GeneralDisorder

Parts inside the engine are not going to need it. The oil in the crank case and the carbon from igntion are more than sufficient to protect the aluminium surfaces. Besides that, there isn't any alumnium wear points on an EA82. Cylinder walls and rings are steel or sintered iron, main and rod bearings are steel as is the crank. Piston top, and combustion chamber rapidy form a carbon layer.... which surface are you trying to protect?? GD

Dealer won't be able to help you. Most parts stores sell generic kits, and AC rated o-rings. GD

You are not supposed to shift into first unless you are stopped. It's very hard on the 1st gear syncro. You can fill the tranny with ATF, and run it for a few hundred miles to clean the syncros, and then fill it with Redline or your favorite synthetic. Takes about $40 worth of Redline to fill a 5 speed. GD

Not really. Just follow the lines and replace the seal at each connection. GD

A few bucks for o-rings. Coverting is simply a matter of charging it with 134. There's nothing else that needs to be done. Charge kits are about $35. These systems work find with 134. GD

I wrote this for EA81's but the EA82 is similar - just easier on the pedal side: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD

The real question is what's the point? Probably about $10 - $20 depending on the yard, but I really don't see the need since you don't have a 4WD shifter. GD

Usually that's the nylon bushings on the pedal pivot wanting grease. But as long as you are down there might as well replace the cable too. GD

You'll want to get new o-rings for all the connections, and then charge it with R-134. One can of R-12 isn't going to be enough. GD

85 to 89 EA82's. GD

GCK axles. Brand new - 4WD spec - lifetime warrantee. Without a doubt the best axles money can buy for an EA81. http://www.gck.com/ Autozone - $100 - no core charge. GD

Yeah - that's the general idea. I'm still takeing a picture tho. GD

Don't *have* to take the shaft out (or even the wheel off). Inner control arm bolt, sway bar link, the DOJ roll pin, and the inner joint pulls off the tranny. Then dissasemble the inner joint while it's on the car, and slide two new boots on. Clean as much dirty grease out as you can, and fill the new boots and joints with moly. Use some SS hose clamps to tighten the new boots. GD

Oh - and if you are enough of a mechanic that you can replace a disty, then you could do the SPFI swap. It's not that difficult. GD

Ask in the wanted forum for a used one - there's members here with BIG parts collections. Then use that while you send the other one away for rebuild. GD

Except the one pictured is an EA81 core, and that stupid site lists it as fitting EA82's as well. God I wish the parts places would get it right. They are NOT interchangable. GD

The subaru cores are about the same as their radiators. It's a two-row unit, about 8" by 6", with metal tanks. The problem is that back flushing them really does no good at all because the inlet and outlet tubes are about 4" apart on the same tank. The pressure just runs right out the other side, or forces the gunk farther into the core.... I guess I'll have to take a picture cause clearly none of you people have seen one. GD

The two-flange distributor is for an EA82. It does not have the right drive gear, but assuming it's for a carb engine, then yes. You could cut the flange off, move the wireing harness a bit, enlarge the adjuster slot on the other flange, change the drive gear (hole must be redrilled higher up on the shaft), and it would work. Call these guys. I've worked with them on many occasions and they do excelent work. Your distributor needs new shaft bushings, and probably will need the vacuum advance rebuilt. They can make your unit as good as new for about $50 - $75: www.philbingroup.com They can also source new units for you, but the price is astronomical - probably in the $200 - $300 range. If you are willing to spend a little more (than the rebuild - probably be about the same as a new distributor for everything), and upgrade in the process, then the Single Point Fuel Injection would be the far better alternative - the SPFI uses it's own distributor, and you can get one and have philbin just swap the drive gear from your Hitachi over to it. The SPFI disty uses easily replaced pin bearings for it's shaft (and they last like 300,000 miles anyway) so no worries about this ever re-occuring. Read my full write up on the SPFI swap here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

None. All newer seats require modification to fit. The closest to fitting I've see are seats from an Isuzu Impulse. The bolt holes line up well, but one rail has to be moved about 1" outward with some brackets. Shift dog is worn, and probably the syncro too. Put in a 5 speed D/R from a newer EA82 subaru. Do a search on this swap - it's been covered many times here and there's a section in the USRM about it. GD

Ford escort disty. GD

Yep - easy actually. Pull the radiator if you have large hands like me, but no need to pull the engine at all. GD

You might be able to thwack it with a hammer and get it to run, but it sounds like the motor is shot in it. Search for "Ford fuel pump" here on the board - there's a ranger frame mounted pump that works and is pretty cheap. GD

All EA81 hoods are the same - look for yards with 80-84 subaru's. GD

Sure - you can send them to my email, or find me on messenger: cropperr(at)comcast.net MSN: rick_cropper(at)hotmail.com replace (at) with @ GD

New cables. GD