GeneralDisorder

Just for future reference, the metal ones are availible at www.thepartsbin.com, so the problem has obviously been noticed even by the aftermarket. That's a rare occurance. http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1988&make=SU&model=LOY-4WD-001&category=All&part=Cam%20Housing%20O-Ring&dp=false GD

Lots of folks have them - I made one. Just take an old rear drum and knock out two of the studs. You could post in the wanted forum, but people with 15" rims don't usually get rid of them. GD

You need to look for Pugeot rims. Call around to some wrecking yards. Subaru didn't offer anything in a 15" for the 4x140 cars. You can drill 15" chevy 6 lug rims too. That's what a lot of us off-roaders use. They are heavier duty rims anyway, and you only need to drill two holes to make them fit. 6x5.5" is equivelent to 6x139.8mm. GD

I did have one lifter slightly complaining most all the time on my 86 sedan on the passenger side. It was a very slight tick so I mostly ignored it. The time came for head gaskets, and what do I find? Now I'm about 95% sure this o-ring is original to the car. Head gaskets had the Subaru logo on them so were either original or replaced with dealer new parts. But they definately looked original, and none of the bolts looked touched to me. None of the usual "mechanic's been here" droppings that I could find.... This leads to an interesting question - exactly when did they realize that a "normal" o-ring wasn't good enough and switch to the metal impregnated form we all see from the dealer today? The new ones I got from Lithia Subaru were definately rubber-over-metal style. Which leads me to wonder how many people out there have TOD they simply will never get rid of without replacing these? Was there a recall at some point? A service bulletin perhaps? This sedan I have was meticulously maintained by an old man - he wrote EVERYTHING down in the manual - even circled the original brand of spark plugs that came with the car from the dealership...... yeah, clearly a nutball, but I have to admit this is the best running carbed EA82 I've seen with 230,000 on it. Never ticked any major amount for me in the last 20,000 I've had it, and all evidence so far sugests the slight tick I had to be gone with the new case o-rings..... What say ye? *edit* I should probably mention this isn't the first time I've found non-metal rings. I replaced what appeared to be original HG's on an 87 Carbed engine about a month ago, and found the same plain rubber rings in it. So if those are to be beleived, the change happened after 87 sometime. GD

Inboard AC pump yes? Pretty much you have to pry it down and tighten it up. It takes about 3 people, a tow truck, and a donkey usually..... Try an actual pry-bar or I like to use a long flat blade screwdriver sometimes. Also taking the pulley off and lubing the track and sometimes a little grinding on the back-side-nut-slider-dealy helps too. But yes - it definately is teh suck, and I feel your pain. :-\ GD

Someone not long ago used some wheel of a Mazda I think - he was asking around on the board about hooking up the cruise control buttons on it.... you might search for a post along those lines. GD

Solved! Third radiator was the charm. I have no idea why the other two radiators I had around (including the one working perfectly prior to the water pump eppisode) wouldn't do the trick.... I put in a 91 Loyale radiator I had around. I wasn't real sure about it since I smacked it around pretty hard when I was taking the engine out of the car (darn torque converter), but it looked like a replacement. It's got a strange lower hose as well - the lower output comes out straight like an EA81, so it's got a full S-curve hose on it. But it works perfect. The temp is 1/4 on the guage and solid as a rock even at 80 MPH. Maybe it was just air in the system and I had to get it hot and flowing a couple times to make it happen. I'm certain the HG's were blown after the water pump went. One cylinder was 20 psi lower than the other 4, and it would heat up to red hot just sitting at an idle. So new Fel-Pro's, OEM intake gaskets, and new OEM cam case o-rings. Thanks for the support everyone! GD

Nope - the Imp is different. GD

Ok. It does spin freely with just a tiny amount of fluid resistance. If you spin it it stops after about 1/2 revolution. It's got maybe 1/32" of play to it - not much at all really - just enough that you can feel a slight movement if you grab it firmly. It makes a lot of noise when you rev the engine and keep it reved... the sound of lots of air being moved (this is with the hood up). I thought they were kind of supposed to sound like that..... GD

Hhhhmm - pretty high up too. Starting to sound unlikely that it could have shot stuff up there and into that hole.... but then it is spinning pretty fast. The pump was totally detroyed - the shaft had 1/2" of play in it as the bearing was GONE. Pretty amazing, and there was really no warning. It just went - started overheating, and by the time I got pulled over it was toast. Had to call AAA. Thanks for the pic - that at least gives me some confidence in the size of that passage. GD

