GeneralDisorder

RTV, and don't forget to replace the oil passage o-ring with one from the DEALER ONLY. It's not a normal o-ring, but a special metal-reinforced one that won't collapse under pressure. GD

Yeah - we're a pretty tight group here. If you really want to help me, give me a job :-p. I'm an unemployed software engineer, and I've done web development too - PHP, SQL, and even some XSLT . My specialty is heavily optimized x86 assembly, 3D Graphics, and C++, but give me a book and I can do anything. GD

It won't - none of the digi cars have senders. They have the idiot switch that closes at a specified pressure, which IIRC is the "stop at the nearest garage and inquire if they are equipped to shut down the communist gnome weapons factory in your crankshaft" pressure. GD

The typical definition of a seized engine is that it doesn't turn over at all. Usually that refers to the rings overheating (loss of oil), and bonding with the cylinder wall at high speed and temperature. Nasty. If it turns over it's not seized in any sense of the definition that I'm aware of. Unless as mentioned about it's the oil pump itself that seized. I haven't seen that myself, but the only way to check is going to be to tear it down and try to turn the pump pulley. I think that you will be fine - these engines are non-interference and it takes a lot to bring one down. I've ran them 2.5 - 3 quarts low on oil (blown cam seal), and I've ran them without any coolant at all in 90 degree weather (blown heater core hose - don't try that one), and I have never seized one. GD

http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html GD

+1. I remember them too GD

If you could still see oil on the dipstick then it was less than 2 quarts low. Probably not low enough to do any damage. Replace the belts - if it's more damage than just the belts you are looking at a new engine. It's not cost effective to rebuild them when cheap used engines are easily obtained. If that's what you need then you will already have new belts for your new (used) engine. GD

On of his fender flares would cost more than most of my car GD

No - if you block the carb intake, no vacuum will get to the carb to supply fuel. Air will be sucked through the leak, but the engine doesn't run on air alone, so it will die. Carb cleaner when it's sucked into the leak will cause the engine to speed up and smooth out slightly. GD

This will do it every time with ease: VW 36mm axle nut tool for older busses: http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com/volkswagen/beetle/36mm-Rear-Axle-Nut-Removal-Tool-p-17.html GD

Well for the front there are two 22mm? nuts on each strut. Look at the bottom of the big spring, and you will see them on the lower spring perch. You can adjust these up with a big open end wrench but it will screw up your camber something aweful and you will tear through tires with quickness. I sugest you leave them at the stock lowest setting unless you have an off-road only rig or just really like buying tires. The rear has a single torsion tube assembly and there is one BIG adjusting bolt for both wheels. It's located on top of the center of the torsion tube, and you will have to crawl under the car to get at it. This will adjust both rear wheels up or down, and does not affect the camber in any way so feel free to adjust it all you want. It will look really funky with the a$$ end hanging way up in the air tho - beleive me I've tried it. Both of these adjustments are usually covered in rust/scale/underbody coating, and can be a real nasty biotch to work with. PB blaster, BFH, and lots of band aids for your knuckles. GD

A vacuum leak could cause some hard starting, yes. The engine will not want to run when cold with a vac leak. The ignition system can make it hard too. I would check the spark color out of the plugs when it's cold. If I were closer I would take a look at it. It's hard to diagnose stuff like this without being there. I've never personally had one that was *really* hard to start cold. I've had some that will sputter and die when cold unless you keep the RPM's up till it warms a bit, but not in recent years as I've become more adept at fixing stuff like that. It seems that no matter what you do with the Hitachi's they always have some problem. I've had them run as perfect as they were when new, only to have the float get stuck and strand me somewhere. I rebuilt that carb 7 times and it would work perfect for 2 or 3 months then one day the float would stick on it. Happened 5 or 6 times and I just got fed up and threw it in the trash. GD

Yeah - it is. I was just mentioning it for posterity I guess. I suppose it's due to flatter axle angles - both from the reduced stock ground clearance, and the longer axles. The joints themselves are virtually identical. The higher angles of the EA81's make them beasts off-road, but it doesn't do nice things to the axles. I've gone to using the GCK's in my EA81's as they are just amazingly well built with all new parts. GD

I've had quite a few do the "infinite resistance" thing on me. The wagon I just did an auto to manual swap on had both of them like that. The PO painted over the CEL with black nail polish. GD

I've noticed it depends on the model somewhat. The EA81's will destroy a joint (especially the DOJ's) real fast without a boot. The EA82's are much better. Both the inner boots on my sedan are shot, and I have no inclination of fixing them till the axles are completely wasted. Then I'll replaced them with GCK's. GD

Closer to $90 I heard from another thread GD

The plate will remain vertical for a while after the engine is shut down (maybe about an hour). You'll have to check it when it's completely cold. The engine acts as a heat sink, and slowly releases heat into the carb and the choke spring resulting in the choke spring taking quite a while to cool down. That's as it should be though. The power should be there anytime the ignition is on. Sounds like you definately have power to it anyway. GD

