GeneralDisorder

That's your problem - you only gave the battery a surface charge. Hook a charger up to it overnight. If it continues to drain then the battery could have been damaged by running it dead too many times. GD

What is wrong with your Nissan? Anyway, axles are not the issue that everyone makes them out to be. The problem is with "rebuilt" axles that really are not. Older subarus especially run axles at very high angles, and poorly or improperly "rebuilt" axles will fail very quickly. The GCK brand new axles can be special ordered through autozone, and all the older subaru's seem to get about 100,000 out of a new axle. I've been using them for years now, and haven't changed a single one since I started using them. If a quality product is installed properly, it will easily go 100k or more. I would recommed a manual transmission, 2WD legacy. Great gas mileage, and the EJ22 is bulletproof as is the manual tranny. Anything older than that and you are looking at low HP, timing belt/head gasket problems, etc. While there are still gems out there, and when properly maintained or repaired the older ones are quite reliable, it's still a 20 year old car, and you are better off with the newest car you can afford if you are disabled. The EJ22 is argueably the best engine subaru has ever made, and the 5 speeds are great transmissions. Far and away an early 2WD legacy will be your best bet for low maintenance, cheap repair and operation. GD

Yep - push-button on-demand 4WD. Just like a truck. You can see the orange button on top of the shifter in the picture of the interior. 94 Imp could be either - you will have to ask or look under it. In 96 Subaru did away with all 2WD vehicles, but prior to that they made 2WD Imp's and Legacy's. If there is a rear diff under it, then it's AWD. They did not make part-time 4WD anymore after the Loyale. GD

Depends on the model - feedback carbs used a single sender with two spades on it grounded through the manifold. One spade for the dash, and one for the ECU. SPFI/MPFI/Turbo have a seperate sending unit variously located, but usually around the thermostat housing (I know that's where it is on the SPFI). GD

I second the cam and crank seals. I've had old cam seals just pop out of the cam case on their own when the PCV system gets plugged up. And yes - the Pugeot 505's did have 15" versions availible, but the 390 metrics are nearly the same size. It should say on the rim which it is. GD

EGR light comes on every 60,000 miles based on the odometer. It does not indicate a fualt (in fact the system has no way of finding a fualt in the EGR). It indicates the EGR system should be "serviced", which means take the valve off and clean it - then put it back on. Or just reset the light and forget about it since you don't need the EGR anyway. There's some wires under the dash - green connectors and blue ones I think. Whichever ones are not connected, switch them. It will be a two prong green or blue to another two prong green or blue. The ECS light indicates a fualt has occured with the feedback carburator. Take the kick panel down from the drivers side dash, and read the codes from the computer when the light comes on. They will be indicated by the usual long and short flashing of the 02 monitor lamp on the ECU...... or just rip the stupid thing out and put a Weber on it. You will be 100% frustrated by the feedback Hitachi. Guaranteed to give you grey hair. GD

You'll be fine - the subaru PS systems are almost bullet proof. Crack the high pressure line off the pump (the 17mm one) and run the engine till it drains the system. Then refil with ATF. Oil and ATF mix readily, so no worries. 10w30 just isn't a hydrualic fluid, so probably wouldn't work well in the pump for long-term (cavitation and such), but I wouldn't hessitate to use it in a pinch. GD

5 speed has a completely different linkage, and they usually just need some cheap bushings from the dealer when they get sloppy. If you want to fix the 4 speed linkage, there's a couple ways, but none have really proven to work well in the long term. I've given up with them as I run 5 speeds in all mine now. But if you really want to be a contortionist you can drill out the shift rod in the trans and put a bolt in there. Along with cutting a slot for added clamping force into the sides of the shifter sleeve you can usually get them tight for a while. It's just a bad design tho, and they always get loose again. Do a search on here for "shifter slop" and you will find a number of posts by me and others on the 4 speed linkages. The bad linkage is half the problem with the 4 speed - it contributes to reverse gear failure, and it plays a part in that 3rd gear syncro problem too. Kit includes a custom cross-member that bolts to the EA81 body, and the EA82 5 speed transmission, and also allows it to clear the transmission tunnel without rubbing or requireing you to beat the tunnel out for clearance. Also comes with customized shift linkage to adapt to the differences in length of the 5 speed (whole transmission is shorter) vs. the 4 speed. You send him parts of your old linkage, and the 5 speed linkage and he will work them into the proper sizes. It will look 100% stock, you will just have 1 extra gear. 5 speeds are all over the place - any 85-89 GL wagon with a manual will likely have what you need. GD

