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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. Clogged PCV system. Replace the valve, and all the PCV lines, and the foam filter in the airbox. GD
  2. Again - cams rotate 1/2 crank speed. That means that they will line up with drivers side up, and passenger side down 1/2 of the time and the other half they will be opposite. Every other revoloution is the same (Down/Up, Up/Down, Down/Up.... etc). GD
  3. It doesn't matter - it will work either way as long as the distributor is stabed in correctly. GD
  4. Once the tensioners take up all the slack the marks don't always line up perfectly. You have to realize that the cams rotate at 1/2 crank speed. 5 degrees at the flywheel will translate to 2.5 degrees at the cams. Probably just how it's going to line up. They don't always line up perfectly. Don't sweat it if it's a tiny bit off after rotating it. As long as it generally correct it should work fine. If you rotate it around and the cams are a tooth off, line the mark on the flywheel up, and rotate the cams one notch on the belt till it lines up. Each time you test the setup it should be narrowing it down to the correct timing. Put them on, time the disty, and try running it. If it runs crappy, redo them. GD
  5. Yeah - EA82 land is totally different. You can change the water pump in an EA81 in 15 minutes. EA82 is about 2 hours with the covers, and 1 hour without. GD
  6. Just do it again - start from the beginning. You are not doing it right if it's not lining up. Keep doing it till you get it right. Practice makes perfect as they say. GD
  7. How do you know it's not broken if you haven't removed the covers? Is there any slop in the belt? GD
  8. +1. Let me add some caps to this - BY FAR the cheapest method. Whole running soobs can be had for a couple hundred with everything needed. No engine/tranny warehouse could get you even *just* the tranny for what a whole car with a bad head gasket can be found for. I haven't paid more than $100 for an EA82 yet.... GD
  9. Dealer quoted you the wrong part. The manifold gaskets at the dealer about ~$3 each. And YES it's absoutely critical. You use those fel-pro's and I guarantee they will fail in the next year or earilier depending on amount of driving - I had a set last 3 months once. Sounds like they quoted you for head gaskets or something - those are about $28 at my dealer...... Incidentally, this is exactly WHY you keep having so many problems - you need to stop cutting corners. Those gaskets should always be replaced, as should any gasket that holds back coolant. Clean the surfaces REALLY well. My preference is a soft wire wheel in a drill. You shouldn't be able to see anything on the surfaces but CLEAN silver metal. Torque the bolts to 12 ft/lbs. As for ignition timing you can do a search on the board. Put the engine at TDC for cylinder 1 and drop the disty in pointing at #1 plug wire on the cap. GD
  10. And read your owners manual before thinking about fixing thing that aren't broken. GD
  11. Fast idle on the Hitachi is very tricky to get right. It's all about adjusting the choke settings, and cleaning the linkage. Basically you have to tear it down. Secondary is vacuum operated from inside the carb casting. It will only open under load usually. WOT will not open it unless conditions dictate (in gear, up a hill in third for example). GD
  12. I had a problem similar to that - the guage just stopped working. No problem with the wires under the dash, or at the sender, so *somewhere" inbetween the tank and the dash there is a problem area in the EA82's with those wires. I ran two new wires to the sending unit, and up to the appropriate wires at the connector under the glove-box that feeds the whole back of the car. I then removed the trim at the bottom of the doors and fed the wires under all that and the carpet. Both work great now. It's really not a difficult job at all. Took about an hour. You might try replacing the sender first.... does the light go out if you disconnect the sender? That would indicate the sender itself is bad. Otherwise you have a grouned wire somewhere on the chassis. GD
  13. Makes sense - lots of heat from both engine and transmission, and by that time in the production the head cracking/gasket issues were well known. So it basically was a very late introduction to the EA82T. Good to know. GD
  14. Take both belts off, turn the flywheel to the center of the three valve timing marks, put the passenger side cam mark up, and the drivers side down, put both belts on, and then time the disty. GD
  15. Unless you have access to a lot of fabrication ability, just buy an STi. It will cost about the same, and it won't take you 5 years to build it. GD
  16. When I was a kid we had an 83 Pontiac Bonneville woody wagon with the rear facing seat. The parents used it to keep us kids WAY in the back. That thing was a beast - had an Olds 301 V8 in it too. GD
  17. Only some do - I think it's the AWD ones. The regular D/R doesn't have one however. GD
  18. Motor is the same - you need the intermittant control unit and you will probably have to custom wire most of it as you don't want to start unraveling the engine harness. GD
  19. Nothing wrong with the push-button trans except it sucks. It's only got high range, and a bunch of aparatus to make that silly button work. Give me a solid lever to pull any day. Worst idea subaru ever used on a transmission. GD
  20. Fry's is an experience unto itself. They have it all. More electronics and components than Radio Shack ever thought of, and everything from office furniture to refrigerators to every electronics known to man. The place is amazing really. It's a fixture in california, and each store has a "theme" like outer space or ancient egypt. Most customers absolutely abhor the company, and their time spent at the store, but we continue to shop there out of pure spite I suppose. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fry's_Electronics GD
  21. Classic wheel bearing symtoms. Jack it up and try to move the wheels with the parking brake OFF. GD
  22. Cmon people - enough of the mundane "I want to be a lemming and drive a WRX/STi like everyone else with no imagination".... Think outside the box, and lets hear some real ideas. The man said "ALL THE MONEY YOU COULD EVER WANT". That's a serious load of cash people. You can fit a lot into "spending it on your current subaru". I mean - it's a vehicle, but that doesn't mean it has to be limited to road.... or mud.... or even Earth for that matter. Subaru moon lander anyone? GD
  23. Naw - that's about the going rate. Around here I think I can get *just* the EA82 faceplates for like $15... (I never have to buy them though as I always seem to have a couple extra from the junk yards and parts cars) but that's US dollars too, so I think you did fine considering you have all those other ones too. Interesting tidbit - my best friend worked at Future Shop back in the day - then got a HUGE settlement when they left the US due to not obeying US tax and labor laws. I remember them being all over the place down here, and then all of a sudden all of them were gone! But we have things like Fry's electronics so no worries. GD
  24. So many things would be redesigned, you could hardly call it a subaru anymore. I would probably retain the body because I like the look, but short of that nearly everything else would be new, and alot of it would be custom. Long travel custom independant suspension - at least 30"+ of travel, and enough clearance to fit 44's (probably boggers, or a mattracks style system). Air lockers front rear and center. Some form of diesel with at least 300 HP (or possibly a small turbine), twin transfer cases (at least 200:1 crawl). Etc. Use your imagination. Oh yeah - and fully submersible with underwater and above water amphibious equipment and drive systems. Bilge pumps, water tight interior, ballast systems for shallow submersion (say.... 25 feet or so). And a retractable top for days on the lake. And a fishing platform with some koosh chairs and such. Electric trolling motor of course.... Lets not forget the full bar, hot tub, and exotic dancers in the back.... GD
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