GeneralDisorder

Right on - glad you got it running. Was it worth doing? Your setup file would be most appreciated. I may install MS on my SPFI powered Brat prior to doing an EJ22 swap to it since the SPFI is already in place and I can do the MS install and wireing before swapping the motor out. GD

Yeah - you should always mention what car you are talking about unless people know that you know what you are asking about. I knew because I remembered your other EA81 threads about your 83 Brat. GD

That's how it works on a Legacy, but the Loyale's didn't work that way. There is enough room to accomidate the full size stock tire under the hood and they didn't come with a hold-down for the trunk area. I'm not sure what it is but it's not for the flat tire. GD

When you get a Hitachi manifold, you will also need the EGR pipe that goes to it from the passenger side head. I can see they are different from your pictures. Looks good - what exactly hasn't gone well? GD

All the hydro's have the adjusters. There is a procedure for adjusting them too. You have to look at the push-rods. GD

Yep - you won't see it on the stock coils. GD

It's for points-style ignitions. It lowers the voltage once that alternator kicks in so the engine starts easier, and the points wear slower. It's not applicable to the electronic ignition systems. GD

Not with the Subaru electronic distributor. Also you should pick up a STOCK coil. These aftermarket ones are crap. (Accel included). Get the same brand as your distributor. GD

Correct. You don't need it. What Nipper was refering to is probably a resistor - the Subaru ignition systems didn't use coil resistors as they have electronic ignition modules. GD

Looks fine - just have that bracket brazed back on. New one's are cheap though so maybe not worth the effort. New headgaskets so..... it sure is tempting. Having much work done on a radiator that cost less than $120 generally isn't a wise move. Radiator shops are too expensive at that level and will cost almost as much as new. But a good steam clean (hook your pressure washer to the hot water heater ) and braze that joint (cheap).... I would run it. GD

That's what you would expect, but without knowing how many amps you were pushing though it... could have been several hundred if it was a dead short. The spec is at 130 amps - which is a LOT. For conduit runs that will see 130 amps (that's about a 125 HP three-phase motor) the specification is for 250 Amp time-delay motor rated fuses and 3/0 (000) wire. Stranded copper as big around as your thumb (and I've seen those get hot). Thus my concern at this 15 second number.... GD

Remove the valve cover and look at the push-rod. If it's solid steel they are hydro. If it's aluminium with a steel cap they are solid. GD

EA82 carb's only have the one by the tank. It's the EA81's that have the "vapor seperator" that is also a filter in the front. GD

You just didn't use enough heat fast enough. You have to get a LOT of heat to the cup before it soaks into the stub. Borrow or rent an oxy-torch. Use a #2 cutting tip and just use the preheat flame. Should be plenty of heat to expand the cup and get it off the splines. GD

Could be the switch or the resistor block. But put 12v to the motor first. It's just a blower motor - lots of 12v DC motors will fit or interchange. Not particularly rare. GD

I told him to do that 13 threads ago . As long as the solenoid is there and the ref thinks it's hooked to the EGR (through some magical hard lines under the manifold ), then you are golden. The solenoid is only there for warm-up. He see's a solenoid, and a working EGR, and lines all around plus no codes.... good enough. GD

Right on - that's the attitude to have. I'll be hooking up my wideband to my Weber soon so I'll have a better idea of how to help you. GD

There is your mis-understanding. All fuses have some sort of time-delay. Although the common automotive fuses aren't usually marked with this sort of rating as they do blow "almost" instantly - for most purposes. Fuses that most people come in contact with are designed that way. But most of your three-phase industrial fuses are time-delay. This is because across-the-line starters and such draw down HUGE amperage when starting three phase motors. 7 to 10 times the rated full load amps (FLA) of the motor. Time delay fuses or breakers are employed that allow for that. The 12v DC variety of fuseing though is not done this way. The links are there primarily to prevent fires from direct shorting or bypassing the fuses, etc. They are designed to melt rapidly when you exceed their rating - IE: before the wireing melts and catches fire. 130 amps through a 10 or 12 AWG wire is a LOT. I hope 15 seconds is wrong as that would likely leave the car pretty crispy. If you actually melted one, I wouldn't be surprised at all if you melted wireing insulation elsewhere in the harness if that 15 second rule is accurate. GD

I highly doubt you have a coil problem. The stock coil's rarely fail and when they do I have never known one to cause any kind of hard starting - they just don't run at all. They are oil-filled and when they short, they usually dead short and won't spark at all. Also the ND and Hitachi coil's have different specs for primary/secondary resistance. Your readings sound just fine. Your problem is fuel/timing related. When was the last time you checked out the mechanical advance in the distributor. Perhaps it's sticky. Have you tried the $8 manual choke kit? Seriously - the electric choke's on the EA82's are crap. It's either over or under chokeing it when hot. Or you have a thermo-valve that is opening one of the vacuum valves when hot... etc. There's a lot of stuff in the feedback's that could cause that. The coil is so far down the list you shouldn't consider it. GD

1. Remove #1 plug - find TDC using a drinking straw and with your finger make sure both valves are closed (air will push past your finger). 2. Align the timing mark with 8 degrees BTDC. 3. Install the distributor with the rotor pointing at one of the plug tower's. 4. Install the plug wires counter-clockwise from the tower you chose in the order 1,3,2,4. 5. Adjust final timing with a light off the #1 plug wire. GD

How else would you rate it? It's a device desiged to burn up when "too much" current passes through it. Current is rated in Amperes.... ergo how else would you put a number to "too much". I would have to look in the FSM for the specifications on the red link's to tell you for sure if they are 50. Probably. Sounds about right. The concerning part is that you blew one in the first place. And don't go willy-nilly replacing the original's with "new" ones. There's no benefit to that and messing with something that works isn't smart. Find out why you blew the first one. That should NEVER happen. GD

Brat = 4WD, so probably not. Gearing differences. Freeway he should see around 27 maybe 28. GD

It's not that simple. It runs for a specified time interval when you switch it to on as well. It primes for about 1.5 seconds. Then it turns off till it see's a tach signal. There's a fuel pump control unit that's responsible for that unless it's a feedback carb. Disconnect the line and power the pump externally to verify operation and fuel flow. GD

Unfortunately the SPFI canister has 4 lines with one capped off. So not sure how you can explain that to the ref.... At least the one on my 91 has 4 lines with one capped and it's a stock 91 canister. That's just BS. But whatever. Yeah - that makes sense. Dymo to the rescue. . I would have done it while he was standing there. Insane. Clean it - soak the moving pin and such in carb cleaner to disolve the carbon. If that doesn't do it then replace it with a JY model. GD

That's way too much for a 2WD with that mileage. Pass. GD