GeneralDisorder

Well - the first question I have to ask is what you want to do with it? I mean specifics. All air tools have different requirements. An impact will use very little air in comparison to a drill, die grinder or air-board. You can use the same compressor for both your air tools and for painting. Painting is going to require some additional accesories that air tools will not. For a paint system you will *want* some form of vapor seperator, and you will *NEED* a filter and a regulator. Many air tools will also require a regulator. Now vapor seperation can be as simple, or as horrifically complex as you can imagine . I can be nothing more than an automatic drain on a large receiver tank, or it can be a refrigerated or dessicant air drier. What is a-lot for you? You say you don't want it comming on a lot.... that is largely dependant on how big of a receiver you use. How long it stays on once it starts is dependant on the size of the air-end and how fast you run it. How much space do you have to work with? Do you want something that is portable, semi-portable, or "oh my god I hope I never have to move that sucker again!"? I'll give you some ideas of what *I* like. Bear in mind I do get this stuff for nearly free so it's just to give you an idea of what is *nice* to have, not neccesarily what the minimum you want for yourself would be. Also I am partial to the brands I work with most... I also happen to beleive them to be of superior quality in most respects... and they are made right here in the US. That said.... I personally (and ALL my co-workers) swear by the Quincy QR series recip (piston) compressors. They are full-industrial machines that can be handed down to your children. I have worked on fully functioning QR's from the 1940's. They can be rebuilt and maintained indefinately unless they are seriously abused (which actually happens a lot because they are generally so reliable that people forget about maintenance). For my garage machine I have a vertical 80 gallon tank with a QR-325 run with a single-phase, 5 HP motor. It lopes along at 850 RPM and puts out a solid 22 CFM at 150 psi.... and would do it 24/7 if I wanted it to. It's a bruiser of a machine though. Just the air-end weighs about 250 lbs. Cast iron and all that. The drive motor and the tank make it a 600 lb machine... or more. To move it I have to have a friend help me dissasemble it . Anyway - I'm not sugesting you buy one of these, but it's a high-water mark to shoot for. MANY air tools require 10 CFM, and a small sand blast cabinet would easily consume all the air I can make with my 325. The vertical tank is nice from a space premium standpoint and the height would keep children's fingers away from harmful moving parts and hot metal. If I were buying a machine outright I think the Quincy QT series are priced right for the competitive consumer market. I would look at a vertical tank mounted QT-5 or QT-7.5 with either a 60 gallon or an 80 gallon tank. The QT's differ from the QR's in their valve system and their lubrication systems. Where the QR's use an oil pump and automotive style filter the QT's use a simple splash lubrication, and where the QR's use an industrial cast-iron disc valve the QT's use a reed valve system. The reed valves in the QT's don't last as long and when they go it's generally cheaper to just buy a new air-end. But the packages are nice and the quality is fine for a home shop. Don't cheap out on your filtration - getting replacement elements is difficult if you but cheap units. Wilkerson is my preference. Anyway - give me more info and I'll narrow your options. GD

Yeah - that would be the '84+ style pull-off. It's basically the same just has two pots instead of a single pot with two ports. GD

Further reading suggests I may want to check the Boost Control Solenoid. I just happen to have an extra and I think it's the low mileage one that came with the replacement engine. That's a simple drop-in and go so I'll check that tomorrow. GD

You may have to remove the EA81 head spacers on the exhaust ports to bolt up to the EA82 y-pipe. And you'll have to do all the mods I list required to fit the manifold to the EA81 and clear the distributor - turning the IAC over, etc. The lower radiator hose will be.... special. Don't know what you'll have to do but it shouldn't be hard to figure something out. And the pitching stopper may need modification/customization, ect. But pretty much that's it. Should just drop right in. GD

The SPFI will cycle the pump with the engine off if the test connectors are plugged together. Check the fuel pump relay. It will be with a set of 4 relays above the fuse box under the drivers side kick panel. GD

Cleaned the MAF tonight. Found some of the intake boot hose clamps loose. Didn't change much. The idle dropped a few hundred at first but after a drive it's back to normal. No CEL's still. The fluttering feels like it happens when the boost comes on strong. It loses power and starts missing and surging. Still have more to check but that's what I had time for tonight. So I think next I'll put a DMM on the TPS and the MAF. Anyone got the pinouts and specs for the turbo TPS and MAF? GD

