GeneralDisorder

Without that attitude, YOU would be banging two rocks together for fire. You certainly wouldn't have a subaru, or at the very least not one that would have lasted long enough to drive itself off the boat, let alone still be around and taking your neanderthal punishments with vice grips. If you don't like our answers then find your own. Sorry, but I've been here long enough to have seen each and every problem you have posted 10 times before, and in the case of ticking HLA's at LEAST 100 times before (no exageration). It's been discussed, torn apart, mangled and hashed. There is nothing new under the sun to discuss about it. I've owned on the order of 10+ EA82's, I've dealt with and conquered HLA problems on half of them at least. (note: I know this post will do no good at all, but what can I say? I see a helicopter accident and I can't look away ) GD

Thanks! more pictures to come, and I just remembered I need to address the upper radiator hose in there somewhere. Totally forgot about that part.... GD

13$?!?!?! IIRC (which I often don't ) they are a little over $3 from the dealer, maybe $4 and some change if you don't get wholesale.... But inspect the ones you have - usually I can re-use them if they aren't too old, and are OEM metal style. If you can see where the cardboard is starting to burn away, or evidence of carbon escaping, then replace them. GD

What ford? Have you tried it to see if it will fit? Typically, Subaru's have a very narrow fan area, and also a very short (height wise) radiator that doesn't lend itself to many other fan variations. Are you looking to replace the water pump clutch fan? The air conditioning fan from an EA81 subaru will fit. You need the fan to come on both with temp, and anytime the AC kicks on (ie: defrost). The AC pump needs the airflow to prevent overheating. GD

Cam is not the same. Solid lifter, hydro lifter, and turbo (also hydro, but different compression) all had different cams. That is they have a different lift and duration. It will physically fit, but it won't be the right grind. GD

And yes - it would get typically bad mileage as the ECU goes rich when it can't find a sensor. If you rip off the solenoids entirely they get about 18 - 20 MPG because the carbs are jetted very rich and then the solenoids are used to restrict the flow as needed. GD

100% positive. The 02 is the only real sensor it's got. Besides having owned two of them, I have the FSM open on my desk.... Y-pipe could have been replaced before you got it. Look for the 02 connector in the harness right above the tranny. GD

Should remain there for the time being. Barring any changes to my ISP. Feel free to link to it as much as you like. You guys didn't even get SPFI I thought? GD

There's a few of them - there's the XT's ribbed belt style with the different reservior. There's the EA81T pump which is the same as early EA82, and there are two types of pulley mountings on the EA82's.... I would say there's probably 4 pumps... maybe a picture would help us ID it.... GD

It does have a narrow band 02 sensor, a coolant temp sensor, and it uses the tach signal to determine engine RPM. With a carb that's really all it needs (TPS wouldn't be useful because in a carb fuel flow is accomplished with engine vacuum, not an injector). It uses two "duty solenoids", a main, and a slow speed solenoid. These are switched on and off rapidly (as in many times per second) by the ECU. The frequency (or duty cycle) of the solenoids determines the amount of engine vacuum that is allowed to act on the fuel flow. If the 02 goes lean from stoichiometric, the duty cycle increases and allows more fuel in, and if it goes rich it works the other way. Despite all the vacuum lines, the system is extremely simple in design - the duty solenoids rarely fail, and most problems are related to bad vacuum lines, bad 02 sensor or CTS. GD

+1000.... can we make that his avatar? GD

No - the EA81T disty is for use with the flapper-door MAF system used in the 83 to 86 turbo and MPFI vehicles. It has a vacuum advance can on the side, and triggers the coil directly like a carb distributor. You can send me the harness if you like. I can get it converted anytime you are ready. Send me a PM and we'll talk. GD

Just unplug the temp sensor and try it. Or test it with a MM. It's right there on the side of the thermostat housing. Two prong green connector. GD

