81 is lighter, and the Hatch body is the unchallenged champion of the Subaru off-road world. Have a read through my SPFI conversion site: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html If you want to argue with me - go ahead - but take a look at my post count before you do. GD

That is not at all true. You can either turn the carb around backwards (the adapter plate is symmetrical), or you can use the Hitachi plastic spacer under the weber adapter and make a dent in the side of the PS reservoir with a ball-peen hammer (it's just a fluid reservoir, it doesn't hurt a thing). Of the two I prefer peening the reservoir as it's cleaner. GD

You don't. LSD's only come on performance models and not all of them. Outback's are not, so it wouldn't have come with one stock. GD

Almost surely a stupid error on the production line or sabotage by a disgruntled line worker. These things happen - and they happen with all brands, makes, and models. You should have fought harder for a replacement vehicle. If it were me I would have called the local news station. GD