GeneralDisorder

Those are the automatic transmission that you don't have. They are not associated with coolant, but are a seperate cooling passage for the ATF. The very top line goes to the overflow tank. GD

Normal heating and scuffing. Just have it turned and you'll be golden. The heating/cooling cycle causes the crystaline structure of the steel to change, and you get that micro-fractureing of the surface. Looks fine tho. Typical of any clutch I've ever changed. Personally - I just hit it with some sandpaper and call it good. I rarely turn flywheels unless they are really fubar. GD

I think it should be split according to body style, with each section listing the availible engines around the world. "GL" is meaningless of course since there were DL's, GLF's, GFT's, and other such strange beasts. Leone sadly doesn't work well either as it was used for too many different vehicles with too many different drivetrains. It's just to broad I think. Better to just split it along the model year's where changes started. Make one page for the 1980 body style change, a page for the 85 change, and another for the 89/90 change (Legacy). Then in each page note when each model went out of production around the world. The 1980 body style was still in production till 94 for the Brat - it was popular in isreal still..... I have some evidence that some *very* early 85's had Leone badging in the US. Either that or this was a huge mistake at the factory: GD

It was posted on here a while back.... I think from like holland or some weird place where fuel is slightly less expensive than breast augmentation. They said it got incredible mileage - like up in the 40's. GD

Have to remove the kick-panel and read the code while the engine is running when it occurs. I'll go against the grain and say it's a TPS or 02 sensor code.... my crystal ball FWIW. GD

The problem with that, is the EA81's were refered to as "Leone" as well. Just not in the US. Everything from 1980 till the Legacy was called the Leone pretty much. They made our "EA82" body using all sorts of engines - I've seen pics of stock setups with fuel injected EA71's in EA82 body's. You just can't really use the Leone name to descriminate anything other than "it's probably from the 1980's" Gotta dig the EA81 dual-carb Leone RX: GD

Ratcheting Wrenches. FTW. GD

Happens a lot - I've had to rebuild a couple with bad bushings. Usually causes tach jumping, and severe cases can cause power loss. The electrical stuff sounds like the alternator - could be both. I've never noticed bad bushings causing any of that stuff. These guys do a really good rebuild for abouy $30 - $50: http://www.philbingroup.com/ GD

They are supposed to be that way - the differences in belt length and routing requires the sprockets to orient differently to the crank. Remember - crank speed is 2x cam speed. The belt ribbing size is arbitrary in relation to the sprocket diameters so that there is no correlation between the two. Oreintation of the sprocket is purely a function of the length of the belt from the sprocket of the crank to that of the cam (with the tensioner tight), and the belt ribbing size. It would be impossible to oreint the sprockets the same with different belt lengths - try it out on paper if you don't beleive me. Or take a geometry class. As for the HP increase - the SPFI is the cause of that. Different cam profile, stronger valve springs, larger pistons (more compression) and a larger better flowing intake allow for higher RPM's and a better power curve. The SPFI is 9.5:1 comp. and 90 HP at 5200 RPM, and the older carb engine is 9.0:1 comp. and 84 HP at 4800 RPM. Check out where the redline on the tach is between your two cars and you will see what I mean. GD

Naw - you should be fine. They were installed dry at the factory I'm pretty sure. If they come out, all your coolant will flow into the oil pan. Overheat, milkshake, etc. GD

There's quite a few different brands. I usually get the Timken ones from autozone for $11 each. That makes each side about $25 with both bearings and seals. There are sealed, and not sealed, and quite a few different brands - I would say probably at least 4 or 5. GD

I've done a lot of them - just take your time, and head over to harbor frieght and grab a brass punch. Use that to drift the bearings out. Remove the knuckle and lower control arm from the car and do it on the bench. Make sure to only hit the outer race on the new bearings, but feel free to whail on the old ones any way possible to get them out. Pound around the bearing evenly to get them to move. GD

Discount import parts here in portland has them for around $65 - Parut too which is the OEM for Subaru. As shawn says - 1600 is definately different, and will not fit. GD

Figure on around $1000 total. Lifts are around $300 - $400, and Tires/Rims will run right around $500 for some nice swamps, and some chevy 6 lug to set the drill to. GD

