GeneralDisorder

Strange - all I've ever seen are the Hitachi units with the screw on caps. What's the "other" unit look like? GD

You'll need the EJ-EA adaptor plate, flywheel has to be drilled to accept the EJ crank. Tons of wireing, fuel pump and lines upgraded, funky radiator hoses..... It's been done - do a search on "EJ conversion" and you'll pull some stuff up. It's no slam dunk that gets completed in an afternoon, but it's possible. Unless the car is REALLY nice or you just like projects..... not really worth the effort when you could just drive the imp. GD

All mine have been 32/36 DGV's, but the DFV or the Holley/Weber 5200 (motorcraft rip-off DFV from the pinto's and capri's and such) will all work. There is a brand new kit sold for the EA82 that comes with the adaptor plate and all that junk - it's around $400 though. My last one I did for ~$200 - used carb ($80), complete rebuild kit, changed some jets, adaptor plate ($40 by itself), and changed to the electric choke as it was a water style. SPFI is better tho, and I just got a whole parts car for $100 GD

All the crank angle disty's are Hitachi. Subaru only used one style of CAS disty for all it's FI engines. Anything for SPFI, MPFI or Turbo will work. GD

I've seen some that were pretty wasted - presumably from being exposed to exhaust gasses. It will literally eat the threads right off of them, and I've had heads that didn't want to come off without a fight because of all the carbon around a few of the studs/bolts. GD

I have never bought either one from the dealer. Doesn't look to me like you could take the spring out, but then I tossed all my Hitachi carbs and parts in a dumpster about 6 months ago. I washed my hands of those damn things. I converted all three of my rigs to Weber's and SPFI (soon to ALL be SPFI). If you can get the choke housing, it will likely be only slightly cheaper than a whole rebuilt carb . I think I saw a receipt for one once that was over $100 for the choke assembly. Heck - a new one for my Weber is around $35, and it's not a fancy unit at all - just a bit of plastic with a spring in it. So being it's a dealer only part, and it's a fancy aluminium thing, with a choke pull off doo-hickey on the side..... I'm sure "rape me" is in full effect. GD

The problems I forsee are both the feel, and the interface. The feel part others have covered. The interface is going to be difficult - how do I select 1st gear from 5th? Having to smack the down paddle 4 times would suck, and having to operate the clutch by foot? No I think if you are going to do it you will at least need to eliminate the clutch completely. Retrofit a hydraulic clutch on there, and servo that too. I've seen some toyota's with small hydraulic actuators that should be easy to retrofit. And instead of paddles, go with a seperate button for each gear - one for each finger on an ergonomic grip somewhere.... To get the kind of speed you need, you will probably have to go hydraulic with a TON of psi. Probably well over 1000 psi to get the system to move fast enough. GD

Read post #2 by me: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60928&highlight=EA82+choke GD

I've torn down a few engines now, and I've not seen any thrust surface wear. The mains and rod bearings wear, but the thrust sufaces don't seem to. Not to say it's impossible, but it's at least rare. Easy enough to test - try to push your crank in and out. Likely you won't get any play from it. Clutch adjustment has nothing at all to do with the thrust bearing. The transmission input shaft floats in the clutch disc, and in the pilot bearing. It is free to move and so would absorb any movements of the assembly anyway. It is this same effect that allows the flywheel to be resurfaced and used many times - ie: slight changes in the position of the disc and pressure plate relative to the transmission input shaft are not important. GD

Probably have to get some new GCK axles, and then change the DOJ cup on them. I'm betting you can get brand new DOJ cups from somewhere - maybe call up that place in Florida. I doubt that GCK would do anything custom. They are just a huge OEM manufacturer - they don't rebuild axles, they just make new ones somewhere in china. GD

You might be able to weld a nut to the end and twist it out.... this has the added advantage that it will heat the bolt and keep the heat localized to prevent damage to the block. If it's so stuck that you actually broke it though.... I say it's probably not comming out easily. At this point you might consider taking the block to machine shop that has the proper tools. I'm in agreement - "easy outs" are TEH SUCK for the metal. Ok for a woodworking shop, but definately should be banned from all metalworking environments. GD

