GeneralDisorder

Closer to $90 I heard from another thread GD

The plate will remain vertical for a while after the engine is shut down (maybe about an hour). You'll have to check it when it's completely cold. The engine acts as a heat sink, and slowly releases heat into the carb and the choke spring resulting in the choke spring taking quite a while to cool down. That's as it should be though. The power should be there anytime the ignition is on. Sounds like you definately have power to it anyway. GD

Sadly, on the Hitachi the idle mixture is usually "pinned" so you can't change it. Some rebuilders may leave the pin out - especially if they think you are going to need to change it. The adjustment is on the bottom of the front of the carb. Burried behind the power steering pump where you won't be able to get to it. :-\ They aren't supposed to be adjusted, so there isn't a provision for getting to it really. If the car is shaking like that, it's a pretty good indication of a vacuum leak or a really badly adusted idle mixture. (or ignition). Did you look down into the carb and see the plate wide open or something? You did pump the gas a few times right? I would imagine that it IS working.... I can't imagine the rebuilder would have adjusted it in such a way that the car wouldn't start in 40 degree weather. That just doesn't seem possible unless they are totally inept. The choke isn't adjustable anyway - it's held in place with a brass pin and rivets - it's not designed to be moved. GD

It happens - about every other time I pull one I would say. I just tap them over though. Saves me loads on heli-coils. It's one of those things you learn to live with on a Subaru GD

Sounds like it needs a serious tune up. Mileage should be at least 25. Lowest I've ever got is about 27 something in my 86 sedan. With the Weber it's got now the mileage it around 29-30, and that's WITH AC, power steering, etc. It's loaded. Changing the power steering won't help at all. The pump doesn't do anything really unless you are turning the wheel and even then it's not even 1 HP worth. My Brat has no power steering, and compared to my sedan the mileage is identical. If you have no AC then you don't need the clutch fan. It wasn't installed unless the car had AC anyway. GD

At 40 degrees it's probably not the choke that's causing your problem. As long as the plate is closed and has a little spring to it when you push in on it the engine should start. You said it has a rough idle - possibly a vacuum leak or idle mixture adjustment.... spray around with some carb cleaner and see if the idle changes - that will locate vacuum leaks for you. How's your ignition system? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs? Rough idle and hard starting can be related to a weak spark too. I hate to say it, but the Hitachi carbs are terrible. They aren't worth the metal they are cast of, they are especially difficult to rebuild, and besides all that they are gutless. I have the patience for most anything that's worth doing right, and I've rebuilt more Hitachi's than I care to remember. I tossed them all in a dumpster one fine day, and I now have one with SPFI and two with Weber's - all of them originally had Hitachi's. The Weber is simple, rugged, and a LOT more powerful than the Hitachi. My sugestion to you is to sell that Hitachi (ebay, here in the for sale forum, etc), and get a used Weber and a rebuild kit. I can rebuild a Weber in about 1 hour and have it running better than a new Hitachi. Last one I did for my sedan cost $190 total - that's including a used carb ($80), two new jets, brand new electric choke, complete redline rebuild kit, and the adaptor plate. GD

Double Offset Joint - it's the inner joint on the front axle. Outer joint is a CV, or Constant Velocity Joint. Both are technically CV's, but the DOJ is a special type of CV. GD

Pretty easy job really. 1. Put it on jack stands. 2. Remove the Inner lower control arm bolt. 3. Disconnect the sway bar link. 4. Knock the pin out of the DOJ cup with a 3/16" pin puch. 5. Pull axle off tranny. 6. Remove old boot from DOJ cup, pop out the cir-clip and remove the cup. 7. Remove spring clip from end of axle and slide the joint off. 8. Replace boots 9. Reassemble in reverse order. (remember to grease stuff properly) There's some info that will be usefull in my axle write up. Take a look here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html Don't even have to pull the tire off. GD

