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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. 100% incorrect. That's been a wives tale floating around here for years. I've debunked that one more times than I care to remember. FSM shows one advance curve for all distributors. People may have come up with this by the seat of their pants trying to explain why an ND "feels snappier". It's because the ND coil provides a hotter spark. But a properly tuned Hitachi works just as well. The ND is prefereable for it's fitment with the choke on the Weber DGV. Yeah - secondary coil resistance is supposed to match the ignitor in the disty. I would use either in a real pinch, but you do risk damaging the ignitor module or shortening it's life. Same situation with using aftermarket coil's. GD
  2. Most Fords weren't bad, tis true. I just remember things like the Tempo, and it's Merc counter-part. Truely frightening that one.... we have had four Aerostars in the family, and not very many problems between them. Definately the best of the domestics. GD
  3. When you do that pan gasket again (dealer ONLY for those), coat the whole thing in a thin layer of RTV and let it dry completely before you install it. Yes - you can do it without pulling the engine - it's just a pain in the butt. GD
  4. Have a read about "additives" to your oil. Not worth the potential damages I say. Seafoam in the gas or into the intake is one thing, but I wouldn't put anything in my crankcase but oil. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm GD
  5. Check the alternator for AC output. That's really the only way the warning lights will all glow like that. The AC output (faulty rectifier circuit) defeats the diodes in the power circuits of the warning indicators. As for the CEL - it's probably a bad connection at the intermediate connector going from the ECU harness to the manifold harness. There's two large round connectors - follow the manifold harness to them. The EGR wire is one of the wires in the smaller of the two connectors. Also check that the EGR solenoid connector has power at the black/white wire - should have power in the run position. But by all means - buy a Ford if you think a Ford of similar vintage will be any better. GD
  6. Holding the pedal all the way open puts the ECU into flood-clear mode. Just so you know. GD
  7. Actually - Japan may not have had the Brat. Or if they did it was only later in the game. They had to come to arizona to get one for their museum in Tokyo IIRC. GD
  8. Just swap both at the same time. GD
  9. And our 1980 body style change was actually done in 77, we just didn't get it till 80. Brat was the MV pickup in great brittian, and the Brumby in Aus. It went all over the place tho - Isreal was the second larges market for them, and they had 2WD versions with longer bed's that were extended 2 feet past the rear wheels. They were popular for delivery vehicles I guess. GB got a 2WD version called the "Shifter" also. GD
  10. "It was based on the Leone 4WD....." DOH - so really the Leone applies all the way back to at least 1975, and maybe earlier. Yikes that's a lot of years. Looks like they replaced the FF-1 with the Leone coupe in 1971. Officially according to subaru the Leone ran from 71 to 94. GD
  11. Click on 75-79 and it will show the Brat release in 1977. GD
  12. All 82 and newer EA81's use the same type of disty. There are two brands - Nippon-Denso (ND), and Hitachi. 4WD's had the Hitachi, and 2WD's had the ND. They are interchangeable so long as the correct coil is used also (same brand). GD
  13. The Brat (gen 2) is a Leone - totally and completely. It shares all the same parts. It's really just a 4WD coupe with a bed instead of a roof and trunk. It even used the same doors as the coupe and hatch. It's a leone body as much as the hatch, wagon, sedan and coupe are. You can't exclude it based solely on the bed. Heck - it was even imported as a "car" due to the seats in the bed. GD
  14. Pull it out and slide the new one in. Just make note of the rotor position. There's two wires to the coil - should be easy. GD
  15. How about just "Subaru - Pre-Legacy (Leone, Loyale, FF1, blah, blah)", and then have that include the various subsection links. That's how most of the world would view it I think. Or propose a central Subaru page (labeled "SUBARU" ), and have all the various model lines including the Legacy and newer linked from it. GD
  16. Those are the automatic transmission that you don't have. They are not associated with coolant, but are a seperate cooling passage for the ATF. The very top line goes to the overflow tank. GD
  17. Normal heating and scuffing. Just have it turned and you'll be golden. The heating/cooling cycle causes the crystaline structure of the steel to change, and you get that micro-fractureing of the surface. Looks fine tho. Typical of any clutch I've ever changed. Personally - I just hit it with some sandpaper and call it good. I rarely turn flywheels unless they are really fubar. GD
  18. I think it should be split according to body style, with each section listing the availible engines around the world. "GL" is meaningless of course since there were DL's, GLF's, GFT's, and other such strange beasts. Leone sadly doesn't work well either as it was used for too many different vehicles with too many different drivetrains. It's just to broad I think. Better to just split it along the model year's where changes started. Make one page for the 1980 body style change, a page for the 85 change, and another for the 89/90 change (Legacy). Then in each page note when each model went out of production around the world. The 1980 body style was still in production till 94 for the Brat - it was popular in isreal still..... I have some evidence that some *very* early 85's had Leone badging in the US. Either that or this was a huge mistake at the factory: GD
  19. It was posted on here a while back.... I think from like holland or some weird place where fuel is slightly less expensive than breast augmentation. They said it got incredible mileage - like up in the 40's. GD
  20. Have to remove the kick-panel and read the code while the engine is running when it occurs. I'll go against the grain and say it's a TPS or 02 sensor code.... my crystal ball FWIW. GD
  21. The problem with that, is the EA81's were refered to as "Leone" as well. Just not in the US. Everything from 1980 till the Legacy was called the Leone pretty much. They made our "EA82" body using all sorts of engines - I've seen pics of stock setups with fuel injected EA71's in EA82 body's. You just can't really use the Leone name to descriminate anything other than "it's probably from the 1980's" Gotta dig the EA81 dual-carb Leone RX: GD
  22. Happens a lot - I've had to rebuild a couple with bad bushings. Usually causes tach jumping, and severe cases can cause power loss. The electrical stuff sounds like the alternator - could be both. I've never noticed bad bushings causing any of that stuff. These guys do a really good rebuild for abouy $30 - $50: http://www.philbingroup.com/ GD
  23. They are supposed to be that way - the differences in belt length and routing requires the sprockets to orient differently to the crank. Remember - crank speed is 2x cam speed. The belt ribbing size is arbitrary in relation to the sprocket diameters so that there is no correlation between the two. Oreintation of the sprocket is purely a function of the length of the belt from the sprocket of the crank to that of the cam (with the tensioner tight), and the belt ribbing size. It would be impossible to oreint the sprockets the same with different belt lengths - try it out on paper if you don't beleive me. Or take a geometry class. As for the HP increase - the SPFI is the cause of that. Different cam profile, stronger valve springs, larger pistons (more compression) and a larger better flowing intake allow for higher RPM's and a better power curve. The SPFI is 9.5:1 comp. and 90 HP at 5200 RPM, and the older carb engine is 9.0:1 comp. and 84 HP at 4800 RPM. Check out where the redline on the tach is between your two cars and you will see what I mean. GD
  24. Naw - you should be fine. They were installed dry at the factory I'm pretty sure. If they come out, all your coolant will flow into the oil pan. Overheat, milkshake, etc. GD

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