That, and they run them almost flat angled. They are also longer which makes the angles shallower for any given rise in suspension. I've wheeled with my share of EA82's, and short of stuff like Scott has built (which frankly isn't an EA.... anything. You may as well call that completely custom...) the 81's do quite a bit better generally speaking. For one thing the EA81's have 2" higher ground clearance.... bone stock. Tune it up and you should be fine with some 27" tires. Gut the exhaust and put on a cone filter with a snorkel. Should be good enough to get you in trouble. GD

That is not streetable except in a very few places around the country. The local constabulary would have a field day with a rig like that. I agree it's capable but most of us don't have the ability to trailer our machine to/from the play. You can make anything with enough welding and cutting.... but for *mostly* stock bodies the EA81 hatch is king. GD

Lack of proper PCV routing is probably causing already poor valve stem seals to suck more oil than usual as you aren't actively pulling blow-by gasses from the crankcase as you should. Valve cover breather filters are NOT a substitute for a system to remove blow-by gasses. Before PCV valves we had the road draft tube system.... just venting the valve covers is not adequate. You see them on hot-rods..... but then those are the same folks that buy edelbrock carbs which are also an abomination.... don't emulate those guys. GD

The EA82 SPFI makes fully 17 more HP than the EA81. Weber or not. My Brat with an EA82 w/SPFI from a 93 Loyale is actually nicely quick. The weight difference of the EA82 body is what will/is kill you. That and the horrible approach/departure angles. If you want to do any serious off-roading you need the EA81 hatch body. For weight, A/D angles, and wheelbase. There is little of consequence that can be removed for much weight savings. Sadly the weight is in the unibody and the glass. There is very little you can do to the engine to make more power. It's already as high compression as you can get with the head quench design and redlines at 6k. To get any real amount of power you need more fuel and more air. Start with the cams, heads, and valves - that will get you air. More fuel can be accomplished a variety of ways. You'll need to run MegaSquirt or some other stand-alone FI package to deal with the modifications. It buys you nothing but a smelly engine bay.... but yes if you cap the lines you can remove it. No. I usually get rid of them. More trouble than they are worth on the older soobs. Your emissions will go up sharply of course. NOS, Turbo, etc. Sky's the limit till you blow the heads off. Most of that stuff requires a lot of skill and knowledge to do correctly and get even 1/2 the normal life span from the thing though. Expect to run through a couple short blocks at least if you go whole-hog. Beyond forced induction or oxidizers you are pretty well stuck with 90 HP I'm afraid - unless you want to design new heads for it.... but I'm thinking probably not. GD

Yank the tranny - there's a high likelyhood that so much damage has been done to it that it's just not going to be reasonable to dump extra money at fixing small things on it and hoping it doesn't fail again. The grinding noises are bad - if it were an axle the car would still likely move... just very slowely. Also your description of it moving a few feet after letting it sit doesn't fit with an axle failure - they are 100% mechanical and nothing you could do would change how they are operating. Find a reputable mechanic and a used tranny with a warrantee. You may also have engine issues - the engine should never die with an automatic as there is no physical connection between the engine and the transmission. Terrain and transmission mishaps cannot affect the way the engine runs under normal circumstances. GD

Don't sweat the timing belt cover. Run till the belt snaps and then put the covers on when you do the belt if you are so inclined. I generally leave the covers off personally. Road debris is no concern at all. GD

Old pumps can get jammed up - smack the pump with something. That's common of all centrifugal fuel pumps. Old gas and condensate can jam them up. GD

They are availible, but unless you have machining capabilities you won't have good luck installing them. The old ones have to be reemed out and if it's not done perfectly straight you'll have major issues. GD

Yeah - I think I will do that. I wish the kid knew what pump he installed. . Pretty sure it's the Walbro that everyone reccomends for these so it should be fine but I should be sure. Should have mentioned it's got a brand new turbo-back, 3" stainless system. No cats anywhere. Pretty sure that's not me issue Will do. GD

