GeneralDisorder

Funny thing is the JDM EJ20 is rated at more HP than the USDM EJ22 - without any turbo's at all. I think it's 150, vs. the USDM EJ22's 135. Damn good price for those. The N/A EJ20 would be my choice - half the price too. GD

1. Kindof. The code means the solenoid has malfuntioned. The EGR valve itself (which is controled by the solenoid) it purely mechanical, and while it does need to be cleaned every 60k or so, the ECU cannot tell if it's working or not. 2. Correct. The resistor "looks" like a solenoid to the ECU, so it assumes it's working, and the code vanishes. 3. Correct. 4. No - the resistor is just a replacement for the solenoid that appears to the ECU to be a working solenoid. If the wireing is somehow messed up, then the resistor won't work either unless as I sugested you put the resistor under the dash AT the ECU's terminal 4. 5. Correct. Replacing the valve itself will do nothing. 6. Correct. The EGR does not help this engine in any of those aspects. It's sole purpose is to lower specific (env. harmful) emissions components. 7. Incorrect - the ECU will only stand a certian number of codes before it goes into "limp" mode. This will reduce your mileage, etc. Every code should be cleared to insure the ECU is running the correct fuel and timing maps. 8. WELL....no comment. Just make the code go away. Either replace the solenoid, and clear all the codes, or put the resistor in and clear the codes. GD

The 02 is found on the 2WD's, and the CA emissions 4WD's. The "49 states" vehicles did not have them. You can either put a non-feedback Hitachi on it, or you can put on another carb, but without the 02, the system will not run correctly at all. It will be very rich. You could add the 02 to this "new" y-pipe if you have access to a welder. Just find the right sized nut, drill a hole and weld the nut over it. GD

Yeah - the blocks can be bent. Especially when you start getting taller blocks. Then they need external bracing. But for a 3" or 4" block, it's near impossible to bend them. I've never bent any of my 3" or 4" blocks (3" on the radius plates, and 4" on the cross-member). I have seen 3" x 3/16" wall blocks bend - there were some on nick's wagon when he bought it. He bent them without problems. My point was just that when the blocks DO bend, the bolt (and hence capture nut) won't bend with it. So you have a better chance of not being stranded, and maybe you only have to replace the block. Nick's 3/16" wall blocks were open design, and while they did bend and get "crushed" slightly, the bolts didn't come loose because they didn't go through the block. Yeah - driving it home was actually ok. Better than I thought it was going to be. But I did only have about 60 miles to go, and it was all straight level freeway. Turning was the suck tho. GD

Just install a Weber. Without the 02, mileage will be very poor. About 15 MPG. GD

That's not completely true. With a long bolt going all the way through the block it certainly is. As the block flexes (and it WILL flex) it puts huge strain on the long bolts because they are forced to flex with the block. If you do as I sugest and use hollow blocks with the original short mounting bolts this bolt flex does not occur. The block is allowed to flex independantly of the mounting bolts, so puts little to no strain on them. I've done crazy stuff with my lift - at the show (and several folks can attest to this) I went so fast down an extremely un-improved fire road that I nearly lost control, and ended up bending the front struts so badly I wasn't sure I could even drive it home. The camber is fubar to say the least. I was probably doing upwards of 35 - 40 MPH, and I was bouncing so violently I couldn't even see straight. Didn't hurt my lift or mounting bolts at all. Long bolts running through the block is a BAD design. The bolt (and the capture nut in the frame) has to flex with the block. The taller you make the block, and thus the longer bolt you have to use, the more pronounced the flex will be. This is why any lift over 4" has to be designed to use the original short bolts. For one thing you can't even find large enough bolts, and the flex is so great at that amount of lift (5" and up) it will rip the capture nuts right out of the frame. It's stronger to use short bolts - even with a small lift. Period. GD

You just have a stubborn air bubble in the master cylinder. You need to bleed the MC first before bleeding at the wheels. And with air at the MC, you may need to bleed quite a bit before you get good pressure at the wheels. There are two bleeder screws on the bottom of the MC - one for each circuit. Bleed both of those, and then proceed to each wheel - making OFTEN checks of the MC to make sure it's full. Top it off after each wheel, and perhaps even halfway through bleeding each wheel. If it gets too low, you will have to start all over again. GD

