GeneralDisorder

The relays under the drivers kick panel mounted to the steering column of every EA81 and EA82 soob will work the same. That's what I usually use, but BMW's and Jag's are rare in the yards here. GD

How about reading the whole post? Isn't that why you dug up it's grave in the first place? GD

I'm sure they are, but I really don't have a lot of use for one. I've got alternate ways of taking care of most of that sort of thing. While it would be useful, the cost would probably outweigh my personal benefits. GD

And what evidence do you have to sugest that? That's not a terribly common failure, and usually when the turbo's go you start burning oil as well. It *could* be a lot of things. But being the intake gaskets were recently replaced makes them suspect. Cheap gaskets, and improper torque are very common with the intake gaskets. GD

IIRC, you replaced the starter? I've encountered this problem *mostly* with bad ignition switch wireing. The starter could also be at fualt, but I've always been able to fix the problem with a relay in the crank circuit. Any relay will work, yes. GD

There's a lesson for ya - pay THEN troubleshoot. I usually just tow them away so the seller can't watch me do my magic. GD

Mine has been welded for going-on two years now. I've snapped a few rear axles, but not since I went to the deeper EA82 joints on my EA81. If it's welded correctly it will snap the axle long before you are in danger of breaking the diff welds. I welded the spider gears to each other at 8 locations using a grade 8 bolt as filler jammed between the gear teeth. Then welded the spiders to the carrier as well. That's a total of 16 welds. I can't even imagine what it would take to break it, and I'm 100% sure the axle will break first, and if that doesn't break, the diff stub would twist off. GD

$190 for a crank kit? IIRC, Shadow had the one I bought from him done for $150. That was turned, with new undersized main and rod bearings to match. Looks real pretty. Sadly he never had a chance to use it as the engine it was to go in (EA81T) was destroyed in a garage fire. Needless to say I got a good deal on it Heads are usually around $70 for milling (Turbone has tax too) around here. Maybe a little more for guides, but I would say you most likely don't need those. Probably just stem seals. I would say you don't need a hone if you can see the factory cross-hatching. A simple bottle brush swipe will do for seating the new rings. 5 strokes with the block in a parts washing tank full of solvent. Ring sets are about $50 for the chrome variety. Go with ONLY the Fel-Pro gasket set. Cost is a little more, but the gaskets are superior. Then get the intake, exhaust, oil pump, oil pan, and rocker cover seals from the dealer. GD

It does actually - the EJ engines have bolts holding the cam bearings in don't they? And not a problem on the EA81 as the cam bearings are split with the case. GD

No - it's a coil of "resistor wire", soldering it will destroy it easily, and even if you got a "glob" of solder on the wire you would just create a hot spot that would burn through virtually instantly. I'm sure Ed probably has had a hard time finding these, but I've owned 5 EA82's at various times, never had one fail, and when I did go looking for one (I accidentally destroyed it while cleaning out a mouse nest), I snagged about 3 that were all perfect as well. I grabbed enough of them that I would hopefully get one or two home in one peice, and installed without breaking it. They tend to be rather fragile. But emperical evidence sugests that they survive well here in OR, but apparently not in WA. GD

Never heard of it. Probably cheap aftermarket. Not OEM unless it's got the fuji logo on it. GD

Yeah - the internal edges of the gasket "melt" into the carb passages - namely the accelerator pump areas. Makes em act weird. GD

I've heard that as well from other threads. The EA81 does not require this as the rocker arms are fully adjustable (a "leftover" trait of the EA81's solid lifter heritage). The Delta web site shows pictures of the welding proccess so I'm sure that's part of the procedure. Why the shimming is needed I don't know for sure. GD

Wheel bearings - probably. Stumble - either vacuum leak or carb needs rebuilding. GD

That's what delta does - they use a spray welder to build up the lobes, and then grind them down to the selected pattern. But Delta knows what they are doing, and their multiple step process is designed for camshaft regrinding. They harden it, balance it, and there are several other steps involved that make their process superior than that of a "normal" machine shop. Pretty much all they do is cams, rockers, valves, etc. Very good work IMO. Oh - and you don't even have to take off the timing gear off. They do that for us at no charge which is nice on the EA81 as getting that pressed-on gear on and off is a pain. GD

If you search around on this board you may come across a few posts about people that have made their own resistor pack from off the shelf electronics. More reliable, and cheaper. But actually I find that these don't seem to fail so much in the regions where the temps don't get too low. Here in OR, I rarely see these fail. It does happen, but most I find at the junk yard are good. GD

They are fairly rare, and parts are extremely difficult to find. 70,000 is a LOT of miles for a 360. They were awefully slow, and so weren't driven much generally. It's common to see them with less than 50,000, and sometimes a lot less. Worth - depends on condition. Showroom might bring well over $10,000 to the right buyer, but likely it's not in that kind of condition. GD

I've had aftermarket intake gaskets fail catostrophically. The dealer ones are metal and very strong, while aftermarket ones are cardboard, and once they soak up some coolant often they will just blow right out the side, and create a HUGE coolant leak. I had one go after lasting about 9 months. Same situation - started overheating, and a gigantic cloud of smoke from both the tailpipe and engine bay. The heads do warp if overheated, but that's an easy fix - just have them milled straight again. Usually costs about $30 per head. I really don't know what your mechanics problem is. Besides if he really new his stuff, he would have at least offered to check those manifold gaskets. GD

You can swap just the foam and cover easily. Just undo the hog-rings, and replace them with zip ties on the new seat's frame. GD

Yeah - the EA82's don't have bleeders on the MC (weird, since the EA81's do...), but they still sometimes need to be bled. Basically crack each line in turn and pump till you get a good flow from them. That's how I've always done it. GD

Frankly, you can eliminate almost all of those vac hoses while still retaining the original Hitachi. The feedback system does require a few more, but even that can be simplified if you just understand how things work. And if you use a non-feedback carb, all you need is the manifold vacuum to the heater controls in the cabin, the vacuum advance for the distributor, the EGR (unless you eliminate that too, which can be done), and the choke pull-off. The other lines are not required, but it does take some knowledge to remove them, or reroute them. GD

Just check them first. Usually milling them once is enough. They don't tend to warp the second time around. But always check with a good metal straight-edge, and a feeler gauge. GD

Delta does a quality job, and their grinds are the best option as they are tested, and known to work well with the USDM EA81's. Using other stuff is possible - I've heard good things about the RAM performance stuff, but the cost will probably be similar if not more, and they are usually acustomed to the aircraft engines that are meant to run at high RPM (6,000+). For low end torque, the Delta 252 RV Torque grind is most appropriate. They have other grinds for high RPM, but I wasn't interested in those so you would have to call for details. GD

Ask around on the board here - maybe in the wanted section, or make a new post here in old gen. I know if you were around here I would say drop by on a saturday and likely you would go home with that fixed, and maybe a few extra parts too. Lots of us crazy subaru types have small welders. GD

As long as you don't weigh 350 lbs, that's an easy weld. Anyone halfway competent with a small MIG box could make that stronger than new again. GD