GeneralDisorder

Fel-Pro all the way. Dealer only for intake, exhaust, oil pump, pan, and rocker covers. GD

Look for something with a Toyota or Suzuki offset. The chevy offset will stick out about 2" past the fenders. The stock 90's yota rims are about the same as the Subaru offset. GD

How many miles since the re-ring? It usually takes 500 or so for them to wear in.... you might find out what grit bottle brush they used. I'm assuming you got the sintered iron rings? I've only used the chrome ones from Fed-Mog myself..... they must have ordered the wrong part number or something. GD

I'll make a big hairy post about it - both here for the write up, and probably in the vendors section for the harnesses and distributors. Initially I'm doing the harness and disty, but for people that ask I might be convinced to box up an entire setup and ship it - mostly that's for folks in the areas where soobs are scarce though because around the west coast we have a ton of them. At any given time there are at least 2 dozen EA82's at each of the 3 yards closest to me, and that's not counting the small yards I don't frequent unless I really need something bad and can't find it. And these days most are SPFI it seems. I took more pictures today, and things are looking good. I've sent the link to a couple people for review and sugestions. It's not ready yet, but I'll probably release the link here in a few days even before it's totally finshed. I need to get to the yard for another harness to do a pictorial step-by-step of the harness conversion process, but the weather here is REALLY, REALLY bad. Tropical storm bad - I just got back from the store, and 100 yards before the the on-ramp that I used, there was a semi trailer on it's side, and a couple cars spun out of control - cops everywhere..... just a freakin mess. GD

Answer: Square peg, round hole, big hammer, low MQ (mechanical quotient). GD

Did they at least do a bottle brush hone on the cylinder walls? It could be that the new rings haven't broken in yet. GD

Compression really isn't all that important - he's about 30-40 psi off from a new engine, and by the sound of the oil usage his valve stem seals are shot, and probably the seats are burnt causing the slight pressure reduction. But really, comp. numbers aren't that important for the engine to run, and won't by themselves cause the FI any problems at all. The SPFI system is capable of adjusting for any number of problems, and will run better than a carb simple because the carb is still jetted for a new engine and the SPFI is capable of adjusting itself to a somewhat worn engine. First rule on compression numbers is that the NUMBER itself doesn't matter (within reason), it's the percentage of difference between the cylinders that makes all the difference. An engine with 80 psi on each cylinder will run fine as long as all 4 are the same or similar. And surprisingly it won't really lose all that much power - remember the engine rotates at about 1000 RPM minimum - 80 psi at starter crank speed (which even with the plugs out is around 200 RPM) is going to be MUCH higher at 1000 RPM. Compression tests are good, but people put way too much stock in the number, when all that really matters is the percentage difference. GD

I've had excelent results with the POR family of products, and they make a gas tank product..... http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/COMPLETEKITS/FUELTANKREPAIRKIT/tabid/106/Default.aspx I totally understand - the roof glass is going to be near impossible to find in a yard. In 5 years of fairly constant yard runs, I've seen only 2 Brats, and both were in a yard 2 hours from me. I would ask about the roof glass in the wanted forum. The front grill and headlights... you want the plastic surrounds that go around the lights? I'm sure I'll run across some good ones eventually, but EA81's in general are getting more scarce in the yards here.... Tanks I can find (Brat and Wagon/Sedan tank are the same) - mostly because we don't have rust here so no one wants them. I'll keep my eyes out for some for ya. GD

Yeah - sounds like the tank is dirty perhaps. The smaller one is the return, larger the supply. So that's correct. Usually if you take the pump loose from the supply with a tank of gas, it will start siphoning out all over you - so it sounds to me like you have something blocking the pickup tube. Probably best, if you suspect any rust at all, to just drop the tank and clean it all out inside. If the rust isn't too bad you can treat it with one of those tank liner products. Otherwise it might be time for a new tank. I can usually get them here at my yards - they don't pucnture them here, and they are already removed and put in the trunk of the car. I'm not sure on the cost but I'll ask when I head over there. GD

Make your hook rod long enough that you can give it a whack with a hammer. Make it 10 feet long, and have a friend hold one end, and you can hammer on the other end :-p GD

Yeah - they still had high end and low end loyales. I just did a tranny and engine swap with a friend and his old one didn't have tilt steering, or power seatbelts, and the new one did - both were 92's by registration. They definately weren't all the same. I wonder if they were just throwing together whatever GL/DL parts they had at the warehouse.... heh. GD

Not bad - not bad at all. That's exactly what I would do for a daily driver wagon. I agree that as long as it's well coated, and the rust is treated there's no problem with using aluminium plate. Easier to work with too. What's the white goop you used? Is it cheap? I haven't ever had to do panel replacements, but if I did, I would think some combination of POR-15, primer, and then some Hurculiner on top for durability... but I overkill things pretty often. GD

Yeah.... but he has a turbo car, so the SPFI picture won't really help him. He doesn't have an IAC like that.... I'm not sure what the MPFI's have, but it's different. GD

