GeneralDisorder

It's got nice white paint - don't jack it up. Unless you are prepared to spend $2000+ for a COMPLETE paint job that will look nice, you will just ruin the value of the car. If you want to screw up a car - buy a pile and rattle can it to get it out of your system. GD

It's not a bolt in unfortunately. The ears aren't the right distance apart. GD

EA81's don't have these problems. No shimming required. With the hydro engines it's just drop in and go. But of course it's a LOT more work to install a hot cam in the EA81 in the first place. GD

Yeah - EJ22 SOCH. They are purdy alright. The single timing belt that's actually thick and lasts a while is nice too. GD

The wireing probably won't be there, and the sending unit for the oil pressure definately won't be there. Best just to install some accurate aftermarket guages anyway - the stock ones suck. GD

Major auto trans surgery? Not pretty. Get a manual and try I guess, but it would be easier to find another trans. You will have to drop it, and split the trans case to get to that gear. GD

You have a Gen 3, and you need lights from a Gen 3 DL. Gen 1 is up to 1979 (EA71) Gen 2 is up to 1984 (EA81) Gen 3 is 85-89, and 90-94 Loyale's. (EA82) GD

Yeah - there's some models of Nissan's that have the same column lock as the EA81 DL non-tilt switch. I found one once.... I think it was in a sentra. GD

Exactly - the accelerator pump is there to smooth the transistion from primary to secondary. If it's not working, you bog down, then accelerate rapidly as the secondary finally kicks fuel in. Some EA71's had EGR, and some did not. If it does, it would be in the back of the manifold as previously sugested - right behind the carb. They don't usually fail, and when they do they almost always fail closed (so you won't notice the failure). Whining noise could be the clutch throwout bearing. It may have actually seized, and thus the tendancy to stall. If this is not remedied, the siezed (or soon to be siezed) bearing will wear right through the pressure plate fingers, and you will lose the use of the clutch, and have a nasty, rather expensive repair on your hands. GD

That makes sense. All of the EA series ignition switch's (to be differentiated from the ignition LOCK, which is seperate in all the cases I've seen) are very close. Even the EA81 switches are similar, but mount with 2 screws. Electrically the same however. GD

Has anyone asked Delta what the size of the shims should be? This shouldn't be hard to figure out if you know what the differences between the stock cam and ground cam are for height mins/max's. Someone there should be able to tell you *exactly*, in thousandths of an inch, what the thickness should be for your grind. This should eliminate the trial and error approach at least. After thinking on it, dimes would vary quite a bit in thickness - different production lines, and they are stamped rather than machined. But I would think that as long as you didn't go too thick (past the oil inflation passage in the head), the lifter should self adjust to correct height as long as you install it "tight". Probably would be beneficial to just use all new lifters. Delta quoted me $7 each for new lifters, but I didn't end up ordering any for my EA81. They are different lifters, but he didn't look up anything - just gave me an off-the-cuff answer of "about $7 each", so I couldn't imagine it would be much different. GD

Theoretically, yes. But practically speaking no as the 9 volt doesn't have enough juice to push even close to 1 amp through you. *maybe* if you stuck it on your tongue, and stripped all the skin off your legs. GD

Don't try that one at home. Standing barefoot in as little as 12" of salt water.... as little as 1 amp will kill you if it goes the right direction. Voltage doesn't mean much. 1 volt and 1 amp can kill easily. Stun guns are VERY high voltage, and low current. Coil output is probably in the 20,000 to 40,000 volt range. GD

First impression of the thread title I guess. GD

EA series are driven off the acc. belts. EJ series are driven off the timing belt. GD

By "hatch struts" I figured he meant the gas struts that hold the tailgate up Which is it? GD

Rav 4's suck, but even he could have gone through if he aired down. GD

Nope. Brat's don't have struts for one thing - neither do "sedans" - you must be talking about the EA81 hatch or the EA82 3 doors. Wagons are shorter than hatch struts.... and are you talking EA81 or EA82? Makes no difference as they are all different lengths. You can buy the things brand new anyway. GD

It's not, it's driven off the (2) accesory belts. GD

Why would you use a Turbo harness for a non-turbo engine? That just doesn't make sense to me..... what's the reason? I would like to know. The EJ18 is by far the most simple of the EJ wireing harnesses.... and the JDM engines tend to be a lot simpler for emissions and such. On the other hand the EJ22 N/A is closer in HP to the JDM EJ20, so might be more applicable to use it's ECU. Maybe a combination of the two. I really don't know, but I'm sure over in the new gen forum there's folks that do.... GD

The 4EAT is a great tranny, and is still being used to this day in the new ru's. The "dreaded" one is the 3AT. Frankly, just part it. It's not worth beans. GD

Actually, no. The trim is simply used to expand the rubber gasket to make it seal. There are no sealants used on the EA81 windsheilds - it relies on the rubber of the gasket, and the smooth painted lip that it surrounds. Removing the trim will get you nowhere as there is nothing under it but rubber. You may be able to inject some sealant under the lip of the gasket where the leak is located, but likely it will not hold. The water is probably getting in near the top and running down. Most likely it has rusted the lip under the gasket and this is the source of your leak. It's best to just go to a windsheild shop and have it taken out, and reinstalled after cleaning and treating the area with POR15. GD

You would be perfectly safe unless you were standing in ocean salt water with bare feet.... GD

Yes, it's either broken, improperly adjusted, etc. You need to get inside and look at it's operation. Sould close with a light *snap* when it's cold, as you pump the gas (or manually operate the throttle) one time. Pumping the gas is absolutely neccesary on carbed engines. It both serves to "set" the choke, and to enrich the mixture with a few squirts from the accelerator pump. Fuel injection automatically enriches the mixture using the computer. Anywhere from 2 - 5 pumps depending on how cold it is. There's no manual lever - it's an automatic (electric) choke. GD

Check your fuses. And there is an ingitor mounted to the coil bracket. Sometimes those go. Sounds like a fuse or something. You need to check spark, and coil power for starters. GD