GeneralDisorder

Those numbers mean nothing to me - need part numbers. Probably right about the R and L. You can use any knuckles from an EA82 - which is all wagons, 3 door coupes and sedans from 1985 to 1989, and ALL Loyales from 1990 to 1994. You will not be able to use any parts from "another model" it will have to be an EA82 based vehicle. There should be plenty of them in the junk yards around you - and there are many board members in CA that may have some. If all else fails, I can easily get a set from the yards around here. Not light, so shipping wouldn't be cheap. The Knuckle is not a wear item - the problem you have is because of bad previous maintenance. I have actually never seen that happen - probably wasn't tightened down properly by someone. GD

$1 per gallon - so about when Clinton was last in office. Good times, good times. GD

Actually any EA81 or EA82 Turbo pump will work. GD

Wow - that's the like the twin of mine. Same year and color. Except I still need body work and paint. Gotta love the marina blue tho. GD

Looks like the mains are about .10mm oil clearance (possibly more on the center bearing - book max is .025mm), and the #4 rod bearing was pretty out of round - with a max oil clearance around .13mm. The horizontal surfaces of that bearing have actually begun to wear through the bearing surface to the softer metal underneath. Book max on the rods claims .10mm max but even that seems like a lot. At any rate all the bearings are obviously way out of spec - in the case of the mains 4 times over the max, and possibly more in places. Probably safe to say my knock was one of those.... So next step is to degrease the entire mess, and start the reassembly with my new parts. GD

Good thought - checked the thrust and there is no play there at all. Upon further inspection, the #4 rod bearing looks pretty wasted. So it's got bad mains, and one bad rod bearing - probably the source of my knocking. I'll get a measurement of that here shortly.... GD

Sounds like lifter tick (TOD) to me. CHANGE the oil and filter. Check for leaks and R&R the PCV system to make sure the engine isn't just drinking all your oil on left hand turns. GD

Get a brass drift punch and get to work. Don't need a press. Do a search for bearing replacement - it's been covered weekly for years on here. GD

Pressure plate and flywheel are most likely fine - just replace the disc itself. Only take about 2 hour, and you don't have to pull the engine even. Just remove the radiator, unbolt the engine - lift and pull forward. There is enough room to do everything with the engine in there. GD

Thread some 1/4" nylon rope into cylinder #1 with it at BDC. A dozen feet of rope in the cylinder will stop the engine from rotating safely and allow you to remove the pully with a breaker bar. Sticking things in the flywheel is crappy if they break, or fall into the bell-housing. And isn't possible with an auto. Incidentally, you need a BIG impact to remove the 22mm pulley bolt. My 1/2" impact can't do it. And besides that mess, you still need access to it in order to use the impact. I'm not usually in the mood to remove the radiator, grill, and AC evap core if equipped. To heck with that mess. GD

Sure will - oddly enough I've actually done that once. GD

Ok - closer inspection shows the front and rear bearings to be about the same - almost exactly 55.00mm on both. Crank being right around 49.90 that gives both around a .10mm clearance - far beyond spec. The center bearing seems to be the interesting one - my measurements of the bearing show it's right around 55.10mm. That gives the center bearing an oil clearance of .2mm. That may be the source of my knock right there.... what say you? GD

It's very tough to measure - my digital caliper only has accuracy down to .001", and to .01mm so..... the journals on the crank were pretty much all right around 49.90 - 49.91. There didn't appear to be much difference between the three. The bearings are a lot harder to measure, but the plastiguage seemed to indicate some were more worn than others - center and rear were definately not as crushed. Looked like the front was around .075mm clearance, and the rest were a bit more. Possibly as much as .1mm at the rear.... so maybe around .004"....... 4 thousandths cause a noticeable knock? These tollerances are maddeningly close Engine has a brand new oil pump, and new sender - showing 20 - 25 psi hot idle, but I was running 10w40 and sometimes 20w50 in it because I feared the mains were causing the knock. Lets call it 20 psi with 50 weight which would probably put it a bit lower than that with 30 weight - maybe in the 15 psi range. Considering the pump was new and OEM, I'm guessing that to be a little low.... GD

