GeneralDisorder

Well - I don't know that I would say that.... upon closer inspection it appears that (as usual) things are a lot more complex than a simple yes or no.... From my parts manual quick reference (1985-1998) the specifications are thusly: Rotors are listed as all the same: #25431GA180 Pads are listed as all the same (kit): #25191GAf32 Calipers are the difference: (RH = Right Hand, LH = Left Hand) RH(25110GA180) LH(25190GA010): 12/1986 - 3D 4WD, RX; SW GL, GL10, 4WD RH(25110GA182) LH(25110GA381): 1/1987 - 3D GL, RX, RS; SW DL, GL, GL10, 4WD RH(25110GA372) LH(25110GA382): 3D GL; 4D; 3D DL, RX; SW DL, GL, GL10 So not only is it a model thing, but also a year thing. But it does appear that the Sedan (listed as 4D) only got the smaller ones.... but so did 2WD's.... heh - they list a 2WD RX:rolleyes:.. So I guess you can say that the Sedan, and ALL 2WD's got the smaller calipers. Not that anyone gives a hoot about 2WD rear discs, but I figured I would look. What do ya know - learn something every day! Also interesting to note that the only difference in 2WD vs. 4WD disc assembly's is the hub, and possibly the backing plate, but I think that's only different because you need the 2WD calipers to go with em, which are the same as the 4WD sedan calipers, so assuming you get an entire set from a 2WD, and replace the hub with a 4WD disc hub it *should* fit. At least that's my theory... GD

3 door and wagon are the same - only the sedan was different. GD

"keeping it quiet" with band aids doesn't exactly speak volumes about your "tons" of knowledge. Replacing the seals (possibly the pump as well), and R&R of the lifters would be the correct fix. Running other than recommended oils, and additives will shorten the life of other key engine components. But I guess since you work for a wrecker you probably just shrug and get another engine huh? :-\ GD

Just tried to add that to the list, but I am no longer able to edit my list post..... mods? Unless it's an automatic, it's solid. Look for the gold stickers on the valve covers that say "Do not adjust valves". Or remove the valve cover and look at the pushrod - solid lifters have aluminium pushrods with steel caps, and hydro lifters have steel pushrods with no caps (smooth). GD

Oil pump seals get old and hard, and the pump can't put out enough pressure for the lifters to stay fully inflated - thus they tick. Happens a lot actually. GD

Sounds like the cable is starting to frey internally - mine on my wagon did that, and I not knowing any better at the time just tightened it and drove on. About a week later it snapped on an on-ramp. Didn't know how to drive it without the clutch at the time so had to tow it. If it breaks just start the engine in first gear and RPM match your shifts. It can work to get the car home at least... GD

Check out the SPFI conversion manual - I know you already have SPFI, but it gives a nice rundown of how the fuel pump is powered and how it's wired. As well as the pinout of the ECU conectors, and some wireing diagrams: http://mshoup.us/docs/spfi_conversion_manual.pdf Here is also a partial 89 factory service manual that has a lot of good info on the SPFI and such: http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA82/ Thank mikeshoup for hosting this stuff for us.... GD

The fuel pump relay is always powered, it's ground is controlled by the ECU to close the relay. Sounds like perhaps you disconnected or otherwise disturbed one of the grounds for the ECU. Just a guess. When the press the buttons on the dash, it uses engine vacuum to power the actuators - that's the hissing you hear. Without the engine running or having recently run there will be no vacuum present in the accumulator to run the controls. Not sure, but the fan problem might be related as the actuators may switch it on once the reach position.... or it could also be a ground issue. GD

I have to agree with Gary - I rarely pull the engine for head gaskets - and I own a cherry picker. I too use ratcheting wrenches whenever possible, and as he says it's near impossible and totally frustrating to get the valve covers off on the EA82 without one. You guys think EA82's are annoying.... on the EA81 you have to fish the rocker arm bolts through holes in the frame to get them out. But on the whole, the EA82 is worse as you have to deal with cam towers and timing belts and junk. GD

4 speed is longer than the 5, and heavier. GD

There are two cable types, but they are not interchangable. Have a look at my write up: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD

It is NOT (can't stress this enough here - NOT, NOT, NOT - understand?) a device that stops "backfire". It's proper technical name is "anti-afterburn valve". It's sole function is to eliminate the soft poping noises you will hear while coasting quickly (usually downhill) with the throttle plates closed. It is (IMO) a useless, extreanous device that should be eliminated. Get an EGR from an SPFI car that doesn't have the tube, and remove the valve, bracket an all associated junk. Beter yet - grab the whole SPFI and swap it on. And the quarter trick doesn't apply - that's the Air Suction Valve, and is not even connected to the AAV GD

Then there is my solution.... I took the subaru lug nut wrench (ya know - the one from the tool kit). Stuck two appropriately sized bolts in two adjacent holes of the cam sprocket, held the lug wrench up there and tack welded them to it. now I have a lug wrench/cam sprocket tool. Works fabulous. And I HATE strap wrenches. GD

