GeneralDisorder

Just checked today when I was taking pics. My SPFI does NOT run the pump in the on posistion, but if you turn the key to start it runs continuously. Easy way to check your's - disconnect the small starter solenoid wire and turn the key to start. You should hear the pump run. My check mark goes beside either the temp sensor (just unplug it), or a wireing problem somewhere. GD

There's no modification needed, you just have to either bolt the carrier bearing in, or weld it. I have the two peice in my Brat and it works fine. GD

You can also replace them with resistors and not have to worry about them ever failing again. GD

I can only assume that the rings aren't properly seated. There's basically two ways for oil to get out the exhaust - valve stems, and rings. If you replaced the stem seals then it would seem to indicate the rings as your culprit. Compression rings are fine - but the oil control ring may be installed improperly or something - that's just a guess tho. GD

Not at ALL. The EA82 and EJ series were developed somewhat simutaneously. The EJ was an entirely new design, and the EA82 was just an EA81 with OHC (really just a stop-gap solution while the EJ was finished up. Even the block castings are so similar you can bolt accesories between the two. The EJ is WAY different. 5 mains instead of 3 is just the beginning of the differences. GD

I actually laughed at that one. It means your doors aren't locked. Get in and lock the drivers door - all the other doors will lock and that will go out. GD

Popular doesn't always mean right kid. Pet rocks were popular..... It's clear you have very little experience with mechanics in general. You should read more and put some stock in what those of us who have been around have to say. I've turned wrenches in 8 states, and 3 countries, and I don't talk out my a$$ on too many subjects. Start thinking about the economics of the situation - it's more important than most other factors when talking about consumer products. GD

The consensus around here has been 55 or 60 lbs instead of the factory spec of 47. Personally I do 55, and that has been 100% reliable for me (I don't dabble in turbo's though). No head gasket I've ever replaced with a Fel-Pro, and 55 lbs has shown any signs of failing. GD

Both are too short. GD

Engine is siezed That'll teach you to pay attention to warning lights. Also the oil lamp isn't a "low" warning, it's a low oil PRESSURE warning. Your pressure dropped to a dangerous level (digi-dash huh?), and you probably seized the rings in a cylinder. It's dead, and even a complete tear down probably won't save it. Once the mechanical damage is severe enough to stop the engine from rotating, it's a crispy critter. GD

Most tempering of steel occurs at around 500 degrees and up - oil and salt bath tempering can range from around 475 degrees to over 1000 degrees and higher. So I wouldn't expect any problems with reusing them. I've reused plenty that were overheated. It shouldn't damage the properties of the bolts any. If you got the engine hot enough to de-temper the steel in the bolts you would also de-temper the piston rings, and the engine would seize GD

Metric *anything* is hard here - try finding metric drill bits! Or a metric pin punch. The axle pins are 6mm, but we all use 3/16" because literally no one can source a 6mm punch in the states. Have to get a lathe and make my own :-\ GD

They really aren't all that durable. 105k shouldn't be too bad, but the autos are usually lucky to make it to 200k, and many die long before that. If the fluid looks nice and smells nice, and the thing shifts like warm butter I would probably say it's fine. If not - run the other way. If you get it, definately consider having the tranny power flushed and the filter changed, and keep doing that on a yearly basis. Also a good idea to have the control valve completely dissasembled and cleaned when they do the flush. This will help keep it clean and shifting properly, and will prevent the governor gear from eating itself (transmission death if that happens). GD

Yes - check the modulator, as well as the governor on the passenger side of the tranny. Check the fluid for color, and make sure it doesn't smell "burnt". It doesn't *sound* battery related, but that certainly is odd that it occured right after changing the batt. GD

He's actually taking the lamp assembly and baking it till the sealant can be pulled apart to open the casing. Then you clean out the innards, and smoke them with some paint if you like. Then bake the parts to soften the goop again and push em back together. Pretty sure this has the added benefit that it should seal any holes that have formed in the sealant too. I want to try it sometime myself... GD

She's totally confused - it's probably just a GL Turbo. It could be a GL-10, but it's hard to say. The push-button was real common on the Turbo, and on the DL. Wierd how the top of the line, and the bottom got the same tranny?? Good example - I got a tip on a sedan. Guy's wife said it's an 83, then I talk to him and he says it's an 84 (so still EA81), and says it's a 5 speed 4WD, so I figure it's really an 85 with an 84 build date..... I get there and it's an 86 . People got no idea what they own. GD

Oh yes - don't have a price just yet. Been too nasty to get to the yards for some harnesses. The write up will contain everything you need to do it yourself if you want - no need to buy from me unless you don't want to, or can't find the parts. Write up will probably be online sometime this weekend. GD

It's fine to leave the valve out on the EA82's because they had valves for the drums. But I HAD to install it in my Brat - it would lock the rears easily without it - very scary on wet pavement. GD

On the single peice units the other taper bearings should come off for packing.... IIRC, but it's been a while since I messed with one. Usually the grease packed with bearings is supposed to be flushed out and replaced before install, unless you buy sealed bearings. GD

No need to save it - I have LOTS more. Wait till my write up goes live. If you like that one, you are going to crap yourself.... "If I have seen farther, it is only because I have stood on the shoulders of giants." You'll be getting credit in my write up, as well as a prominant link to your original PDF, which is EXCELENT (I read it before doing my first conversion), but just a bit lacking in pictures I felt. That, and my version is not only dealing with the conversion, but the modifications needed to adapt to the EA81 (where pictures are even more critical). GD

Ok - I guess I got confused - I think for some reason I was assuming it was turbo. Where did I get that ..... Um - anyway - ok so if it's an 86 push-button it really *should* be a DL (crank windows and all that business), but maybe a GL - most all GL's were already D/R tho. At any rate, you are looking at a carb, yes. 86 4WD's (regardless of push-button or D/R) were carbed across the board (except turbo's). So disregard what I said about the neutral switch since it wouldn't apply to a carbed vehicle. GD

Yeah - didn't think to check email - I got it now, and sent you a PM. GD

Yeah - basically. I coat lots of my gaskets, except for the graphite/metal stuff like HG's and intake manifold. If it's cardboard, I feel it needs something gooey on it But - it's very important for things like the oil pan that the sealant be allowed to dry before it's installed or bits could get sucked into oil passages and wreak havoc. GD

D/R tranny's didn't come with fuel injection till 88 (except for the RX's and such - but those are 1.2:1 crappy low range, and 3.7 read diff), so any that you find that are older are from carbed vehicles that didn't need the switch. Sadly it can't be added to the older trans as the spot for it is not drilled and tapped, and can't be unless the transfer case is removed from the trans - which is WAY too much work. GD

One was superceeded by the other at some point in the subaru parts system. Either one will work. GD