GeneralDisorder

It's almost never the sending units - break out your ohmeter and check it. It's usually the wires. I couldn't even find where the wires had gone bad on my sedan (probably mice action), so I just ran new ones to the dash harness. GD

They all have different ECU's, but if you jumper the right pins you can fool it into doing what you want. The auto legacy harness is going to be more involved as the 4EAT is electronically controlled with it's own ECU in addition to the engine ECU. A manual will not have any of this stuff, and will be simpler to strip the harness for piggy-back into the loyale. GD

Halfshafts - sway bar link, and lower control arm bolt is all you need to disconnect. Driveshaft drops out once you lower the center carrier bearing. GD

I've done that too - but I didn't sugest it for fear of someone being injured or killed. They can be very strong if used properly in the structural fashion they were designed for. Harbor freight - about $10 - $20. GD

No wonder the yards around here are so full.... You'll find one - Legacy's are getting real cheap lately. GD

I have seen it (occasionally) addressed..... I'll tell you what NOBODY touches on - the o-ring for the dip-stick. If you have an air leak into the crank-case the FI computer will judge the mixture incorrectly (it creates a vacuum leak). The engine needs to be TIGHT, and the oil cap, and to a lesser (but by no means insignificant) extent the dip-stick o-ring are the two weakest links in sealing it. GD

Put all 4 corners on jack stands and unbolt it. Ideally get it high enough that you can place some layers of carpet or foam under the tranny and just let it drop out on the soft surface. Pull the pitching stopper - that will allow the tranny and engine to pitch backward and slide out. Basically you will get very, very dirty and bruised up, but it can be done. Just get it HIGH - as high as you can. I have used concrete pavers to raise the jack stands for more height. Don't use cinder block as it can disitigrate easily. GD

There's a rubber pad that pushes the switch only when the brakes are not being pressed. This way even a very slight brake pressure will turn them on. If it were the other way the switch mechanism needed to counteract varying brake pressure would be overly complex. The switch probably grounds when it's "plunger" is out. Test it to see. Could also be something with the wireing. The brake lights run off the same circuit as the choke, so if the choke power wire grounds out it will blow the fuse. You have checked the fuses I take it? GD

Did you have the flywheel turned? Could be they didn't turn it to the correct specs? Disc thickness shouldn't make a lot of difference - as long as it's around 1/4" thick it should be fine. I would be looking at the flywheel depth, the pressure plate, and the fork. GD

You will spend far, far more money and time trying to make power from the EA82T. 200 is an 74% increase in power output, and without literally thousands of dollars it's not feasible or reliable. Very few aftermarket parts are availible, and almost none of them are "performance" - the few that are just happen to fit but were made for some other application generally. If you are looking for performance you are barking up the wrong tree. Get a legacy if you want to play with expensive performance parts. The simple EJ22 is 20 more HP without any turbo at all. The EJ22G (early 90's legacy turbo) is 165 HP stock, with a block that's good for 500+ HP and 20+ psi of boost. It's just plain illogical to mess with the EA82T - it was never designed to support the kind of power you are looking for. It's basically early 60's block (larger displacement version of the EA52), with modified valve train for OHC's. The heads are not built to withstand large amounts of forced induction or heat, and there are no options for replacements. GD

They are supposed to seal down tight. If it does not, or you have to "back it off" then you need a new rubber gasket inside the cap or the tabs need adjusting. GD

It's on the pedal assembly. GD

Any 87+ GL should have the int. function. Perhaps it was replaced by a PO with a DL stalk. (oh, and so do 86 and older GL's too, but it's on the dash, not the stalk. even my GL Brat has int.) GD

I have no idea what that thing is called. One from an EA82 5 speed should work tho. I've always had good ones from the yards. GD

Yeah - there's a rubber peice with another metal plate attached to it, and it bolts to a threaded stud sticking out under the tunnnel. If you don't have one, you will have to drill a hole and put one in. The EA82 2WD (and some parts of the 4WD) 5 speed linkage is the same. GD

Not that will bolt to your engine. The AWD legacy transmissions are 4.11. Just put a dual range transmission in from a late 80's GL. It will bolt straight up, and will give you another 1.59:1 reduction in low range. GD

Thet's not true - the heads often warp, but the block does not. The surfaces may be fine, but the heads have to be milled flat to seal properly. I've also taken plenty apart with badly pitted head surfaces, but no evidence of damage to the block. GD

3.9 for manual, 3.7 for auto. Can't change the gear ratio without replacing the transmission. GD

All EA81T's came stock with oil coolers here. But EA81T's are rare, so it's still very hard to find them. GD

Yeah - there's one relay for each side under the dash. Look up behind the fuse box. I've seen that before and it's usually the relays. GD

I think they may have all been MPFI or carb. I wonder where the closest to AUS that got the SPFI was?? GD

They won't, but try them if you like replacing head gaskets a lot. The Fel-Pro's are only $16 each from autozone. GD

Find an EJ to put in it. If you are looking at the 10+ psi department, sadly the EA82T heads can't take it. The heads use bolts instead of studs (and a weird size too) so can't be torqued past 60 ft/lbs or so. Couple that with the lack of MLM head gaskets.... There's only about 3/16" of metal between the coolant jacket and the exhuast port so extremely careful mixture control under all conditions is vital to not cracking the heads - EGT sensors, and lots of them. The heads just can't take the heat, and higher boost = more heat. It's really just not worth the time when an EJ is easy to transplant and gives higher displacement and better design all around. GD

There's always the SPFI swap - as good as a weber anyway: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

It's the radius rod, and you can't change it's length without also changing the control arm - I guess you could use EA82 control arms as they would move it forward about that much, but they are also longer. Personally if you are going to all the trouble I would just fabricate a complete "A" arm and drop the silly radius rod altogether. GD