GeneralDisorder

Sure will - oddly enough I've actually done that once. GD

Ok - closer inspection shows the front and rear bearings to be about the same - almost exactly 55.00mm on both. Crank being right around 49.90 that gives both around a .10mm clearance - far beyond spec. The center bearing seems to be the interesting one - my measurements of the bearing show it's right around 55.10mm. That gives the center bearing an oil clearance of .2mm. That may be the source of my knock right there.... what say you? GD

It's very tough to measure - my digital caliper only has accuracy down to .001", and to .01mm so..... the journals on the crank were pretty much all right around 49.90 - 49.91. There didn't appear to be much difference between the three. The bearings are a lot harder to measure, but the plastiguage seemed to indicate some were more worn than others - center and rear were definately not as crushed. Looked like the front was around .075mm clearance, and the rest were a bit more. Possibly as much as .1mm at the rear.... so maybe around .004"....... 4 thousandths cause a noticeable knock? These tollerances are maddeningly close Engine has a brand new oil pump, and new sender - showing 20 - 25 psi hot idle, but I was running 10w40 and sometimes 20w50 in it because I feared the mains were causing the knock. Lets call it 20 psi with 50 weight which would probably put it a bit lower than that with 30 weight - maybe in the 15 psi range. Considering the pump was new and OEM, I'm guessing that to be a little low.... GD

The o-ring is for the oil passage - nothing to do with coolant. Retorque should only be needed with OEM HG's, and even then it's after a break in period. It sounds like maybe you didn't get the manifold on tight - if you don't get them sealed properly they will leak into the intake and burn just like you describe. Also they will leak sometimes around the gasket and into the spark plug areas - there are drain holes in the heads where the coolant will run down underneath and look like it's leaking from the bottom. GD

You talking about the 2WD 5 speed? The EA82's used the same 2WD 5 speed as the EA81's thus the different clutch disc. I don't know about the XT6 tho - while that tranny would in fact bolt up, I'm not sure it would handle the output. GD

Ok - I finally got it torn down to where I can measure stuff (the wrist pin access plug under the water pump was giving me a hard time). I bolted it back together and measured stuff up with a digital caliper. The cam journals are spot on - no news there - the cam being iron and the case bearings being aluminium and all. The case looks good too - some slight wear but nothing bad, and nothing that looks too far out of spec. I think the strange edge wear is just casting problems, but they don't seem to be effecting engine performance, and the rest of the cam wear doesn't seem bad at all really. Looking closely at the wear pattern shows the brunt if the wear is actually happening on the opposite edge of the lobes, and the lifters look decent with only minor pitting. The mains aren't looking so hot. The crank looks to be about .04mm under the smallest spec - all of them are running about 49.91mm. Book calls for 49.957mm - 49.970mm. Looks like the bearings themselves are worn as well. All in I'm guessing the oil clearance to be somewhere around .075mm. Max allowable by the book is .025/.030mm.... What I'm looking for is the "source" of the knock. I want to make SURE I get the cluprit the first time. Who thinks that .075mm would give me the slight knock at warm idle (didn't do it cold, only warm after the oil thinned) that I could hear easily with the oil fill cap off, and feel in the shifter? The knock was a "deep" tone - not something you would expect from the cam or valve train as it didn't seem they would have the mass - it wasn't the light metallic knock of a rod, and it wasn't the tick of a lifter either. So what's the consensus? GD

Heads are probably not cracked - usually the head gasket itself blows out into one of the adjacent coolant passages, and causes the overheating. Cracked N/A heads are very rare. GD

If you can just see small cracks between the intake and exhaust valves that's OK - subaru actually put out a service bulletin about those - only worry if the crack extends into the exhaust passage and are leaking coolant (not likely on anything but the Turbo engines). General rule is if you can't get your thumbnail IN the crack, don't bother fixing it. It will just come back anyway. You can get by with just the head gasket - Fel-Pro all the way, don't have to retorque them - the cam carrier oil passage o-ring, and the manifold gaskets. Get those last two from the dealer - they are only a few dollars. GD

