GeneralDisorder

Some did - upper model GL's, all GL-10's, and all Turbo's. Only the Turbo Brat had PS. No other Brat came with it stock. GD

Weber kits are around $400 SPFI is whatever you can get the parts for - usually around $200 or so from a yard. GD

Tighter than you can get it with an impact actually. By the book it has to be 150 ft/lbs. 200 to 250 with a 3/4 drive breaker bar and a 4 foot cheater is where I stop. The cone washer under the nut is worn out - probably very badly at this point. Possbily the hub, and perhaps the splines on it and the axle as well. When these are allowed to loosen repeatedly all of these items can be damaged. You'll need to take it all apart, clean, and carefully inspect each peice for wear. I'll tell you right now you need a new cone washer and probably the hub it mates into as well. On a carb.... wouldn't hurt anything. The flow rate through them is low so as long as it runs it's fine. GD

Yeah - that won't hurt it any. Still - put up a wanted post for an EA82 sway - people are always upgrading the OEM's on their RX's and such with the XT6 version.... shouldn't be too hard to find one. GD

Did you completely dissasemble the oil pump and check the internals? What did you check, and against what specs? Of the pumps I've had apart, very few overall were not worn too badly to be reused. But then I've done mostly EA81 pumps. The pump design is similar though. It's usually not the rotor clearances that get you - it's the sleeve bearings and the end plates that get torn up. GD

An EA82 Turbo rear sway bar is much easier and cleaner to install - you just have to cut the brackets off the EA82 trailing arms and weld them to the EA81 arms. The ends of the sway bar have to be shortened slightly as well - a band saw would be best. Qman did that with his dark grey Brat IIRC. They mount ONLY to the arms so fitment is much easier as there is no modifications to the torsion bar tube. GD

Are you SURE you put the lifters back in their original locations? GD

You are better off leaving it be till you can replace it. After a 10 year study of bearing life by a major corporation that had people who's job it was JUST to go around and zirk everything in sight they determined that: 1. 90% of all bearing failures were due to OVER-greasing. 2. Only a thin film of grease is required to get maximum bearing life. 3. Adding or regreasing bearings nearly always results in shorter bearing life than just leaving it be till it fails. Baldor removed the grease zirks from their 50+ HP motors a few years ago, and I was told BY THEIR ENGINEERS that this was done because the tendancy was to over-grease the bearings and blow the shields out of them - having the zirk actually invites that tendancy. Alas the move generates so many calls to their tech center they put the zirks back in to stop the insane call volume . GD

Probably not - the cam seals also have a large o-ring behind their retainer plate that is replaced at the same time as the cam seals themselves. To replace the cam tower o-ring the cams must be removed from the heads. It sounds very much like the mechanic is not aware that the cam towers are seperate entities from the heads as that is not typical of overhead cam engine design - it's unusual, and specific to the EA82. The result is TWO seams on each side - one for the tower, and one for the head gasket itself. I would lay money on them mistaking the cam tower seam for the head gasket seam, and thus your oil leak is the cam tower o-ring and not the head gaskets. Highly doubt it. You're welcome. It's good they seem to be honest, but don't mistake honesty for knowledge. If they don't know what they are looking at then they are as useless as a dishonest mechanic. Hyundia and Kia are both a step down from your EA82 in my opinion. I've worked on both and of the two Kia is better but none of the Korean made cars can compare to the Japanese products for reliability and quality of construction. Most likely no. At the mileage you are at the head gaskets are extremely unlikely to be bad at all. The EA82's are good for 200 to 250k on the original head gaskets and usually 300k or more on the mechanical components with good maintenance. Even if they blew completely and you overheated it till it wouldn't run anymore (unlikely), simply replacing them would fix it. No permanent damage is likely to result. GD

