GeneralDisorder

I can get it later tonight for you. Although it's probably cheaper to just use appropriately sized common fuel line - you can get it by the foot nearly anywhere. Or you could get some fancy silicone tubing and use that - the nice thing about the silicone is that it's available in metric sizes online and it will bend and conform to any shape you could want. It's also more heat resistance than rubber hose. GD

If she is responsible it's an excelent, fun, easy to work on car (as all Subaru's are). If she isn't.... well the car is WAY too fast for someone that isn't responisible with the power. 230 odd HP, AWD..... you get the idea. It's a monster and it's surprising that Subaru can build them for as inexpensively as they do considering the quality of their products. Yes - it's basically a detuned rally car. The real machines have around 300 HP and the accesories to handle it. Ford made a good product at one time and I would love to buy american if only the products were decent. Unfortunately the labor unions, american health care, and the need to compete with japanese brands has driven the quality down. Plus I absolutely hate transverse anything. Which leaves me with few choices. GD

Turn the engine over by hand while you shove on it. Sometimes that will get them in. GD

Oil pan is easy - the rear bolts are accesible with a long phillips screwdriver through holes in the cross-member. Tightening them is no good - you need to replace the gasket. OEM only, and coat both sides in a layer of RTV an allow to fully cure. This will prevent the gasket from absorbing oil and failing like the original did. Aftermarket gaskets are cheap cork and the pan bolts will litereally cut them in half if you try to tighten them to spec. GD

1. Pull out the EA82T and put in an EA81 or better an EJ22E. The EA82T you have will be a headache in the mud..... or on the street. It's just a headache no matter how you cut it. It's kind of a POS as Subaru engines go. Often cursed at - throw it in a dark corner of your closet and forget about it. 2. Replace transmission with 5 speed D/R and rear 3.9 diff to match in order to turn larger tires. Your stock 3.7 ratio and push-button 4WD will not do the job as you have no low gearing. 3. Lift of your choosing. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6+ inches. 10-12 inches + transfer case, home built, bought, whatever. It's all been done. Searches are your best bet for lift info as there are too many designs to list. 4. Redrill 15" 6x5.5" chevy/toyota rims to 4x140mm and put on some TSL Swampers in 27, 28, or 29 inches (or more if you go the BIG lift route). 5. Add some goo-gaw's like bumpers, racks, etc. 6. Play. Basically if the body is really nice and you want to lift it - you'll have to gut the mechanicals and start with stuff that will perform with a lift and tires and in the hard driving conditions off-road. I wouldn't trust an EA82T in the mud much farther than I could throw one. Bad juju. GD

It doesn't need to be totally accurate. Remember the splined end of the shaft is a slip joint. Within 1/2" (err on the short side) will do fine. Don't measure the lengths of the shafts - measure the distance from the end of the tranny to the diff. The two-peice does not travel in a straight line so you can't compare just the drivelines side-by-side. Also - the carrier bearing mount does not support anything but the weight of the shaft itself. It's angle and such are not critical as the center bearing is a CV joint. On my Brat I used a two-peice and just welded a couple tabs to the floor for the carrier mount. No problems here. The two peice is superior in almost every respect perfomance wise. Better clearance, less vibration. There are plenty of used one's to be had. I see no reason to convert to a single peice. GD

They can't be the same as the turbo's use a knock control system for ignition timing, and the plain MPFI's do not. Although very early turbo systems (85/86) might share a very similar ECU to the 85 2WD GL MPFI as I think the knock control system is not part of the ECU on the early turbo's. GD

Think of a normal 2 ton shop jack but with a large rectangular saddle that has the ability to tilt and has ratchet straps to hold to tranny to it. In fact for some nicer shop jacks you can buy transmission saddles that replace the normal small, round saddle that most have. Although actual transmission jacks have a different pump handle that can swing 90 or 180 degrees and be used while you are under the vehicle. I've used such a beast before. They are definitely nice to have. GD

It will be a high-end 2WD GL of some sort - possibly a GL-10. It has a log-style manifold, and a metal "Subaru MPFI" intake casting. Just like this one (no - I don't own it - I almost did though): GD

Also - leave the pressure plate bolts loose enough to slide the disc around by hand but tight enough to hold it in the center. Mate the tranny and then tighten the PP bolts through the starter hole. Beleive me - it's better this way. Don't need an alignment tool, and you will avoid problems with hitting the disc and the pilot bearing sqaure if you do it this way. The cheap plastic alignment tools often are not accurate enough for Subaru's system. GD

Pull off the fender, support the door with a jack and pull the hinges off the body. Then remove the door panel and fiddle with the latch mechanism. You can probably get it to come loose if you manually operate the latch. GD

To go back in with the tranny, I have devised a plan of action over the years that works well for me. 1. Get the car HIGH. As high as you can without resorting to hot-boxing it (ok - sorry for the pot joke - I couldn't help it). But as high as you can - high like giraffe snatch. 2. Slide the tranny under the car. 3. Loop a rope through the shifter hole and around the tail-shaft of the tranny. 4. Use your engine hoist to lift the front of the tranny and the rope to lift the rear. Slam the rope in the drivers door to keep the thing in the air. 5. This is the ugly part - slide under the tranny and mate it to the engine. Use your legs - you can only do this easily if the car is HIGH. Smoke it out - do what you have to. GD