There were two *brands* of carbs used on the EA81. Hitachi, and Carter/Weber (no - it's not the cool weber, it's a single barrel with a lot of problems). Each of those had two different setups - one setup for the electronic feedback (for California), and one setup for the non-feedback without the computer. The carbs are jetted differently to accomidate computer control, and if you remove the computer system, they will run extremely rich. You can tell the difference in the two types by the ECU under the dash, and the duty solenoids on the manifold. In his pictures I can see one of the duty solenoids, so I know what he's got. Just looking at the engine bay will not immediately ID the type as they all use the same kidney bean air cleaner, and the Hitachi's look very similar except for the extra hoses, duty solenoids, two-prong CTS, and the EGO in the y-pipe. GD

Interesting - I've not warped a set yet. I had not thought this to be a problem with the EA81 brakes..... well of course you *could* warp almost anything given the proper circumstances, but I drive my stock Brat pretty hard and haven't had any problems. I've always taken my stock rotors in and had them turned - way I figure if they are warped, then once they are turned they should be more difficult to warp a second time.... just a thought. Now I've also seen the pads wear unevenly on many of the ones I've taken apart. I think due to worn calipers or sliders. Any evidence of that? The pads wouldn't be as efficient disipating heat maybe? GD

Sure - increase your insurance, and have a nice fat monthly payment. You'll be poorer for it in the end. Spend your money on some tools, and some shop manuals. GD

Nope. Not even close GD

So what did that cost? GD

Nope - have to open it up. Those specs are proper base jetting for a subaru (plus tons and tons of other small engines). It will run very well with excelent mileage. You wouldn't have to change these unless you are racing or modifiying your cam or something. GD

Those are just the idle jets. I'm refereing to all the jets in my original post. You don't need a secondary idle jet - often they are the same as the primary though. GD

After you time the belts you need to stab that disty in. Put the engine at #1 TDC (0 on the timing marks of the flywheel), and slide the disty in with it pointing at the #1 spark boot. As for timeing the belts - my method is drivers side up, passenger side down, and put both belts on. Done. No rotating or anything. You can do it that way, but I prefer to do it without rotating - it's quicker. GD

Yes - thanks for not hijacking, and thanks agains for searching GD

"you rolls the dice, you takes your chances" You know not what you speak - the Justy is transverse. But yes, I know of a couple that have been converted. GD

I've considered using the EA82 SPFI pistons, or maybe the carb pistons. The carb ones are 9.0:1, and the SPFI are 9.5:1. Start milling the heads, and things get complicated. The SPFI ones might actually be too much with milled heads and such. Near as I can figure, with milled heads and EA71 pistons I'll be running close to 9.5:1 anyway. All things considered, I no longer consider the EA71 pistons to be much of an "upgrade". The compression increase is extremely slight. They are about .020" taller than the EA81 pistons. The downside is the ring lands are thinner. I'm not planning any forced unduction for this engine I'm building, and I've already got the pistons and rings so I'm going to use them. Next time I'll probably try out the SPFI or EA82 carb pistons, but this round it's too late to change the plan now. GD

Weber right? I routinely have to clean mine when off-roading. It will start acting weird cause the air bleeds are prone to getting junk in them. Just rev it up, and cover the intake with a rag. If that doesn't work, try spraying carb cleaner directly into each air bleed to clean them out. GD

Yep - looks like EA82 wagon wheels. GD

Do not adjust the clutch "tight" like you are intending. You will wear out the clutch release bearing. This is not a race car, and is not intended to release right off the floor. It should release where the cable is properly adjusted. That means the release bearing not riding on the pressure plate fingers. There will be a second cable for the hill holder that keeps the clutch "released" so the bearing doesn't ride on the pressure plate when not in use. GD