GeneralDisorder

Sounds like perhaps the input shaft bearing is going. GD

Sounds like it got wired to the neutral switch on the side of the trans... that one is grouned in every gear but open in neutral. GD

The backing plate is not cast, beating it will just bend the i$ht out of it. TWIST it, and beat on the caliper mount (the thick part) to get it to turn. Once you get it turning, work it back and forth till you break up the rust and can pull it off. GD

EJ22 would be the best bet - Turbo's are a headache and a half. The engine will not "just bolt in". It does not match the transmission, and requires an adaptor plate, as well as drilling the flywheel from the old engine to match the EJ crank bolt pattern. Custom plumbing for the radiator, and some slight modification to the engine cross-member. Custom exhaust is needed as well. Then there's the wireing.... and there's no shortage of that. You need the entire engine control harness and computer from a donor car, and no small amount of soldering, fitting, and routing of wires. Really it's quite a mess, but it can and has been done. It's no simple weekend job - don't think it is. Again - transmission will NOT be AWD. It will be 4WD, and can only be used on "slick" surfaces. Just like a truck. If you put it in 4WD on dry pavement, the wheels will bind as there is no center differential. Swapping in an AWD transmission is possible, but if you are going to that trouble, unless you are a real enthusiast, then get a Legacy. GD

92 Loyale will not be AWD, it will be part time 4WD. Rust is the major factor where you live - if it's in good shape on that account, $750 isn't unreasonable. It's a manual yes? I would pass up an automatic - the 3AT's aren't the greatest for longevity over 200k - especially with unknown history. GD

I would like to see what the difference is on faceplate C from faceplate D. I've always used the EA82 adaptors in the EA81's as that's all I've ever found.... Sadly being you are in Canada, I think shipping might be more than just $5, but if not, I would take C. GD

Yeah - we are filthy with them. Well - we used to be anyway. Few years back I remember going to the yard one day and finding at least two dozen EA81's. Back then EA82's were rare in the yards, and Legacy's didn't exist at all. Now it's the EA82's that are comming out my butt (I've got four right now - last yard trip they had about 30), and Legacy's are common too. They have (had maybe) 3 EA81's at my closest yard last week. GD

EA82 ones probably could be - but there's a couple bolts on the EA81 manifold that I'm pretty sure you couldn't get to without pulling it. But I might be wrong. I too tried this a long time ago. The bolts on the EA82 manifold are on the sides, and two of the the EA81 bolts are on the bottom where a wrench will not fit. GD

Yeah - I agree with that. My information has always shown the impacts to be WAY more effiecient in reverse, so I've never put much faith in their tightening ability. But then my air source isn't as good as it could be either. GD

Watch your oil pressure and buy an extra pump - you'll need it if you want to keep that JY engine on the road. GD

Replace the sender first - sounds like it's dead to me. But before you do anything, take a reading with a REAL mechanical guage to verify. GD

Probably dirty coolant. Flush the system. GD

Even a 500 ft/lb impact will not come close to removeing the axle nuts if torqued properly. I would guess you got it to maybe 50 lbs when you installed it, and the loose wheel wore out the cone washer and made the whole assembly looser. Also they sometimes just don't go 100% tight the first time. You should get a BIG breaker bar and stand on it a couple times. Impacts are not going to get the thing anywhere even close to 150 lbs. (unless you got one of those BIG 1" impacts, and an ocean of air to run it with). The impact can APPLY a force equal to a few hundred pounds of force (550 in the case of my 1/2" version), but all that torque goes straight to the sides of the nut. Think about how much force a 200 lb individual like myself can apply to that same nut with a 24" torque wrench.... it's not even in the same ballpark. NEVER use an impact for things like that. They are good for lug nuts, and not much else except loosening. GD

Rebuild the carb or buy a weber. GD

The "pickup coil" is the common failure point on the inside of the disty. Not terribly common, but that's what most people are refering to when they talk about ignition modules. In the EA81 and EA82 land, that coil also contains some other solid state bits that are not repairable - they are sealed in plastic. GD

