GeneralDisorder

Why would you replace that if you have a Weber? Tire inflation? I would be checking the float level, and your air bleed's and idle jets as well as your mains. You very well may have to rejet - engine's aren't all the same and if the volumentric effeciency of your engine is lower than the carb is jetted for you will have to rejet and retune. GD

It is neccesary, for obvious reasons, to clean the insides of a diff being prepared for welding very well. I've welded three diffs, and each time I've cleaned the insides out with an evaporating degreaser and dried them very well so as not to start fires. I can tell you that for a stock height vehicle the R&P on the R160's is quite strong - so strong that I wouldn't worry about it unless it were making some serious noises. I can't see a short drive with seafoam hurting them much - especially since they almost never fail and most probably have 20 year old fluid in them. I recently changed the diff oil in my 83 hatch - it came out pretty dark so it was probably original. I just did it on general principle as it's likely been 25 years and 225k miles. I'll probably never change it again unless I weld it up - which I may do as I have an idea for a slightly different welding technique that I want to try. GD

If it's like mine was, you'll be left wondering what they were thinking (or not thinking) when they decided what goes into it. If it's old stock then you may run into it either being jetted wrong, or the float adjusted incorrectly. Weber has gone through some poor quality phases when their production went to Mexico a few years ago. They say it's all sorted out now, but I bought my kit in 2003 and I had to adjust the float myself. Besides that and the kit being a total rip-off the carb itself has been flawless - just put it on my 83 hatch a few days ago because I was sick of 23 MPG on the stock Hitachi. Please take a picture of the contents of your "kit" as I would be interested to see how it differs from mine. Litereally all mine had was the carb, the 3" filter, and the adaptor plate. And some pretty useless instructions. GD

Who did you get it through? Link? My experience has been with the official Redline kit. GD

Well - there's just no market for new SPFI TPS sensors. They almost never fail. No one makes them, no one stocks them, and frankly no one really ever sells them either. GD

You have a bad front main seal - the crank pulley is chucking it all over the engine bay. And the high oil pressure is either a bad sender or the gauge is mis-calibrated. Test it with a proper pressure guage (mechanical) and see what you really have. Might want to add a 3 gauge cluster of temp, oil pressure, and volts as the stock gauges aren't all that great 25 years later. GD

Junk yard. Lots of good one's to be had - they rarely fail. Although if it wasn't throwing a TPS code with numbers like that.... I'll lay odds it's either your testing method that's broken or your interpretation of the pins, etc. It likely wouldn't run at all with readings such as those and it would surely throw a code. GD

It's easy - you'll figure it out. Wait and ask questions when you start. In the meantime read some posts on installing. I don't like the kits - they don't include the linkage parts, and they come with the 3" filter - it is too large to fit under the hood of the EA81 without rubbing. You'll have to get a 1.5" filter element and the clips, and you'll have to make your own linkage bracket. I use the old linkage bracket but mount it to the carb stud on the passenger rear of the base - you have to bend it and tweak it but it works well. Thus the kits really aren't useful for the price. Although $350 isn't too bad. GD

It's a T-handle deal that obviously can't put a lot of torque down - no provision for a socket wrench either. If you have any resistance to turning them it will be from age and grime, not because they are tight per-se. SOA original part number 399780111... looks to be discontinued. It looks like this, but I don't know if the 4EAT version (499787000) would fit. You could call kent-moore and find out. They sell the the general public so if there is still a tool made you can get it through them. http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=499787000 GD

Why? Get a DFV - the Holly/Weber 5200 was used on many, many Fords and can be had for peanuts on ebay - brand new/rebuilt. It's a licensed copy of the Weber 32/36 DFV. You just have to tune the jetting and buy an adaptor plate. GD

I gave it a thought a while back - unfortunately my time isn't terribly cheap and there's a good 4 hours in a harness strip. I'm afraid the cost would make it unattractive to those who are likely to be interested in the SPFI swap. GD

'85 - it would be carbed. It may be a feedback carb with sensors, but it would have to be a California model if that's the case. Looks like you are close to me. Perhaps you can bring it by this weekend. PM me if you are interested. I'm in West Linn. GD

The problem with following that procedure is that it's intended for a bench assembly and you are supposed to be looking at the actual R&P gear teeth and using a special grease to see the gear teeth pattern. Also there is no way to check that the backlash is within spec with it fully assembled an in the car. So you can't actually verify that the procedure worked. Counting turns and marking both a start and end location with a punch is much better. Just put it back where you found it - that's all you can do. GD