Not a cheap pump - that's the last thing I suspect at this point. It's an OEM part - same make that SOA uses, just with Parut packaging. Pump isn't the issue - of that I'm certain. GD

Yeah - I put a Parut on it (OEM if I'm not mistaken) - cast impeller. The clutch fan is still equipped, and you can definately hear that loud sucker spinning up.... can an overheat damage those? I also have the radiator fan wired for permanent operation as the thermoswitch has always been dead on this one. GD

Not rebuilt or swapped. Original to the car. It was my daily till the water pump went last month and I switched to the Brat - I had put 20,000 on it when the water pump blew. I just pulled it all apart and did everything - head gaskets and up (230k miles - I figured it was probably due anyway). Still overheating. Never had this problem till I changed the pump, but overheating can cause all sorts of gremlins.... GD

Engine running drains the battery - your alternator isn't keeping up. The alternator provides power to the running engine, and charges the battery. Really the battery is only there to start the car. Once it's running the system is self-sustaining, unless the alternator is dead. Then it will run till the battery drains and die. The voltage regulator in the alternator is probably shorted and draining the battery when the engine is off as well. GD

Radiator was fine before the water pump, and I tried another good one I have to no effect. Cap and thermostat are brand new. As of doing the head gaskets (finished today), it only overheats when driving. If it sits idle it will start to cool down. I took it on the freeway, and it got about 1/4" from the red. Never got into the red, but much too hot just the same. GD

Brat's didn't have AWD as an option. They were all part time 4WD. GD

Probably pulled loose the positive supply to the fusible link box. It's a short wire from the positive battery terminal to the links - about 6" long. Bad coil could not possibly cause a no-crank fault. GD

Long story, but the short end is I've got a carbed EA82 that's overheating. I've replaced EVERYTHING down to the head gaskets. The last major malfunction on this one was a catostophic failure of the water pump. It had NO bearings left in it at all, so there was clearly shrapnel involved. Now what are the chances that some of the debris was shot into the block and is now blocking some of the cooling passages? And..... what's the chances of me fishing stuff out with a magnet or chewing gum or? Tommorow I'm probably going to pull the pump and look, but as I didn't think of this possibility when I changed it, I didn't have a good look-see at the passages, and their sizes, etc. And I can't find a picture of an EA82 without it's water pump in place. Strange that everyone likes to take pics of engines all put together . GD

The EA81 and EA82 momo adaptors have been out of production for some time now. Ebay is about the only source, and they can be pricey. The other option is Grant - they still make the EA81 version and I'm not 100% sure, but they might have an EA82 one as well. GD

Will probably save you money anyway. What brand distributor do you need? I may have one for you..... GD

It kinda looked like it - wasn't totally sure tho. Thanks. GD

Air Suction Valve - eliminate it. You can use quarters if you don't have a welder around. Probably the source of your backfires, or at least agrivating them. The EGR. Here's what you do - go to the junk yard and get an EGR off an EA82 with fuel injection (throttle body SPFI style) it will bolt on and does not have the anti-afterburn port on it. As long as you don't hook it up, it will function as a cheap block off plate. Or you can hook it to late ported vacuum from the carb and it will function as it should. Either way is fine. Do the two distributors look the same inside? I warn against using the wrong brand with the wrong brand of coil as it could cause damage down the line, but they *will* run without apparent problem. You are correct on the timing setting - just line up TDC of #1, and then point the rotor at #1 on the cap. You can actually point it at any of the 4 cap posts, just as long as you hook the wires up correctly. There are 4 correct distributor oreintations. Here's the address of the place I use for rebuilding: www.philbingroup.com Oh - and the "resistor" (it's a capacitor, but I know what you are talking about - little silver metal cannistor with a black wire to the coil and to ground). On the EA81's, it's just a "noise reducer" to prevent radio interferance. Totally obsolete part as most new radio's you will find have their own noise reduction electronics. Don't worry about it. GD

Got me - probably a dealership thing. I've never seen that either. Thanks for posting it tho. GD

I *highly* recommend Jerry's kit. The fit and finish is excelent. It's worth the paltry sum he charges to not go through the headache of trying to make it fit without hitting the tunnel, and he does the modifications to the shift linakages so your end product will look 100% stock inside. I have one, and I love it. GD

There is a hall effect device inside the distributor (carbed) - unless it's got points and condensor style, but I seriously doubt that. That's how it fires. It's usually a sealed unit, and they do occasionally fail. This other device under the dash.... I don't know what that's for, but it may be an amplifier or something similar. GD