That statement, along with another you made about the clutch releasing high (meaning all the way to the floor is certainly released) is definately pointing to failing input shaft bearing or serious out of whack pilot bearing. The trans input shaft is binding and it's not able to release the shift cog. I would guess you will end up replacing that tranny. GD

Yeah - the throw out bearing is a possiblilty, but they usually make noise when the clutch is engaged. I would suspect the pilot bearing or the intput shaft bearing. But everything in the clutch area should be checked. I've had release bearings (throw out) make a ton of noise, but usually only when you engage the clutch. GD

Sounds like perhaps the input shaft bearing is going. GD

Sounds like it got wired to the neutral switch on the side of the trans... that one is grouned in every gear but open in neutral. GD

The backing plate is not cast, beating it will just bend the i$ht out of it. TWIST it, and beat on the caliper mount (the thick part) to get it to turn. Once you get it turning, work it back and forth till you break up the rust and can pull it off. GD

EJ22 would be the best bet - Turbo's are a headache and a half. The engine will not "just bolt in". It does not match the transmission, and requires an adaptor plate, as well as drilling the flywheel from the old engine to match the EJ crank bolt pattern. Custom plumbing for the radiator, and some slight modification to the engine cross-member. Custom exhaust is needed as well. Then there's the wireing.... and there's no shortage of that. You need the entire engine control harness and computer from a donor car, and no small amount of soldering, fitting, and routing of wires. Really it's quite a mess, but it can and has been done. It's no simple weekend job - don't think it is. Again - transmission will NOT be AWD. It will be 4WD, and can only be used on "slick" surfaces. Just like a truck. If you put it in 4WD on dry pavement, the wheels will bind as there is no center differential. Swapping in an AWD transmission is possible, but if you are going to that trouble, unless you are a real enthusiast, then get a Legacy. GD

92 Loyale will not be AWD, it will be part time 4WD. Rust is the major factor where you live - if it's in good shape on that account, $750 isn't unreasonable. It's a manual yes? I would pass up an automatic - the 3AT's aren't the greatest for longevity over 200k - especially with unknown history. GD

I would like to see what the difference is on faceplate C from faceplate D. I've always used the EA82 adaptors in the EA81's as that's all I've ever found.... Sadly being you are in Canada, I think shipping might be more than just $5, but if not, I would take C. GD

Yeah - we are filthy with them. Well - we used to be anyway. Few years back I remember going to the yard one day and finding at least two dozen EA81's. Back then EA82's were rare in the yards, and Legacy's didn't exist at all. Now it's the EA82's that are comming out my butt (I've got four right now - last yard trip they had about 30), and Legacy's are common too. They have (had maybe) 3 EA81's at my closest yard last week. GD

EA82 ones probably could be - but there's a couple bolts on the EA81 manifold that I'm pretty sure you couldn't get to without pulling it. But I might be wrong. I too tried this a long time ago. The bolts on the EA82 manifold are on the sides, and two of the the EA81 bolts are on the bottom where a wrench will not fit. GD

Yeah - I agree with that. My information has always shown the impacts to be WAY more effiecient in reverse, so I've never put much faith in their tightening ability. But then my air source isn't as good as it could be either. GD

Watch your oil pressure and buy an extra pump - you'll need it if you want to keep that JY engine on the road. GD

Replace the sender first - sounds like it's dead to me. But before you do anything, take a reading with a REAL mechanical guage to verify. GD

Probably dirty coolant. Flush the system. GD

Even a 500 ft/lb impact will not come close to removeing the axle nuts if torqued properly. I would guess you got it to maybe 50 lbs when you installed it, and the loose wheel wore out the cone washer and made the whole assembly looser. Also they sometimes just don't go 100% tight the first time. You should get a BIG breaker bar and stand on it a couple times. Impacts are not going to get the thing anywhere even close to 150 lbs. (unless you got one of those BIG 1" impacts, and an ocean of air to run it with). The impact can APPLY a force equal to a few hundred pounds of force (550 in the case of my 1/2" version), but all that torque goes straight to the sides of the nut. Think about how much force a 200 lb individual like myself can apply to that same nut with a 24" torque wrench.... it's not even in the same ballpark. NEVER use an impact for things like that. They are good for lug nuts, and not much else except loosening. GD

Rebuild the carb or buy a weber. GD

The "pickup coil" is the common failure point on the inside of the disty. Not terribly common, but that's what most people are refering to when they talk about ignition modules. In the EA81 and EA82 land, that coil also contains some other solid state bits that are not repairable - they are sealed in plastic. GD