To avoid all this testing and hassle, you can just put the resistor right under the dash from ECU pin 4 to ground. That will stop the code FOR SURE. GD

Choke power has no correlation to fuel mixture. Insulate the dangling wire, and work on adjusting the linkage or whatever you have to do to correct the mixture. GD

+1 on that possibility. You need to pull the head. It's fubaru. Best bet is to try to find another good used head. That will be the cheapest "out" for your scenario. You have to pull it - period. And then it's not certain it can even be reused without a pretty expensive machine shop bill (think near or over $100), so might as well try to find a good used one for less and save yourself a trip to the machine shop. GD

Depends - if the valve is stuck because it got bent when it overheated, then you need to take the head to a machine shop and have a "valve job" done. Likely it needs milling too if it got that hot. Is it still stuck? Can you see it compressed? Or did the valve just stick when it was hot like the one I did? GD

Mostly, light pulleys do some (not much, but *some*) good on engines that use a vibration dampening pulleys(heavy). The EA81 pulley is already very light. You would save virtually nothing in wieght, it would cost too much, and yeah.... just a wasted effort. Now if you were making a pulley for crank fired ignition, then you might as well try to make it light also. But that's a different scenario. GD

This seems to be somewhat common on the EA82's. I've seen it once as well. In my case the head gasket on that side was blown, so I suspect that a severe overheat caused the valve to seize temporarily. Rocker arm was just lying there in the cam case. I drove it on 3 cylinders about 20 miles home when I bought it. Replaced the HG (but reused all the old rockers and stuff. Didn't mill the heads either as cost was a severe issue for the owner), and although it ran a little warm after that till the radiator was replaced, the car has about 15,000 on it since then and the valve has not attempted this strange feat again. It does burn a little oil (little puff on take-off - probably valve stem seals or that stem is scored internally. Anyway, it runs fine, if maybe a little low on the power spectrum. Still has the Hitachi though. GD

Brumby's in AUS didn't have rear bumpers. Just the end peices. At least that's what I've always seen in the pictures, and it was discussed on here a few years ago. GD

The problems with testing all the components is there are no codes. The thing stubbornly refuses to give me any information to work with. Also this engine ran fine when I pulled it. So basically everything is the same (even the same exhaust and 02 sensor). I even tried the ECU from the donor car. Something is up with the wireing. I've tested all the grounds and power supplys, and I've got the whole system running off a new 12 guage 20 amp circuit directly off the battery with ignition controlled relays. Something isn't right, and I'm about to say screw it and build a mega-squirt for it. I'm assuming that the 02 monitors random flashing is "monitoring" the 02 sensor, and trying to tell me it's rich or lean or something. But I don't know what it means. The partial 89 FSM PDF says nothing about it (that I can find). GD

Generally, the EA engines will wear out the main bearings first. It will not cause the engine to "burn" any oil. Usually oil burning is caused by valve stem seals in these engines. The rings almost never show any wear at all. The rod bearings can wear as well, but these make a light metallic knock under load, and no noise at all when just idleing under no load. The dull thudding noise points to worn main bearings as a likely cause. Usually they will last a long time this way. I ran an EA81 with bad mains (3 times the upper limit for wear) for over 40,000 miles with that dull knock, and it never gave me any problems. Still running when I recently pulled it for a performance rebuild. Check out the timing belt, and accesorie belt stuff - get a bit of 5/8" heater core hose and use it like a stethescope to your ear to pinpoint the noise. GD