Vacuum actuators usually pull - it's difficult to design ones that push, so if that's needed it's generally performed outside the actuator with a lever setup.... GD

Pretty easy really - what is wrong with your heads? If they just need to be milled flat, then it's not terribly expensive - I usually pay about $35 per head for milling. GD

Do a pressure test - if you had the engine out, or pulled forward coolant might have just dripped down to that area. The non-turbo's don't usually crack like the EA82T's.... GD

Pug alloys are ok, but not a great idea for off-road.... older alloys of any kind are a bad idea for off-road really as they can crack, and when they get bent they are difficult to repair. If you bend a steel rim it's easy enough to pound it back and re-seat the tire to get you home. If you smack an alloy against a rock you will bend it and likely cause a crack - best case you have to search all over creation to find a matching replacement - worst case the crack fails catostrophically at freeway speed.... The chevy 6 lug rims can be had for $25 each brand new shiny.... But those pugs are alright for street, and you can always put those on your Brat... GD

Except in his case, if he goes to a pull-a-part he will likely see about 3 dozen soobs, many with the pump he needs. We here on the left coast have the pick of soobs. Last trip to the yard there was at least 30 EA82's in just one of my local yards, and 4 EA81's too. GD

Yeah - it almost seems that way to me as well - it's an '85.... I wonder if the quality control on the EA81's went downhill after the EA82's came out.... visualize a situation where all the important managment and quality control inspectors (the good ones anyway with mega experience) get shipped over to a new factory floor to jump start production of EA82's.... hhmmm - hard to say. I have the cam from an 89 hatchback engine out and while it does show some pitting, it doesn't have the severe edge deterioration the one from the Brat shows. GD

If you jack up the back of the car nothing will drip out. GD

Tons - just pull up a search for "EA82 Head Gasket" and you'll get a lot of reading material. GD

No - not unless it's leaking so bad that you have a puddle under the car. When they fail (there's only one moving part) the bearings go out and they leak like crazy. There is no failure mode for the water pump where it's "effectiveness" is reduced. It either works or does not. GD

Head Gaskets are generally about a 4 - 8 hour job depending on skill level and how many times you have done it (and how many problems you run into) - not including machine shop time if the heads need to be milled (likely they are warped if it's been that hot). I would definately make sure you are on the right track before you dive into those, but it's very common with the EA82 when it's been overheated. GD

What are you trying to do? Lower it? Raise it? Better handling? Tighter as in what? Stiffer springs for handling? Lower to the ground? There really isn't any web sites for this - you have to find something that fits your application and make it work. You may have to cut some springs down, or modify the spring perches on the strut tube, etc. If you convert to 5 lug suspension using XT6 parts, you'll have a lot more options for front struts - the rear is just a coil-over and there are some accord springs that are similarly sized. GD

Do a search for "Axle Replacement" this has been covered weekly on here for years.... GD

Losses oil pressure and dies?!?! That's not normal at all. If it got that hot, the engine has almost certainly blown a head gasket. Do a compression test, and check for oil/water mixing. And a pressure test would be a good idea as well to see where you are losing pressure. A bad radiator could have started this whole mess - they often do. GD

Any pump from an EA82 Turbo will work - see your local pull-a-part for details. Should be less than $20 for a used unit. Do a search on here for Ford Fuel Pump - there's some reasonably priced units that will do the job. GD

Coil is red to positive and yellow to negative from the distributor, and there should be another red wire from the car harness that goes to the positive on the coil to provide power, and another yellow wire on the car - your tach signal. Timing = 8 degrees. GD

The 90's Ford Ranger's had a pump that will work - do a search for it on here. Apparently you want the one that is mounted on the frame rail, not in the tank. Frankly tho, the pumps are pretty tough - junk yard pumps can be had cheaply. GD

They didn't change the name - the EA82 GL series was always known as the Loyale from day 1. In fact the rest of the world called them Loyale - it was just in the US that they didn't receive this badge. The name change was to facilitate the introduction of the Legacy in 1990. They didn't want any confusion of people thinking a Loyale was really a "Legacy GL" or something. EA81's were known as the Leone. GD