GeneralDisorder

There's quite a few different brands. I usually get the Timken ones from autozone for $11 each. That makes each side about $25 with both bearings and seals. There are sealed, and not sealed, and quite a few different brands - I would say probably at least 4 or 5. GD

I've done a lot of them - just take your time, and head over to harbor frieght and grab a brass punch. Use that to drift the bearings out. Remove the knuckle and lower control arm from the car and do it on the bench. Make sure to only hit the outer race on the new bearings, but feel free to whail on the old ones any way possible to get them out. Pound around the bearing evenly to get them to move. GD

Discount import parts here in portland has them for around $65 - Parut too which is the OEM for Subaru. As shawn says - 1600 is definately different, and will not fit. GD

Figure on around $1000 total. Lifts are around $300 - $400, and Tires/Rims will run right around $500 for some nice swamps, and some chevy 6 lug to set the drill to. GD

DON'T pry on it. You will break it. If you must pry apply a *very* slight force while twisting. Work it back and forth and pull at the same time. It's a lot easier from under the car. Just keep working it and it will come off. GD

It's pretty easy to cut a square hole in the cat and just gut it. Afterwards the dust cover bolts over it and you can't tell. If you wanted larger pipes that would be alright, but for the stock EA82 larger y-pipe's aren't really needed, or reccomended. You will destroy the scavenging. Modified cams and such might need it, but will you be able to test the flow properties? GD

Well - you mentioned that the connectors were different, and the only way that would really be the case between the 83 and the 86 was if the one was a feedback computer controlled carb..... or the 83 was a carter weber?? But that's not likely I wouldn't think. If there's a computer under the dash..... that changes stuff in a lot of not-so-fun ways. GD

No one *wants* to read it. No one sets out to read something like that. It's like a helicopter accident - hard, voilent, and messy. Lots of hot metal sticking out at funny angles..... as my friend Josh likes to say - "There are things you can see, that you can't *un-see*. Every so often the image will pop up in your mind and make you cringe.... for the rest of your life. But - you are spot on Jeff my friend. Like you, I enjoy fruit loops, but only with milk. GD

Do you still have the 86 carb? Should be a pretty straightforward swap. I can help you out if you give me some pics. Is the 83 a feedback unit or something? Might solve your problems to just swap em out. I've had pretty decent luck with rebuilding the Hitachi's except for the one with the sticky float. Usually they aren't too bad if you pop the top off, blow them out with compressed air, replace the top gasket, and the accelerator pump plunger. Just don't lose the small cotter pins. GD

The carb fuel pumps are almost indestructible. I wouldn't suspect it. Rebuild the carb. Fuel pump pressure is only about 2-3 psi on the carbs. Probably one reason the pumps last so long. They are vibrating diaphram pumps, not the rotating vane style used by the fuel injection (the electric motors die on those sometimes). They don't have electric motors, just a couple electro-magnets, and some diaphrams. Virtually indestructible unless they rust out. GD

Might need a new accelerator pump plunger. The stumble sounds like the accelerator pump isn't enriching the mixture on quick throttle openenings. I would check the choke as well of course - it's usually the EA82 choke springs that break, but anything is possible. The end of the spring where it rubs on the plate lever can wear through and just fall off. I've seen it *way* too many times. That's just the idle cut solenoid doing it's job. Without power it thinks the key is off, and cuts the idle fuel to prevent dieseling. GD

Depends on how it fails. If the VR fails in the right way, it can cause as much as 120 VAC or higher output from the alt. Internal stator coil failure can ground to the case and cause fusible links to blow or wires to melt. Bearing failure can destroy brushes, stators, and rotors, and possibly eat belts that drive other essencial components (water pumps, etc). If the rectifier circuit dies AC voltage can cause damage as well. The "christmas tree" will only light up if the failure is in the rectifier circuitry. This causes AC output and defeats the diode's in the control circuits of the guage cluster. Current reverses direction and flows back from gound into the indicator lamps, but only half the current. They glow slightly, or "flicker" with engine RPM. But - this is only one of several types of failures in the alt that can happen. It's a classic case, but I've had plenty of other failures that didn't involve the christmas tree. GD

I don't think it will be "dangerous" per-se. It's definately got automotive leperacy tho. Watch in the rear-view for parts falling off. Give stuff under the car a good shake before you drive it anywhere. Usually in the medium stages of rust like that, stuff hangs together still - except for exhaust, but that pipe doesn't look too old. Rather than *fix* the rust, it would probably be cheaper to just build a full 20+ point cage inside it, and just use the body (and some expansion foam, duct tape, wood, etc) to keep the heat inside. GD

