GeneralDisorder

That's completely untrue. It's got nothing to do with the Weber. I've owned three stock subaru's with Weber's on them. 2WD I got 33 MPG, 4WD I got 28 MPG. Very consistent. As with anything you have to know what you are doing when you install and tune it. My lifted wagon with a Weber gets about 20 - 22 MPG. It has nothing to do with the carb - it's the same carb it had when it was 2WD and getting 33 MPG. The difference is in the tires, higher rolling resistance, and worse drag. Many people also forget that you have to compensate for the odometer being off (14% or so in my case) when you calculate miles traveled and use it for calculating MPG. GD

Heh - you wouldn't even be able to get those on your hatch without a lift. They may seem small to you, but those are about 29" tires. You would have to do a lot of beating and cutting to mount those WITH a lift. I have 5", and I'm running 28's with only minimal rubbing. Still had to cut and beat to get them on. AT's are useless - might as well be running street tires. The thread fills up with mud and turns them into a big slick mess. Good for desert racing - that's about it. GD

Tie rods simply can't change your camber - they can change the toe setting, but that is all. The camber will look weird if you have had it jacked up and haven't driven it yet.... or if the wheel is turned the bottom of the tire will tuck inward. Should be pretty straight up and down with the wheel pointing straight ahead. But again - tie rods can't change your camber. In fact, nothing can on a stock subaru - it's not technically adjustable. GD

Yeah - the turbo pistons are pretty burly. More so than the N/A ones it seems - people have blown the ring lands, and cracked pistons using N/A blocks (pistons too) with turbo parts. All the subaru rods I've ever seen were cast - but they are so short and stubby.... very tough units. GD

Check www.thepartsbin.com - rock auto often lists a lot of bogus parts that you have to sort through with half a mind on what the original looks like. XT's are the weird man out in the EA82 line, so anything that comes up "different" is often attributed to them. They even have a seperate section in my parts "quick reference"... alas it does not show tie rod ends. Sorry, I tried..... call the dealer and have them sort it out with their parts computers. Get an OEM part number and have it cross-referenced by your parts store. GD

No changes to the input shaft or throwout bearing are needed. I have an 82 trans in my lifted 84 actually. All you need is the flywheel, and an 84 4WD clutch disc and pressure plate. All the EA81 transmissions have the same input shaft - even the 2WD (and EA82 2WD's too - same trans). I actually pieced mine together using an 84 flywheel from the junk yard, and an 84 clutch setup I got from a friend.... Apparently, if you use the release bearing from a mid 80's or early 90's nissan pickup, you can also fit the EA82 flywheel and pressure plate (or XT6 ) and use the EA81 225mm disc... GD

Different sizes/wear on the tires will do this easily. Different brands of tires on any of the four will almost always do it due to differences in marked sizes versus actual manfactured diameter. Four brand new tires will almost certainly fix your problems. Even on hard surfaces if you are traveling is a straight line (with correct tires) you should be able to go in and out of 4WD with ease without touching the clutch at all. GD

Hhmmm - might be for an XT6 or something. That certainly doesn't sound right. Knuckles are the same on all GL's regardless of power or manual, so that wouldn't make any difference. GD

90 Loyale Turbo. They made a few with the RS badge. GD

Slipping would mean the cable is too tight (it's already too short in other words) - which is virtually impossible if no one has adjusted it...... time for a new clutch pack. GD

Probably was going for something like this. STi made a proper Forester.... we just didn't get them in the US. http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=41&article_id=8310 GD

My friend said a 30 gallon tank he figured was good for 600 miles or so. GD

US postal web site says about $70 to ship 40 lbs.... 4 to 6 weeks for delivery. Even at the going rate around here on the site of $100 that's still cheaper than you get them locally. And if you wanted a couple sets it probably would be more economical. GD

The mounts can really hurt the joints themselves, but not really be boots. Boots are usually a result of really thin rubber boots used by rebuilders. Or in the case of the passenger side the cat not having a heat shield. Get some GCK axles and be done with axles for a LONG time (Autozone sells em). http://www.gck.com/ Urethane boots are possible too - check into the VW aftermarket.... GD