Yeah - wireing is the biggest hurdle for most folk. People start doing the potty dance when I start talking wireing I need to rewrite and add to the wireing section - more pictures of the process of stripping a donor harness. People freak when they see 20 feet of wireing harness with 100 connectors come out of a Loyale. GD

It's not that bad, but it looks like it is till you read through it a few times and get your head around everything that needs to be done. The SPFI is actually quite simple - one injector, and just half a dozen sensors or so. A few fuses, some power supply wires, and a bit of wireing. It pretty much bolts together, and once you have an understanding of fuel injection in general as well as the factory service information at the bottom of my write up - it's no big deal. GD

If you couldn't keep the EA82T running, then you'll never succesfully swap an EJ in there - especially a japanese one that has no ECU, no wireing, and came from a RHD car.... Stop wasting your money kid - just buy an Impreza like the rest of the kids and go have fun with it and your friends. You'll be years swapping an EJ in there and you'll have a hacked together peice of crap when you are done that no one will touch. No joke - this is WAY more complicated than you think/know. GD

That's fine because this isn't about convincing you. It's about convincing all of them [sweeps arm wide - indicating a crowd]. Your opinions are formed - nothing I say will change them. GD

Did you look at my write-up? Link ^ up there. GD

I live in Oregon. Yes I live near a city, but BFE is not far. I agree when it comes to a lot of the newer cars. But the SPFI is primitive as injection goes. A very, very small box of spare parts and some know-how are all you need. Carbs are no different - you still need to carry spare parts regardless of the fuel system. And even if you have a carb, there are still just as many situations that will get you stranded. This supposed "random electronics failure" that everyone is scared of rarely materializes, and a short read through a few posts on here and elsewhere will give you a comprehensive list of those items that should always be on hand for spares. It boils down to being prepared. And with electronics as with many things that just means having a backup plan - be it a part, or a sat-phone, or a folded up ultra-light in the back of your wagon.... people without plans die. That's life. Making a plan for fuel injection is no harder than it is for anything else. It just takes some education and you aren't willing to get it. Thats fine with me - but don't give BS excuses about stuff being inferior just because you don't understand it. Let the man make his own decisions. If you have legitemate concerns about specific failures or components that you have experience with - then by all means express those concerns. Sweeping generalizations about the inferiority of fuel injection will get you flamed.... in case you haven't noticed . GD

And here's my conversion write-up: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

That's just silly. Injection has benefits beyond what carbs can do. It's both simpler and often more reliable - there are few moving parts, and most injection systems including the SPFI being discussed here can outlive a carb easily with usually no maintenance beyond some filters. The SPFI on my Brat for example came from a wrecked 91 Loyale with 254,000 miles on it. WRECKED - as in running fine. Show me a carb that can do that and still run like the day it rolled off the line. None can - mechanical parts wear out faster than electronic parts. Not to mention the SPFI's computer control allows it greater flexibility with respect to tuneing. That means more power, AND better mileage across all engine speeds. Zero fuel usage while coasting under closed throttle, etc. The ECU has hundreds of mapping points for both timing and fuel. Carb's have at most a couple (usually two or three jetting points) to work with and everything inbetween is interpolated. This whole argument over the years between carbs and fuel injection is vacuous - it's just another case of people not wanting to learn something new and finding some argument to justify their pig-headedness. I totally understand - you were the king of the world when carbs were the last word in fuel management. Now you have to learn something new and it feels shameful to learn it from someone half your age..... I get that. It's human nature. But to tell people carbs are better because they "work" just to feel better about the situation is pretty small minded. I'm here to tell you that fuel injection "works" too - damn well I might add. And in these times of soaring gas prices it's almost criminal not to sugest he consider the conversion - even a few extra MPG is worth the additional work as the parts are cheaper than a new Weber and plentiful to boot. GD

Legacy's are new generation - you should post it in that forum. GD

That probably won't change anything frankly. Don't change any lines unless you actually find a leak (spray around with carb cleaner till the engine changes pitch). Some of the lines have "orifices" in them so you have to be very careful about such changes. Look and disect each line you intend to replace. Most will not need replaceing. What you need is a factory service manual if you intend to effectively work on the feedback system. It's a computer controlled carb and there's a ton of troublshooting information that you'll need to do any proper diagnostics. Or just put on a non-feedback Hitachi, a Weber, or SPFI. Those are much better options in my opinion. GD

Fix it - Justy engines are easy to rebuild from what I hear. Probably the usual oil pump problem they always have went a bit too far on it. GD