GeneralDisorder

Been covered - use the search.

Huh? Both mains (primary and secondary) are 140..... what are you refereing to with "60"?? GD

You need to check your jets: 140/140 mains. 170/160 air bleeds 50, 55, or 60 idle will work - I like the 50 myself. GD

yeah - I got it. Been at the show, and cleaning up the damage from same. I have to hit a yard here tommorow or the next day and I'll pick up the stuff for ya. GD

Yeah - ATF draws moisture when it sits for a long time. That moisture causes all kinds of problems with the hydrualic valves inside the tranmission. And seals that normally get fluid when run dry out from lack of exposure to ATF. Etc. Manuals aren't so prone as the parts are big gears and bronze syncro's and stuff. Also 90 weight gear oil tends to stick to parts a lot longer than ATF does. And they don't have to depend on pressurized fluid running through them, and close tollerance hydraulic bits... It's best to stick with manuals for the older subaru's in general. The Auto's have real issues even if they haven't sat. Let em sit a while, and it's just agrivates an already troubled design. GD

Turbo's are not SPFI, they are MPFI Turbo. GD

The aftermarket pumps come with a washer for that exact purpose, to use or not depending on application. So it seems it's an OK thing to do. Has worked fine for me.... GD

It actually was - I thought the same till I ran across an 86 2WD GL-10 sedan at Foster the other day. SPFI - it was a little weird as far as wiring and such, but it was all there, and original. No vac can or anything. I still have doubts about 85 tho. I have seen an MPFI 85 2WD wagon though, so I think the SPFI replaced the MPFI in 86 as the standard for the 2WD high end non-turbo.... GD

Fuel pressure regulator is on the side of the throttle body - it's vacuum source is on the backside about 2" away from the regulator. There are two types of regulators - one is black, and one is gold. Both are interchangable. The hose from the regulator goes to the return line - the line from the throttle body goes to the fuel pump. Or are you asking about the fuel pump oreintation? The big end is the supply, and the small end is the pressure end that goes to the engine bay. GD

Yeah - the Prius CVT is nothing short of brilliant. It's just a planatary gear set mated to the engine, and a large electric motror/generator. Engine power or electric power can be split up anyway they want between the wheels. Giving you the option of full engine power, full electic power, or a balance - say using part of the engine power to the wheels, and part to run the generator to charge the batteries. It also allows coasting to charge the batteries through the same generator. But of course this has nothing to do with the ECVT of the Justy. Having sat for 7 years I would probably assume the transmission is already dead (maybe why it was parked?). 7 years is a LONG time for any sort of automatic to sit - especially that one. I just picked up a 3AT 4WD that sat for almost two years, checked fluids, etc. It drove about 15 miles before the 4WD clutch gave out and I had to tow it. GD

Unfortunately you are pretty much on your own this round. You have a Feedback Hitachi carb. There aren't many people that know anything about those, and although I have some experience with them I couldn't tell you what that is or why it's causeing a miss unless I was standing there to look at it. You'll have to trace the lines down and read up on the feedback system to find out what that is, and how it works. I highly sugest picking up an FSM because..... well the other manuals don't even attempt to cover the system. It's uncommon enough, and complex enough that it's only delt with in the FSM. Even then it's a real nightmare. To avoid hair-loss and premature aging, I sugest a Weber, or even better SPFI in the near future. GD

The ECU has a direct connection to the battery with a fusible link. This is provided so the ECU memory can track diagnostic codes for later use. It's like the memory on your radio.... GD

Electric Continuously Variable Transmission. It started as a snowmobile transmission I beleive.... and grew into the Justy back in the late 80's early 90's. Alas it is very sensitive to heat, and even well taken care of they have a near 100% failure rate somewhere around 80,000 miles and up. Sometimes less if mistreated. The transmission was eventually dropped from the Justy line for the last 94 model. It does live on in japanese micro cars, but the original design was not up to the weight of the Justy. It is totally unlike any normal "transmission". It's driven by electromagnets, and a metallic "dust" using some weird cone shaped things. It's a real disaster inside, and it was so complex that it's not even dealer serviceable. They can only replace them. Unfortunately the replacement transmissions are impossible to find, and when you can get one the cost is close to $5,000 for a NOS or factory rebuilt unit. Far more than the car is worth. GD

