GeneralDisorder

With 256k, it needs a pump regardless of the condition of the sender. The EA81 pumps should be replaced every 150k in my experience. The senders are about $30, and the pump is $65 or so. Just do the pump, and install a cheap mechanical guage. GD

No - he needs the connector pinout for the guage clusters to swap a manual cluster into an auto vehicle. The tell-tale for the manual does not have the gear indicators like the auto does. GD

I think that's high, but then I'm the guy that always pays $100 or less for subaru's like that. I have no idea what john public would consider fair. If it were me, I would shoot for $4,000, and claim that you can't get a reliable 4WD for less than that. Let them "beat you down" to $1500. GD

I'm saying those are all the potential parts that *could* have been damaged in an impact like that. But it's really not many parts at all. Less than $100 from a junk yard. GD

Check it for compression. sometimes the turbo's like to eat a HG without a lot of notice. When you say it sounds like it's out of time, you are making me wonder if a HG let go. They don't often run on two cylinders. I've got some to run on three, but it's a real fight to keep them running. Drove one I bought on 3 about 20 miles home and it wouldn't do more than 60 MPH on the freeway If the t-belts are new, are you sure you got them tensioned properly? Turn the engine over and check that the cams are 180 degrees out from each other. GD

Easy fix. Just replace the whole knuckle, lower control arm, leading rod, and strut all at once. There's three nuts on the strut top, one bolt for the lower control arm, one nut on the leading rod, and one bolt on the sway bar link. That's two bolts and four nuts plus a few whacks with the hammer to free it from the axle. Replace the broken tie-rod with a new one (about $20), and get a used knuckle with the control arm, leading rod, and strut. The impact probably wasn't all that hard - the tie-rods are just cast metal, and can be snapped pretty easily if you hit one wrong with a lot of force. You may not even have to replace anything but the tie-rod end, or maybe just the end and the inner rod. At any rate, you almost certainly will need an alignment. There's no way the insurance company should be totaling the car for a simple broken tie-rod. Their adjuster is a fool. Rape them for all you can get. GD

Frankly, about $500-$800 give or take. Unless it's really something special, it's a 20 year old car with (what most people consider to be) high mileage, and your insurance will treat it as such. Tell them you want $1000 and consider yourself lucky if you get it. Try to get the car back - at least some of the mechanicals can probably be saved. Definately take your deck, and the roof racks if you can get access to it. Claim that you left something in the car and need to get into it if you have to. GD

You still need to know the type of the 86 engine. If it came from a 4WD, then you will be fine, but if it came from a 2WD, your new clutch will not fit. All EA81 tranny's have the same input shaft splines, so any EA81 (or EA82 2WD) clutch disc will slide on. GD

2WD is a 200mm clutch disc and pressure plate. 4WD is a 225mm clutch disc and pressure plate. They are not interchangeable as they require different flywheels (but a 2WD full set will fit a 4WD tranny and vice-versa). 80-82 EA81's were all 200mm regardless of transmission. 83+ 4WD's got the 225mm style. EA82's changed completely for the 4WD's (same size, but different spline count, different release bearing, etc). EA82 2WD's retain the exact same 200mm clutch - it was used from 1980 - 1994 on all 2WD manual's. (they didn't change the tranny either). GD

New pump, or you can kiss your rod bearings goodbye. Been there, got the t-shirt :-\ GD

Well - the small R160 LSD clutch pack is just too small for the large tire sizes, and relatively slow speeds of trail use. The small amount of help the LSD provides isn't worth the cost of finding one. For the price, you could almost BUY a welder and do the welding yourself on the rear diff. GD

In addition to the above list: You will only need the front section of the driveshaft. You will also need the manual speedo cable - it's longer. You will need to rig up a DL style return spring for the clutch fork as you don't have a hill holder. The 5 speed D/R from the coupe is probably the crappy 1.2:1 low range, and may or may not be the 3.7 diff ratio. Wagon and sedan D/R were 3.9, but the coupe's were usually 1.2:1 low and 3.7 diff. You will have to check. Axles are all the same except for turbo cars that had the 25 spline inner DOJ. GD

I was easily able to lift the back of my EA81 wagon without the rear suspension or fuel tank in place. Just the body back there is pretty light really. If the tank were not full, and you had two large guys (I'm 6' 2", 200 lbs) you could probably lift the back end of a complete sedan. The engine acts like a counter-weight because it's forward of the front wheels. Definately possible. Everything else bdg says is uneducated nonsense tho. Sure is funny to read tho. GD

It may last a long time, but then it may not. Symtoms can be anywhere from mild vibration, to "OH MY GOD" shaking that will make you pull over thinking the car is going to split in half. They usually (in my experience) fail rather abrupty. All of mine that have exhibited bad vibration failed in a span of 10 miles or less. GD

Don't even troubleshoot it if you don't have to. Run a jumper to the + side of the coil, and crank it over. GD

The difference isn't what you think - it's not bigger *around* but rather has a different sized hump in the exhaust area. Make sure to check it out for differences. GD

Personally, I think eliminateing the rod, and making the lower arm an A arm with another pivot point on the cross member would be the way to avoid both bending them, and to get rid of the whole radius rod plate assembley.... Actually it wouldn't be too hard to just make custom control arms from some tube with flat bar for the ball joint mount. I saw some pictures not too long ago of some custom control arms someone made. GD

2WD Loyale would be your best bet (90 - 94). GD

The XT6 clutch is plenty strong. There's a member that recently posted about a race clutch that he installed. I think it was a kevlar material. Do a search. GD

No - it will not help. The gasket is the wrong material. GD

Tony makes real nice stuff - but he doesn't own a soob anymore. You might go trolling for him over on pirate4x4. I have both front and rear bumpers from him - excelent stuff. GD

I wouldn't bother. Save the kit till you really need it. Usually the EA81's don't blow HG's unless they are old and severely overheated. It's also not hard to replace the HG's in the car if you need to later. No need to pull the engine. If your gasket kit isn't from the dealer, I'll warn you now to go straight to the dealer for the intake manifold gaskets. Aftermarket ones (even the Fel-Pro's) won't last more than a few months unfortunately. They leak, and besides just leaking and burning coolant, the manifold bolts will quickly rust in place in the block and when you go to do the gaskets again in 6 months you could snap them off. The dealer version is much like a head gasket in design - it's a metal gasket with graphite. Aftermarket are just cardboard and don't cut it. GD

It's in the pedal assembly for the clutch. Clutch in = neutral. But the FT4WD tranny I thought also had one on the side near the reverse switch.... I know the regular D/R doesn't have one in the tranny..... As for getting the starter to turn, it *should* just work. As long as the ECU pin isn't connected it will think it's in neutral anyway. That was how mine worked, both with a manual and an auto ECU..... GD

Similar, but the intake valves are smaller on the '82, and it will have solid lifters instead of hydraulic. The net effect is 73 HP instead of 74. Not a huge difference on paper, but the power curve of the later engine is a little better as is the torque. As far as the block, it will work just fine, but may not exactly match up on the exhaust - you may have to swap around some of the spacers under the heads between the two. The head gaskets are very easy to do though. Just dissasemble it and you will see. Very straight forward. Be careful with the intake manifold bolts as they tend to snap off. I've taken to using an impact set on a low setting to break the rust bond without turning them far enough to snap them off. GD

SPFI was introduced in 86 actually. 85 2WD's (GL's and GL-10's) were MPFI non-turbo. DL's were always carbed till late 87 when carbs were done away with. GD