GeneralDisorder

*maybe* one of those square ones, but I kinda doubt it. Worth a try maybe. He's only in CA - last time I shipped an LSD there is was about $45 at the USP store. The knuckles weight less than a diff.... GD

"Hatchbacks" in the 80's meant the Acura Integra style - which if you look at one looks a lot like the "3 door" EA82. It really is a hatch, but since it was sold along side the EA81 hatch, they called it a 3 door coupe. GD

Not scarce (I could get you 50 sets (right and left) tommorow if you wanted them), and yes - largely boat anchors. The only reason you are having a hard time finding them is they NEVER wear out (not really possible since they have no moving parts), and so no one keeps them around for spares. Your's are only bad due to improper installation. GD

Many years are different, and most of the stuff can be eliminated. Just hook up the fuel suppy and return lines, the bowl vent (next to the bowl vent solenoid), and the EGR and Disty advance vac supply's on the bottom front of the carb. Block off everything else. GD

I've noticed that even with bad mains or rods if you have a new, sealed pump the pressure doesn't drop much since the sending unit is right there next to the pump. So you may be onto something with the oil supply. I have the stock pressure guage in the Brat, the Autometer in my wagon, and a Wall-Mart mechanical cheapy in my EA82 sedan, and they are all (more or less) in agreement on pressure.... seemingly regardless of the engine condition by the looks of the bearings in this one. I guess I'll see when the new bearings all go in and she's started. GD

Sorry - just joking - they don't really use the stuff anymore. Too many side effects. I was simply sugesting it to get rid of the "visions" of sparks jumping around in your cabin..... . It [was] generally perscribed for such halucinations - hearing voices - visions of sugar plums - etc. GD

Right - the crumple zones look ok. It's just that if you attempt to yard on the front end with a rack you'll pull the crumple zones out too. That was what I was refering to - not that they are damaged, but that they make it more difficult to repair the damage it's got. A front clip is definately in order for that one - you may only need the radiator core support, but the final say will come down to the frame rails, and how tweaked they are. It may not be much, but even 1/2" will make it really messy, and could damage the alignment and driveability. I still say get it - that's a good price. But beware - the current owner looks to have inspected the damage, and if it really were a slam dunk easy repair you would think they would do it, put the panels back on, and get 2000 for it.... GD

Front end looks pretty whacked - you are going to need a front clip from a wagon or something to make it decent again. No way all that structural will come back out straight. Too many crumple zones, and sheet metal with factory bends. As for the title, it won't make it worthless, but it will certainly hurt the value some - especially to those ebay types. You could find another Brat that's got a clean title but is wasted with rust and "transfer" the vin over (move the plate or change the dash, and cut out the section of the firewall and weld it in). Illegal of course, but it's not as if people don't do it. I guess there are also some states still where you can "wash" a title of it's brands. I hear Kentucky used to be that way - not sure if it is anymore. Sadly being an 86, it doesn't have the seats or the side-steps so may be worth a bit less due to that. It is the Marina Blue color which is nice (same as mine - I quite like it) GD

Aint that the truth! Mine has a hidden GPS unit. You might steal it, but me and my aluminium bat will find you..... GD

Cool - it's like a savings plan for a down payment on a house. I put money into my Brat, and I don't need a savings account. GD

Identical actually - except possibly for the brake rotors and calipers (vented vs. non - got changed mid-83), the strut top is turned backwards on the 2WD (it's marked which way it goes), the strut cartridge is non-adjustable, and the spring is different. As far as the tie rod, knuckle and all that it's the same. GD

Ya know - I looked for those (this was a couple years back) and no one could get them. Even tirerack.com was out of stock. IIRC they were on the cheap end of the scale so seemed like a good choice. GD

I feel for ya - best to find a deal on one out here, and ship it over. Shouldn't cost much frankly - 600 - 800 depending on the shipping company (maybe more now with gas - IDK). Or get a plane ticket and drive back in one - filled with parts. We have plenty - we won't miss a GL with a trailer full of parts. GD

