GeneralDisorder

Rare enough - try finding a good one without dents when you are restoreing an 82 Brat or something. They aren't the most rare item in the world of course, but being that you have to get them from 4WD's only, and only a select few years..... yeah it makes them hard to find. Random stuff will fall into your lap, but when you actually go looking for some rare item it can't be found in all the land. GD

You need a bumper/brushguard to take the punishment (or some of it). Ruining rare 82 chrome bumpers isn't cool. GD

Sounds like maybe you should check that water pump too. GD

Don't use thicker oil. That's just asking for problems. These engine have VERY close tollerances from the factory, and chances are they are not all that worn. I don't like additives either. Replace the oil pump (or at least the seals), and you did use the new cam tower o-rings with metal reinforcement inside right? And you put the lifters and rockers back where they came from yes? It comes down to oil pressure. The fix is correctly sealed oil delivery systems. You do not need thicker oil, and you do not need additives. You need to eliminate the problem. My 86 sedan has 228,000 on it, just had new head gaskets two weeks ago, and hasn't ticked ever. GD

They actually are locomotive horns. 5 tone units from something..... really good for scareing the i$ht out of folks. I had a single tone tugboat unit I wish I had kept for my wagon. I think I'm going to pick up another and a small semi air tank..... GD

It's for folks that want something bigger than the joneses excursion. Basically it was billed as the largest SUV of all time in the style of the chevy avalanche. It serves no useful purpose beyond being able to tow virtually anything. But if you have something that large to tow, then you probably have the money to have someone on your payroll tow it, and drive yourself around in a maybach. So really other than to impress small minded people that *can* be impressed by such a large hunk of shiny painted garbage..... it doesn't have a point really. GD

If I wanted something that big, I would just get a military Duece. The utility of a pickup truck bed that high off the ground is dubious. The cheap tinny sheet metal wouldn't stand up to forklift usage. Plus you can pick up one of these at DRMO for like a grand. With a new cummins turbo ~$5k. Gotta love the 6x6 too. GD

Yeah - sounds like a linkage thing. GD

I'm pretty sure the XT glass is "Taller" so the wiper would probably be too long. Perhaps something from a Mercedes - the older Merc's have a similar roofline to the EA82's..... just a guess tho. GD

Yeah - and they are about $2.99 at harbor frieght..... GD

Wow - that's a lot of rod, and yeah arc does get mighty hot. MIG is a lot more localized, and the sheilding gas provides better control. It gets hot, but not close to the seals. I agree it's a good idea always, but I'm cheap and none of mine were fried with a 220v Lincoln MIG.... GD

I've welded three diffs and never had a problem with the seals yet.... GD

While that is true, the problems it would create are amazing in their scope. I'm not knocking your idea in principle - I think we *should* help less fortunate countries to bring their standard of living. But giving out money is sadly not the way to it. Everyone knocks Nike for paying so little, but if you think about it.... well let me give you a thought here. What if company X in the USA decided to start hireing unskilled laborers at the rate of say.... $100 per hour? What would happen? Well for one people would immediately quit their jobs and line up down the street to apply there (this already happens at Nike factories in 3rd world countries). You would create in essence an unskilled, rich segment of population. All the money given out immediately flows into the hands of a very few, very powerful individuals. Now you have warlords..... well it just gets messy and untraceable at that point. Sadly you can't give money (and power IS money, so you are giving power to those smart enough to grab it) to the uneducated masses. They won't do the right thing with it. Better to spend on education, and community improvement programs. Give out clothing, food, and free education to the children. It does take longer, but that's the price you pay for organization. GD

Too bad your in CO - I've got lots of time on my hands right now, and I would be up for it. Anyway - post your findings I'm sure we will all be interested. If you could also put in the 1.59:1 low range gear set (or at least see if it fits) that would be awesome. GD