Yeah - the wires aren't new but the plugs are. I'll check it out but the idle is solid enough that I don't think ignition is my issue. I'll clean it on general principle. There's no oil in there - I've had all that apart recently. I do have MAF cleaner though so I might as well use it. Yeah - that I don't know about but I'll check for smooth operation with my MM. Yes - the EJ22T's were the 91 to 94 "sport sedan" (SS), and the 93/94 "Turbo Touring Wagon" (TTW). The wagons only came as automatics. Of the SS's the '91 is the monster - factory with the VLSD, oil cooler, etc. They cut some of the cool goodies after the first year. GD

*Fixed* - It was plugs and wires all along. See page 2 for details and pictures. This car sat for 4 years with a blown 22T, blown turbo, blown radiator, and blown heater core..... current engine is from a 93 or 94 touring wagon - should have around 110k on it. Bone stock - just getting the kinks worked out as I finally got it on the road last week. It's got a walbro fuel pump (don't know which model). Installed by the last owner while trying to troubleshoot a no start. Turned out to be the valve timing but his fuel pump install seems to be working. I had to fix the shoddy wiring job (wires twisted together and wrapped cheap e-tape) and replace some non-injection rated hose (almost killed me when it burst on the freeway )..... but otherwise it seems fine. Runs ok - idles decent at around 800. Good power for normal driving. I can feel the boost come on under 3/4 throttle or so. When I go full throttle I get some surging and fluttering - feels like it's going lean. It does this fairly consistently at full throttle. It feels like a rapid fluttering surge at lower speeds, and a power loss/slower surging at freeway speeds. I don't want to harm anything with a lean condition if it's got plugged up injectors so I've been easy on it... the gas smelled pretty nasty that was in it. It got a new fuel filter when the engine went in, and another new one after the first tank. Also threw in a bottle of techron. I have another complete manifold - I don't know if it's the original or the one from the replacement motor as I didn't do the initial engine install (it came to me half installed ). But I have a complete set of turbo injectors on the extra manifold... boxes of other duplicate parts as well. It's got no CEL after 75 miles of driving, and the CEL definitely works. I had to replace the knock sensor when I first got it running so if it was detecting a problem I'm confident it would tell me. Might be time to hookup my wideband huh? Thoughts? Things I can test? GD

My SPFI write up details how to convert an EA82 distributor to work on the EA81. It was designed for SPFI swaps, but the carbed disttributors are similar enough that the procedure should only be different in minor ways: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

It's NLGI grade 2 "extreme pressure" grease with Moly. Basically that's a fancy way of saying it's GP moly grease. The FSM calls for "Molytex #2 or equivelent"... which is an old Texaco trade name (before they merged with Chevron). Here's a pic of what I get at my local NAPA: (the packets are a rip - buy a tube for the same price). GD

'95 and up EJ22's are OBDII and are a bigger pain in the wiring department. '97 and later EJ22's are a redesign and have solid lifters and different heads that are single-port exhaust... there were other changes as well. The 90 to 94 is the most desirable from a swap standpoint. You are still better fixing the EA81. Your compression is quite good at 170. You will be down for an extended period of time doing an EJ swap (to do it right)...... it's a bad idea for you. Ah well - over 10k posts and still people don't listen GD

5 is not a code - it's a model designation. You need to run a complete D-Check on it - maybe you'll get codes. The SPFI is not always capable of telling you every detail so you may have to help it out a bit and do all the little stuff. Just pickup a used thermosensor from a yard. You can test them with an ohmeter and some boiling water. GD

You crazy? SPFI is far and away a better system. You would have to do a lot of rewireing and changing of the fuel system to do it. Not worth it to backtrack like that. GD

We routinely use the EA81 and EA82 radiators for the EJ22's. Just because the engine *can* make more power doesn't mean it is going to most of the time. The differences in power are largely a product of larger displacement and better valve/head designs. The cooling systems are quite similar and shouldn't be a problem. GD

They are all computer conrolled MPFI, so yes you would need all the wireing and the ECU. I would sugest you consider using the EJ22 and doing the Weber carb conversion using the Ford Escort distributor. Look for threads concerning this in the modifications forum. GD

Test your coil just for giggles. GD