That's weird about the GCK's having tripod's for the EA82 axles - the EA81 axles I've got from them weren't built that way at all. They pretty much dissapeared off the market so I've switched to EMPI axles. No problems yet - brand new, $57 each, no core Sounds like a lot of problems are comming together to create a pretty nasty operating evironment for your transmissions. The fact that the body is starting to flex out of control is going to over-stress things on a regular basis. The front axles do not like bad transmission mounts and loose movement on a regular basis. They get some off-road, but if you have bad mounts and bad axles, ect then you are stressing everything just going down a paved road. That will put years of wear on them in a matter of months. GD

No - the cam case o-rings are not the same as the cam seals. They most likely were not done from the sounds of it. You can try. It might take several rounds of pictures before you get what we need. Steam clean the whole shebang first if you can. Warped heads are almost unheard of and at most will result in an extra $75 charge to have them milled flat again. These engines are 100% aluminium so they rarely warp or crack heads on the non-turbo engines such as your's. Also oil-leakage with no evidence of coolant leakage, overheating, or compression problems is no reason to assume the head gaskets are going to cause any issues whatsoever beyond leaking some oil. Excelent advice GD

It's probably the cam case o-rings rather than the head gaskets. And if it is the head gaskets and it's only a few drops of oil then don't concern yourself with it - just leave it be and monitor your oil usage. If it's the cam case o-rings, then they should be replaced to keep proper oil pressure to the lifters and keep the cams properly lubed. They are special metal reinforced o-rings that should only be obtained from the dealer. They cost about $3 each, but the labor to install them involves takeing all the stuff apart they already dissasembled to replace the timing belt's and everything else. These SHOULD have been done at that time and if they were not it indicates your mechanic is not familair enough with the particulars of the EA82 engine. You should probably consider taking it to someone that really knows EA82's. Most mechanics aren't familair enough with the specifics of these engines to properly maintain them. They are different than almost all other automotive engine designs in several key areas. To propely pinpoint any leaks, the engine should be entirely steam cleaned and then run till the leaks can be propely identified. I didn't see that you have replaced the oil pan gasket - that is a major source of leaks on these engines. Use only the OEM dealer gasket and coat it fully in a thin layer of RTV to prevent it from failing again in the future. These are old cars - if you are uncomfortable with working on it yourself, or are unable to do so you should seriously consider getting a 90-94 1st generation Legacy with lower mileage. They are quite a bit more reliable and you'll have a much easier time finding people that know them. GD

Partially, yes. It was discovered by Kodak as part of a weapons research program durring WWII but it's use wasn't really understood at that time. One of it's early uses however was for treating battlefield wounds durring vietnam. It wasn't approved by the FDA till much later and it's use didn't become widespread in the medical industry till the 90's. It is excelent at stopping bleeding, and is used often for "sutureless" surgery. It bonds best when moisture is present which makes it ideal for skin. GD

I just took another crack at a Hitachi (EA81), and the results were pretty good. Some things to remember: Write down all the numbers from the jets and air bleeds and where they came from so you get them back in the right locations. Don't lose the accelerator pump check ball, and put the spring back with the loop that seats the check ball facing down. Pay close attention to the throttle base shaft bushings - if they are worn have them replaced by a machine shop. You will never get a proper idle or transision off the idle circuit if they have much wear. In your case inspect the bimetal choke spring carefully as the hook on the end of the spring is usually broken off on the EA82 models. Replace the vacuum hose for the secondary barrel vacuum pot with a new peice of silicone hose. As for soaking - I don't usually find that neccesary. I will put jets and other small parts with tiny holes in them in a shallow container of carb cleaner while I clean other parts. But really gasoline is a decent solvent already so there is rarely a need for removal of any deposits unless the carb hasn't run for many years and was left with old fuel in it. Regularly run carbs rarely have many deposits in them - mostly the malfunctions have to do with bad gaskets and o-rings, and worn throttle shaft bushings. It took me a good 7 hours to do a proper rebuild and clean everything. It runs good overall, but for the work and time I've put into learning all about the Hitachi's I could have done a Weber several times over. GD

