GeneralDisorder

Replace the o-ring on the dipstick, and R&R your PCV valve, hoses, and valve cover ports. GD

Change/clean the PCV valve, all the hoses, and the valve cover ports. GD

It can hurt, yes. The resistance of the MSD/Accel are lower in order to facilitate a larger, hotter spark. While this may be good/useful for ignition (which is still debatable, and highly depends on application, mixture, ect), it is causing more voltage to reach the ignition module inside the distributor. This will degrade the module faster - often pushing an older module over the edge. Nothing lasts forever, but as with all electronics, the hotter you run them, the shorter their lifespan. So there is always risk involved. Just as there is with running a ND distributor on a Hitachi coil - same situation if you reference the above specs I gave. The ND module was not designed to trigger the larger voltage that the Hitachi coil runs. GD

MSD coils are crap - made in mexico along with Accel. Get an OEM ND coil. Try rockauto.com or thepartsbin.com GD

Just a matter of using your ohmmeter on the terminals of the coil. You know the coil works, so it should be obvious from putting the leads across a few of the terminals which is which. A good, accurate Digital Multimeter (DMM) is essential to any automotive toolkit IMO. And not a cheap one either - those are good for paper weights. You need at least something with a range function - it greatly improves the usability of the DMM's - you can tell the meter what you are interested in and it will be able to disregard small changes that will confuse the readings on cheaper meters. GD

I change cars like I change underwear I currently own 3 EA81's. I've only ever had to change a cable once in all the EA81's I've ever owned with the exception of my lifted wagon (used an aftermarket the first time) - Because I use OEM cable's, and I do it right the first time. Done right, the cables should last at least the life of the clutch. They should also never snap on you because it should be pretty obvious they are stretching, or are difficult to press - this indicates that the cable is wearing through it's nylon sheath internally and wants replaceing. EA81 clutches should operate smoothly and with almost no effort. GD

Coil's are tested by checking the resistance of the primary and secondary windings. Per book specifications: ND coil: Primary: 1.13 - 1.38 Ohms Secondary: 10,795 - 14,605 Ohms Hitachi coil: Primary: 1.04 - 1.27 Ohms Secondary: 7,360 - 11,040 Ohms GD

Take the pipe out, media blast it, cut out the bad section and weld in a new peice of sheet metal. Send the thing out to be zinc coated. Don't fool with rubber hose - VW used rubber on some of their stuff and the filler nozzle will chew it up. Helped a buddy at work pull dozens of strands of rubber out of his fuel system from the filler nozzle ripping up the rubber filler neck each time it was inserted. GD

He's talking about the FI distributors - that won't work on the carbed units. The BUSHING is pressed in, and must be machined out and a new one installed. The FI's used pin bearings which are replaceable. GD

GREASE! You can't run these things dry forever:dead: Pull the drive gear off and yank the shaft out - the grease in them gets old, dry and crusty. It probably wouldn't have failed if you had R&R'd it before you stuck it in the car GD

Yeah - ~$50 to $75 is for a rebush. You send them the disty dissasembled. It's around $35 to rebuild vac advance cans. $100 plus shipping should cover both those jobs easily. The rest of the stuff usually just needs a good cleaning and a few dabs of grease. Total rebuild probably includes a new pickup, rebuilt advance, complete dissasembly, and complete reassembly. Still a deal at $245 for all you would be getting. And replacement rebuilt assembly's are generally twice that at least. Best bet if you want cheap is to get a used one. Any good machine shop could rebush the shaft - that's a no-brainer to a machinist. Philbin is just nice because they do things like the vacuum advance pots. GD

Google image search.... http://www.nuttybolts.com/catalog/images/PRO-Roll%20Pin.jpg GD

Most dealers can have clutch cables the next business day for you. Those are commonly stocked at the local warehouse level. You can also try www.subarupartsforyou.com, or some of the other dealerships that sell parts online. You don't even have to leave your chair anymore if you don't want to. You should also order the pin and the sping clip that attach the cable to the pedal. The pins are almost always shot, and you don't want to have to try and reuse that silly spring clip which, upon removal, will take flight somewhere into the neighbor's yard that's gaurded by a large mastiff... Both are cheap - I buy 5 of each at a time. GD

No - dealer only. Doesn't it say that in my write up!? Dealer should only be about $20. GD

Tranny may be shot - if it were the driveline it would be in all gears with 4WD engaged. Also the driveline shouldn't matter in 2WD. Ticking isn't good - means you have oil pressure issues, and it takes a big problem with the oil pressure to make the EA81 hydro's tick. Remove the oil pump and inspect carefully for damage. That's correct - it should be 8 - not 10, not 12. If it doesn't run correctly at 8 then you have the carb set wrong. GD

AIS has absolutely nothing to do with the manifold. You can remove it at any time. GD

Check the pump, and it's volume/pressure. And you might have a problem with a sticky float or needle valve. It can happen. GD

That will work, but it's better to pull out the nipples, and tap the holes for alan head set screws. Then you locktite them in place. And JB weld is kind of crappy/cheap/home depot level stuff. Get some Dev-Con that's made for filling aluminium if you go that route - when it dries you can file it smooth and you won't be able tell it's there. I would still sink set screws in till they are about 1/8" below the surface though. If you have the means, pull the nipples out and TIG the holes. GD

You can do anything you like - it doesn't mean it will work good. You will need some vacuum lines. Brake booster, etc. And deleting things like the EGR - that's a judgement call. It reduces combustion temps be several hundred degrees - that's good for the environment, and good for your exhaust valves, seals, and engine operating temps. It doesn't hurt performance either. Before you go modifying anything - you need to understand how the system works now, how you want it to work and why, and all the trade off's you are going to make to get there. Otherwise you'll end up with a half-assed POS like well over half the people around here. GD

The orientation of the filter doesn't matter - just pay attention to the arrow that indicates direction of flow through it. There's a clip that it should snap into near the pump. If I remember correctly the nipples are toward the top of the filter, but you should be able to tell from the bend in the hoses, and the location of the bracket. Don't forget the vapor-seperator/filter under the hood as well. Also there may be a screen in the inlet of the carb, and there's also supposed to be an orifice in the return line.... or maybe the nipple is the orifice. It's hard to tell from the FSM. GD

They seem fine - I've used two of them and wasn't appaled at the quality of the components. Definitely inexpensive bearings, etc - but the EA82's change interval is so short that as long as you do the whole kit each time it shouldn't be a problem. And for the price you might as well do everything each time. I wouldn't go and try to run 120k on those cheap bearings, but the price is right for an every 50k maintenance schedule. GD

The '89 may be an EA82 three-door. It's hard to say without going there. Tigard (which is really Sherwood/King City) has more than that - as of yesterday they have an 86 Hatch (2WD 4 speed STD), 84 Hatch (2WD Auto), 83 GL Wagon (D/R 4WD, Digi-dash), and an 83 Turbo Wagon. All of which I've picked over pretty hard of course. Sherwood is my yard of choice for older Subaru's in the area - they also often undercharge me. GD

Steering rack's don't pop generally. Check the ball joints and the leading rod bolts/bushings. GD

The aircraft guys have been doing it for years - on the back of the passenger side head there is a cover with an o-ring beneath it. That's where the EJ distributor was designed to go. Apparently some other countries got carbed EJ's so the hole for the disty is already there. Pop the cover off and the escort disty is a close fit. GD

Nope - the feedback Hitachi is orignal. I suppose - if it were me I would be doing an SPFI swap - easy on the EA82's. Weber of SPFI, yeah. GD