GeneralDisorder

Probably need to clean your idle air control valve. It's on the front of the throttle body - held on with 4 bolts. Download the partial 89 FSM that's floating around on here, and run the D-check mode and see what codes you get from the ECU. GD

My Brat has the same problem on both front wheels. I don't drive it much right now so I haven't got around to fixing it, but my assumption is it's probably a combination of bad leading rod bushings, control arm bushings, and loose ball joints. The net effect is that the bottom of the wheel tucks under too far in turns, allowing the tire to ride up on it's outer edge. I've bent EA81 struts, and they generally bend the *other* direction, and it pushes the top of the tire inward. That and I don't off-road the Brat so I know they aren't bent. One thing I've noticed is the 2WD EA81's don't seem to do this, and neither do the ones with power steering - the commonality there is the strut tops are reversed. I wonder if turning the strut tops around would help matters? Just a thought. GD

www.subaruparts.com www.1stsubaruparts.com Both are dealerships. GD

It's pretty small, only about 3" long or less, so I doubt you did anything to it. I've encountered several that have cracked. GD

The 85/86 RX sedan isn't very desireable. It's got the flapper-door MAF, and Gen 1 turbo heads. Also only has part time 4WD, not the AWD (Full Time 4WD) of the later 87 and up RX coupe. In the condition you describe, I would offer them $100 for it, and walk away if they want more. If it runs and drives real nice and looks good - maybe $500 tops. GD

ONLY buy clutch cables from the dealer. They are less than $20, and aftermarket are junk. See my write up for all the details: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD

Sounds like the vacuum line on the back of the carb that operates the secondary barrel may have come off. Check it out. GD

Could be a coolant thermo-sensor code. Once you get the CEL light, just read the code off the ECU and that should get you started in the right direction. GD

There are two types of codes. The first type are the very serious codes that cause the engine to run "funny", or not at all. Those codes will light up the CEL, and the code will immediately flash on the monitor lamp of the ECU. No need to connect anything to read these. Generally if one of these is going to come up, it will do it in the first few miles of driving, or sometimes almost as soon as the engine reaches operating temp and trys to enter closed loop operation. The other type of code will only be set in "D-check mode" which stands for "Dealer Check Mode". You have to follow the procedure in the FSM for how this is done, but the first step is to read the stored codes, clear them, and then run the procedure with the green connectors ("test mode") connected. The procedure involves such tasks as reving the engine and holding the RPM's, returning to half throttle for a while, and driving at greater than 5 MPH for a set time period..... etc. It's not just a simple matter of running the thing at idle. It's the diagnostic mode the dealer uses to troubleshoot complaints that are do not immediately impact the operation of the vehicle. There should be a link around here somewhere to a partial 89 FSM in PDF that has the procedure in it. GD

Sadly, having worked with the same urethane, I can tell you that urethane has one big drawback to rubber - it does not adhere to metal. So with subaru mounts, it's not as simple as "filling it" since the mount is a rubber sandwitch between two steel plates. It just doesn't work. When the engine or tranny torques over to one side it will rip the urethane from the metal plate. There are of course more complex ways to incorporate urethane that involve using closed sided blocks with steel bushings running through them.... insert complete mount redesign here.... GD

You would need someone with very sophisticated machineing and casting abilities, and people like that have very $$$ time. The machines used to do things like createing new heads are extremely expensive, and expensive to operate. Not likely. And if you had unlimited money - what are you doing with an EA82 in the first place? That's just stupid, and stupid people are generally poor. BTW - for anyone reading this that HAS unlimited money and an EA82.... I am also a Pet Psychic, and I have a degree in Feng Shui. Feel free to contact me for a consultation! GD

