GeneralDisorder

Any EA series starter - they are all the same regardless of transmission type. There is no relay for the start circuit. That's actually the problem since the wireing harness likes to burn and then you need to ADD a relay to get the starter to turn over. GD

That's weird - I've opened them with the car's antenna before..... but then I've replaced a few lock mechanisms, and seeing how they work helps. When I open them I pull or push the lock mechanism horizontally. That usually gets em open. GD

There is a power window control unit hiding somewhere in the dash..... I vaugely recall it being behind the glove box.... I don't think you will be very succesful making it do the "auto-up" thing, as that's a function of the control unit I'm pretty sure. But wiring it to work like the center console switch should be pretty easy. Just pull the center console and run the four wires from that switch to the door and hook them in. Should be real simple. If you really, really want the auto-up feature, you may need a second control unit, and the wireing diagrams. At least that's how I would do it. That way you don't have to dig around and mess up the wiring for the other windows. Might be easier in that case to grab an EA82 control unit and use that. They have the same feature, but the switch is a little different in that it has an extra "click" for the auto up and down feature..... so actually I'm not sure if that would work without it's switch too. Anyway - some thoughts for you. GD

I have picked up both of the Audi's my friend has bought through ebay (he happened to be out of town both times) and have talked to him about the shipping, and both times he had no problems. Both vehicles arrived in excelent condition (although one from wisconsin was a rust ball after only 2 years there - not the shipping companies fault, but sad still). If it gets towed or something equally horrible, then you have recourse I'm sure. Mostly with the shipping company I'm assuming. Explain to them politely that you have paid, and wish services rendered regardless if they have to pay the impound fees to pick it up or not. Being polite, but firm, and still knowing when you should drop the BBB complaint threat is key. Getting angry with a counter jockey is no good either - get someone with some authority on it. Ask for a supervisor or manager if you don't get action after your first call. And again - BE POLITE. Make a few jokes with the guy, make him like you - if you can succeed at that, you'll have the best service possible. I've had a number of jobs in retail, sales, etc. The absolute quickest way to my round-file is getting lippy, empty threats, etc. Just some tips. GD

1. EA82 carb will not fit the EA81 manifold - you will have to swap the whole manifold over. This entails some mods to the manifold to make it fit as well - there's some threads on it. 2. The EA82 Hitachi vacuum secondary is hose powered, and the hoses like to die. It's on the back of the carb. 3. The EA82 Hitachi's choke spring is junk. The end with the hook wears through and falls off leaving you with zero choke. Other than that, if you really want to, it should flow better. The carb is bigger, and should give you a slight performance boost. Although it's so slight you may not even notice it. Manifold flows better too. I say get a weber or SPFI. But that's me. GD

I've used the antenna - bend the tip into a hook and use it like a slim jim. Just need a pair of pliers to unscrew it, and bend the hook. GD

If that's the case, do as I did with my conversion, and cut the leads next to the ECU and solder the resistor right there. GD

Bad rectifier in the voltage regulator. GD

All RX style transmissions for the US market were 3.70, and 1.2:1 low range. 85/86 were part time, and 87-89(.5) were full time with center diff lock. The other low range (wagons and such) are 1.5:1. There are "not-rx's" out there with all the components, but not the badging. And most of this stuff was an "option" that could be ordered at one time or another, so strange stuff does exist. GD

If the lifters are allowed to tick for long enough, the lifter bore will wear to a point where no amount of cleaning or lubrication will help. At this point replacement of the lifters is required. The lifter don't compress much at all when normally inflated. And they do so under hydrualic force. The air inside the lifter causes them to compress and release rapidly, and being an extremely close tollerance part they rapidly wear to a state where they will continually leak, and require higher and higher oil pressures to stay inflated. This is the reason why many have limited results replacing oil pump seals. Fortunately, the lifters are relatively easy to replace when doing the timing belts, and there is a link to a company floating around the board here that rebuilds them for only a few $$ each. GD

