GeneralDisorder

Kinda close actually - she's an antique dealer. My old man refinishes furniture now that he's retired. GD

All the back-pressure you need is in the y-pipe. He asked about the rear section of the exhaust. You can go as large as you want behind the cross-over. GD

Which one is open? If it's the rear throttle, that's the secondary, and is operated with a cam setup from the front plate. It could be that the secondary plate's linkage hopped out of it's track and is jammed in the open posistion. You need to take the linkage apart and verify that it's even put together correctly. They have a number of little washers, and linkage bits - if all of those aren't installed in the right order or the right direction, it can cause the linkage to jam, or be too loose and have things not work correctly. As for something stuck *in* the throttle plate - if it's big enough to block the plate open, it's definately the LAST thing you want falling into the engine. If that's the kind of help your dad gives, tell him to go back to his easy-chair..... My pop's helped me to break a windsheild last time I asked for his help - told him to press gently, and he whacks it like a lumberjack . He sticks to wood-working, and I handle the metal stuff. GD

Pedal pulls cable, cable pulls throttle..... have you *tried* to look at the linkage even? How did you install the Weber in the first place?!? GD

I'm a generator mechanic, and I can tell you that the more times you convert from mechanical to electrical energy, the more you will lose. It's a basic principle of the universe called entropy (which is one aspect of the 2nd law of thermodynamics.... Daeron mentioned the 1st law, but the 2nd is the most important for this conversation). You will always expend more energy than you get back out. Converting from mechanical to electric, and then back to mechanical again is always going to be a loss. Better to just use the mechanical you already had - that's what the AC compressor is for. GD

I did that - that's why I put the resistor under the dash - to eliminate the harness, and minimize the wire length. GD

Ok - I'm throughly fed up with this purge solenoid code. Background: EA82 SPFI. Runs decent, no codes in U-Check. Idle is around 800 - 1000, and I can't get it any lower for some reason. D-Check pulls a code 35 within just a few minutes of driving. I've tried: New solenoid. 47 Ohm 10 watt resistor at the connector for the solenoid under the hood 47 Ohm 10 watt resistor under the dash on it's own power supply, routed directly to pin 5 at the ECU. 68 Ohm 10 watt resistor under the dash. I went back to a fully functional solenoid just a bit ago, and reinstalled the canister and hooked it all back in as stock. No love. I've got the code in every single situation I've tried so far with 2 different ECU's. Ignition on, not running I have 12.3 volts at the solenoid, running I have 13.4 at the solenoid. When I had the resistors in place, both under the hood and under the dash the resistor would heat up so I know current is going through it. I've tried clearing the codes, and when I put it in read mode I get the flashing CEL that tells me there aren't any stored. And it still comes back under D-Check. What gives? I'm getting just a little pissed off. GD

You really can't - it's an optical crank angle sensor. Generally unless the shaft bushings have play in them, it either works or it doesn't. All fuel injected EA82's use the exact same distributor. They may have different plugs but they are all the same. SPFI, MPFI, and Turbo are all identical units. Some have screw-on caps and some clip-on, but again - only cosmetic. If you swap the right harness or plug any of them will work. XT6 is of course the ER27, and would have a 6 cylinder distributor with 6 points on the cap. This will not work. GD

Check fuses, and the resistor block in the duct next to the fan. That's normal. The EGR light comes on every 60,000 miles via a timer in the speedometer. You plug/unplug that wire combination to make it go away after you have "checked" the operation of the EGR system Yes, the flapper valves are vacuum operated. The air noise you hear is the vacuum actuators. GD

Code 5 refers to Non California, Manual transmisson. You need to put the ECU into read mode with the white connectors under the hood to get the stored codes out. Being that it goes away after warmup - my check mark goes beside coolant temp sensor. GD

100% incorrect. That's been a wives tale floating around here for years. I've debunked that one more times than I care to remember. FSM shows one advance curve for all distributors. People may have come up with this by the seat of their pants trying to explain why an ND "feels snappier". It's because the ND coil provides a hotter spark. But a properly tuned Hitachi works just as well. The ND is prefereable for it's fitment with the choke on the Weber DGV. Yeah - secondary coil resistance is supposed to match the ignitor in the disty. I would use either in a real pinch, but you do risk damaging the ignitor module or shortening it's life. Same situation with using aftermarket coil's. GD

Most Fords weren't bad, tis true. I just remember things like the Tempo, and it's Merc counter-part. Truely frightening that one.... we have had four Aerostars in the family, and not very many problems between them. Definately the best of the domestics. GD

When you do that pan gasket again (dealer ONLY for those), coat the whole thing in a thin layer of RTV and let it dry completely before you install it. Yes - you can do it without pulling the engine - it's just a pain in the butt. GD

Have a read about "additives" to your oil. Not worth the potential damages I say. Seafoam in the gas or into the intake is one thing, but I wouldn't put anything in my crankcase but oil. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm GD

Check the alternator for AC output. That's really the only way the warning lights will all glow like that. The AC output (faulty rectifier circuit) defeats the diodes in the power circuits of the warning indicators. As for the CEL - it's probably a bad connection at the intermediate connector going from the ECU harness to the manifold harness. There's two large round connectors - follow the manifold harness to them. The EGR wire is one of the wires in the smaller of the two connectors. Also check that the EGR solenoid connector has power at the black/white wire - should have power in the run position. But by all means - buy a Ford if you think a Ford of similar vintage will be any better. GD

Holding the pedal all the way open puts the ECU into flood-clear mode. Just so you know. GD

Actually - Japan may not have had the Brat. Or if they did it was only later in the game. They had to come to arizona to get one for their museum in Tokyo IIRC. GD

Just swap both at the same time. GD

And our 1980 body style change was actually done in 77, we just didn't get it till 80. Brat was the MV pickup in great brittian, and the Brumby in Aus. It went all over the place tho - Isreal was the second larges market for them, and they had 2WD versions with longer bed's that were extended 2 feet past the rear wheels. They were popular for delivery vehicles I guess. GB got a 2WD version called the "Shifter" also. GD

"It was based on the Leone 4WD....." DOH - so really the Leone applies all the way back to at least 1975, and maybe earlier. Yikes that's a lot of years. Looks like they replaced the FF-1 with the Leone coupe in 1971. Officially according to subaru the Leone ran from 71 to 94. GD

Click on 75-79 and it will show the Brat release in 1977. GD

All 82 and newer EA81's use the same type of disty. There are two brands - Nippon-Denso (ND), and Hitachi. 4WD's had the Hitachi, and 2WD's had the ND. They are interchangeable so long as the correct coil is used also (same brand). GD

The Brat (gen 2) is a Leone - totally and completely. It shares all the same parts. It's really just a 4WD coupe with a bed instead of a roof and trunk. It even used the same doors as the coupe and hatch. It's a leone body as much as the hatch, wagon, sedan and coupe are. You can't exclude it based solely on the bed. Heck - it was even imported as a "car" due to the seats in the bed. GD

Pull it out and slide the new one in. Just make note of the rotor position. There's two wires to the coil - should be easy. GD

How about just "Subaru - Pre-Legacy (Leone, Loyale, FF1, blah, blah)", and then have that include the various subsection links. That's how most of the world would view it I think. Or propose a central Subaru page (labeled "SUBARU" ), and have all the various model lines including the Legacy and newer linked from it. GD