Interestingly, my impressions of the SPFI EA81 was that it was on-par with a Weber swap. But can be cheaper if you source your parts right. I'm currently running a full SPFI EA82 in my Brat (EA81 is almost back together), and with the SPFI tuned up properly it's pretty damn fast. 90 HP is a bigger increase from 74 than I thought - especially in the Brat's light frame. 16 HP is not an insignificant amount I'll tell ya. Driveability is VERY nice. It drives like a perfectly tuned Weber, but without the "little" cues that tell you it's a carb. The pedal isn't as "touchy". It's hard to explain, but it's like driving a newer car in a way. The BIG difference (and the part that makes it not *just* fancy carburetion) is that the SPFI is capable of adjusting itself to the flow of the engine - open the exhaust for a little better flow and the ECU compensates with more fuel for more air. That's the purpose of the Mass Airflow Sensor - it detects the incoming air mass and adjusts fuel accordingly to acheive optimal mixture ratio for any given RPM. The engine is at it's core a big air pump - with the SPFI you don't have to worry about jetting a carb - that's the whole point. Rather than a fixed mixture system, the computer is there to calculate it based on sensor input. Here's what I sugest. 1. Do the SPFI swap. 2. Convert to Mega-Squirt (I'll be working on a write up for that in the next 6 months or so when I get all my MS bits built) 3. Drop ANY engine you want in the car. I sugest the JDM EJ20 DOHC. They can be had for cheap, and are 150 HP stock to the EJ22's 135. They are cheap because it's "hard" to use them in the states because import engines don't come with wireing harnesses or ECU's..... but that's not a problem with MS - just upload new settings into your ECU, drop the engine in and go. Once the vehicle is MS, it can handle ANYTHING you want. Want an EJ20G? No problem. Want to turbo an EJ22? MS has you covered up to 25 psi boost. Want a chev V6?..... endless possibilities and you will never again have to worry about wiring. Personally just being able to use cheap import engines like the EJ20 NA that we never got here in the states is enough of a benefit. GD

Yeah - those short studs seem to be especially troublesome on the EA82's (EA81's had longer studs because of the ASV spacers). In lieu of the heli-coil's (which are out-of-budget more times than not I've found) you can tap the threads over to 7/16"x20 and use a bolt instead. No drilling is required, and if a return to the original size is wanted later, the heli-coil will still be possible. GD

Without that attitude, YOU would be banging two rocks together for fire. You certainly wouldn't have a subaru, or at the very least not one that would have lasted long enough to drive itself off the boat, let alone still be around and taking your neanderthal punishments with vice grips. If you don't like our answers then find your own. Sorry, but I've been here long enough to have seen each and every problem you have posted 10 times before, and in the case of ticking HLA's at LEAST 100 times before (no exageration). It's been discussed, torn apart, mangled and hashed. There is nothing new under the sun to discuss about it. I've owned on the order of 10+ EA82's, I've dealt with and conquered HLA problems on half of them at least. (note: I know this post will do no good at all, but what can I say? I see a helicopter accident and I can't look away ) GD

Thanks! more pictures to come, and I just remembered I need to address the upper radiator hose in there somewhere. Totally forgot about that part.... GD

13$?!?!?! IIRC (which I often don't ) they are a little over $3 from the dealer, maybe $4 and some change if you don't get wholesale.... But inspect the ones you have - usually I can re-use them if they aren't too old, and are OEM metal style. If you can see where the cardboard is starting to burn away, or evidence of carbon escaping, then replace them. GD

What ford? Have you tried it to see if it will fit? Typically, Subaru's have a very narrow fan area, and also a very short (height wise) radiator that doesn't lend itself to many other fan variations. Are you looking to replace the water pump clutch fan? The air conditioning fan from an EA81 subaru will fit. You need the fan to come on both with temp, and anytime the AC kicks on (ie: defrost). The AC pump needs the airflow to prevent overheating. GD

Cam is not the same. Solid lifter, hydro lifter, and turbo (also hydro, but different compression) all had different cams. That is they have a different lift and duration. It will physically fit, but it won't be the right grind. GD

And yes - it would get typically bad mileage as the ECU goes rich when it can't find a sensor. If you rip off the solenoids entirely they get about 18 - 20 MPG because the carbs are jetted very rich and then the solenoids are used to restrict the flow as needed. GD

100% positive. The 02 is the only real sensor it's got. Besides having owned two of them, I have the FSM open on my desk.... Y-pipe could have been replaced before you got it. Look for the 02 connector in the harness right above the tranny. GD