The problem with the "block sealants" they sell is they aren't designed for a flat four engine. The last step of the process is to drain all the coolant and let the "stuff" cure for like 72 hours - it needs air contact to cure. But with the flat four, it's near impossible to get all the coolant out. You have to pull the drain plugs out of the engine block, and even then because all the passages are flat, the coolant just doesn't want to clear out. This obviously isn't a problem with an inline four, or a V style engine as the cylinders are up high where just draining the radiator will drain out the passages where the leaks are at. That, and the stuff is at best a temporary solution. If the gasket is far enough gone that a small hole has started, others will follow and the existing ones will just keep enlarging. I've tried the stuff with zero luck in the EA82 on two occasions now. Just clogged up a heater core on one, and didn't do anything at all on the other. On the other hand - I'm out of work right now - I have the tools, the time, and I just did another EA82 HG last week with the same problem. Runs like a top. PM if you want to work something out. The parts are only about $40 for both HG's, cam o-rings, and manifold gaskets..... GD

Yep - 82 and newer are internally regulated. GD

Apparently the Rex is like a 3/4 scale justy. They are very similar, but not the same. The Justy and Rex were made along side one another in Japan - Justy had a 1.0L, and the Rex is the 600cc. Our US Justy got the larger 1.2L GD

Yep - I've got a set in 205/75R14 with one flat tire, and another that has like 3 jerky sticks in it. I don't know what the deal is with them, but the sidewalls are definately weak in my experience - at least on the AT's. Oh - when I said the only "6 ply's" I could find I meant sidewall.... Don't like AT's myself - the tread pattern might as well be a street pattern for all the good it does around these parts. Good for desert racing from what I understand, but not much else it seems. GD

Those are the All-Terrains correct? When I was checking into tires, I almost went with the Wildcat EXT (the Mud-Terrian) till I found out it was only a 4 ply sidewall. I've been told by my local shwab that they are made by cooper, so very similar to the cooper Discoverer... The only 6 ply's I could find in the smaller sizes are the Interco Swampers, and the Hankook RT01's (what I have). Have to admit I've never had a puncture yet. I've seen three or four of the wildcat's with sidewall punctures - seems like a weak point on them. GD

Yeah - old coolant is the #1 cause of corrosion. Coolant should be changed bi-yearly *even* if it tests good. The zinc and other anti-corrosive properties actually "wear out" like the metal tabs on the hull of a ship. Even if the hydrometer says it's good, it needs replacement. I've seen a cast iron engine block with aluminium heads pull nearly 3 volts from bad coolant. In severe cases galvanic deterioration has been known to eat holes through the water jacket. GD

High dose of lithium perhaps?? Seriously tho - sounds like a grounding issue - the grounds on the older subaru's tend to not be very pretty. I would clean each ground connection you have, and also run a nice big 2 guage bit of welding cable from the engine block to the negative battery post. And possibly another one to the vehicle body. To combat corrosion of metal like that, you need a sacrificial metal to take the hit for you. Zinc is the prefered choice. You already have zinc in your coolant, so you may want to check your ground to the radiator. GD

I have an extra, and they are plentiful in the yards around here. Going rate at my local yard seems to be $16.... so if you want it, PM me. GD

Crimp the return line from the regulator while it's running with a guage attached in the supply line and you'll be able to watch the dead-head pressure of the pump. Mine was right at 55 psi. GD

The stock SPFI pump is capable of about 50 psi, but the regulator at the throttle body will step it down to 21. Anything that can put out 40-50 psi will work fine. I would probably go with the Ford unit if you intend to use a new one. Personally I just used the stock one from my donor and that worked great for me. GD

Probably head gaskets then. It's common. Just did one last week with the same issues/symtoms. GD

No, but in alaska, uncommon things happen. GD