Sadly, on the Hitachi the idle mixture is usually "pinned" so you can't change it. Some rebuilders may leave the pin out - especially if they think you are going to need to change it. The adjustment is on the bottom of the front of the carb. Burried behind the power steering pump where you won't be able to get to it. :-\ They aren't supposed to be adjusted, so there isn't a provision for getting to it really. If the car is shaking like that, it's a pretty good indication of a vacuum leak or a really badly adusted idle mixture. (or ignition). Did you look down into the carb and see the plate wide open or something? You did pump the gas a few times right? I would imagine that it IS working.... I can't imagine the rebuilder would have adjusted it in such a way that the car wouldn't start in 40 degree weather. That just doesn't seem possible unless they are totally inept. The choke isn't adjustable anyway - it's held in place with a brass pin and rivets - it's not designed to be moved. GD

It happens - about every other time I pull one I would say. I just tap them over though. Saves me loads on heli-coils. It's one of those things you learn to live with on a Subaru GD

Sounds like it needs a serious tune up. Mileage should be at least 25. Lowest I've ever got is about 27 something in my 86 sedan. With the Weber it's got now the mileage it around 29-30, and that's WITH AC, power steering, etc. It's loaded. Changing the power steering won't help at all. The pump doesn't do anything really unless you are turning the wheel and even then it's not even 1 HP worth. My Brat has no power steering, and compared to my sedan the mileage is identical. If you have no AC then you don't need the clutch fan. It wasn't installed unless the car had AC anyway. GD

At 40 degrees it's probably not the choke that's causing your problem. As long as the plate is closed and has a little spring to it when you push in on it the engine should start. You said it has a rough idle - possibly a vacuum leak or idle mixture adjustment.... spray around with some carb cleaner and see if the idle changes - that will locate vacuum leaks for you. How's your ignition system? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs? Rough idle and hard starting can be related to a weak spark too. I hate to say it, but the Hitachi carbs are terrible. They aren't worth the metal they are cast of, they are especially difficult to rebuild, and besides all that they are gutless. I have the patience for most anything that's worth doing right, and I've rebuilt more Hitachi's than I care to remember. I tossed them all in a dumpster one fine day, and I now have one with SPFI and two with Weber's - all of them originally had Hitachi's. The Weber is simple, rugged, and a LOT more powerful than the Hitachi. My sugestion to you is to sell that Hitachi (ebay, here in the for sale forum, etc), and get a used Weber and a rebuild kit. I can rebuild a Weber in about 1 hour and have it running better than a new Hitachi. Last one I did for my sedan cost $190 total - that's including a used carb ($80), two new jets, brand new electric choke, complete redline rebuild kit, and the adaptor plate. GD

Double Offset Joint - it's the inner joint on the front axle. Outer joint is a CV, or Constant Velocity Joint. Both are technically CV's, but the DOJ is a special type of CV. GD

Pretty easy job really. 1. Put it on jack stands. 2. Remove the Inner lower control arm bolt. 3. Disconnect the sway bar link. 4. Knock the pin out of the DOJ cup with a 3/16" pin puch. 5. Pull axle off tranny. 6. Remove old boot from DOJ cup, pop out the cir-clip and remove the cup. 7. Remove spring clip from end of axle and slide the joint off. 8. Replace boots 9. Reassemble in reverse order. (remember to grease stuff properly) There's some info that will be usefull in my axle write up. Take a look here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html Don't even have to pull the tire off. GD

Interestingly, my impressions of the SPFI EA81 was that it was on-par with a Weber swap. But can be cheaper if you source your parts right. I'm currently running a full SPFI EA82 in my Brat (EA81 is almost back together), and with the SPFI tuned up properly it's pretty damn fast. 90 HP is a bigger increase from 74 than I thought - especially in the Brat's light frame. 16 HP is not an insignificant amount I'll tell ya. Driveability is VERY nice. It drives like a perfectly tuned Weber, but without the "little" cues that tell you it's a carb. The pedal isn't as "touchy". It's hard to explain, but it's like driving a newer car in a way. The BIG difference (and the part that makes it not *just* fancy carburetion) is that the SPFI is capable of adjusting itself to the flow of the engine - open the exhaust for a little better flow and the ECU compensates with more fuel for more air. That's the purpose of the Mass Airflow Sensor - it detects the incoming air mass and adjusts fuel accordingly to acheive optimal mixture ratio for any given RPM. The engine is at it's core a big air pump - with the SPFI you don't have to worry about jetting a carb - that's the whole point. Rather than a fixed mixture system, the computer is there to calculate it based on sensor input. Here's what I sugest. 1. Do the SPFI swap. 2. Convert to Mega-Squirt (I'll be working on a write up for that in the next 6 months or so when I get all my MS bits built) 3. Drop ANY engine you want in the car. I sugest the JDM EJ20 DOHC. They can be had for cheap, and are 150 HP stock to the EJ22's 135. They are cheap because it's "hard" to use them in the states because import engines don't come with wireing harnesses or ECU's..... but that's not a problem with MS - just upload new settings into your ECU, drop the engine in and go. Once the vehicle is MS, it can handle ANYTHING you want. Want an EJ20G? No problem. Want to turbo an EJ22? MS has you covered up to 25 psi boost. Want a chev V6?..... endless possibilities and you will never again have to worry about wiring. Personally just being able to use cheap import engines like the EJ20 NA that we never got here in the states is enough of a benefit. GD

Yeah - those short studs seem to be especially troublesome on the EA82's (EA81's had longer studs because of the ASV spacers). In lieu of the heli-coil's (which are out-of-budget more times than not I've found) you can tap the threads over to 7/16"x20 and use a bolt instead. No drilling is required, and if a return to the original size is wanted later, the heli-coil will still be possible. GD