I used the same Redline that Ed uses in my 4 speed, and while it did *help* it did not completely eliminate the 3rd gear and 2nd gear downshift grinding. It's not a cure all, and in the case of the 4 speed, the grinding is largely due to bad syncro design. Note that it's "bad" only in the context of subaru's in general - they routinely last 200k or more - but they shift crappy, the linkage sucks, and they almost always die somewhere between 250k and 300k (less it abused). The 5 speeds are quite the opposite - very nice shift, hardly any syncro problems till they get WAY up in the mileage (with proper maintenance), and there are a TON of them left. It's intesting to note that Subaru STILL uses the same 5 speed design with only minor changes in 20 years. The 6 speed in the STi is the first really new subaru transmission. GD

Eliminate it - you don't need it, and it's a dealer only part. GD

Usually I stick with Fel-Pro, but I get dealer gaskets/seals for Intake Manifold, Oil pump, Oil Pan, EGR, and valve covers. I find the dealer ones are thicker, and better quality for those specific gaskets. The Fel-Pro stuff is cheaper, and their head gaskets are superior. GD

RTV is just "automotive silicone" basically. RTV actually stands for "Room Temperature Vulcanization" - in other words it's silicone based rubber that sets using chemicals instead of heat. The Automotive stuff is colored, usually safe for oxygen sensors (natural silicone vapor will destroy them), and very heat resistant. The most common brand is Permatex, and you should be able to find it virtually anywhere - even Wall Mart. Here's a shot of what I use - it's called Ultra Gray, and blends better with the aluminium block I think. I don't like strange colored goo oozing out my engine. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SNLQG/002-7959755-0570465?v=glance&n=15684181 (just realized that link is for a case of 12 - pay no attention to the price. hehe) Mostly I use it on valve covers, and oil pans. I also use it for water pumps. It's safe for cooling systems, and safe for use around oil, but be very careful not to use too much if you apply it wet. It can get sucked into the oil passages, or lifters. That's why I apply a coating to the gasket and let it fully set up before using it. I try not to use it on anything that comes in contact with gas - it will melt. Tightening the bolt - here you should just "feel" it. Unless you have a very small, and very accurate torque wrench you won't get much a reading from them. Also replace the little rubberized washer under each bolt (Fel-Pro includes them in the gasket sets, but I'm not sure if you can order them seperately. Dealer should have them for a couple bucks). Just tighten them down till you start to see the metal of the cover begin to flex. It's made with the ridges in it to flex and apply tension to the gasket. Over time that's what kills the normal gaskets - the pressure eventually compresses the oil-soaked gasket, it gets cooked, and hard and the bolts get loose. With the RTV this does not happen. GD

Probably compensating for something. GD

yeah - what he said. I'll add what I do to them. I coat the gasket in RTV. What I mean is that I smear a thin layer over the gasket (both sides, and the edges) and let it dry. This prevents the gasket from absorbing hot oil, and cooking themselves into shoe leather. If you do this, you probably won't have to replace them ever again, and you won't have to go back and tighten the bolts more as they will retain their springyness. I don't use any grease or anything - the RTV coating makes them almost like a rubber coated gasket, and they seal very well. As always - clean your mating surfaces. GD

86, and 87 Brat's where imported as trucks. No seats. Before that all the 4WD's (including the wagon, etc) are classified as an "MPV" or multi-purpose vehicle. Not a simple passenger car, and thus not applicable to those laws. Reality is that no cop is going to mess with you, as a mildly lifted Subaru doesn't look "too big" - the most you will get is a warning about tires sticking out past the fenders. GD

I too like the Redline, but there is really no fix for the crappy 4 speed. Only fix for that thing is to get yourself a 5 speed - smoother shifting, and no issues with syncros. GD

You are experiencing "torque bind" which is normal for a 4WD. You are not supposed to engage it in hard surfaces. There are none - not without dissasembling the transmission, which is a lot more work. GD

Depends on what you call easy I guess - if you convert to the rear disc brakes, and use the Nissan 200SX calipers (only slight modification needed), then it's just a matter or rerouting the cable. GD

Rear is easy to do suspension lift on - just clock the torsion bar down a notch, and get some longer shocks. EA82 rear axle joints will afford the needed stretch for the axles. The front is messier. It CAN be done, but the axles do not have as much extension ability as the rear. Half body, and half suspension can be made to work and not stress the axles too much. Stronger springs can be added, along with strut cartridges that have more extension - blocks need to be added to the cross member to keep the alignment, or new lower control arm mounts have to be created, and the leading rod (some call it the radius rod) needs to be lengthened. 1" - 2" of suspension in the front is possible. And with a 4" block lift, you can get 5"-6" reliable, not strain the axles all that much, and still keep the camber flat. It's all about fabrication, and a little investigation of parts. GD

It's not uncommon to blow just one cylinder like that. At least the EA81 couldn't be easier to do the HG on. I actually enjoy those. EA82's are like pulling teeth.... GD