GeneralDisorder

The pressure plate, being hydrualic, will probably be much too strong for the EA81 cable setup. Maybe retro-fit an EJ pedal and hydrualic assembly. Might also have the make a custom fork and release bearing, and I *think* the flywheel for the EJ is considerably thinner so you may need a spacer to move the flywheel back a bit. This is actually one of the reasons it's possible to build the adaptor plates from EJ to EA transmissions - the extra 1/2" of the adaptor plate is compenstated for by the extra thickness of the EA flywheel.... GD

Could you maybe get a pic of the EA81 that's got SPFI? I would love to see how that's setup... Also - what do you suppose they would charge for the ECU from it? All our "vortex's" were EA82's. Any idea how the EA81 SPFI was rated for HP and such? Sorry for the 20 questions, but in the US there really isn't much information on this stuff. GD

GCK Ftw. They do not suck. Better than the OEM ones possibly. GD

That's true - but it's not difficult to rig up a little longer hot-air riser from the exhaust as the Hitachi has - just need a little longer "flexi-hose" thing. Almost all backfireing is related to either the Air Suction Valves, or leaks in the exhaust. None of my Weber's backfire - have you blocked the ASV ports with quarters or welded them up? GD

Weber all the way. The "kit" comes with the 2.5" filter, but that often does not fit, and you have to pick up the 1.75" one for $12 or so. I don't personally like the Redline "kit". I just get the carb (usually used, and do the rebuild myself) and the base-plate seperately. The kit doesn't come with the right air filter, and doesn't have anything in it other than the base adaptor, carb (properly jetted and NEW, which is nice) and filter that doesn't fit. EA81's are easy to do Weber's on. If you buy the kit then it should just start right up and require minimal tuning. If you get a used one you may have to change some jets, and do a little more tuning. Heck, even the EA82's aren't that hard. I even have mine setup with the AC idle up working although that did require a little welding and such. Most EA81's I can install a Weber in 2 hours or less. GD

+1 - carbide will cut it easily. Dremel will work too if you don't have a proper die grinder. GD

Yes - and farm supply places are good too. GD

Yeah - I have no love for being the "towee". It has much of the "suckage" GD

Well - the "crank" circuit is VERY simple. I would deal with that circuit top to bottom as my first troubleshooting step. You might solve all your problems when you find the problem there. Check the fuseable links first as pointed out - that's an easy one. Also check the battery terminals. If all that checks out, pull the plastic under the column and take a look at the pink 6 prong connector for the ignition switch itself - sometimes there is so much heat from repeat cranking attempts that the wires will melt the plastic and short out. If you find nothing still, then install a relay on the firewall near the starter. Power it with a fused 12 guage from the battery positive to the solenoid terminal on the starter. Use the existing wire going to the starter terminal to control the relay. Basically you are using the existing ignition switch crank circuit to power up the relay which will give the starter perfect, clean power directly from the battery and by-pass the corroded, pitted contacts of the ignition switch. See the link above the Dearon gave for more info on this. Having to add a relay here is VERY common. It's so common in fact that at the show this year I started someone's car with a small jumper wire because their switch went bad and would only click. GD

All my ECU's turn on the pump for just a few secconds when you power the ECU up. You might just have a quiet pump or are too busy getting it started.... GD

Not very wise, as they can come apart. A flailing driveshaft can cause pretty gnarly damage. Beleive me, I've had it happen 3 times now - 4 if you count that one rear axle.... it made such a racket I pulled over and took it out though. GD

I've flat towed with a strap locally using many different EA series subaru's. As long as the towee know's how to do his job on the Brakes, and you carry some two-way radio's it's generally fine. Slow speeds, lots of hand signals, etc. Wrap the ends of the strap in duct tape over a peice of sliced radiator hose to prevent the strap from chafing on any body parts, and to keep it from falling off the tow hook. With a strap it's doable - because rolling weight is not the same as towing weight, and because you have the added stopping ability of the towee's braking system. In some ways it's actually prefereable to have a marginally larger vehicle being towed this way as it will have larger brakes. You also completely eliminate the tendancy for a large trailer to "push" the rear end under brakeing, and the two cars being not hard linked together helps with emergency stoping. *I* would probably do it, but NOT with a trailer, tow bar, or dolly. ONLY with a strap, another expert at strap towing in the towee vehicle, and long distances I would probably shy away from. I've done 50 miles or so with a strap and it gets on your neves after a while. GD

+1, but I like to use white lithium grease in the spray can - good for door locks, hinges, and other stuff that comes in contact with moisture a lot. GD

It's not the compressor I'm refering to - it's the compressor belt clutch. It does have a switch - that's how the compressor is turned on and off when you select AC or Defrost. Now that I think on it, there probably is a switch for the regular fan. I think the regular radiator fan is supposed to cut on when the AC is turned on as well. No idea where that's located tho. GD

Interstate makes the optima, and they make a regular "Interstate" branded unit with the same specs. I'm partial to Interstate batteries myself - not specifically the optima's, but like anything, you pay for the extra cool name, and the colored plastic. Look for a regular Interstate dealer. GD

Yep - that's how I do it. GD

I like to run a 4 guage "battery cable" from the output of the alt directly to the positive terminal of the battery. The stock wires usually look pretty bad after 20 years, and although I redo the terminal lug also, the extra large wire seems to help especially if you have a lot of high-draw accesories. GD

Not *always*, but 20 years takes it's toll for sure. If you reseal them properly with quality gaskets and such they last a long time before they start leaking again. GD

IIRC, the door ajar/dinger switch is part of the lock mechanism on the EA82. The cold weather may have been the final straw for some small plastic bit in there. I can't see a way for the switch to cause the low voltage situation... the switch might ground out in the door, but that would cause a fuse to blow. Here's a question for you - does the dome light stay on when you have the dome switch all the way to the rear? And does it stay on when you close your door with no key in the ignition? If so I would say you are almost certainly looking at the door switch as the problem. I had the wire to the door switch on my Brat get pinched by the plastic trim on the bottom of the door and it would randomely cause a similar problem with my drivers door - but only in wet weather, and only sometimes. I finally located my culprit when running a new fuel pump wire for another project. GD

There is a pressure switch, but it wouldn't tell you if the AC was turned on or not. It's only there to cut the AC off if the system loses refrigerant charge. So if you wired to that, then the fan would just be on at all times. I'm sure there is some relay's you could use also, but I'm not sure where they are located. Basically if the clutch is powered, then the AC is on. I would use the clutch power wire to power a fused relay circuit for your second fan. It's easy to get to, and it's in the same area as your fan will be. GD

I'm dancing for no more pointless, word-salad posts. And for no more "invisibles". Along with the beutifully succesful auto to D/R swap that left my garage with a happy owner today - this makes my day AND it was payday today.... man Oct 1st is AWESOME. GD

He said he already cleaned it - he just mixed up the acronym in his first thread. Thus I sugested the idle switch in the TPS. You'll probably have to remove the AC and alternator bracket, and when you put it back together it would be wise to leave the bottom screw out of the picture for the TPS. GD

Sure - works just fine if you use only the stub from the bad axle. Getting the axles apart is more work than replacing them tho. GD

It's a lot like the EGR and Purge solenoids of the SPFI system - it will look just like them and it's somewhere on the manifold. There are probably a couple of them. Also, is this an EA81 or EA82? The feedback systems are not the same between the two. GD

What possible difference would it make anyway? Seems totally pointless to me. GD