Those are just alignment pins. Enough of the hole looks to be there to serve the puposes of alignment. They do nothing once the bolts are tightened down. GD

Excelent - the gap should be 1.1mm or .044". Most people find the plugs need to be replaced about ever year as well as the wires. The automatic's and the turbo's use a hotter coil and will burn through plugs and wires quickly. The NA manual's don't seem to have nearly the trouble but the hotter spark is neccesary at least for the turbo charged versions. Not sure why the Auto's got the hot coil like the turbo. Seems wasteful to me. GD

You have NO idea. I don't know how big you are, but I'm 6' 2", 225 lbs and I have a hard time lifting the EA transmissions into place. I have done it, and I have also dropped them on my chest and brother they ARE heavy. More so than a FWD anyway. And the protrusions on them are punishingly sharp to the rib cage I sugest before you go any further, that you put the tranny back in, and pull the engine forward. You don't have to remove it from the car. Just remove the radiator, and pull the engine up and forward till it slides off the tranny then set it forward so you can get to the clutch. It's actually quite easy and the engine (with all fluids) weighs about as much as the tranny. The EA81 complete with all fluids and accesories is about 180 lbs. Renting or buying an engine hoist is the best investment for this job. My engine hoist is a 4 ton job from Harbor Frieght and it's saved me hours of frustration. Was like $199 on sale. GD

Test the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. It's probably just the sending unit or cluster. They aren't real accurate or particularly reliable. No need for high-test - regular 87 will be fine. Add a bottle of techron and a bottle of seafoam to the full tank. The seafoam will take care of any water in there and the techron is good for preventing deposits if there is any old gas left in the thing. GD

ECU, Wireing harness, turbo engine cross-member, radiator and turbo water tank + all lines, complete exhaust system, boost control components from passsenger strut tower, fuel pump, etc. There is probably more but I know all that stuff is different. It's been done, but it best to have an entire turbo donor car (be it WRX, or whatever). It always easier to swap a different turbo engine into a chassis that was always turbo from day one than it is to swap from NA to turbo. You might consider just swapping to the phase III 2.5. It's the same stock power as the EJ22T - just doesn't have the overhead for modifications that the turbo's do. GD

Not for the EA81. Unlike the EA82's they are cork like the oil pan, and there are only two grommets per side. IIRC the valve cover gaskets are about $6 each. GD

Oil in the filter housing comes from the PCV system. Sounds like it starved for air. Clean all the PCV lines, replace the PCV valve and filter and the air filter, and make sure the ports on the valve covers are not blocked internally. GD

What wires/plugs did you use? OEM or NGK are the only ones that are reccomended. Others cause problems - especially Bosch plugs. Subaru's just don't like them. GD

Comp. at 150 sound good. Your valve timing is fine. Sounds like your ignition timing is out of whack to me. The air coming back out the carb is a good indication and the fact that it won't even run on starting fluid. You have comp, you have air, and you have fuel (starting fluid). The only thing that remains is ignition (at the proper time). You either have weak spark, or it's not happening at the right time. Put the #1 cylinder at TDC with both valves closed (compression stroke). Use a drinking straw through the plug hole to feel the piston travel and when you feel air blowing past your finger over the hole you are one the comp. stroke. Adjust the flywheel so the mark is pointing at 8 degrees BTDC (rotate counter-clockwise from TDC). With the flywheel at 8 degrees BTDC install the distributor with the rotor pointing at whichever plug tower you want to be #1. Install the cap and install the wires counter-clockwise starting with the one you chose in the order 1,3,2,4 That's all it takes. GD

In the case of Subaru's specifically, their parts are often just repackaged OEM parts. I have personally opened a Beck-Arnley EA81 engine mount box to find the mount still inside the Subaru OEM plastic bag. Seems to have been an oversight durring the "repackageing" process because the second one in the pair I bought had no such baggie. So it seems that something is going on in the wholesale world with B/A buying bulk components from SOA or something. At any rate they are good components and are often priced lower than wholesale from the dealer so I can't complain. GD

If you buy a water pump from the dealer they give you a nice gasket for it - it's paper but it has a pressure sensitive glue on it that seals up very nicely and without any mess. I used one on my hatch about 8 months ago and I was impressed with the quality of the OEM stuff. I can't hardly justify buying aftermarket anymore. The quality just sucks. GD

I was not impressed with the Fel-Pro gaskets *other* than the head gaskets themselves. All the rest I would order from the dealership - you'll get them faster. RTV on the oil pan gasket as well, and I have used carefully applied RTV in lieu of the water pump gasket many times without any troubles. GD

Well no - you use a lighter weight oil so it flows better in low temps. If it's super duper cold outside and the engine has trouble maintaining operating temps then you have to go with a lighter weight oil to compensate. Oh - by 20w I mean SAE 20 weight, not 20 Winter. Sorry about the confusion. Sorry - forgot my multi-viscosity jargon for a second there. Most of the oil I work with is just SAE grade, not multi-visco' stuff. GD