GeneralDisorder

Brat's didn't have AWD as an option. They were all part time 4WD. GD

Probably pulled loose the positive supply to the fusible link box. It's a short wire from the positive battery terminal to the links - about 6" long. Bad coil could not possibly cause a no-crank fault. GD

Long story, but the short end is I've got a carbed EA82 that's overheating. I've replaced EVERYTHING down to the head gaskets. The last major malfunction on this one was a catostophic failure of the water pump. It had NO bearings left in it at all, so there was clearly shrapnel involved. Now what are the chances that some of the debris was shot into the block and is now blocking some of the cooling passages? And..... what's the chances of me fishing stuff out with a magnet or chewing gum or? Tommorow I'm probably going to pull the pump and look, but as I didn't think of this possibility when I changed it, I didn't have a good look-see at the passages, and their sizes, etc. And I can't find a picture of an EA82 without it's water pump in place. Strange that everyone likes to take pics of engines all put together . GD

The EA81 and EA82 momo adaptors have been out of production for some time now. Ebay is about the only source, and they can be pricey. The other option is Grant - they still make the EA81 version and I'm not 100% sure, but they might have an EA82 one as well. GD

Will probably save you money anyway. What brand distributor do you need? I may have one for you..... GD

It kinda looked like it - wasn't totally sure tho. Thanks. GD

Air Suction Valve - eliminate it. You can use quarters if you don't have a welder around. Probably the source of your backfires, or at least agrivating them. The EGR. Here's what you do - go to the junk yard and get an EGR off an EA82 with fuel injection (throttle body SPFI style) it will bolt on and does not have the anti-afterburn port on it. As long as you don't hook it up, it will function as a cheap block off plate. Or you can hook it to late ported vacuum from the carb and it will function as it should. Either way is fine. Do the two distributors look the same inside? I warn against using the wrong brand with the wrong brand of coil as it could cause damage down the line, but they *will* run without apparent problem. You are correct on the timing setting - just line up TDC of #1, and then point the rotor at #1 on the cap. You can actually point it at any of the 4 cap posts, just as long as you hook the wires up correctly. There are 4 correct distributor oreintations. Here's the address of the place I use for rebuilding: www.philbingroup.com Oh - and the "resistor" (it's a capacitor, but I know what you are talking about - little silver metal cannistor with a black wire to the coil and to ground). On the EA81's, it's just a "noise reducer" to prevent radio interferance. Totally obsolete part as most new radio's you will find have their own noise reduction electronics. Don't worry about it. GD

Got me - probably a dealership thing. I've never seen that either. Thanks for posting it tho. GD

I *highly* recommend Jerry's kit. The fit and finish is excelent. It's worth the paltry sum he charges to not go through the headache of trying to make it fit without hitting the tunnel, and he does the modifications to the shift linakages so your end product will look 100% stock inside. I have one, and I love it. GD

There is a hall effect device inside the distributor (carbed) - unless it's got points and condensor style, but I seriously doubt that. That's how it fires. It's usually a sealed unit, and they do occasionally fail. This other device under the dash.... I don't know what that's for, but it may be an amplifier or something similar. GD

Here's the painfull truth - the trans won't fit. Not without modifiying the tranmission tunnel. The physical sheet metal of the floor pan is a different part number, and shaped differently. It's larger on the auto, and so is the shifter hole, etc. Cutting, beating and possibly welding in new metal would be required to make it fit right. Wireing is minimal actually - that wouldn't be a problem. The 3AT is not electronic, so only some minor changes need to be made. You will lose a TON of power, as those early torque converters were junk, and it's a 3 speed. Plus the failure rate of the 3AT is high. They eat governor gears like candy, and sometimes just completely fail. Basically it's not worth the effort. Find a 5 speed from an EA82 body car, and put that in. Much easier to get it in, and the results will be a lot superior. Lousy shifting is common with the 4 speed, but NOT with the 5. They shift very well. GD

Looks nice - what did you use for the rubber bootie on the fender? That makes it look a lot more finished, and I wouldn't mind picking one up myself.... GD

Mounting points are all the same. All EA81 (and late EA71 with side mount) and EA82 starters mount identically. There will be no grinding required. GD

I should qualify that statement - some are MORE gear reduced than others. Different ratio's inside the thing. Auto's spin faster to overcome the torque converter drag I beleive. GD

Most likely you have to replace the whole distributor. Usually the modules don't come out that easily. Is this carbed or FI? If it's carb, then it's in the disty, and if it's FI, then there isn't one. The disty is a CAS, and the ECU controles spark timing. There would probably be an ignitor somewhere. GD

Yeah - pine oil is VERY potent stuff. My grandfather says the sewer department used to use it to clean people's basements after broken/overflowed sewage lines. Only thing they could find that would eliminate the smell permenently. GD

Vacuum line to the white vacuum accumulator on the passenger side firewall is disconnected, cracked, etc. GD

Swap around with different DOJ cups. Get ahold of rockwell CV and get the proper joint components to use the EA82 turbo cups on the XT6 axles. GD

One is gear reduced, and one is not, but either will work fine. GD

Fotunately on the EA82's they don't seem to live in the core - it's in the blower housing and AC system that mine had a nest. Looked like a mouse city down there. I cleaned out the blower housing, and used a coat hanger to pull all the crap out of the AC. Nasty pee smell dissapeared after that. Now it just smells like stale fries and old McD's wrappers. GD

All the bolts to remove the bracket with the compressor attached are easily accesible. There is no need to remove it from the bracket, and it just makes it more difficult. GD

Yep - that be DL wheel action. EA81's were similar shaped on DL's. GD

SPFI, and change the cams. Your engine already makes peak power in that range, so that leaves throttle response - SPFI FTW. GD

Won't make much difference - those are less than 1" different in size. GD

Pobably corrosion at the sending unit. The light is a different wire than the sender, and if it grounds somewhere the light will stay on. There's a cover glued over the sending unit in the trunk area - lift up the carpet and you will see it. GD