GeneralDisorder

No - that's the stuff you use for EA82 windsheilds - they are glued in with that black tar rope gook. The sealant for the EA81's is completely different stuff as the EA81 has a full gasket instead of that goop. GD

+1 to that sentiment. And for the reccord in case anyone in EA82 land is listening, they are completely different (and a lot easier! [in some ways ]). GD

Stay out of the turbo for one. When the system goes into boost, the AFR goes through the roof. Under boost it's common to tune at around 10.5:1 AFR. N/A engines can run upwards of 17:1 or higher at cruise, and even at peak HP an N/A will still be running around 12.5:1 Sadly on an auto, this means you need to drive *very carefully* at 55 MPH. Anything above that and you are in positive manifold pressure (boost) at all times. It's the gearing of the 3 speed automatic that's to blame for this. Realistically, 20 MPG would be decent with a turbo *and* an auto tranny. Change it for a 5 speed and you'll get an instant 5 MPG. Basically, the EA82T can get about 24 or 25 MPG if you really baby it (with a 5 speed). But if you drive like grandma in order to get 25, then you might as well not have the turbo at all, and just get the full 30 you would have without it. 02 can help - and clean the MAF. The MAF, TPS, and 02 are the biggest culprits of poor mileage. Also make sure the exhaust is TIGHT. Any leaks forward of the 02 will introduce fresh oxygen and send the ECU a lean signal which will dump MORE fuel in. Any car with an 02 should have a very tight exhaust for best mileage. GD

Yeah - a small hole solves that problem, and is a minor inconvience for someone looking for a special temp other than stock. Turns out that 54mm is almost exactly 2 1/8" (2.125"), which is the size of the GM stuff. GD

FSM calls for Starseal U-70..... your guess is as good as anyone's. Nope - find a good one, or buy a new one from the dealer. GD

The one and only wire to the AC compressor is the AC clutch control - I would use that. This has been discussed a lot lately - a search would be a good idea. GD

That's an excelent way to ruin the bearing race. GD

I blew a bone stock one. Blew BOTH HG's at once. The 4 foot gyser of water that you could shoot out of the radiator cap was neato tho GD

Just set the timing without the engine running. Set it to 10 degrees. After the DEQ test put it back to 20. When you start it at 10 degrees, increase the idle speed to about 1000 RPM using the IAC adjuster - DO NOT touch the stop screw for the throttle plate. You must idle below I think 1200 for the test - the closer to 1200 you can get it the better, but the stock tach isn't very relaible, so shoot for 1000. Fill the tank up to 1/2 and add two bottles of acohol to the fuel (generally sold as fuel dryer, or gas anti-freeze). Whatever it says on the bottles ignore it - just use about 2 quarts. You want the alcohol as it burns hotter and cleaner. Disable your radiator fan if you can, and wait around before you go in for the test or hopefully there is a line there. You want to get the engine a little hotter than it normally runs - 200 - 210 degrees will help. Your biggest gains will be the retarded timing, and the alcohol. Oh - and if you have a fancy oil-element air cleaner (K&N etc) remove it and install a clean paper filter. The oil in them can increase your emissions. Changing your oil can help too - less disolved fuel vapor in the crank-case. GD

Could be - pull off the valve covers and check. You shouldn't feel any real play in the push-rods, and it's fairly obvious when they pop into the lifter.... but you'll have to judge that. GD

Dealer only on the exhaust gaskets: +1 They are about $3 each. GD

You have to cut the old one out with a utility knife. You will need a new gasket, and they are getting hard to find - may be a dealer only item at this point as most glass shops will just "float" it in with hot liquid urethane. You need straight chrome peices and lots of lube (FSM calls for kerosene) to get them in. The chrome trim bits apply the pressure that creates the seal for the gasket. Basically you put the gasket on the windsheild, and thread a cord through the pinch-weld groove of the gasket - set the whole thing in place and pull the cord through into the cabin and it pulls the gasket over the weld. Lots of kerosene for lube, lots of swearing, etc. Then you insert the chrome expanders, and finally there is a special sealant you use around the outside of the gasket where it overlaps the body sheetmetal. It's a heck of a lot easier to just have a shop float one in. Bring them the glass and it should be $50 or $75 or so to have them install it. GD

I hear ya - us Portlanders should band together and start buying parts cars instead. I see them on CL all the time for $100 or less. GD

That's a different beast entirely. What's your fuel system? Being it's an EA81, then your problem is either the head gaskets you just did, or it's fuel related. My first check would be compression. Harbor Frieght has guages for $10. Should probably test out around 150 - 200 on each cylinder depending on valve seat condition. If the comp. checks out, then it's fuel related... but I need to know your chosen poision before I comment on what exactly it might be. GD

Yeah - sounds like you cam timings are off. Check those belts. GD

I'll give it a whirl. Thanks! GD

It likely has compression - it's just turning fast because it's an auto and has a faster starter. I say start checking ignition parts - probably something simple. GD

Oh yeah - if it's going to cause rust - by all means ignore me completely. I don't have to deal with that, so do as you must. GD

I'm the KING of pocketing at the u-pull's - I crammed an ECU down my pants last time.... . I threw two shift knobs and an EJ crank sensor on the counter and the guy said "wednesday afternoon special" and waved me out the door. No charge. If only he knew Seriously - our yards changed ownership, and they want a fortune for everything. They are digging their own hole - the more they charge (for admission, AND parts) the less we are willing to buy, so they have to charge more.... ad-infinitum. GD

Probably the other two wires in the 4 prong plug are the inhibitor wires that prevent starting in anything but park and neutral. GD

If *I* were doing it, in the intrest of making it easy, I would drill another hole (say 1/2") next to the big shifter hole, and run the wires through there with a common rubber "grommet" and some quality zip ties to keep the wire in check around all that moving metal. That way you don't have to cut into the big grommet behind the strut, and you use less wire, and don't have to route all behind the dash and stuff. Just my common-sense approach I guess. GD

I also put in a (supposedly) working solenoid and it tested out to 45 ohms. That's why I tried the 47 ohm unit first - thinking it should be close enough to fool the ECU. All the other solenoids I have around test out to a similar resistance. But again - I'm nearing the end of my rope on this Hitachi SPFI system. GD

Ether (starting fluid) is mostly useful for cold (very cold) starting of large deisel engines. Most of the military equipment we have has a provision for an ether injection system for extremely cold environments. It is VERY potent stuff, and can easily break the relatively thin components in gas engines. GD

Try the search feature. And good luck wasting money and blowing heads. GD

Fuel pump is near the fuel tank, and no, you cannot adjust the valve clearance. Lifter tick is usually obvious, and generally doesn't go away just be reving it. GD