The o-ring is for the oil passage - nothing to do with coolant. Retorque should only be needed with OEM HG's, and even then it's after a break in period. It sounds like maybe you didn't get the manifold on tight - if you don't get them sealed properly they will leak into the intake and burn just like you describe. Also they will leak sometimes around the gasket and into the spark plug areas - there are drain holes in the heads where the coolant will run down underneath and look like it's leaking from the bottom. GD

You talking about the 2WD 5 speed? The EA82's used the same 2WD 5 speed as the EA81's thus the different clutch disc. I don't know about the XT6 tho - while that tranny would in fact bolt up, I'm not sure it would handle the output. GD

Ok - I finally got it torn down to where I can measure stuff (the wrist pin access plug under the water pump was giving me a hard time). I bolted it back together and measured stuff up with a digital caliper. The cam journals are spot on - no news there - the cam being iron and the case bearings being aluminium and all. The case looks good too - some slight wear but nothing bad, and nothing that looks too far out of spec. I think the strange edge wear is just casting problems, but they don't seem to be effecting engine performance, and the rest of the cam wear doesn't seem bad at all really. Looking closely at the wear pattern shows the brunt if the wear is actually happening on the opposite edge of the lobes, and the lifters look decent with only minor pitting. The mains aren't looking so hot. The crank looks to be about .04mm under the smallest spec - all of them are running about 49.91mm. Book calls for 49.957mm - 49.970mm. Looks like the bearings themselves are worn as well. All in I'm guessing the oil clearance to be somewhere around .075mm. Max allowable by the book is .025/.030mm.... What I'm looking for is the "source" of the knock. I want to make SURE I get the cluprit the first time. Who thinks that .075mm would give me the slight knock at warm idle (didn't do it cold, only warm after the oil thinned) that I could hear easily with the oil fill cap off, and feel in the shifter? The knock was a "deep" tone - not something you would expect from the cam or valve train as it didn't seem they would have the mass - it wasn't the light metallic knock of a rod, and it wasn't the tick of a lifter either. So what's the consensus? GD

Heads are probably not cracked - usually the head gasket itself blows out into one of the adjacent coolant passages, and causes the overheating. Cracked N/A heads are very rare. GD

If you can just see small cracks between the intake and exhaust valves that's OK - subaru actually put out a service bulletin about those - only worry if the crack extends into the exhaust passage and are leaking coolant (not likely on anything but the Turbo engines). General rule is if you can't get your thumbnail IN the crack, don't bother fixing it. It will just come back anyway. You can get by with just the head gasket - Fel-Pro all the way, don't have to retorque them - the cam carrier oil passage o-ring, and the manifold gaskets. Get those last two from the dealer - they are only a few dollars. GD

Vacuum actuators usually pull - it's difficult to design ones that push, so if that's needed it's generally performed outside the actuator with a lever setup.... GD

Pretty easy really - what is wrong with your heads? If they just need to be milled flat, then it's not terribly expensive - I usually pay about $35 per head for milling. GD

Do a pressure test - if you had the engine out, or pulled forward coolant might have just dripped down to that area. The non-turbo's don't usually crack like the EA82T's.... GD

Pug alloys are ok, but not a great idea for off-road.... older alloys of any kind are a bad idea for off-road really as they can crack, and when they get bent they are difficult to repair. If you bend a steel rim it's easy enough to pound it back and re-seat the tire to get you home. If you smack an alloy against a rock you will bend it and likely cause a crack - best case you have to search all over creation to find a matching replacement - worst case the crack fails catostrophically at freeway speed.... The chevy 6 lug rims can be had for $25 each brand new shiny.... But those pugs are alright for street, and you can always put those on your Brat... GD

Except in his case, if he goes to a pull-a-part he will likely see about 3 dozen soobs, many with the pump he needs. We here on the left coast have the pick of soobs. Last trip to the yard there was at least 30 EA82's in just one of my local yards, and 4 EA81's too. GD

Yeah - it almost seems that way to me as well - it's an '85.... I wonder if the quality control on the EA81's went downhill after the EA82's came out.... visualize a situation where all the important managment and quality control inspectors (the good ones anyway with mega experience) get shipped over to a new factory floor to jump start production of EA82's.... hhmmm - hard to say. I have the cam from an 89 hatchback engine out and while it does show some pitting, it doesn't have the severe edge deterioration the one from the Brat shows. GD

If you jack up the back of the car nothing will drip out. GD