GeneralDisorder

Wagon chop job - clearly a joke by the looks of it. The yellow wheel covers are pimp tho. GD

Not sure how common it is, but the FSM lists it as a possible poblem. When I was doing all my R&D into the SPFI (I'm about halfway through my write up - 10 pages of just text, no pics up yet), I did a pressure test and I noticed that if I crimped the return line the pressure would spike to 50 psi. Engine still ran, but the idle speed increased about 250 RPM when I crimped it. If the regulator was not keeping the pressure at 21, then the injector wouldn't be able to open (it might still drip some) and crimping the line will take the regulator out of the picture and dead-head the pump pushing the full 50 psi to the injector. Just don't run it this way for more than a few seconds. It didn't hurt anything when I did it, so I'm sure it will be fine for testing purposes. The disty is a possibility as it's an optical crank angle sensor with some fairly sensitive electronics inside it. It might have a problem with the optical pickup circuitry. GD

You can drill the strut tower on the EA81 to accept the 3-bolt legacy strut without any lift blocks or spacers, so that's no problem. The lower control arm has to be reemed out to accept the legacy knuckle style ball joint, but that's not really hard either. Or a custom control arm could be made with a some tubing and an old legacy arm. Tie rod ends should work fine with the legacy knuckles - the EA82 shares the same end ball joint (although the cast portion of the end itself is longer), and they work fine with the legacy knuckle. Brake lines should work basically the same. Something fancy would have to be worked out if you wanted a larger front sway bar as you are using the EA81 lower control arm still, and the legacy sway doesn't mount anywhere close to the same way. Rguyver showed me his solution at the show - he used an old sway bar from his Hemi Cuda, chopped the ends off and make a couple brackets for the control arms. GD

They won't - it's too unreliable for aircraft use. (timing belts ). So no one is willing to pay $15,000 for one to be built. It's also too wide, and too heavy. Broken t-belt at 10,000 feet would SuXor like you wouldn't beleive. And the head design, as well as the silly bolt system that holds it on, is not strong enough for that kind of power without major modifications. The EA81 has very strong heads, and already uses studs for the heads (higher torque is actually possible) Just get an EA81 if you want those parts. It will fit easily in an EA82 body. GD

Gotta love the closed deck, and head studs. Makes the EA82 look pretty pathetic by comparison. GD

Check out the fuel pressure - should be spot on 21 psi at the TB input. It sounds like the pressure regulator on the side of the TB may not be working. If that's the case it's easy to swap them. If you don't have a pressure gauge try this - crimp the fuel return line from the regulator with a pair of vice grips and some qaurters. If it starts shut it off IMMEDIATELY, but that will indicate a bad regulator. GD

Exactly - the rear suspension doesn't change at all in fact - only the hubs, rotors, and brakes get changed to accomidate the 5 lug rims. GD

The belts are not extremely difficult to replace. I would first remove the two outside belt covers and inspect them closer. They should be accesible with a small 10mm wrench or a ratchet and shallow 10mm socket. It can sometimes be hard to feel the belt through the inspection holes, as the belt is above the hole, and you have to use a good amount of finger to feel it. Even if the belt is still on, it's still a good idea to remove the cover and see if any of the teeth have stripped off the belt. That happens sometimes. GD

Bigger, better looking, and lighter rims, and ability to use legacy/impreza front struts mostly. As well as larger sway bars in the front. It's not easy with an EA81 if that's your plan. You wouldn't gain the sway bar options, and you need modifications to the lower control arm to fit the ball joints for the 5 lug knuckles, and then you need custom shorter axles that no one makes (have to cut the shaft, and weld them together with a steel jacket). It is definately possible, but it requires some work that's not just bolt on. GD

The flange surface where the y-pipe mounts is a machined surface, and depending on application could be milled shorter if needed. So it may be a difference in the post-casting milling process used - just as the passenger side EGR port is not drilled out. But if you look at the heads side-by-side you will see that the casting is the same for both. They are milled, drilled, and tapped differently depending on left or right side application, but the overall casting will be the same. Makes the engines cheaper to produce. GD

Yeah - it was definately different than my other D/R I had to look at, and also different from the single range we pulled out. The extension housing is actually a different casting with a switch on the side in a similar location to where the pushbutton cable lever is on the other tranny's I have. I'm guessing they originally put the low range switch on the tranny itself, and then later when the push-button came out they changed the houseing and just put the low range switch on the shift lever instead to facilitate only using one casting for both trannies.... For whatever reason, this tranny was missing that switch, and we didn't notice it till it started losing fluid. GD