The ECU does not control the trans. The trans is self-contained, and is vacuum/speed shifted by the governor on the side of the tranny. Three bolts will take the cover off and allow you to pull out the governor. There used to be an article in the USRM about how to check them out and make some light adjustments to the sliding mechanisms. The edges of the pressure valve inside them get "burred" and the mechanism starts to bind. The surging problem will probably be a real mess to track down. I sugest you pull off the drivers side kick panel (4 little screws) and leave it off so you can read the codes it's flashing at you. You may have a vacuum leak, or a problem with one of the duty solenoids. First thing - spray around the engine bay with a can of carb cleaner while it's running to check for vac leaks. If your time is cheap to you, then you can try locating the problem. But the likely time investment it may require is more than the cost of a Weber. I did a Weber for my EA82 feedback carb (worse than the EA81) for about $190 - used carb. new jets, new choke, complete rebuild, and adaptor plate. GD

Yeah - I bet that was a fun trip. Speaking of the lifter ticking, I'm betting she needs new oil pump seals, and maybe cam case o-rings. Maybe even a new oil pump. I would hazzard a guess that the alaskan climate (low temperature) probably accelerated the wear factor due to high oil viscosity, and may have damaged some of the rubber for the seals more quickly. GD

If you are prepared to do something like this, just get a turbo legacy engine. It's not any more work, but it's a heck of a lot more reliable, and powerful. EA82T's tend to blow head gaskets, and crack heads. And they only have about 25 HP more (peak) than the SPFI. The EJ22G (turbo) is 160 stock. EA82 SPFI is 90, and EA82T is 115. The almost complete lack of aftermarket support for the EA82T is a problem. Weak factory parts have no upgrade path.... GD

The SPFI pistons really aren't all that different. EA81 and EA82 both have the same bore and stroke. The SPFI pistons have "dimples" where the valves sit.... but that's really only so the EA82 doesn't bend valves if the timing belt breaks. The EA81 being gear driven wouldn't have this problem anyway. Shouldn't be any different than using EA71 pistons.... there were some JDM EA63's?? that were designated "HC" for high compression, and already had 9.5:1 running with a carb. But I think that was before leaded fuel went away . GD

Actually - an 87 carb will probably have one head without the ASV port above the exhuast, and one with. Easy enough to just cut the end off the pipe, flatten it with a hammer and run a weld bead across. All the heads have the port, it's jut not drilled on FI engines, and on some carb models the passenger side head isn't either. You would be smart to yank your SPFI engine, drop it in, and use the carb manifold to bolt on a Weber. Keep the old carb block as a spare. GD

Trans governor probably needs attention. I doubt it's related. 02 is in the y-pipe where the cat is located. You will see the wire. You'll need to pick up an 02 socket for installation of a new one. GD

GD's rules to live by number 43: It's only illegal if you get caught. jack@assery or not, he wasn't caught. No criminal means no charges means no crime. And it looks like it will remain that way for the forseeable future. Car's totaled - it's a hunk of metal. Move on. GD

Direct bolt in will be any 4 speed 4WD. 81 - 84 wagons, sedans (coupes didn't come 4WD except automatic/turbo) 81 - 87 Brats. 81 - 89 Hatchback. If you look inside and it has the same lever for 4WD, and the same interior, it will fit. DL's were single range without the low gear, but otherwise look and bolt in the same. Same for seats, but add 1980 to everything except the Brat line, and take away 1981 from the Brat line above. It's not hard to put later model seats in, and you aren't likely to find any decent EA81 body seats. The foam in them sucks. GD

