GeneralDisorder

Correct - if the module were bad, it would not run regardless of how it was wired. Your problem is clearly in the power supply to the coil. GD

I only paid $7 at the parts store. GD

Well - it didn't help my periodic rough idle any. Hessitation may have been helped, but I can't be sure till I take it for a longer drive and get it on the freeway. I'm going to clean another one I have that has not been contaminated by brake cleaner. It actually says on the bottle of MAF cleaner that it's not as "harsh as brake cleaner or carb cleaner" and will not harm sensitive electronics. So I'm going to clean my untainted one and give that a try as well. For the record it smells like watered down brake cleaner GD

Incorrect - the 81 GL Brat has the EA81 and the 4 speed D/R, so while it is indeed a Gen 1 body, it has a full Gen 2 drivetrain. So his question (which is electronic ignition engine related) is more applicable here where there are MANY more folks familar with his setup. I would say (stab in the dark) either ignition relay, or the ignition switch itself.... but more likely to be a relay or something. If you have a wireing diagram have a look at the coil circuit and start traceing with your multi-meter. GD

Tach may be unrelated - check the shaft bushings in the disty for that. As for the ignition power - what exactly did you hotwire? Did you wire power directly to the coil? Could be a relay..... you have checked the fuses right? GD

Yes - DO NOT connect the vacuum advance to straight manifold vacuum. This will give you full advance at idle, and no advance at WOT. The fact that nothing at all changed points heavily to the unit not working. They can be rebuilt by a distributor shop for about $15 - $20 by installing new rubber in the diaphram. The unit is designed to accept ported vacuum. That is vacuum from above the throttle plate that increases linearly with engine speed and throttle posistion. If you want to overlook the hard lines, that's fine, but run a vacuum line from the front of the carb directly to the disty. GD

Unfortunately, on the EA81, the lock will still not come off as the column lock is engaged. You will have to get it to turn - basically you can destroy the cylinder and it should turn - pound a very strong flat bladded screw driver into the lock and you should be able to smash all the tumblers and turn the screwdriver either by hand or with a pair of vice grips. Those 4 bolts will come out easily with a pair of needle nose pliers - I prefer to start with vice grips, and finish with a regular pair once they are loose. Still the column lock has to be dealt with - it goes through the column and into a square hole in the steering shaft. GD

Actually on an EA81 that means more carbon build up, so higher compression and usually more pinging. I had one with 360k that I couldn't set over 6 degrees As NW mentioned - vac can's on these usually don't work by now. The rubber inside rots out. Test it. 8 degrees is plenty if you have things hooked up properly, and about normal for a carbed engine. GD

Did you drop anything in the cylinder? Have you removed the cam cover to inspect? No compression is more likely to be a cylinder head gasket.... especially with the overheat you describe. If the valve sticks open, the rocker will fall off..... Try turning the valve to see if something is lodged in it, or what's going on. If the stem is bent then turning it may show this. If nothing else works, then hammer on the valve spring till the thing closes properly again. It could just be some carbon build up or something. If the stem is bent hamering it till it opens properly will probably destroy the guide, but at least it will run. Probably smoke quite a bit. Best thing to do is remove that head and inspect it if you can't fix it with the above technique. GD

Either you have the worst luck with cars I've ever encountered, or you need to stop weilding a wrench while you still have something resembling an automobile. Slow down and explain things. First - how do you know #1 is "dead" and what exactly is "dead" about it? And I want technical terms..... Second - what tests have you performed and what results did you get? Compression, spark, vacuum etc.... Third - quit adding strange chemicals to the mix before you know what's going on. GD

Cracks between the valves are extremely common. So common that subaru issued a service bullitin to ignore them unless they actually extend into the coolant passage. If you can't get a fingernail inside the crack, it's fine. Some have peened them shut only to have them come back anyway. Don't worry about it. GD

There's some excelent threads on here about it. You need a Weber 32/36 DGV series (DGEV, DGAV, etc), and the subaru adaptor plate. Last one I did cost me $190 total - that's including carb ($85 used - ebay is a good source), complete rebuild kit, couple new jets, new choke, and new adaptor plate. Would have been about $160 without the choke, but I wanted a new one. The conversion can easily be done in a few hours. First time I did one it took me about 4 hours on a saturday. Really one of the easier conversions to do, and many, many folks on here have done them so there's always plenty of help if you get stuck. GD

