GeneralDisorder

Wow - that's a lot of rod, and yeah arc does get mighty hot. MIG is a lot more localized, and the sheilding gas provides better control. It gets hot, but not close to the seals. I agree it's a good idea always, but I'm cheap and none of mine were fried with a 220v Lincoln MIG.... GD

I've welded three diffs and never had a problem with the seals yet.... GD

While that is true, the problems it would create are amazing in their scope. I'm not knocking your idea in principle - I think we *should* help less fortunate countries to bring their standard of living. But giving out money is sadly not the way to it. Everyone knocks Nike for paying so little, but if you think about it.... well let me give you a thought here. What if company X in the USA decided to start hireing unskilled laborers at the rate of say.... $100 per hour? What would happen? Well for one people would immediately quit their jobs and line up down the street to apply there (this already happens at Nike factories in 3rd world countries). You would create in essence an unskilled, rich segment of population. All the money given out immediately flows into the hands of a very few, very powerful individuals. Now you have warlords..... well it just gets messy and untraceable at that point. Sadly you can't give money (and power IS money, so you are giving power to those smart enough to grab it) to the uneducated masses. They won't do the right thing with it. Better to spend on education, and community improvement programs. Give out clothing, food, and free education to the children. It does take longer, but that's the price you pay for organization. GD

Too bad your in CO - I've got lots of time on my hands right now, and I would be up for it. Anyway - post your findings I'm sure we will all be interested. If you could also put in the 1.59:1 low range gear set (or at least see if it fits) that would be awesome. GD

Ah - yeah it's the D/R that the XT6 trans lacks. My mistake: It does have the diff lock. Still - it shows the variability of the EA transmissions..... Maybe all the FT4WD EA transmissions here did have the lock. It's still the same basic transmission as the later Legacy AWD's, so it certainly possibly to have one that doesn't have the lock. Although the FT4WD's were usually high-end cars, so probably most (if not all) did have it. GD

Or you can just soak the lower end (not the diaphram) in a shallow container of carb cleaner overnight and it will come out looking new. I just disconnect the vacuum tube, and block off the passage from the head (take the pipe off, cut each end off, smash the tube flat and run a weld bead across it). I've had a lot of EA engines, and all were done this way. Never had a problem. Manifold is under vacuum - it cannot "open" the EGR without the hose being routed to the back of the diaphram. Sometimes the valve can stick in the open posistion due to carbon build up in the valve body, but this is easily corrected with the carb cleaner treatment. As mentioned, the value of the EGR is non-existant, and it does contribute to cylinder deposits. I don't *use* the valve, but I do clean it, and reinstall it without being hooked up as it does a fine job of being it's own block-off plate. GD

$100 to every citizen wouldn't do squat - except increase your lobying power. The government gave us back a tax refund "kicker" check to all citizens (that pay taxes) a while back that was about that much. Didn't do anything. Not only that - you are assuming his goal isn't to disrupt the econemy..... which may in fact be a major part of his ultimate plan. Depends on what the end game really is. GD

Only 87-89 RX's were FT4WD (AWD), and yes, all RX models with AWD came with a center diff lock. 85/86 were PT4WD with 1.2:1 low range but still had 2WD. GD

Not all - the XT6 is a good example of one that did not. Also you should make note that FT4WD and AWD are fucntionally identical - only differing in marketing terms. The early FT4WD was nothing more than the modern 5 speed Legacy transmission you see today. We just call the technology AWD now. Most locking mechanisms are just a lever that engages a pin or cog into the spider gears and stops them from turning. GD

Nice plan - you could easily take the next presedential election that way. Money ANY power. Finally someone with some imagination in this thread. I like. You can definately have a place in my administration when I take over. GD

First dissasemble the inner axle joint and remove the axle shaft and boot and joint components. Clean out all the grease from the inside of the cup. Use your angle grinder with a cutting wheel to cut off the major portion of the cup down as close as you dare to the splined shaft. Remove the grease plate in the bottom of the cup and you will see that the cup is actually hollow all the way through Grind a slot in the side of the splined portion of the cup with your angle grinder / air die grinder or whatever you have that will fit in the small space. You can grind a slot running centered on the roll pin hole in both sides of the cup Use a large chisel to split the cast cup off the splined shaft. Then deal with the stuck bits of punch and roll pin in the stub shaft. That's going to be a biotch. probably have to heat the sucker up - but at least you will have the cup out of the way. GD

