GeneralDisorder

Probably the pump then. Any carb pump that does about 3 psi will work fine. The stock pumps are 2.5 to 3 psi or so. GD

That's true - I should also make note that my 33 MPG road trip was at 70 to 75 Mph as the I-5 in WA was 70 at the time. Had I slowed down to 55 the mileage would have been better I'm sure. GD

Not difficult - I just swapped an auto to a manual on a Loyale a few weeks ago. It's just a matter of bolting it up. Have to use the manual tranny cross-member, and swap the rear diff, and driveline. No problem at all. The EA manual's are good to around 150 - 200 HP in stock form easily. The only real weak point is the reverse gear shift dog - they tend to not mesh properly after many years of loose linakges - a few grinds and they will shear off. If the linkages are kept in good order, they are fine. Any more power than that, and you'll want to step up to a WRX 5 speed or the STi 6 speed. GD

It's also possible for a lot of pine needles, leaves, gunk, and pocket lint to corrupt your heater core - that only applies to vehicles without AC, but it can happen. Also a partially clogged core can not get enough coolant flow to heat the air up. If you are enterprising, the core can be replaced in about a day. Or as tom mentioned - those little electric jobbies are pretty cheap. I had thought about that myself. There's other options - I thought about running heater core hose into the cabin to a spare heater core, and blowing air over it with a radiator fan. Maybe mounting the whole thing to a wooden crate and setting it in the passenger area....... or you can light your passenger seat on fire..... yeah GD

Sure - slap an 4.11 (or 4.44) R160 from a leganus up there, and get some bigger tires to counteract the difference in ratio's. Nothing at all stopping your from doing it - I just don't see a whole lot of practical use for it, except for a dune buggy type of use where you want big paddles in the back, and small straight grooves for steering in the front.... GD

Very good guys: http://www.philbingroup.com/ GD

This is the transmission from hades - seriously the thing leaks if you just stare at it in a way it doesn't find pleasing . Only potential for leak I could find is that rear output - it's definately comming from somewhere back there, and that seams the likely spot considering the splash coverage. Do this - spray the whole area down with brake cleaner to get all the mess off, then run it down the road a bit and check it right away. See if you can locate the leak better that way. It was raining, and messy when I looked at it so I could be wrong. Best to double check it. GD

They are out of their mind. Even the justy was only about 38 to 40. Expect to see in the mid 30's because it's 2WD, and fairly light. As a comparison my EA81 2WD wagon with a Weber did 33 MPG on a road trip a few years back. The STD hatch should be a bit better than that - probably 35 or therabouts. Put an EA81 and SPFI on it, and you might be pushing 40. The hatch's all have a small tank, so don't expect long voyages. On my wagon I could push 400 miles, but the hatch tank is several gallons smaller. GD

Thank God! I'm not alone afterall. Maine? Surely you jest.... your winters are nothing to write home about pal. Try Korea on for size. And I don't care if it's 100 below zero, the axles are not going to "Bend". You are full of i$ht, and you have been since you started posting here. Lay off the pharms man. GD

Remove the choke housing - I think you may find that the bi-metal spring inside the housing has worn through and the "hook" on the end has fallen off giving the chock no spring to close it. Best way to deal with that is to replace it with the later 83/84 style choke that has the plastic spring/heater housing and eliminate the second pull-off pot on the back. I know that's not an easy description to follow, but just pull that housing off and check the spring - you'll probably find the small peice of hook just chilling in the bottom of the housing. At which point you will say "crap - now how do I fix THAT?". Just come back here, and we'll get ya fixed up. GD

Sure - if you want to do a swap on it, I don't mind helping out. It's not all that hard really. Foster u-pull-it eh? That would be sweet I'm sure. I could use an "inside man". Hehe. Someone put coil-overs in the back? That's would give it like 3-4" of lift. That's how the rear lift is done on my wagon..... GD