It used to be locted next to your stock radio, but when you cut the console for an aftermarket deck, there is no place for the switch. So most just eliminate it. GD

I've seen single dim headlights caused by bad relays. Easy enough to swap them and see... Otherwise probably a ground. GD

Is it the switch or the keylock that is sloppy? If it's the lock cylinder you can have that rebuilt by a locksmith. That would save you from changing keys and such.... If it's the switch itself..... then I have no idea . I'm sure someone over on xt6.net would know.... GD

The resistor REPLACES the solenoid. You just cut the pigtail off the end of the solenoid, and solder/heat shrink the resistor to the leads. Plug it in and you are done. Don't forget to plug the vacuum lines with a couple small bolts or BB's. GD

Do you have a multi-meter? If not, you can probably stop by an Autozone or the like and have them check your alt for free. If you do, set it for Alternating Current, and test across the battery, or off the back of the alternator and to ground. There should be no AC output. Harbor Frieght usually has digital multi-meters for about $5. Very usefull for an older subaru owner. GD

4 quarts - I personally use 10w40 as my engines have over 100k, and the main bearings tend to get sloppy on the EA series engines. You don't need MMO - just use a quart of ATF (dexron automatic transmission fluid). It's both cheaper, and virtually the same thing. Lots of detergents. Then do another oil change after a few hundred miles - EVEN if the tick doesn't go away. You need to flush out the goop that the ATF worked loose and go at it again. What does your oil pressure look like? Dirty lifters are not always the cause of the ticking, and in your case possibly more so since you describe the tick as being there before, but usually going away.... the oil pump seals are probably shot. They get hard, and partially sucked into the main oil gallery, and then they suck air from the crankcase. The air makes the lifters tick. Try the ATF, and if it doesn't help, or only a little after a couple of oil changes with 1 quart of ATF, then you most likely are due for oil pump seals and/or a new oil pump. GD

What are you asking? How to remove the handle itself? There is a metal clip on the backside of the handle shaped like a bent horseshoe - you have to pry it off with a real small flat bladed screwdriver. It can be a PITA. GD

Interesting - have a look under the disty cap and see if there is any play in the shaft. Jumpy tach can be from the shaft bearings getting sloppy. Might be the alternator too so check alt output and verify there isn't any AC comming from it. GD

Lots of racers runs straight ATF. Lower gear resistance = faster speeds, quicker shifts, and better mileage. Start shopping for a couple extra trannies for when you wear them out. Personally I run the Redline with the additive for older MT's. It helps the syncro's, but can take a few thousand miles to really notice it. GD

The really pathetic part is that no one who visits his site would understand or care about their "cause" or whatever it is. Heck I can't even understand it. Looks somewhat arabic in nature by the slide show..... what do they hope to accomplish I wonder? It would seem a waste of their time to target a subaru enthusiast forum like that. Lame. GD

Well - this is an EA81, but it's almost identical. You will have to get one from an EA82, but the idea is the same (ignore the GM alternator - mounts aren't changed appreciably): GD

Usually if you run out of oil the lifters will start ticking like mad. So as long as you didn't run it out of oil, it's probably just a leak. But the other noises and jerking are interesting. You will have to determine what happened before we can comment on what the damage might be. GD

Actually it's because the cams are "unloaded" when the mark is up. It's the only position where none of the valves are compressed. Makes it easier to put the belts on as the cam turns each way a few degrees by hand. GD

You'll have to get the non-ac style bracket for the EA82. I just did the same thing a few days ago. Cost me a whole $3 from the yard. There's two peices to it, and about four bolts. Don't forget the round donut spacer under the middle bracket. GD

I run without them - no problems in 20,000 miles. Use a chisel to split the plastic where the nuts are located. This will at least prevent you from destroying the front cover. If you get new rear covers, use zip ties thought the holes instead of the bolts. This will insure they will come apart next time around. GD