Just imagine the horizontal line that connects the holes in the cam. I don't really pay much attention to the "timing mark" other than generally up or generally down. I don't have timing covers on any of mine, so I just look at the holes and make sure they are "level". The human brain is much more sensitive to "lines" than to little dots. This method has yet to fail me. And i don't do the "rotate and check" after I put them on. I just line them up, time the disty, and start it. Works every time. GD

If you really want it to look military, you need to paint over EVERYTHING that isn't glass, mirror, lens, or tire. Rims should be OD too. Add a few fake bumper numbers in white stencil, and since you are using OD, you need some Korean war era white stars on the roof (to keep the air corp from bombing you), and sides. GD

Totally smacks of wire short - no connection = 0 psi. Grounded to the engine block = 85 psi. 45 = working correctly. I say your problem is a short either in the sender or in the wire for the manifold harness. Just a guess from having lots of experience with both stock and aftermarket guages on subarus..... GD

Test your pressure with an honest mechanical guage. Then replace your sender - sounds like it's shorted, or the wire has partially melted through on the engine somewhere. Trace the wire and see what you can find. You may need to replace the wire back to the intermediate harness connector. GD

Clogged PCV system. Replace the valve, and all the PCV lines, and the foam filter in the airbox. GD

Again - cams rotate 1/2 crank speed. That means that they will line up with drivers side up, and passenger side down 1/2 of the time and the other half they will be opposite. Every other revoloution is the same (Down/Up, Up/Down, Down/Up.... etc). GD

It doesn't matter - it will work either way as long as the distributor is stabed in correctly. GD

Once the tensioners take up all the slack the marks don't always line up perfectly. You have to realize that the cams rotate at 1/2 crank speed. 5 degrees at the flywheel will translate to 2.5 degrees at the cams. Probably just how it's going to line up. They don't always line up perfectly. Don't sweat it if it's a tiny bit off after rotating it. As long as it generally correct it should work fine. If you rotate it around and the cams are a tooth off, line the mark on the flywheel up, and rotate the cams one notch on the belt till it lines up. Each time you test the setup it should be narrowing it down to the correct timing. Put them on, time the disty, and try running it. If it runs crappy, redo them. GD

Yeah - EA82 land is totally different. You can change the water pump in an EA81 in 15 minutes. EA82 is about 2 hours with the covers, and 1 hour without. GD

Just do it again - start from the beginning. You are not doing it right if it's not lining up. Keep doing it till you get it right. Practice makes perfect as they say. GD

How do you know it's not broken if you haven't removed the covers? Is there any slop in the belt? GD

+1. Let me add some caps to this - BY FAR the cheapest method. Whole running soobs can be had for a couple hundred with everything needed. No engine/tranny warehouse could get you even *just* the tranny for what a whole car with a bad head gasket can be found for. I haven't paid more than $100 for an EA82 yet.... GD

Dealer quoted you the wrong part. The manifold gaskets at the dealer about ~$3 each. And YES it's absoutely critical. You use those fel-pro's and I guarantee they will fail in the next year or earilier depending on amount of driving - I had a set last 3 months once. Sounds like they quoted you for head gaskets or something - those are about $28 at my dealer...... Incidentally, this is exactly WHY you keep having so many problems - you need to stop cutting corners. Those gaskets should always be replaced, as should any gasket that holds back coolant. Clean the surfaces REALLY well. My preference is a soft wire wheel in a drill. You shouldn't be able to see anything on the surfaces but CLEAN silver metal. Torque the bolts to 12 ft/lbs. As for ignition timing you can do a search on the board. Put the engine at TDC for cylinder 1 and drop the disty in pointing at #1 plug wire on the cap. GD

And read your owners manual before thinking about fixing thing that aren't broken. GD