I haven't the first clue as to what my yards are going to charge me for these. I'm *hoping* it's not too bad, but the weather here has been terrible (they are saying 80 MPH winds tonight ). And it does somewhat depend on what all you want done. If you just want the harness or if you want my to do the fuses and relays like I've done with mine.... I would guess that for just a plain harness with everything stripped, labeled, and zip tied (similar to what you see in the labeled picture on my write up) it would be about $50 in labor to get it to that state, plus whatever the cost is for me to buy the thing (rough estimate $25?? + $2 entry fee) and then shipping (probably around $8 or so). It takes about 2 hours to make the trip to the yard, find one that's suitable, get it pulled, and back home again - then about 2 more hours to strip it, organize the wires, and then label and properly route all the new connections. I don't like to wrap them in tubing and tape till they are instaleled in case you want to move something around, extend some wires or chagne the location of a component, etc. So rough estimate of $85 or so assuming the yard doesn't bend me over too hard (it's a HUGE bundle of wire to walk up to the counter with :-\). If you want to pull the harness and send it to me, I'll do the wireing and send it back for $35 plus shipping. I'm going to try and find some more suitable relay/fuse boxes - those mitsubishi eclipse boxes are awesome, but I don't know how many I can source. Most of the under-hood boxes I see are huge, with way too many fuses and relays to be of use. The mitsu AC one is just right, and even uses the same fuses and relays as the EA81/EA82. I need to find other similar ones. The Mitsu one isn't wired anything close to correctly inside, but with some creative re-engineering with my soldering iron and some JB-weld I was able to make use of every spot in it. It's got the SPFI fuseable link, two fused, relay controlled circuits, and the coil capacitor all in one little package. If I can find more, I'll try to make them availible for sale. Probably be about $35 each for those as they aren't easy to find and I have to spend an hour inside it rewiring the whole thing. GD

Save the doors off the hatch if you have space for them - they are the same as Brat doors, and aren't real easy to come by. Lots of Brat folks that might want them. Also if the rear window latches are good take those off as they are rare and break easy. Remove any lights and lenses that are good. Hatch's are the second most popular EA81 body besides the Brat - lots of folks looking for them. You might even ask around on the board here and see if someone has an EA82 they might trade you. The Hatch is worth more as a complete car. Engine should just bolt up pretty much. You will have to use the EA82 flywheel and clutch assembly - just put the flywheel up there, and you'll see where to grind on the bottom of the bell-housing for it to fit. Use the EA82 manifold and carb - theres a few spots to grind to make the fit as well, but nothing serious. Just fit it on and you will see. GD

There isn't one for the digi-dash cars - you will have to add one. I reccomend just getting an aftermarket mechanical guage - I got one at wall-mart for like $10 and it seems to work great. You will have to buy a longer section of tubing though. GD

Pull it - you won't get the tranny out if you don't. GD

All the same - I have a turbo crank in the engine I'm building right now. Side-by-side comparison they are identical. I just happened to have the turbo crank already turned, and an oversized bearing set for it so I used it instead. Got it from a board member who's project engine got caught in a garage fire - crank and new bearings were in his rig cause he had just picked them up from the machine shop GD

I really loved my wagon when it was a 2WD 5 speed. I got 33 MPG with the weber. I would love to find a nice 2WD EA81 and put the SPFI on it. They make a great little commuter for good weather states. My EA82 sedan is nice, but the wagon had more character, and was smaller. GD

Thanks for all the support everyone! 75subie: I would reccomend the 87 to 89 black ECU from a 5 speed, but everything else on that Loyale should work fine. You could use the auto ECU, but you will need to fool the ECU's park switch, and inhibitor switch to prevent codes.... if you need one I can get you one around here, or I also have two Loyale 5 speed ECU's if you want to deal with the clutch switch - a Loyale pedal assembly should fit from what I can see, but I haven't actually tried to swap one into an EA81 - it was easier for me to just pick up a GL ECU and only have to worry about the neutral switch. GD

The ECU does not control the fuel pump. The pump is controlled by a Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU) located right above the hood release cable mount under the drivers kick panel. It's got a 6 pin connector on it (only 5 are used on feedback vehicles). It gets ignition power from the accesory circuit to run the pump for like 2 seconds (it's got a timer in it). Then it gets power from the ignition coil positive, and the tach pulse signal from the negative side. If the engine shuts down it cuts power to the pump to prevent fires in case of an accident. The other two pins are fuel pump power, and ground. GD

Could be the door frame itself. On the wagon we just converted from auto to manual the drivers door is like that. On this one it's due to a drunken encounter with a curb by the previous owner. He hit hard enough to crumple the drivers fender and crush the suspension on that side as well. We got it looking decent, but he hasn't tackled the door just yet other than saying it was a bit bent under the wheel well. Then on my Brat I replaced the door, and it's fine, but the window isn't adjusted properly so it's not quite right either. I just have been working on other things and haven't had a chance to adjust it. GD

Total insanity - run away. No 20 year old subaru with an auto is worth that. GD

I'm still tweaking things, and I still need to take some more pictures, but it's ready for people to pick it apart. Here ya go: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html Be prepared to do some reading.... As soon as I get another harness to convert, I'm going to enlarge the harness conversion section with a TON more pictures. The weather is keeping me from it right now, but that should change this next week I hope. GD

Dexron III ATF. GD