Well - can't say about what was done to it by the tractor mechanic previous owner (no - really he was an honest-to-god tractor mechanic ), but it had excelent power the whole time I ran it. I could burn em in first and chirp em into second pretty easily. Top speed was well over 95. I personally adjusted the valves about 20,000 miles ago when I had .025" taken off the heads (there's a special adjustment for this situation), and I adjusted them again right before I pulled it on a sugestion that I may have not got them adjusted right that first time because of inflation issues due to the heads being off. Didn't change anything - the idle was still just as bad, and the knock never changed. Heads and valves look alright - no evidence of a problem there. Pushrods are all straight, etc. I pulled each plug wire with it running and it didn't make any difference in the knock. FSM points to the cam journals...... I don't know what I can do about that tho since they don't have bearings. I'm hoping it's not that or I'll have to swap blocks. Still gotta get some plastiguage so I can check the cam journals. GD

I haven't personally done the LPG conversion, but I know someone that has, and apparently it's really easy. They make LPG "carbs" that mount with the same pattern as the Weber we all know and love. He says his EA81 has just as much power as it had with the Weber and gasoline. I guess most of the cost was the tank and the lines - the carb itself was only about $50 - very simple device as LPG is a gas at atmospheric pressure. Have to run a bit larger tank as the mileage isn't as good, but that's offset by the lower cost of the fuel. Find a local place to you that specializes in LPG setups and they should be able to help you out. Cost was more than a weber as the tank and lines are not cheap, but the fact it will run at any angle is nice, and the system is so increddibly simple there is almost nothing that can go wrong with it. No fuel pump, etc. GD

If you are good with wireing it can be done, but as has been pointed out, it's a nasty mess of a harness, and it will be complicated by the fact that you will have to remove the SPFI portion of the DL/GL, the MPFI portion of the Loyale, and put the vehicle's harness back together using the MPFI computer control system. Plan out a couple weeks for that disaster. You'll have to change the fuel pump, entire exhaust system, engine cross-member (which includes removing and replacing the steering rack), as well as various other bits and chunks under the hood. No small peice of work.... with that much work to be done, it would be both easier, and much more powerful to do an EJ22 swap (135 HP, more reliable). It's actually less work as you still have the wireing and to a lesser extent the exhaust, but the engine cross-member doesn't have the be changed so no mucking with the rack or suspension parts. GD

About 100x easier to just swap the trans into the loyale. GD

Not by itself - just really noisy valves. Overheating is usually the 20 year old radiator, and crappy aftermarket thermostat's. Possible you had a leaking head gasket. It's not uncommon. GD

Did you ever adjust your valves? On solid lifter engines it's required every 15,000 miles.... GD

Not entirely true. Audi came with AWD in '80 (subaru didn't add the center diff till mid 80's), and the transaxle design was descended from the 4WD Kubelwagon of German army fame circa WWII. And in defense of Audi - they are still the first king of rally, and having worked on some of their newer stuff - it's amazing. The new S4 makes an STi look slow. GD

I doubt the tie rods are at fualt, and unless one took a direct hit on the curb, you probably are just seeing normal wear. They should be smooth and very tight - so tight it's hard to move them by hand. You'll see when you get the new ones. GD

Probably didn't break anything then - still check carefully. Subaru suspensions can take some severe punishment. I've seen several bent control arms - both from impacts with stuff on the street, and from landing on things off-road. Usually even with bent suspension parts, they might pull one way or another, but they don't usually have vibration problems - that's usually a bent rim or axle issue. GD

2 years old already? Seems like just yesterday. LoyaleFan hasn't logged in since January.... I'm betting he hasn't even got a subaru anymore GD

Probably need a new 02 sensor. Very much overlooked. They get slow with age. The rest of the fuel injection is pretty fool proof, but the 02 will exhibit the symtoms you sugest while still not setting an ECU code. The ECU can only sense when the 02 is out of range - it can't tell that the response time has decreased. Typically they only last about 50,000 miles before the degredation becomes severe enough to warrant replacement. Clogged cat's are fairly rare with the FI engines. Subaru's don't typically burn enough oil to clog one unless the PCV system is clogged for an extended period of time. GD