EA82 SPFI and 5 speed D/R are setup in my Brat, and after driving for a while I get a code 51. Might as well get that to go away (I don't like it throwing codes in general). I'm assuming the switch is inside the 5 speed D/R? What pins to use on the trans side of the connector? All I have is the partial 89 engine PDF, and EA81 manuals, so.... I could trace it with a MM I suppose, but it's a pain to hook up to the MM, and shift the transmission at the same time by myself. 02 monitor lamp flashes irregularly (when it has no codes).... what is it telling me? There's no rhyme or rythm to it - it's just blinking on and off. Sometimes long blinks, and sometimes very short, and sometimes nothing for a few seconds. I haven't been able to get a smooth idle out of this thing, and right now I can't get it to idle below 1500 - 2000. I just cleaned the IAC, and even replaced it with another one I had cleaned to no effect. What's going on? GD

If you use open blocks (without a tube running through them) and 1/4" wall tube, you can use the stock body mount bolts and lock washers on the top of the block, and new hardware on the bottom of the blocks. I've never had a problem with it this way. The problem comes when you are using 4" long bolts. They are both expensive, and require at least regular checking for loosening. The blocks can be built cheaper (I guess that's the reason, seems like a lot more work to me) out of thiner walled tubing, with a support in the center for the bolt to run through, but for a 4 inch lift all my 1/4" wall blocks were $5 each, and I that's including having the steel yard cut them the tubing into 2"x2"x4" blocks for me with their bandsaw (water cooled), and all I had to do was drill them. That's $90 for all the blocks to do a body lift (pre-cut mind you - they are only about $2.50 each without cutting). You re-use the same bolts for the body, so you only need about $20 worth of hardware to bolt the suspension components to the blocks. I've done four lifts now this way, and NEVER has anything come loose. GD

It has several causes actually. One is low oil pressure - usually caused by the pump-to-block o-ring gasket getting hard, or partially getting sucked into the main oil gallery and allowing air bubbles into the oil. The air gets trapped in the lifters. Another is dirty lifters - not changing the oil often enough or useing poor quality oil will cause the lifters to not fully inflate. And the last reason is worn lifters - this can become an issue with engines that have been allowed to tick for a long time, or have been run low on oil too many times. The lifters get worn from having air bubbles inside them. At this point, R&R of the oil system, complete cleaning, and replacement of worn lifters is needed to bring them back. Often if the engine is in this bad of shape, the main bearings are probably worn as well. For me, if an oil pump/reseal, and changing the oil several times doesn't do it, I would just find another engine to transplant my new oil pump/seals over to. GD

They don't always tick. Depends on maintenance. I've seen ones with a little over 100k that ticked something aweful, and I currently own one with 228k and nary a tick to be seen. It's all about clean oil, and good oil pressure. GD

Wow! - a STD/DL dash..... um..... what exactly is your point? GD

Outer - if you loosen the single 12mm "set" bolt holding the trailing arm to the torsion bar, it slides right off. You can then adjust it by one spline up or down to suit your needs. Watch out tho - one spline is all you should go. One spline works out to 3-4" at the wheel. It moves a LOT, thus the need to adjust the height bolt on the torsion tube for fine adjustment. GD

You can just use a nice welding wire, or if you like the pre-made replacement cables. The biggest problem with the stock wires is they are aluminium. That's one reason they had to be so big. It also unfortunately means they don't take well to flexing, so often I have found stress cracks in the cable near the ends. Nice big copper wires are best, and I usually end up replaceing them. The whole tape mess, and booties and stuff isn't really needed, it's just there to look nice, and prevent accidental arcing when working under the hood. No mistake tho - that's stock! The other problem that causes the "click no start" is the ignition switch harness. The connector under the dash gets burnt from prolonged starting attempts, or from just cranking too long. It's best to install a relay in this circuit anyway, and just makes sense because it's very easy to run a nice 12 or 14 guage wire through a relay to the start solenoid, and control it from the original switch harness. GD

Hhhmmm - interesting. I've only ever seen the Gen 1 stuff myself. I'm betting that they are out of production (as the Gen 1 covers are too). I've seen the carpet covers. Those don't look too bad, and are relatively cheap. GD

Can't he go to some other shop? That's just wack. Hhhhmmm - my parts quick reference shows this: Stop Light, High Mounted - 84701GA030 But it doesn't show a bulb?!? It does for everything else. Weird. GD