Probably some time in 87 they changed them. I did an 87 a month ago that was rubber only, and some of you guys have seen rubber/metal, so that's probably a good guess. As to you 93 having more power - sure. They probably made some changes over the years to improve valve springs, and it might even have a different cam profile. With the Weber on my 86 though, it goes very well. For being low geared, and 4WD, it moves with plenty of quickness. It was horribly slow with the original Hitachi. GD

Nope - have to take the manifold off. Use new gaskets FROM THE DEALER. Trust me on this one. GD

RAM gets 140 HP from the EA81 with modified stock heads, cams, MPFI, etc. Subaru race EA82T's were 175 HP. There have been reports of someone is AUS getting around 280 HP from an EA82T. I don't know what the reliablilty was, but its' still an impressive number even if it wasn't reliable. GD

My AC works (I charged it with vintage R12 cans ), and I'm pretty sure that the clutch fan is there to cool the compressor when running the AC at a dead stop. Without the clutch fan, the compressor and compressor clutch would get dangerously hot, and the high side of the system would ice up.... very hot + very cold = all kinds of havoc. My GF's coupe had a completely seized AC compressor and a broken clutch fan (smooshed durring a front-end collision). When I hooked up the disconnected wire to the compressor clutch you could shut the engine down by pressing the AC button on the dash. Compressor wouldn't budge AT ALL - would stop the engine dead. I think I may see how the EA81 electric AC fan fits on the EA82 radiator, and wire it to come on with the AC compressor clutch. GD

Yes - 87 and newer use a hot-wire. It cleans the same way. Flapper door style are found on MPFI/Turbo units from 83 to 86. GD

Basically means you have to strip the engine down to the bare block and heads. Yes - it can be done in the car easily. I did it today and yesterday all at once. Took about 12 hours total probably. But I did a lot of cleaning, degreaseing, etc, and I did head gaskets too, which is a whole extra couple hours of taking the exhaust off, taking the heads off, cleaning the bolts, gasket sufaces, etc, and then careful reinstallation and proper torque. Just the HG's add another 4 hours to the job I would say. Cam o-rings and oil-pump seals could easily be done on in an afternoon. Just start removing things. You will need intake gaskets, cam case o-rings (there's two of them - one on each cam case), and RTV for the cam cases. Oh - and assembly lube to hold the rockers in place when you install the cams. DONT use grease - it's not oil soluble, and will clog the lifters. Leave you timing belt covers off, remove the air injection system, and replace some seals.... good times, good times. GD

Yes - definately. The picture you see is from an 86 sedan in fact. Could also be oil-pump mickey-mouse o-ring gasket, or also dirty lifters (in my opinion, that's usually not the case). Usually it's from air being sucked into the lifters from somewhere. Mostly this o-ring on the cam tower, and the oil-pump gasket. And check your oil level to make sure it's full. Quickest way to noisy lifters is an empty oil pan That one in the picture is HARD - like petrified hard. There's nothing rubber about it after 20 years in a 190 degree engine. I would highly recommend replacing them, and the oil-pump gaskets. It's inexpensive (the parts anyway), and the labor isn't too bad. Gives you a chance to inspect a lot of things down there in the timing belt areas. GD

As far as I can tell, the clutch fans were only on AC equipped models. The few non-AC EA82's I've worked on did not have them. Much like the second electric fan on the EA81's that only came with AC. GD

Well - I'll point out that ALL EA81 radiators were 2 row. And most EA82 radiators were single row. That probably accounts for most of the differences people notice. Haveing twice as many rows makes it a lot harder to clog an EA81 stock radiator. It also seems that most folks that manage to pick up a double row EA82 unit have no problems at all with cooling even on the turbo units. So probably if you compared an EA82 two row, and an EA81 two row the EA82 version would win just being that it's wider..... The problem on the EA82's is that two row's are either extremely rare, or were never done at all from the factory. I've yet to see one anyway... GD

Best method by FAR is switch to the outboard pump and belts. That tensioner setup is silly, and I don't mean in the "haha funnay" way. GD