I swear by them. I tend to swear AT the EA82's a lot more. Drop the SPFI on the EA81, add power steering if you don't have it, put in a 5 speed D/R, rear discs bolt on.... They are less complex machines - no vacuum diaphram system for the heat controls, much studier radiator/cooling system, less prone to head gasket failure, no timing belts. Water pump and oil pump are both easily changed in 15 minutes, and the front main seal is right under the pulley. What's not to like? I had a DL I got from the orignal owner - 316k on it then - now it's got 370 somthing. GD

Mass Airflow Sensor GD

We can only hope that it will break the bank and he will join a Toyota forum Watch out for those meteor's - they are atracted to GL's ya know. GD

ECU - you can't - it's hard coded. It doesn't matter either way though. That's not the source of your problem. CTS = Coolant Temp Sensor. Very important that you clean your MAF as well. It takes about 10 minutes with a can of brake cleaner. You'll spend hours on the O2, so do the MAF at the same time. Warm up the car, drop the exhaust, loosen the O2 about 1/4 turn and spray it with a whole bunch of PB blaster, etc - let it sit for about 20 minutes then it should come right out. Chase the threads with a spark plug thread chaser before you install the new one. GD

Do you read anything? He has a 90 Turbo - that's 115 HP, and likely it's 4WD, but he didn't say one way or the other. Damn. There's almost no difference in a "GL" versus a "Loyale". It's the same damn thing with a different badge. GD

The 3AT's are junk. They won't handle the power. You would need a newer auto, but they are computer controlled and that would add to the swap complexity. As for what swaps - anything you want if you spend the time. I've seen STi engines in Brat's and Loyale's. GD

But you don't - you need the injector bosses in the heads, and that's going to cost just short of an a$$load for a set of EA81T heads. Then you need an SPFI manifold... etc. The reality is that SPFI would be MUCH cheaper, more effecient, and not a huge pain-in-the-a$$ conglomeration of german Bosch and japanese Hitachi. Waste of time I say. Reinventing the wheel isn't "different" it's stupid. GD

Looking at my factory service manual the procedure is...... I suppose "nasty" is the right word for it. It involves turning the tranny on it's side with a special weight on the top (no idea how much, it's a dealer service tool), and then turning the input shaft while tightening the bottom adjuster till a slight resistance is felt, backing it off, turning the input shaft, tapping with a hammer, checking the backlash with a dial guage through the drain plug hole, and then doing a contact pattern test with "red lead" on the crown gear, yada, yada, yada..... um yeah don't EVER touch one of those. That's about all the knowledge I have on them. I've always marked them when taking them out to replace the seal, etc or when dismantling the tranny. You have to mark the posistion where it was tight, and then mark it again just where the threads dis-engage from the housing in order for the threads to start in the same spot as before. GD

There's a special socket you use with a torque wrench on it. I don't have the exact procedure, but someone around here probably does. GD

What's the point? The EA82 hood is light enough to pick up and move around easily - every actually weigh one? It's pretty insignificant really. you are looking at a savings of 25 lbs? Go on a diet. I can think of a lot more poductive ways to spend $400. That's about $16 per pound of lost weight - I can buy a lot of sawzall blades, fiberglass, and rivets for that much. I guess if you want it for the "look", but then why not just use the $400 towards a nicer rig? GD

Ignition stuffs may have gotten wet. Check all your plugs and wires, etc. The EJ's tend to bend rods or break pistons when they get sunk in water like that. Get yourself a snorkel if you plan to do this a lot. And change your oil - water contamination is pretty sinister on the lube system. GD

The "spinny thing" sets the front diff spider gear pre-load. Put it EXACTLY back where it was or the front diff will eat itself. GD

It bolts straight on - you will need to get under to get the linkages out. You will also need the interior consoles around the shifter, and the forward metal bracket that the plastic stuff screws onto. GD

Then it's definately not from a Legacy. Just bolts straight up then. The D/R and the push-button use exactly the same housings. Everything will work stock, but you will need the D/R shift linkages. GD