The piston sizes ARE different in some USDM models. There are three different (for each side - 6 total part #'s) rear calipers used, according to my parts manual, across the turbo/xt line, and a fourth type used for XT6's. There are only two types of pads - regular, and XT6. There are three types because there was a change in 87. Up to 12/86 there is a single pair of part numbers for rear calipers. 1/87 and up have two different part numbers based on the vehicle. The piston size is *largely* a product of the type of drivetrain - 2WD's had a smaller piston than 4WD's. BUT that's not true of non-RX Turbo 4WD Sedan's - they had the smaller pistons as well (all non-RX sedan's [1/87 and up] use the same smaller caliper) The calipers DO interchange between 2WD's and 4WD's, so it's never easy to know what is on an older car without measureing the pistons. XT6 is a different animal according to my parts book. None of the number match up. This of course says little about the AUS market vehicles. You might have to ask some of your local soob nuts. GD

Those strips are glued in place. Sounds like you just aren't using the proper adhesive. Super glue.... isn't - pretty worthless for most things - great for skin as that's what it was designed for. Go to the auto parts store and find some epoxy of some sort. Something that stays flexible in low temps. RTV might do it, but probably not for long. If all else fails - get a tube of 3M Windsheild Urethane - that will do it for sure. You don't need any of those strips anyway - they are just there for appearance. The windsheild is glued in place and won't leak regardless of those strips. If you really want to replace it get a new one at the dealership. GD

Wait? Tripod bearings?? What kind of axle are you using? Subaru axles use a DOJ on the inside.. And what are you running for your drivetrain? Are you running a t-case with a 5 speed? How hard/how often are you trailing your rig? GD

Then you admit were irresponsible in not telling potential readers of your post that this will affect their camber and cause premature tire wear? Tire wear and money may not mean much to you, but what about your intended audience? You want all the glory for some pretty pictures without any of the dirty laundry associated with your "procedure". That's not a good impression to make with only 10 posts to your name. Next time tell the whole story or let someone else tell it. GD

"having" it rebuilt isn't practical - there's few that know these carbs. You could rebuild it yourself - the kit's are about $20 to $50 depending on where you get one. And you'll need the choke housing - either a good used one, or a new one from the dealer. Then there's the Weber 32/36 DGV route - there is a kit made for the EA82, or you can buy the carb and get the base adaptor plate seperate. These aren't technically street legal, so you may have to either be creative with your install to hide it, or deal with the emissions police. All depends on your area. There is also the SPFI conversion - by far it's the best running and driving of the three, but it's also a LOT more complex of an install. You can read my article here about EA81's. At the bottom is a link to Snowman's original write-up which was geared to EA82's. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Camber isn't an issue off-road. Getting to/from the "off-road" is generally paved. Large/agressive tires are expensive. You'll not get more than about 10,000 miles out of a tire run with camber like that. If you like buying tires then go ahead - doesn't bother me any. Anyway - you do the math on what works for you. I've experienced this many times and I know what works and doesn't. I've cranked up/down more struts than I care to remember and it's not bad off-road. But you have to put them back down for pavement or you pay the piper. None of this is anything new - do some searches and you'll see. The folks such as myself that own lifted rigs have been doing this sort of thing for a while now. GD

I got an OEM one about two weeks ago for $91 from my local discount import shop (VW specialists). GD

Adjusting the front up like that will throw the camber way off and will wear the tires out very quickly. It's a poor option for added height unless you combine it with 1" lift blocks on the engine cross-member. GD

That has nothing to do with your transmission. You have not yet learned the ways of the EA engine. I could easily do 90-100 in every 4 speed I've owned. You have much to learn, and a lot of repair/tuning to do. GD

You did replace the oil pump I hope? 200k - they are more than well-done at that point. GD

The hook on the end of the bimetal choke spring is broken off. You'll find it resting in the bottom of the choke housing. Good luck finding a good one. The window is just the switches - clean the contacts inside the switches. Don't lose the tiny parts when you dissasemble them. GD