It's true I suppose in one sense - they aren't expensive cars - heck even the STi and the Tribeca aren't *expensive* in the BIG picture. But what he fails to realize is that HIS ford is no Ferrari Modena either. He's fallen into the trap of assuming that just because I drive an old Subaru, I must not be able to afford anything else, and that because I *work* on it I must not be able to afford a mechanic to do it for me, or that for some reason I need the money. In fact, I had him pinned as an idiot for buying that house in the first place - it's tiny (less than 2000 sqr. ft), built in like 1985, and he paid $275,000 for it . What really pisses me off is his blind stupidity to the obviousness of the situation - I own, amongst my Subaru collection, a lifted 84 wagon with "ATLAS 4X4" written in huge white letters across the windsheild that's right on the corner of the street - the only corner - the one he MUST pass to leave every single day for work. It's been dripping with mud since August, and is still full of camp gear..... then there's my Brat.... How many clues does he need that I'm clearly an "Enthusiast"? That's ok though - he'll see what happens if he tries to borrow a tool from me. Since the guy in the house he bought died last year, I'm the only one on the street with an engine hoist AFAIK. Frankly, I really don't care what he thinks. Hell I don't really care what *most* people think. It's why I'm comfortable driving my Brat. Anyone can press on the accelerator pedal of a ginormous gas hog - but for most of the people that really try to get your attention that way there isn't much to see when they step out of their steel cage. My car brings ME, I don't bring my car. When I step out of the Brat in my ARMY uniform - beleive me - people aren't looking at the car . I guess he must feel really insecure that he needs to drive a rolling hazzard sign. GD

Good to know - I'll ask him how he likes it. Thing sure is loud going up and down my street . Then the guy parks his monster RV sized trailer (not kidding - it's enourmous - this guy has the smallest ____ in history I'm sure) across from my driveway. Chock's the wheels with a hunk of wood and leaves it there for a week. Mind you he lives three houses down... The nice neighbor lady chewed him out for parking it in front of the neighborhood watch sign which I had just trimmed some branches away from per her request. It now takes up his entire driveway , and his poor 350 is on the street under his daft basketball hoop. I can't wait for him to stop and talk to me... "Hey - how's it going neighbor?".... "Great! I just aquired another poor person's car - want to see it?" GD

It's *his* own personal hell. Clearly he's not secure with his masculinity, so eternal hell for him is being seen in a Brat. He can't drive his lifted Excursion anymore so in his mind everyone that looks at him is looking right through his clothes to his shortcommings. I feel sorry for people that spend their life compensating for what they feel society says they should have but don't. I have quite a few of them living down my street. It's sad . So the guy that just moved in down the street from me (drives a HUGE lifted yellow F-350 with Nitto's) was chatting with my neighbor and after asking if I was a mechanic working on people's subaru's for money (I'm not, but I have a lot of them) he said that I should work on some "nice" cars because Subaru's are for poor people..... you can imagine my reaction GD

You might still get spark with a bad disty - the optical sensor could be giving the ECU a strange signal. GD

Yeah - you can make a hook out of some thin bar stock and pull them out. I have a tool made by Shadow (he's not around much anymore on this board) that uses a split-arbor device to grab them and pull them out. It's an interesting device, but you need at least a small lathe and mill to make one.... Make your hook with a bend in the end that you can use a claw hammer on to "lever" the pins out. GD

Hey! what a small world - me too, and I have two of them! Plus I know how it works! GD

All hot-wire MAF EA82 FI distributors are the same - regardless of SPFI, MPFI or Turbo. Just don't get anything from a flapper-door MAF and you'll be fine. GD

I've done it, and not only that, but soon I'm going to offer partial and maybe full kits to do the coversion yourself - I'll be making wireing harnesses, and distributors as well as putting a few full kits together. I'm working on a write up as we speak - so far it's about 12 pages long with just the text, and I haven't added any pictures yet. I just finished taking about 30 pics and the write up will be ready for a version 1 release soon. A small demostration: GD

Pistons, and shaved heads. You can easily get 10:1 with SPFI EA82 pistons, and shaved heads. 100 HP would be easily acheivable with the SPFI, and a high-compression EA81 with a modified cam. And it would be perfectly reliable - no question about that. The JDM EA81 dual carb's were 108 HP stock on the same internals. Reliability isn't a problem like it is with the EA82's. The Subaru race spec EA82T's were 175 HP, and here's RAM showing 200 HP on an engine reliable enough not only for race, but for an aircraft engine. That's impressive and speaks volumes about the advantages the EA81 has over the EA82 in some very fundamental ways. GD

I've got 4" of "extra" stress on my EA81 rear axles. Since I swapped to EA82 DOJ cups I've haven't broken a single one - and that's with a welded diff. Been running them for about 2 years now. GD

On a stock EA81 - probably around 85 or so - as much as you get from a Weber anyway - better driveability, no finicky choke or jets to contend with, and the possibility of Mega-squirt for tuning more heavily modified engines. But the benefit isn't just power - SPFI runs at ANY angle as long as the fuel tank can suck gas. Won't sputter out on steep hills like a carb will so you have full power and correct mixture off road no matter how hard you shake the rig. It also already has a round air filter attachment that lends itself to simpler snorkel installations, and as you add modifications to your engine (better exhaust, high torque cam, SPFI pistons, etc, etc) the SPFI system is self-compensating for changes in engine airflow and fuel demand. The SPFI EA82 is rated at 90 HP but has larger valves, more compression, and cams to match. I would give the SPFI a good 10 HP increase over a stock carb on the EA81 (so about 85 or so), and as above - it's about the same increase a Weber will give you, but in a far superior package. GD

Definately - stock they were 95 HP, but with a little tuning and some head porting, etc they can easily outrun a stock EA82T at 115 HP, and I would imagine 120 or a little more isn't out of the question on stock internals. That supercharged RAM engine is using modified stock heads, full 9.7:1 compression, and 7 psi of boost with no intercooler. Try that on an EA82T GD