GeneralDisorder

Your choke is not operating correctly, or the idle-up cam is not operating. They are non-trivially interconnected devices so I would start by removeing the choke spring/heater housing for a look. GD

You have to cut and box in the frame rails where the overhead cams are located to make it fit. It's a decent gain - 90 HP for the SPFI EA82 with either the SPFI or a Weber vs. the 63 HP of the EA71. 95 HP for the MPFI EA82's, and 115 HP for the EA82T's. But as pointed out - an EJ22 would fit better and have a ton more power (130 HP). More diffiicult to swap wireing wise, and if you want a newer tranny there's nothing for it but a lot of work - the tunnel will not easily accept anything newer without some fab work or a lift. GD

It's not blow-by. That can't lead to oil in the airbox - only in the exhaust. The engine is an air pump and the valve work as check valves. As the engine runs air can ONLY go one way. Thus any oil introduced by the rings can only go out the exhaust valve. The ONLY place oil in the airbox comes from is the PCV system. Your valve is probably fine - it's the 300,000 miles of carbon and oil that's blocking the PCV hoses, fittings, and valve cover ports. You need to clean out all the hoses and fittings, and remove and clean the ports on the valve covers. And replace the PCV with one from the dealer (ONLY from the dealer) for good measure. Check EVERY connection, T, fitting, etc. Put them back how you found them and do the oil-burning-on-sweeping-left-hand-turns recall repair to keep them from getting munged up again so quickly in the future. GD

Yes - and the hanger. Doug - you probably have a bad u-joint or a bad rear axle Double-Offset-Joint. The diff is likely to be just fine. GD

Chevron 10w30. Get it at Costco for very reasonable. Change it every 3k to 5k depending on conditions and how much you add due to leaks between changes. You can change the filter every other oil change per Subaru's guidelines. There's lots of reasons for my choice - primarily I've torn down many oil lubed peices of equipment and engines and I'll tell you that the important part is that it's changed regularly and that it's the correct viscosity for the equipment and conditions. There are so many variables that it's best to judge each vehicle based on it's condition and driving conditions rather than a blanket statement. If I had a brand new or rebuilt engine for example I would run synthetic and change it much less frequently. One of the best indicators of oil condition is actually the simplest - color. In a clean engine with a properly operating PCV system the oil should be a nice golden color. If it's jet black or you can barely see through a sample of it then it needs to be changed - regardless of the mileage. A distinct color change indicates contamination and temperature related breakdown. It's as good a way to judge oil as any and trust me - if you sample your oil for color change, top it off regularly, and change it when you get a large color change, at the 3k to 5k interval, or after a significant mechanical event, you'll have trouble free operation for as long as anyone else. GD

You could go through the dealer but they are a bit pricier. The Beck-Arnley is going to be a repackaged OEM pump as well. Basically any place you can get an oil pump will be the same OEM pump as no aftermarket manufacturers make them for the EA81's. Beck-Arnley does the repackaged stuff a lot I've noticed - I bought some engine mounts for my hatch on sale from rock-auto and inside one of the boxes the repackage people had neglected to take the mount out of the Subaru OEM plastic baggie . www.rockauto.com has the Beck-Arnley (again - it's just a repackaged Atsugi OEM pump, so just as good as the dealer) for $95.79. Take it apart, but be prepared for a surprise as by that mileage it will be a pile of poo. You will be scared to put it back in. All the 100,000+ mileage EA81 pumps I've pulled down have been completely wasted inside. It's amazing they work at all considering the damage I've seen. A testament to their close tollerance construction. GD

Not at all. I guarantee the cylinders are nothing like "loose", and heavier oil is only going to harm the bearings - it really won't help. The tollerances inside the EA's stay pretty much solid till very near when they blow apart. GD

With the high mileage of your engine you are going to want a new oil pump. Take it apart and you'll see what I mean. GD

It's the other way around. Pre-83 were all the same, and 83+ got larger clutch sets and different flywheel for 4WD only. 2WD's stayed the smaller size. So it depends - is his 4WD flywheel an 82 or older? If so it will work. If not it won't. Simple. GD

When the throttle plates open more than a few degrees they expose the transition ports and the idle ports are no longer exposed to the low pressure area under the throttle plates. You can actually shut off the idle circuits if you open the throttle plates with the speed screw too much. It's more around 1500 RPM that they cut out. Try this - remove the idle jet and holder and then see how far you have to take the speed screw before it will run on the primary (with no jet or holder it won't suck any fuel through the circuit). That's where the idle port is no longer receiving any vacuum. Yes - any RPM where the mains are operating, so are the air bleeds. GD

I have the two peice in my Brat. Just build some little brackets for the center carrier bearing. Took me like an hour and cost me nothing. The carrier mounts are not load bearing - they support the weight of the driveline and that's all. 14 gauge sheet metal works just fine. You bend some small brackets in your bench vise, pull the carpet back and either bolt them or weld them to the pan. The two-peice has benefits: 1. less vibration potential as the center carrier is a CV joint. Mounting of the carrier is not critical - just as long as it's reasonably straight. 2. Off-the-shelf. I can get a replacement front or rear section for peanuts at literally any yard, and it's a stock Subaru part if I had to order one for whatever reason. 3. Higher ground clearance. 4. A longer single-peice will actually lower the Brat's stock driveline ground clearance as the additional length makes it stick down more in the rear. Except for hatchbacks (where you HAVE to do a custom driveline due to wheelbase), there's no reason to have custom single-peice drivelines made up. The stock two-peice is arguably better in every way.