DON'T pry on it. You will break it. If you must pry apply a *very* slight force while twisting. Work it back and forth and pull at the same time. It's a lot easier from under the car. Just keep working it and it will come off. GD

It's pretty easy to cut a square hole in the cat and just gut it. Afterwards the dust cover bolts over it and you can't tell. If you wanted larger pipes that would be alright, but for the stock EA82 larger y-pipe's aren't really needed, or reccomended. You will destroy the scavenging. Modified cams and such might need it, but will you be able to test the flow properties? GD

Well - you mentioned that the connectors were different, and the only way that would really be the case between the 83 and the 86 was if the one was a feedback computer controlled carb..... or the 83 was a carter weber?? But that's not likely I wouldn't think. If there's a computer under the dash..... that changes stuff in a lot of not-so-fun ways. GD

No one *wants* to read it. No one sets out to read something like that. It's like a helicopter accident - hard, voilent, and messy. Lots of hot metal sticking out at funny angles..... as my friend Josh likes to say - "There are things you can see, that you can't *un-see*. Every so often the image will pop up in your mind and make you cringe.... for the rest of your life. But - you are spot on Jeff my friend. Like you, I enjoy fruit loops, but only with milk. GD

Do you still have the 86 carb? Should be a pretty straightforward swap. I can help you out if you give me some pics. Is the 83 a feedback unit or something? Might solve your problems to just swap em out. I've had pretty decent luck with rebuilding the Hitachi's except for the one with the sticky float. Usually they aren't too bad if you pop the top off, blow them out with compressed air, replace the top gasket, and the accelerator pump plunger. Just don't lose the small cotter pins. GD

The carb fuel pumps are almost indestructible. I wouldn't suspect it. Rebuild the carb. Fuel pump pressure is only about 2-3 psi on the carbs. Probably one reason the pumps last so long. They are vibrating diaphram pumps, not the rotating vane style used by the fuel injection (the electric motors die on those sometimes). They don't have electric motors, just a couple electro-magnets, and some diaphrams. Virtually indestructible unless they rust out. GD

Might need a new accelerator pump plunger. The stumble sounds like the accelerator pump isn't enriching the mixture on quick throttle openenings. I would check the choke as well of course - it's usually the EA82 choke springs that break, but anything is possible. The end of the spring where it rubs on the plate lever can wear through and just fall off. I've seen it *way* too many times. That's just the idle cut solenoid doing it's job. Without power it thinks the key is off, and cuts the idle fuel to prevent dieseling. GD

Depends on how it fails. If the VR fails in the right way, it can cause as much as 120 VAC or higher output from the alt. Internal stator coil failure can ground to the case and cause fusible links to blow or wires to melt. Bearing failure can destroy brushes, stators, and rotors, and possibly eat belts that drive other essencial components (water pumps, etc). If the rectifier circuit dies AC voltage can cause damage as well. The "christmas tree" will only light up if the failure is in the rectifier circuitry. This causes AC output and defeats the diode's in the control circuits of the guage cluster. Current reverses direction and flows back from gound into the indicator lamps, but only half the current. They glow slightly, or "flicker" with engine RPM. But - this is only one of several types of failures in the alt that can happen. It's a classic case, but I've had plenty of other failures that didn't involve the christmas tree. GD

I don't think it will be "dangerous" per-se. It's definately got automotive leperacy tho. Watch in the rear-view for parts falling off. Give stuff under the car a good shake before you drive it anywhere. Usually in the medium stages of rust like that, stuff hangs together still - except for exhaust, but that pipe doesn't look too old. Rather than *fix* the rust, it would probably be cheaper to just build a full 20+ point cage inside it, and just use the body (and some expansion foam, duct tape, wood, etc) to keep the heat inside. GD

Fantastic! You win... how's it feel? Now it's back to reality for me GD

Why are you using metaphors when discussing your engine? The entire paragraph above condems the EGR with absolutely NO evidence to back up your claim. The internal combustion engine shares no mechanical similarities to the human body, or any other organic life, to my knowledge. You have a strawman arguement, and you are tuning your car with your ear, and the seat of your pants. There's no science, there's no evidence of any kind to support your position. GD