Ah - yeah it's the D/R that the XT6 trans lacks. My mistake: It does have the diff lock. Still - it shows the variability of the EA transmissions..... Maybe all the FT4WD EA transmissions here did have the lock. It's still the same basic transmission as the later Legacy AWD's, so it certainly possibly to have one that doesn't have the lock. Although the FT4WD's were usually high-end cars, so probably most (if not all) did have it. GD

Or you can just soak the lower end (not the diaphram) in a shallow container of carb cleaner overnight and it will come out looking new. I just disconnect the vacuum tube, and block off the passage from the head (take the pipe off, cut each end off, smash the tube flat and run a weld bead across it). I've had a lot of EA engines, and all were done this way. Never had a problem. Manifold is under vacuum - it cannot "open" the EGR without the hose being routed to the back of the diaphram. Sometimes the valve can stick in the open posistion due to carbon build up in the valve body, but this is easily corrected with the carb cleaner treatment. As mentioned, the value of the EGR is non-existant, and it does contribute to cylinder deposits. I don't *use* the valve, but I do clean it, and reinstall it without being hooked up as it does a fine job of being it's own block-off plate. GD

$100 to every citizen wouldn't do squat - except increase your lobying power. The government gave us back a tax refund "kicker" check to all citizens (that pay taxes) a while back that was about that much. Didn't do anything. Not only that - you are assuming his goal isn't to disrupt the econemy..... which may in fact be a major part of his ultimate plan. Depends on what the end game really is. GD

Only 87-89 RX's were FT4WD (AWD), and yes, all RX models with AWD came with a center diff lock. 85/86 were PT4WD with 1.2:1 low range but still had 2WD. GD

Not all - the XT6 is a good example of one that did not. Also you should make note that FT4WD and AWD are fucntionally identical - only differing in marketing terms. The early FT4WD was nothing more than the modern 5 speed Legacy transmission you see today. We just call the technology AWD now. Most locking mechanisms are just a lever that engages a pin or cog into the spider gears and stops them from turning. GD

Nice plan - you could easily take the next presedential election that way. Money ANY power. Finally someone with some imagination in this thread. I like. You can definately have a place in my administration when I take over. GD

First dissasemble the inner axle joint and remove the axle shaft and boot and joint components. Clean out all the grease from the inside of the cup. Use your angle grinder with a cutting wheel to cut off the major portion of the cup down as close as you dare to the splined shaft. Remove the grease plate in the bottom of the cup and you will see that the cup is actually hollow all the way through Grind a slot in the side of the splined portion of the cup with your angle grinder / air die grinder or whatever you have that will fit in the small space. You can grind a slot running centered on the roll pin hole in both sides of the cup Use a large chisel to split the cast cup off the splined shaft. Then deal with the stuck bits of punch and roll pin in the stub shaft. That's going to be a biotch. probably have to heat the sucker up - but at least you will have the cup out of the way. GD

Just imagine the horizontal line that connects the holes in the cam. I don't really pay much attention to the "timing mark" other than generally up or generally down. I don't have timing covers on any of mine, so I just look at the holes and make sure they are "level". The human brain is much more sensitive to "lines" than to little dots. This method has yet to fail me. And i don't do the "rotate and check" after I put them on. I just line them up, time the disty, and start it. Works every time. GD

If you really want it to look military, you need to paint over EVERYTHING that isn't glass, mirror, lens, or tire. Rims should be OD too. Add a few fake bumper numbers in white stencil, and since you are using OD, you need some Korean war era white stars on the roof (to keep the air corp from bombing you), and sides. GD

Totally smacks of wire short - no connection = 0 psi. Grounded to the engine block = 85 psi. 45 = working correctly. I say your problem is a short either in the sender or in the wire for the manifold harness. Just a guess from having lots of experience with both stock and aftermarket guages on subarus..... GD

Test your pressure with an honest mechanical guage. Then replace your sender - sounds like it's shorted, or the wire has partially melted through on the engine somewhere. Trace the wire and see what you can find. You may need to replace the wire back to the intermediate harness connector. GD