GeneralDisorder

If you wait, the TO bearing will seize, and wear right through the pressure plate. Then you will have to replace both. More $$$ GD

If you are enterprising and can get it reasonably, someone will probably want the engine cross-member and power steering rack. PS was not even an option on Brat's (except it was standard on turbo's), so you could sell that bad boy on ebay as a "Brat power steering rack". It will bolt straight up for anyone without PS. Grab the pump and it's bracket with the belt idler and you have a complete "Brat power steering coversion" setup. GD

Yeah - sorry that no one mentioned that, but not a lot of folks around here anymore with the in-depth EA81 knowledge. :-\ Things that are relatively trivial on the EA82 are a huge hassle on the EA81's - like the auto to manual, or 2WD to 4WD. GD

Intake gaskets - use dealer gaskets ONLY (graphite/metal, not the cheap cardboard junk gaskets), and they are dry installed. Wire wheel the manifold so it's nice and flat (shiny metal) before you torque it down. 12 ft/lbs ONLY and make sure the bolts are wire brused and coated in anti-seize. Knock the old pilot bearing out with a ball-peen or a brass drift, and then carefully install the new one till it's just flush with the tranny side of the flywheel. Tap it in gently hitting only the very outer edge so as not to damage the race. GD

I've done it for short runs - ATF has just about an a$$load of detergents in it - it's more or less the same thing as MMO, just cheaper. Works great to run full ATF in a manual trans for 100 miles or so - cleans up the varnish on the syncro's real nice. GD

No - the inhibitor switch was in the old auto shifter. The wires from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid are interrupted by this switch, and you must jumper the two back together or it will not crank. The clutch switch is probably (almost certainly) for cruise control which I'm guessing the donor car had. It's also not a large enough switch to handle the crank circuit draw. As caboob mentioned - three LARGE bolts each for the plates, and the radius rod nut itself. I don't think the rod's are different, just the plates. GD

If Nancy can stop crying long enough to read the directions on the box. Summers Eve FTW. :cool: GD

Pulley? As in the crank pulley? Remove the #1 plug, and with the piston at the bottom of the bore, thread about 10 feet of 1/4" nylon rope in to the cylinder. Then go to town the bolt with a breaker bar. GD

Just leave the plate out - looks like maybe that bell-housing was clearanced for an EA82 flywheel - that's approximately where the grinding is needed to fit one.... but that's just a guess. Someone else's core may have been mated to a 5 speed D/R..... or it could be a JDM artifact of some kind. Not typical, but not totally unusual. Or you could swap your bell-housing over to the new engine if you really want the cover. It's just those few bolts, and about 6 on the oil pan. Put the new rear main seal into your old bell-housing and call it good. GD

You have a 20 year old turbo car - stop whineing and learn to wrench. It was reliable enough to make it 20 years and into your hands..... Stop blaming the car for your inadequacies. The car is as reliable as you make it, and maintain it to be. If you feel you can't hack it, then make car payments, get a warrantee, and leave us without your negative attitude. GD

1. You have to swap the radius rod plates as well - they are not the same from auto to manual, but they are the same from 4WD to 2WD manual. It simply won't bolt up at all without them. This is an EA81 specific deal - the EA82's are not like this at all, and there's VERY few people on this board that have done auto to manual on an EA81. 2. Ground is just from the tranny to the body. All the manual trans EA's have that. It goes right on the front of the "lip" for the spare tire shelf. 3. Nope - you pretty much always need to remove the column. Just undo the column from the u-joint in the engine bay and pull the whole thing out of the car. Makes it a lot easier to work. GD

You can run a Ford Escort disty off the passenger head, and make an adaptor to fit a Weber or another carb where the throttle body is on the manifold - it doesn't *have* to be FI. It can be as easy or as hard as you want to make it. GD

Bad rectifier diode's in the alt. Replace it. GD

Dealer or ebay. There isn't any other model that will fit. 360 parts are few and far, far between. GD

There isn't one. They were shipped here in boats without plugs to prevent the cylinders from rusting - it was the dealer who made that choice. GD

Yeah - if you want to talk about non-US models, then I'm sure you could find an EA82 body with an EA81 or EA71 in front of the 5 speed D/R.... but I don't know for sure. I've seen EA82 coupe's with EA71's and 2WD 5 speeds..... GD

35 MPG and higher is easy with SPFI and 2WD. Carb and 4WD you'll get around 28 maybe a bit more depending. It's the gearing, tire size, weight, and the SPFI ECU that does it. Heck - I got around 33 MPG with my 2WD EA81 and a Weber. GD

Bring a jump box or a battery - crank it and do a comp. test. GD

Well - I can't possibly list them all, or even remember them. I can say this: None have ever been retired for rust Of the one's I've *really* driven as personal daily's for extended periods, I still own all three. 84 wagon is on it's second engine, and shortly will be on transmission #3. Brat is running EA82 gear, and my sedan is just a high-mileage beater with a Weber. Most were bought specifically for parts, and have been crushed. That's soon to include a 91 Loyale out on the curb - it's stay of execution having mostly to do with the weather ATM. A few were sold. Several that I've been the caretaker of (and driven) went with ex's. To my knowledge those are still on the road. My current GF drives an 87 3-door, which I maintain. 3 rigs seem to be the lucky number for me - I try to own three at all times. Gives me the freedom to take any of them off the road for repair. GD

Did they tag anyone for it? Dust it for prints? Anything?!? GD

The only way to test the EGR is to apply vacuum to it's little nipple and that will pull open the port allowing exhaust gas into the intake manifold. The engine will stumble as the EGR isn't supposed to be opened at idle. The EGR's get exhaust carbon build-up on the actuator pin, and get stuck in the closed position. They are NEVER to be replaced unless they leak or have a bad diaphram (very rare). Remove the valve from the back of the manifold, and clean it with carb cleaner and a scraping device (screwdriver, etc) till you can make it move freely and re-install. Should be fine - you can test it's operation by attaching a length of vac tube to the nipple and sucking on it - should cause the engine to stumble at idle. There's nothing in the "passages" of the manifold that can be tested so I don't know what they are talking about. Just go ahead and clean the EGR and put it back on. Should be fine. Looks like your numbers are plenty clean so once you have the EGR working you should be golden. GD

It could be done, I'm sure. But not many of us with lathes.... GD

They are VERY hard to cut threads on. The studs are a tool-quality steel and don't lend themselves to cutting once they are tempered. If you use a lesser grade it could stretch when heated and there goes your clamping force. As for length - ask WJM - I'm sure he knows. Shorter than the EA81 studs IIRC. GD

That's interesting about the washer - you're saying that without it, the plug threads down farther into the cylinder? I don't use the platinums myself, but I've been trying to track down a slight miss in an engine that's got them (platinum +4's). I will take a look at the depth difference as that may be part of the problem..... GD

Call the police - they will take care of it right away, and they will know how to get ahold of him. The longer we wait the more chance of it dissapearing again - what if the perps are reading this thread? GD