CTS - give it a test with your MM. GD

Huh - that's not the same stuff I bought. Mine actually IS Mass Airflow Cleaner. Same brand, but in a grey can. My first stop at autozone I saw that stuff and passed it up as it said nothing about MAF's on the can. GD

Save a ton of money and put the SPFI on. Or - spend probably close to what you are considering, and go LPG. Either option will run at any angle = much nicer for off-road. Here's a better option than that edelbrock pump if you go the fuel system replacement route: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRT%2DP4070&N=700+115&autoview=sku GD

Sure - ebay. They are on there all the time for less than $100, and the adaptor is about $40 online. Last one I did (EA82) cost me $190 total. That's with a full rebuilt, a couple new jets, brand new choke ($35), and new adaptor plate. Got it from a member of this board for $85. I could have done it cheaper if I had used the existing water choke, but I had the money and the desire for the electric... Search ebay for "VW Weber" or "Weber DGV" or "Weber 32 36" "Progressive Weber" etc, etc. I would NEVER pay for the Redline "kit". For one it's a waste of money, and for another it doesn't contain anything you "need" for the conversion. Plus rebuilding the weber (which is a simple carb) gives you a much better understanding of it's workings, and more confidence in your conversion operation as a whole. GD

Empty tank is probably around 20 pounds I would guess. Dimensions are roughly 2.5' x 2' x 1'. That's a rough estimate based on last time I had one out though as I don't have one currently to look at. GD

Just picked up a can of this stuff - CRC brand. I too am wondering if it's any different than Brake Cleaner.... I shall find out. The guy at the parts store (some kid) actually told me I shouldn't waste my money on it. It *was* about $2 more than brake cleaner, but as I couldn't find a can of brake cleaner with a contents listing, I figured what the heck. Can't hurt too much to give it a whirl. I'm experienceing a periodic rought idle, and some hessitation off idle with my transplant SPFI in the Brat, and I would like to rule this out. I did clean the existing MAF with like an entire can of brake cleaner, and it's nice and shiny.... so if this stuff helps I really will know it's something different. GD

Thats the one - you need the twin blade style sender. One side is for the guage on the dash, and the other is for the ECU. But if you live in WA, then just get a Weber for it. That feedback Hitachi is just a mess. You will get a very decent performance boost, quicker easier starts, no hessitation, and better mileage. It's not worth the investment, or hassle to make the Hitachi work when the alternative is better on all accounts. GD

Tighten all your axle nuts and check for play in your wheel bearings (with the hand brake off) GD

People have modded the SPFI intake as it seems to be the best flowing of the single port head intake manifolds. The EA81 D/C flows probably about the same - the manifold isn't so much the problem as the heads and valves. The D/C heads have the same valve arrangement as the EA82, Larger valves, different cam, and dual exaust ports too. The best setup would really be to just slap two carbs on - one on each head. Much easier to fab the "manifold" as there wouldn't be one - just two carbs, and a cross-over vacuum hose to equalize pressure. WAY easier to cast or mill, and you just need a hose for the coolant passage. Plus it all fits under the hood. If you are going to the trouble - thats the way to go IMO. GD

Sure - it could be done. The older military trucks used a canvas boot on the front axles. Actually it's not regular canvas - it's a treated oil cloth. It was a BIG sucker tho, and it had a zipper to facilitate instalation. We would silicone the zipper to keep them from leaking. Pretty cool since it required no dissasembly to install. GD

It's a flat looking weird thing that says "boost sensor" on it. Not a solenoid in any sense of the word, and it doesn't go on a turbo engine. It's used for manifold pressure readings for the ECU on the EA82 feedback carb models. And every one I've tried was a fail..... not sure why they go, but damn they are expensive. Didn't really hurt the mileage, but I still hated the Hitachi. Slow, and complicated. GD

Virtually impossible to find tires for. Well - you *can* find them, but sizes are limted, and the cost is extremely high. Most of the pug owners get rid of those rims in favor of the non-metrics. Sorry - those are scrap metal here in the states. GD

Difficulty level..... meduim I suppose. There's lots of little parts, but as long as you leave the carb on the car, it shouldn't be too much of a problem as you can't really drop anything. There are some very, very small cotter pins that need removing to dissasemble, but the kit should come with replacements. I can tell you that as far as difficulty, installing a Weber is easier. GD