100% correct - their parts references are wrong. GD

You clearly have the feedback carb. I would guess I'm probably the only one on this board that has really delt with them in any depth. 1. Most important - don't pay any attention to anyone that posts info relating to the fuel injection vehicles (SPFI, MPFI, etc). It does not apply. 2. The light you see is the ECU. It's the 02 monitor lamp, and my gut instinct says you need a new oxygen sensor. I had one go out on my EA81 feedback, and unlike the fuel injection systems, the computer can't compensate, and in my case the engine would sputter and die. You can try disconnecting the 02 sensor. The mileage will suck, but the ECU will run without it connected, but wont run with a bad one connected. Weird, I know, but it's true. 3. The first thing to note is the feedback ECU has no memory capability. Every time you start the car, the system resets. There is a single set of test mode connectors under the dash, but to use them you need the 20 or so pages from the FSM to run all the tests. I would say that since your ECS lamp is not comming on, what you are seeing is the actual 02 monitor lamp, and the oxygen sensor is going rich and causing the ECU to cut off the fuel supply to the carb. If the system was giving you an actual code, it would flash it out in morse code, and the ECS lamp would come on. If you *really* need the diagnostic stuff, I can probably take some pics of the FSM for you. It's a real mess tho. GD

I also take the lower control arm loose - it's just one bolt. The extra weight of the whole knuckle pulling down helps to free them. Although I have to give the "expertise" nod towards the poor folks in the rusty states. Out here that's not even a problem really. GD

Yeah - should be pretty simple. Your biggest differences are going to be wireing. The reverse light switch, and neutral start (if it even has one??). I haven't messed with EA81 auto's much... You will want to remove the steering column to do the pedal swap. Much easier this way, and the column is actually surprisingly easy to remove - just two bolts, the u-joint under the hood, and a couple electrical connectors. And remember to route the clutch cable UNDER the steering column, and the heater core hoses. Probably a good idea to invest the ~$20 and get a new clutch cable for all your effort. Also get a new cable pin for the pedal end of the cable (seperate part number), and inspect the pedal you get at the yard to make sure there isn't way too much ovaling of the pin-hole in the pedal. Oh yeah - and you are going to need to swap the speedo cable too. The auto one is too short by about 8" or so. Remove the guage cluster and install the cable before you install the new pedal assembly and the column so you have room to work. Route it carefully, and while the cluster is out take the front clear plastic off and clean inside the guages, and polish the plastic if you like with some toothpaste, or jewlers plastic polish. GD

You'll see when you get to it - it will be obvious. You may not have to cut - usually that's just to clear the 4 speed 4WD shifter. The 5 speed shifter doesn't require much room, and IIRC, the hole for the auto is bigger than the 5 speed 2WD hole anyway. GD

Here's my understanding of the oil system.... 1. The pressure reading is taken directly off the pump. Therefore, nothing downstream of that point can affect the pressure reading. The EA81 in my Brat, with a main bearing knock still read 25 psi hot idle. When I tore it down the mains were scored, and starting to wear through the plating - they measured about twice the acceptable book limit. My 83 FSM (which doesn't cover the turbo, and your turbo has an oil cooler, as well as oil supply to the turbo itself.... so it very well could be different) indicates 25 psi as the lower limit of acceptable reading from the dash guage. 2. Because of the way the pressure reading is taken, as the engine wear's, the pressure remains largely the same. Only wear to the pump and the sending unit can cause the pressure change. This makes sense as the gauge is designed to warn the driver that the pump needs changing. The engine *can* run at lots of different pressure's, but if it starts to dip lower than normal, it's time for a new pump. 3. My expereince has been that if you allow the engine to continue operating at lower than 20 psi for too long, you will lose the rod bearings. The original engine in my wagon threw the #3 rod out the top of the block. It had a digi-dash without a pressure guage, and one time on my way home from some off-roading, the oil pressure warning light started to flicker just a little at idle. I replaced the pump seals but not the pump, and about 3k miles later it blew the rod. If I had installed a guage, and knew what I know now, that engine would probably still be running - I bought the car in perfect running order at 140k, and 165k it threw the rod. It's my fault because I didn't replace the pump. I changed the oil, but the pump was on it's last legs, and drowning the engine with swamp water a half dozen times and running with contaminated oil was the final straw for it. Now - you say the pump is new... what brand? I only use the Parut (OEM) pumps myself. I don't know if there are even any aftermarket pumps for the EA81, but I wouldn't buy one if there were. GD