GeneralDisorder

There's ignition timing marks (the ones with many lines, and numbers on them), and valve timing marks (the three you mentioned). Crank over to the 0 (zero) mark on the ignition timing lines, and as you come up to the lines hold you finger over the #1 plug hole. When you feel air being pushed out you are on the compression stroke of #1. Then just crank it till the mark is on 0. That's TDC for #1. Put the disty in pointing at whichever plug you want to be #1, and time the rest accordingly. There are 4 correct ways to install the disty, you just have to move the wires around to make it work. GD

+1 on the power. Samuri's and Yoto's wheel all day on 33"+ tires with around 100 HP. The sammi's only had about 70-80 stock, and even with the modified swift engines people put in them, it's still only 110 or so. And the Yota's running the 22R and 22RE are pushing around 140 - same as the EJ22. Another example - the military Hummer. 160 HP diesel. And the H1 weighs around 6,000 lbs. All about gearing. More power won't help you. A 6 will just make it too front heavy. Speed = broken suspension, and blown tires. You want nice slow crawl speeds unless you are building a mud-bog machine, in which case you don't want a transfer case, and you'll need at least a blown pontiac 400 SB in there.... GD

Too difficult to fit, and parts are too expensive. Has all the same head problems of the EA82 since it's an EA82 with two more cylinders. Go with the EJ - less fitement issues, and with a few mods they can have just as much HP. If you want a 6, then use the EG33 from the SVX. At least that engine is bulletproof, and has enough extra HP to be worth the effort, and is narrow enough to fit between the rails. Beleive me that the bell-housing will be the least of your worries fitting a 6 in there. GD

Just a guess, but it may be for the turbo oil supply on the EA81T. They were originally equipped with oil-only turbo's, and later under a recall were fitted with oil/water units. Unless you have a use for it, I would imagine it's safe to just plug it. GD

If the engine is original, then it's got solid lifters. Which means it can't have "TOD". At least not in the sense that term is generally used. Solid lifters just DO make noise. You can help the situation by doing a valve adjustment (required every 15,000 anyway), but they will always be somewhat noisy. GD

Yeah - I took the one on my Brat apart once for a cleaning. Didn't help my slow wipers, and it actually looked pretty good inside. And here in the NW, we get a LOT of rain, so I can't imagine it was not used a significant amount. Make sure to use an electrically friendly grease on the rotory contacts. GD

I haven't seen that before, but water intrusion can cause serious problems with those sockets. The current and water mix causes accelerated deterioration of the zinc coating. If the thing won't seal on it's own, I'll generally use just about an a$$load of RTV on them. I've had to do that on several of the hummer's turn signal housings down at the motorpool. GD

Mine was "frozen" after sitting for a year when I got it. A little lithium grease on either end of the cable, and it started working again after I pounded on it for a while. Definately best to lube that sucker up real good. It also helps I noticed to give the catch tab on the door some adjustment so you don't have to push the lever down so hard each time you use it. GD

Just tap it over to 7/16"x14 or 7/16"x20. I prefer the 20 myself. Then I use a bolt with a lock washer. This size is large enough that it will never strip again, small enough that your tap will thread right in without any drilling required, and small enough that should you for some reason desire to put it back to stock size, can still be fitted with a heli-coil or timesert later (I have never had to do this). I bought two taps (one nice, and one cheap), and cut the tapered end off the cheap one and made my own "bottoming tap" that will cut the last few threads in the bottom of the hole for a perfectly threaded hole. Use stainless steel bolts, with flat and lock washers. GD

New adaptor plate. GD

Yes - they can pop out of the joint and "flop around". Likely it will not hurt anything too much, but there was definate evidence of "floppage" on one I had that did that. Very messy. GD

I put an 81 GL Brat trans into a Gen 2 Brat (82) and it fit like stock. I just had to turn the 4WD linkage 90 degrees.... you'll see when you look at it. It's threaded, and turns easily. No problems with mounting. 81/82 have a different 3rd and 4th gear. They are lower than the 83/84 4 speed. GD

A few HP useage in the alt isn't uncommon, but not enough to really worry about. Racers used to put a disconnect switch on the dash to kill the alt for 1/4 mile runs. But even then it didn't make a huge difference - it was more to kill the drag on the engine so it would rev up faster. GD

The 4EAT is an auto, and completely different. We aren't talking about auto's here, but yes it's a legacy auto trans basically, and it's got a viscous center coupling rather than a diff in the typical sense of the words. And it can be locked with the right application of voltages. Just like the later auto in the legacy. Most turbo's had the push-button single range, or the regular D/R. Only a few later models had the FT4WD. It was a top-of-the-line option only. GD

For fear of causing further damage to my EA81's, I drive an EA82 as my daily. My Brat is potentially worth too much at this point to use as a daily in my mind. I see it as an investment, and one day may be a down payment on a house or something. My wagon of course is too primitive, and the tires too expensive to use as a daily. It does have serious bumpers and guards to prevent as much damage as possible, and to make easy replacement without searching the entire globe for parts. The EA82 is perfect - runs nice, cold AC, and cheap as dirt. Plus it's worth less than $1,000 even in nice condition. I could walk away from an accident, just shrug my shoulders and laugh at the other guy crying over his crushed expensive car. GD

Rare enough - try finding a good one without dents when you are restoreing an 82 Brat or something. They aren't the most rare item in the world of course, but being that you have to get them from 4WD's only, and only a select few years..... yeah it makes them hard to find. Random stuff will fall into your lap, but when you actually go looking for some rare item it can't be found in all the land. GD

You need a bumper/brushguard to take the punishment (or some of it). Ruining rare 82 chrome bumpers isn't cool. GD

Sounds like maybe you should check that water pump too. GD

Don't use thicker oil. That's just asking for problems. These engine have VERY close tollerances from the factory, and chances are they are not all that worn. I don't like additives either. Replace the oil pump (or at least the seals), and you did use the new cam tower o-rings with metal reinforcement inside right? And you put the lifters and rockers back where they came from yes? It comes down to oil pressure. The fix is correctly sealed oil delivery systems. You do not need thicker oil, and you do not need additives. You need to eliminate the problem. My 86 sedan has 228,000 on it, just had new head gaskets two weeks ago, and hasn't ticked ever. GD

They actually are locomotive horns. 5 tone units from something..... really good for scareing the i$ht out of folks. I had a single tone tugboat unit I wish I had kept for my wagon. I think I'm going to pick up another and a small semi air tank..... GD

It's for folks that want something bigger than the joneses excursion. Basically it was billed as the largest SUV of all time in the style of the chevy avalanche. It serves no useful purpose beyond being able to tow virtually anything. But if you have something that large to tow, then you probably have the money to have someone on your payroll tow it, and drive yourself around in a maybach. So really other than to impress small minded people that *can* be impressed by such a large hunk of shiny painted garbage..... it doesn't have a point really. GD

If I wanted something that big, I would just get a military Duece. The utility of a pickup truck bed that high off the ground is dubious. The cheap tinny sheet metal wouldn't stand up to forklift usage. Plus you can pick up one of these at DRMO for like a grand. With a new cummins turbo ~$5k. Gotta love the 6x6 too. GD

Yeah - sounds like a linkage thing. GD

I'm pretty sure the XT glass is "Taller" so the wiper would probably be too long. Perhaps something from a Mercedes - the older Merc's have a similar roofline to the EA82's..... just a guess tho. GD

Yeah - and they are about $2.99 at harbor frieght..... GD