The castings should be identical - the lower y-pipe on one side could be due to a bolt-on spacer under the head. Some EA81's had a similar setup where the y-pipe was shorter on one side. EA81's also had the same situation where some engines had a single ASV, and some had one on each head. I've owned both types on both engines. I've had plenty of these engines apart, including an 87 with a single ASV just like yours, and in all cases the head castings were identical. Lots of engines had the EGR without the anti-afterburn tube. That's also common as some vehicle were not equipped with the same decel system to releive engine vacuum under closed throttle coasting. Cam tower seals should definately be checked. Being an 87 carb it's very possible is has only the rubber o-rings instead of the rubber/metal rings that prevent them from collapsing. Good chance to clean the lifters, and reseal the cam tower and rocker cover anyway. GD

CTS - coolant temp sensor. The one for the ECU, not the one for the guage. It will have a green connector, and it's below and behind the thermostat housing. Clean that MAF with some brake cleaner - works great for me. GD

No - it's -7lbs, meaning he had 7 lbs taken off the EA82 flywheel. Which probably made it somwhere around 20 lbs (but that's just a guess). GD

Do the normal stuff - plugs, wires, cap and rotor, pcv valve. Clean your MAF, check the TPS for proper operation, and check the CTS for proper readout when cold and hot. If that doesn't cure it, replace the oxygen sensor. If it's still there, run a D-Check and check for codes from the ECU GD

How's the PCV system? Are you using a custom manifold? The PCV system needs to be routed correctly or the engine will suck oil from it. If you are using a stock manifold get a new PCV valve from the dealer. Aftermarket valve's are known to cause oil consumption. GD

I've told you this before - non-feedback carbed EA82's have a single ASV on the drivers side head, and nothing on the passenger side. That's stock. Heads are all the same casting regardless of SPFI, carb, or even right and left. There is ONE casting used for all, and the needed ports are drilled out at the factory. Some carbs came with 2 ASV's, and some with only 1. Depends on if it needed to meet California emissions or not. Pistons make the compression - 9:1 in carb land, and 9.5:1 in SPFI land. Heads are all the same. Only difference on the SPFI are pistons, valve springs, and cam. GD

Actually I coat the gasket in RTV and then just let it fully cure before I install it. Just a very thin layer rubbed all over the surface with my finger, and let it dry for an hour or so. This way it doesn't stick to anything either. Basically I'm just making my own rubberized pan gasket. GD

For the price of them, you should send your's here and have it rebuilt: http://www.philbingroup.com/ The bearings can be replaced, but the older units have to be done by a machince shop. The post you are speaking of is talking about the fuel injection crank angle distributor, which can be done much easier. You can swap over to the fuel injection and use that FI distributor too - cost would be about the same as a new disty for the carb. GD

We replaced it. I'm thinking it may be some of the seals around the shift rods.... weather has been nasty here so it's hard to tell. GD

They are hooked into the coolant passages as well, and when they leak internally the steam gets inside the crankcase and will condense around the breather tubes were cold air is drawn from the intake. GD

I never change plugs. I clean them with a points file, regap them and throw them back in. Back in the day when plugs were expensive the old timers had plug cleaners that used compressed air and sand to clean them up. We still had a cleaner in our tool truck at my national guard unit up till a few years ago when it got thrown out. GD

Very good sign of a bad intake manifold gasket. I've seen it quite a few times. Get them from the dealer only. GD

I would be afraid of the cork being somewhat porus enough to prevent the anaerobic sealant from setting up. Anaerobic is generally only used for extremely close tollerance machined surfaces - like the mating between the block halves - my understanding is that it's not at all for use with any form of gasket material. I coat all my pan gaskets with a thin layer of RTV (both sides and the edges) to protect the cork from absorbing oil, and from being cooked hard and brittle. Works good for me anyway, and a LOT cheaper than anaerobic which for similar sized tubes is about 3 or 4 times as expensive as the highest quality Permatex RTV. GD

Yeah - this one was just old apparently. It looked ok, but he said the new seal had a lot more "suction" when he slid the driveshaft in. No rust or anything - the driveshafts were done before all the wet weather started around here. New seal was like $7 GD