GeneralDisorder

Has anyone asked Delta what the size of the shims should be? This shouldn't be hard to figure out if you know what the differences between the stock cam and ground cam are for height mins/max's. Someone there should be able to tell you *exactly*, in thousandths of an inch, what the thickness should be for your grind. This should eliminate the trial and error approach at least. After thinking on it, dimes would vary quite a bit in thickness - different production lines, and they are stamped rather than machined. But I would think that as long as you didn't go too thick (past the oil inflation passage in the head), the lifter should self adjust to correct height as long as you install it "tight". Probably would be beneficial to just use all new lifters. Delta quoted me $7 each for new lifters, but I didn't end up ordering any for my EA81. They are different lifters, but he didn't look up anything - just gave me an off-the-cuff answer of "about $7 each", so I couldn't imagine it would be much different. GD

Theoretically, yes. But practically speaking no as the 9 volt doesn't have enough juice to push even close to 1 amp through you. *maybe* if you stuck it on your tongue, and stripped all the skin off your legs. GD

Don't try that one at home. Standing barefoot in as little as 12" of salt water.... as little as 1 amp will kill you if it goes the right direction. Voltage doesn't mean much. 1 volt and 1 amp can kill easily. Stun guns are VERY high voltage, and low current. Coil output is probably in the 20,000 to 40,000 volt range. GD

First impression of the thread title I guess. GD

EA series are driven off the acc. belts. EJ series are driven off the timing belt. GD

By "hatch struts" I figured he meant the gas struts that hold the tailgate up Which is it? GD

Rav 4's suck, but even he could have gone through if he aired down. GD

Nope. Brat's don't have struts for one thing - neither do "sedans" - you must be talking about the EA81 hatch or the EA82 3 doors. Wagons are shorter than hatch struts.... and are you talking EA81 or EA82? Makes no difference as they are all different lengths. You can buy the things brand new anyway. GD

It's not, it's driven off the (2) accesory belts. GD

Why would you use a Turbo harness for a non-turbo engine? That just doesn't make sense to me..... what's the reason? I would like to know. The EJ18 is by far the most simple of the EJ wireing harnesses.... and the JDM engines tend to be a lot simpler for emissions and such. On the other hand the EJ22 N/A is closer in HP to the JDM EJ20, so might be more applicable to use it's ECU. Maybe a combination of the two. I really don't know, but I'm sure over in the new gen forum there's folks that do.... GD

The 4EAT is a great tranny, and is still being used to this day in the new ru's. The "dreaded" one is the 3AT. Frankly, just part it. It's not worth beans. GD

Actually, no. The trim is simply used to expand the rubber gasket to make it seal. There are no sealants used on the EA81 windsheilds - it relies on the rubber of the gasket, and the smooth painted lip that it surrounds. Removing the trim will get you nowhere as there is nothing under it but rubber. You may be able to inject some sealant under the lip of the gasket where the leak is located, but likely it will not hold. The water is probably getting in near the top and running down. Most likely it has rusted the lip under the gasket and this is the source of your leak. It's best to just go to a windsheild shop and have it taken out, and reinstalled after cleaning and treating the area with POR15. GD

You would be perfectly safe unless you were standing in ocean salt water with bare feet.... GD

Yes, it's either broken, improperly adjusted, etc. You need to get inside and look at it's operation. Sould close with a light *snap* when it's cold, as you pump the gas (or manually operate the throttle) one time. Pumping the gas is absolutely neccesary on carbed engines. It both serves to "set" the choke, and to enrich the mixture with a few squirts from the accelerator pump. Fuel injection automatically enriches the mixture using the computer. Anywhere from 2 - 5 pumps depending on how cold it is. There's no manual lever - it's an automatic (electric) choke. GD

Check your fuses. And there is an ingitor mounted to the coil bracket. Sometimes those go. Sounds like a fuse or something. You need to check spark, and coil power for starters. GD

Choke. GD

None... in the US. Nope - requires the same adaptor plate as any other EJ. GD

The cool thing about the hydro lifters is you don't have to worry about the thickness of the shim. It just needs enough to take up the slack, and a little more is OK just to be safe. I might actually use a quarter as the EA82 lifters are pretty good sized. Either that or some arcade nickles. No cash value on those! GD

Part of the problem is the ECU and wireing. I'm sure the wireing is similar between the EJ18 and the EJ20, but some work would be needed obviously. Maybe it would be possible to get the JDM wireing and ECU as well. That would be ideal. Or just build a mega-squirt for it using an EJ18 harness. GD

He's right - people ordering custom ground cams and intending to install them themselves are pretty much responsible for asking questions. They aren't going to offer up this information - besides I doubt they are intimately familiar with soob engines, and just assume you know to ask for them. These guys grind all sorts of stuff every day, and they know "general" guidelines on how to fit cams. Thus the sugestion to use dimes. That's a cool idea anyway. GD

The spacers under the lifters aren't going to be moving at all (so can't do a thing to your lifter bore), so yeah, change actually seems like a good choice. It's very precisely machined unlike most cheap chinese washers. Damn good idea IMO. Use the dimes. The guys at Delta know their stuff. GD

The JDM EJ20 is the better deal on there $450 for a 150 HP EJ. Nice. Use the extra $100 for the adaptor plate. GD

Shouldn't be any cutting involved, and the only welding will be the carrier bearing, and it's pretty minor. But you *could* also make a single peice driveshaft like many of the EA81 crowd have done. But welding a little bracket in place is cheaper than a $150 for a new driveshaft. Really it's not as bad as we make it sound, but it's not something I would sugest to anyone that doesn't have another transportation source. The car will be out of commision for a couple weeks probably. There's always hang-ups, and such - waiting for parts, trips to the junk yard, etc. I could easily do one in a couple days if I had all the parts, and didn't have to work, and really worked full time on the job, but that's not the usual way it works. Usually it's a couple weekends. GD

Well - pretty sure you'll need shims with *any* grind. As previously mentioned the cam won't go into the case if it's enlarged, so they just regrind them without adding metal. Thus all grinds need shims on the EA82. At least that's how it sounds. GD

You have to get the shims from delta. Theys *should* have informed you of this. It won't work without the shims. Your rockers could fall off or get jamed up due to the looseness. Basically the shims just go under the lifters in the head. GD