Besides the ECVT being a ticking timebomb of complete self-destruction...... oil pumps are also a problem. Usually what killed most justy's. But the ECVT will get you before the pump probably. 7 years? I give that transmission 1000 miles or less before you are stranded. GD

I found out the weakness of the reverse gear's the hard way at the show this weekend. Blew mine completely in the mud pit. Luckliy I didn't have to reverse on the trip home. The problem (according to somone that's had them apart a number of times) is that the gear doesn't fully engage because the shift linkage is out of alignment. The shifter can also push the gear too far off the far end. The reverse set is a straight cut gearset, and when it's run without being fully engaged like that it will wear the edges of the gear teeth, and eventually strip the gear set. The 5 speed's are a lot better - not because their gearset is different - but because the linkage is superior. GD

Not sure about the MPFI, but I know on the SPFI, connecting the battery backwards will immediately destroy the ECU. There's actually a warning about this in the FSM. GD

Yeah - I doubt you will be able to find anyone that carries those - the dealer does not service CV's - they only replace them so it's unlikely they even have a part number for those. A junk yard would be your best bet for those. GD

DOH! No, no, no. That's not how it's done. Take the inner control arm bolt loose (14mm on the engine cross-member), and the sway bar link (12mm, and rubber bushing). Pull on the rear of the wheel - it's very easy and the axle will just drop off the trans (once the pin is out). GD

right - you don't need to burn it all - only enough to overheat. You are losing coolant somewhere - it could be the bypass hose on top of the pump, but likely you would see the dripping. Often times the pump's fail as a result of running low on coolant - the seals get hot and dry and crack open. GD

You mean the retaining wire on the cup? You should DEFINATELY replace that. If you don't sometime you will be turning sharply and come off at curb or something and the joint will come apart. It can happen. GD

Yes - you could just put the hose clamp on with the axle in place. I was just assuming you would want to clean up the mess, and the rubber should be clean and free of grease where it meets the joint. But the clamps will do the job. I have used them on my lifted wagon - even in the rear where I have all suspension lift and modified axles. Been though the mud pit at the show, tall thick brush, etc. No problems. IF you can get them, a marine boat supply would have the stainless steel clamps with the rounded edges. A normal 1/2" wide clamp works fine, but if you can find some, the older VW bug and ghia boots used some really nice 1/4" wide hose clamps for their boots. That's where I got the idea BTW. GD

Heck - my 4 speed's do that while wheeling in low range up steep hills. The oil drains to the rear of the trans, and the straight cut gears whine like that. If your's does that on the flat and level, I would say you need some decent oil as it's not doing it's job well enough. I use redline - they have a formula for older transmissions that helps the syncro's too. GD

Once it gets past the seal, the grease is shot in the bearing, so it's not long before it's a gonner. GD

That's BS - find another autozone. SubaruJunkie just bought some a few weeks ago, and I bought one no more than 4 months past.... I wouldn't touch some "duralast" crap. A board member at the show was on his 2nd "duralast" alternator, and it was already making horrible electronic squeal - only 2 days old. I would ask them what the core charge is for... that makes no sense because GCK certainly doesn't want it back. What are they doing with your core? GD

Not usually the case - if it takes an hour to go through enough coolant to start overheating, then the "cloud" wouldn't be obvious at all. I've been through this more times than I can remember. A little overheat after a water pump failure can easily turn into head gaskets on 20 year old EA82's. Intake manifold is also possible - I've had them so bad that it looked like I had water mixing with my oil in the valve covers, and actually did have a small amount of steam in my exhaust. Barely enough to be noticed by the trained eye though. GD