Fantastic! You win... how's it feel? Now it's back to reality for me GD

Why are you using metaphors when discussing your engine? The entire paragraph above condems the EGR with absolutely NO evidence to back up your claim. The internal combustion engine shares no mechanical similarities to the human body, or any other organic life, to my knowledge. You have a strawman arguement, and you are tuning your car with your ear, and the seat of your pants. There's no science, there's no evidence of any kind to support your position. GD

The Fuel pump ONLY runs when the car is either cranking, or running. Plug the green connectors in next to the drivers side strut tower, and turn the key ON. This should cycle the pump every few secconds, and you'll be able to hear it run, and see the fuel comming out. GD

Most batteries can't be "topped off" anymore. Some can, but it's comparitively rare. GD

That's a nice procedure! Too bad the y-pipe isn't on a car yet. ...... and I already tore it out with my impact. Hooray for air! Quicker to cut the thing off, impact it, and then chase the threads. Whole countries have been overthrown in 24 hours. GD

Worth is relative. Water is valuable somewhere on earth. Value of a Brat is what someone is willing to pay you for it. If that's three goats then your Brat is worth as much as an AK47 in most of the world. Did you see the Brat that went for over $7,000 a few months back? I don't know about you, but that's not a paltry sum to me. GD

It's all good - I'm just worked up over all the typing I did ealier in the thread that fell on completely deaf ears. Nothing against you Dole. The EGR thing is poking fun at BDG - he has an EGR fettish. Mine all work fine FTR. You guys do what you like, and if it works, cool. I just don't like the damn CEL flashing at me. Makes me think something is *really* wrong, and when I go to sell my cars it's with a free concience knowing I did all I could to make it possible for another person to work with. Having worked with badly written, poorly documented code, and electronics I'm painfully aware of how my work will impact others. I usually write manuals for cars I've heavily modified with usage/maintenance instructions, and parts lists of any non-stock components. *your* car may be an old subaru, but my project happens to be a pretty decent Brat, and while it may not be worth a whole lot, it's not a $200 beater either. GD

Stock Hitachi carb I assume? Check to make sure the air filter isn't just full of oil.... The Hitachi floats like to stick partialy closed. I had one that did that as long as I owned it, after being rebuilt 7 times, and on two different cars. I threw it away in disgust. Being stranded randomely with a problem that dissapears as soon as you pop the top off the carb, and may not return for months..... for the record it's not cool. GD

4 speed 4WD diff ratio is 3.9:1 For the 81/82 4 speed transmission: 1st gear = 3.636 2nd gear = 1.950 3rd gear = 1.266 4th gear = .885 83+ they changed them a bit: 1st gear = 3.636 2nd gear = 1.950 3rd gear = 1.193 4th gear = .769 Then the 5 speed D/R came out in 85: 1st gear = 3.545 2nd gear = 1.947 3rd gear = 1.366 4th gear = .972 5th gear = .780 So as you can see there's not a lot of difference, and *by definition* overdrive means the output speed is faster than the input. Anything that's higher than 1:1 is overdrive. In fact, the 83+ 4 speed is *taller* than the 5 speed. Also the 5 speed technically has two overdrive gears as both 4th and 5th are taller than 1:1. GD

If the CEL is on, then a code will output to the 02 monitor LED. Warm up engine. Turn off ignition. Connect test (green) connectors. Turn on ignition (do not start it. CEL should be ON). Depress accelerator to the floor, release to half-throttle and hold for 2 seconds. Start engine. Drive at greater than 5 MPH for at least 1 minute. Stop and rev engine above 1500 rpm. Check for codes. If the CEL is blinking there are stored codes, and you need to go to read mode. GD

Almost sounds like the front diff is stuffed.... in which case the tranny is done, yes. I've had gear bind where one of my 4 speed's would bind in 4th if you came to a complete stop while in gear, but I ignored it and am in the habit of going to neutral for full stops anyway. Brakes are not your problem - clearly since it rolls in neutral. That also rules out the axles, rear diff (it will spin when the car rolls), and rear driveline...... which leaves *the tranny*. So, yeah - he's probably right. Jack the front up and put it on jack stands. Play with the front wheels and see what you can hear going on inside the tranny. Might pull the drain plug and see if you have a shavings forest or maybe some chunks in there. It doesn't happen often, but more so with the 4 speed than the later 5 speed. I personally own two 4 speed boat anchors, and have yet to fail a 5 gear unit. GD

No question that you *can* run it without, but the ECU complains about it, and being a software engineer myself, I don't do half-a$$ed computer hook-ups - it's not in my nature. How many other things has Subaru put on the EA engines that's superfluous? Those pesky oil pumps sure are a peice of work eh? Maybe we should just rip those off too. *And NO comments from the peanut gallery about ripping off the EGR - I've heard quite enough about that, thank you* GD