Should remain there for the time being. Barring any changes to my ISP. Feel free to link to it as much as you like. You guys didn't even get SPFI I thought? GD

There's a few of them - there's the XT's ribbed belt style with the different reservior. There's the EA81T pump which is the same as early EA82, and there are two types of pulley mountings on the EA82's.... I would say there's probably 4 pumps... maybe a picture would help us ID it.... GD

It does have a narrow band 02 sensor, a coolant temp sensor, and it uses the tach signal to determine engine RPM. With a carb that's really all it needs (TPS wouldn't be useful because in a carb fuel flow is accomplished with engine vacuum, not an injector). It uses two "duty solenoids", a main, and a slow speed solenoid. These are switched on and off rapidly (as in many times per second) by the ECU. The frequency (or duty cycle) of the solenoids determines the amount of engine vacuum that is allowed to act on the fuel flow. If the 02 goes lean from stoichiometric, the duty cycle increases and allows more fuel in, and if it goes rich it works the other way. Despite all the vacuum lines, the system is extremely simple in design - the duty solenoids rarely fail, and most problems are related to bad vacuum lines, bad 02 sensor or CTS. GD

+1000.... can we make that his avatar? GD

No - the EA81T disty is for use with the flapper-door MAF system used in the 83 to 86 turbo and MPFI vehicles. It has a vacuum advance can on the side, and triggers the coil directly like a carb distributor. You can send me the harness if you like. I can get it converted anytime you are ready. Send me a PM and we'll talk. GD

Just unplug the temp sensor and try it. Or test it with a MM. It's right there on the side of the thermostat housing. Two prong green connector. GD

I haven't the first clue as to what my yards are going to charge me for these. I'm *hoping* it's not too bad, but the weather here has been terrible (they are saying 80 MPH winds tonight ). And it does somewhat depend on what all you want done. If you just want the harness or if you want my to do the fuses and relays like I've done with mine.... I would guess that for just a plain harness with everything stripped, labeled, and zip tied (similar to what you see in the labeled picture on my write up) it would be about $50 in labor to get it to that state, plus whatever the cost is for me to buy the thing (rough estimate $25?? + $2 entry fee) and then shipping (probably around $8 or so). It takes about 2 hours to make the trip to the yard, find one that's suitable, get it pulled, and back home again - then about 2 more hours to strip it, organize the wires, and then label and properly route all the new connections. I don't like to wrap them in tubing and tape till they are instaleled in case you want to move something around, extend some wires or chagne the location of a component, etc. So rough estimate of $85 or so assuming the yard doesn't bend me over too hard (it's a HUGE bundle of wire to walk up to the counter with :-\). If you want to pull the harness and send it to me, I'll do the wireing and send it back for $35 plus shipping. I'm going to try and find some more suitable relay/fuse boxes - those mitsubishi eclipse boxes are awesome, but I don't know how many I can source. Most of the under-hood boxes I see are huge, with way too many fuses and relays to be of use. The mitsu AC one is just right, and even uses the same fuses and relays as the EA81/EA82. I need to find other similar ones. The Mitsu one isn't wired anything close to correctly inside, but with some creative re-engineering with my soldering iron and some JB-weld I was able to make use of every spot in it. It's got the SPFI fuseable link, two fused, relay controlled circuits, and the coil capacitor all in one little package. If I can find more, I'll try to make them availible for sale. Probably be about $35 each for those as they aren't easy to find and I have to spend an hour inside it rewiring the whole thing. GD

Save the doors off the hatch if you have space for them - they are the same as Brat doors, and aren't real easy to come by. Lots of Brat folks that might want them. Also if the rear window latches are good take those off as they are rare and break easy. Remove any lights and lenses that are good. Hatch's are the second most popular EA81 body besides the Brat - lots of folks looking for them. You might even ask around on the board here and see if someone has an EA82 they might trade you. The Hatch is worth more as a complete car. Engine should just bolt up pretty much. You will have to use the EA82 flywheel and clutch assembly - just put the flywheel up there, and you'll see where to grind on the bottom of the bell-housing for it to fit. Use the EA82 manifold and carb - theres a few spots to grind to make the fit as well, but nothing serious. Just fit it on and you will see. GD