GeneralDisorder

1. You have to swap the radius rod plates as well - they are not the same from auto to manual, but they are the same from 4WD to 2WD manual. It simply won't bolt up at all without them. This is an EA81 specific deal - the EA82's are not like this at all, and there's VERY few people on this board that have done auto to manual on an EA81. 2. Ground is just from the tranny to the body. All the manual trans EA's have that. It goes right on the front of the "lip" for the spare tire shelf. 3. Nope - you pretty much always need to remove the column. Just undo the column from the u-joint in the engine bay and pull the whole thing out of the car. Makes it a lot easier to work. GD

You can run a Ford Escort disty off the passenger head, and make an adaptor to fit a Weber or another carb where the throttle body is on the manifold - it doesn't *have* to be FI. It can be as easy or as hard as you want to make it. GD

Bad rectifier diode's in the alt. Replace it. GD

Dealer or ebay. There isn't any other model that will fit. 360 parts are few and far, far between. GD

There isn't one. They were shipped here in boats without plugs to prevent the cylinders from rusting - it was the dealer who made that choice. GD

Yeah - if you want to talk about non-US models, then I'm sure you could find an EA82 body with an EA81 or EA71 in front of the 5 speed D/R.... but I don't know for sure. I've seen EA82 coupe's with EA71's and 2WD 5 speeds..... GD

35 MPG and higher is easy with SPFI and 2WD. Carb and 4WD you'll get around 28 maybe a bit more depending. It's the gearing, tire size, weight, and the SPFI ECU that does it. Heck - I got around 33 MPG with my 2WD EA81 and a Weber. GD

Bring a jump box or a battery - crank it and do a comp. test. GD

Well - I can't possibly list them all, or even remember them. I can say this: None have ever been retired for rust Of the one's I've *really* driven as personal daily's for extended periods, I still own all three. 84 wagon is on it's second engine, and shortly will be on transmission #3. Brat is running EA82 gear, and my sedan is just a high-mileage beater with a Weber. Most were bought specifically for parts, and have been crushed. That's soon to include a 91 Loyale out on the curb - it's stay of execution having mostly to do with the weather ATM. A few were sold. Several that I've been the caretaker of (and driven) went with ex's. To my knowledge those are still on the road. My current GF drives an 87 3-door, which I maintain. 3 rigs seem to be the lucky number for me - I try to own three at all times. Gives me the freedom to take any of them off the road for repair. GD

Did they tag anyone for it? Dust it for prints? Anything?!? GD

The only way to test the EGR is to apply vacuum to it's little nipple and that will pull open the port allowing exhaust gas into the intake manifold. The engine will stumble as the EGR isn't supposed to be opened at idle. The EGR's get exhaust carbon build-up on the actuator pin, and get stuck in the closed position. They are NEVER to be replaced unless they leak or have a bad diaphram (very rare). Remove the valve from the back of the manifold, and clean it with carb cleaner and a scraping device (screwdriver, etc) till you can make it move freely and re-install. Should be fine - you can test it's operation by attaching a length of vac tube to the nipple and sucking on it - should cause the engine to stumble at idle. There's nothing in the "passages" of the manifold that can be tested so I don't know what they are talking about. Just go ahead and clean the EGR and put it back on. Should be fine. Looks like your numbers are plenty clean so once you have the EGR working you should be golden. GD

It could be done, I'm sure. But not many of us with lathes.... GD

They are VERY hard to cut threads on. The studs are a tool-quality steel and don't lend themselves to cutting once they are tempered. If you use a lesser grade it could stretch when heated and there goes your clamping force. As for length - ask WJM - I'm sure he knows. Shorter than the EA81 studs IIRC. GD

That's interesting about the washer - you're saying that without it, the plug threads down farther into the cylinder? I don't use the platinums myself, but I've been trying to track down a slight miss in an engine that's got them (platinum +4's). I will take a look at the depth difference as that may be part of the problem..... GD

Call the police - they will take care of it right away, and they will know how to get ahold of him. The longer we wait the more chance of it dissapearing again - what if the perps are reading this thread? GD

That would be great if it was just someone with a bad day. If you can get them at a reasonable price then you just need to figure out some studs for em. The bolts can't put down the torque that the MLM gaskets will require, so studs need to be aquired. Problem is the size is really strange, and ARP wants your first born for a set. You might tap them over to a larger non-metric size, but I think someone looked into that as well. Anyway, after it's all paid for you could have bough an EJ257 front clip and have it installed..... so what's the point? GD

That's the EA81 hi-rise console, yes. All the power window EA81's had it, as well as the turbo Brats even though they didn't have the power windows. GD

Wow - I almost wish it was stolen from me. ultimatesubaru.org FTW! GD

That's called a counter-balance shaft, and is needed for smooth running in inherenty unbalanced engines (3 cylinders, 5 cylinders, most inline engines, etc). It is DIFFERENT from a harmonic balancer which is designed to counteract resonance between the cylinder fireing vibrations, and the engine RPM: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_balancer The harmonic isn't needed with the EA81 because of the opposed nature of the cylinders - when one side fires, the forces are transfered directly across to the opposing cylinder. GD

Fuel, Spark, Air, and in the case of the EA82 - Timing. You have lost one and you need to find it again :-p Totally classic timing belt symtoms - see if the distributor even turns. If not you lost the drivers side t-belt. GD

Timing belts. Tis the season. GD

Yeah - I have a strange attraction to the Dodge Daytona - not enough to actually obtain one tho. The lebaron suffered from head gasket "abrasion" where the block is cast iron, and the head aluminium - the two have different expansion rates and will actually "chew" the gasket to peices after an alarmingly short time. The Omni was actually developed by Simca - which was a French division of chrysler at the time - later sold to Peugeot. It was only "assembled" by Chrysler. But it was a step in the "lets build our own" direction instead of importing the compact cars from Mitsubishi as they had done up to that time with stuff like the colt (and the raider - even though that's not a compact) GD

Electrical connector..... best pic I have at the moment..... They won't be in the same spot (different car, different continent...), but gives you an idea of the size and shape: GD

OH! wait a sec - you guys have the steering wheel on the other side :-p So yeah - could be over yonder on the "driver" side of the car..... Electrical tape.... well no it shouldn't be. Should be a 2 pin green plastic connector - or rather a set of them. Disconnect them when you find them. Maybe someone mucked with them and now they are wrapped in e-tape, but they shouldn't be stock. GD

Should be right next to that fuel filter - behind the drivers side strut tower. Look down in that pocket back there by the wiper motor. As to how they got that way.... only you would know that . GD