Clogged cat's don't cause problems with power so much as they eliminate the scavenging ability and the mileage goes to poo. The O2's are narrow-band and thus have no effect on WOT operation. They are present for cruise mixture validation and correction only as they can only read 14.7:1 (stoich) mixture accurately or give a general indication of whether the ECU needs to go rich or lean to get to stoich. Valve adjustment (non hydro), tune up (cap, rotor, clean/gap plugs, wires if they look bad), check/adjust ignition timing, check ignition coil, clean air filter, inspect/clean PCV and EGR systems, etc. Make sure the secondary is opening on the carb, and look down the barrels - make sure the top cover gasket isn't melting into the carb as they do when they get old and eaten by fuel. GD

Unless it's an automatic. GD

Excelent. Most all the failure's I've seen were from improper installation, or improper routing. Got my hatch for $200 because the owner thought the clutch was bad (they had just replaced it). It was installed incorrectly at the pedal end and had broken the rubber sheath. I put in a brand new cable from the dealer and the brand new clutch they had installed worked perfectly. Time will tell if they did the clutch properly or not I suppose GD

4WD is for soft surfaces - like gravel, dirt, and mud. If you drive in 4WD on hard pavement you will not hurt anything (with stock tire sizes), but you will have "torque bind" where the car will not want to go forward if you try to turn sharply..Just like a truck. This is not AWD so it is not designed for dry pavement. GD

Was it routed under the steering linkage? I've seen them installed many, many times routed over the top (bad). GD

Hook the hose up to the water heater. GD

I always just take them loose and set them in the spare tire area. At any rate it's something you have to take loose regardless whether you do a new engine or the head gaskets. Sounds like you are doing well - good luck with the rest of the engine. GD

That's pretty typical - best power is around 12.5:1 so your meter *should* show off the scale rich whenever you get on it hard. Even slight throttle will richen the mixture past what the meter can effectively read. Remember - "off the scale" lean for you is anything above 15.1:1 or so with the narrowband sensor. You can really lean stuff out at near-closed-throttle cruise because the engine is producing very low power - thus pre-detonation isn't much of a concern. The idea is to lean it out till you start getting a small amount of lean surge (you'll understand when you start changing jets)' date=' and then go back up one step richer. It's a balancing act with the primary idle jet and the primary main jet/air corrector as light throttle cruise draws on both. Then in the secondary's you want some nice rich power making jets for passing, ect. And you want a nice flat progression between the two worlds - that's a big part of what the secondary idle jet does. It assists the progression between primary and secondary main jets.

#1. Buy a Weber kit - you'll be ahead of the game. #2. You probably won't get the right carb - there's many factors that go into that. #3. The actual model number of the carb will be on the back of the float bowl. It will be some derivation of the DCZ-328 with a few more numbers or letters. #4. Most problems people think are the carburetor are not. Most times it's either a vacuum problem or an ignition problem. Short of the DCZ choke springs, they are not bad carbs at all. They run well for a long, long time and usually only fail from top-gasket erosion or from main throttle shaft wear. Either condition is easily corrected with a rebuild kit or a throttle shaft bushing job - both of which are many, many times less expensive than a new carb. GD

I'm very interested in the Brat panel. If you could find out that would be excelent. GD

No - there is nothing but the bolt for the crank pulley's on the NA EA82's. You didn't put enough torque on it if it came loose. GD

I know - I see it in the pic. I beleive the carter/weber pipe is different. Correct me if it isn't, but it looks like it. Also it's generally easier to take them loose at the head. That way the manifold doesn't have to slide sideways to come off. Just straight up. No - you really do want it. It's just one vacuum line from the front of the Weber to the valve. That's it. And you watch the valve to be sure it opens with increased throttle. GD

Why? The Weber is fully capable of utilizing EGR and it has no drawbacks as far as the EA81 is concerned. In fact it lowers exhaust temps which help to prevent exhaust valve burning, and it lowers emissions in a pretty significant way. Connie - trust me. Leave the EGR. GD

The problem is that you are missing the EGR pipe going from the passenger side head to the manifold (the copper one) and the carter/weber one is different..... at least I think it is...... Someone has one laying around I'm sure. I have one somewhere if you can't get one from a local. Also you will need the 1-3/4" filter as the 2-1/2" unit you have is too large to clear the hood properly. It will close, but the filter with be jammed against the hood in a not-cool way. GD