GeneralDisorder

Yeah - when you use larger offset rims, they are generally wider. I'm using 7.5" wide rims, so really most of the extra width (about 2") IS the change in offset. In other words the weight of the car is still pretty much where it was before on the bearings, you just gain more width for larger tires. Really, the bearings last a LONG time in stock form (150k+), so even if it cut the life in half, that's a small price to pay IMO. And most of us tend to NOT drive our lifted rigs as daily's. The tires are too expensive, loss of good mileage, lack of swaybars, and other modifications generally make for a vehicle whose daily characteristics are poor. Add to that the extreme availbility of cheap subarus, and that in stock form they make excelent daily's (especially to someone that has a ready made parts supply and tool-set for his lifted rig), and you have a recipe for a multiple subaru owner in short order. Everyone that has off-roaded with me started with a regular soob, lifted it, then got another one once they found out how much it sucks to not have a daily/parts runner/backup after a few trail runs with me GD

Had mine on the passenger side under the seat, and it took like 60 to 90 minutes to overheat in the summer with no fan (internal or external). But it was an older MTX 150x2 Blue Thunder (mid 90's). A newer amp may be better on heat. GD

Gem Top as recently as a few years ago would still custom build them from their original specs - cost was on the order of $2000 or so IIRC. GD

Mostly retards that did a bunch of other tune up crap at the same time (like replaceing their air filter ), and then exclaim "OH WOW - MY MILEAGE WENT UP HALF A POINT". It's total BS. Also, anyone smart enough to market something like this, has plenty of friends that would say whatever they want for a couple beers, and a slice of the "action". I know I do. BTW, I'm doing Feng Shui these days, and I'm also a pet psychic.... talking to 50 year old houswive's poodles for $300 an hour is just too lucrative to pass up. GD

Sounds like it - the seals aren't prone to failure unless the rack is run without fluid for a while. GD

Figures. Would have been neat to find a custom turbo sedan. GD

Do you already have power steering? And how do you know your rach is shot? They are almost indestructible, so it's not very common. If not you need the entire engine cross-member. The PS rack will not fit into the non-PS cross-member. I haven't seen a non-PS EA82 in a while, but on the EA81's the steering linkage is also different - such that you have to do something custom, or you have to swap the entire steering column.... but I suspect the EA82's aren't like that. GD

I had one under the passenger seat, but it would overheat on really long drives and turn itself off after about 1.5 hours. I think this next time I'm going to put it on the roof - good airflow in the summer with the windows down, and theives rarely look "up" when scanning a car. Besides it's a cheap amp anyway in my case. You could put it behind that panal, and drill a hole pattern on the door with some small PC fans mounted to it. That would give you the airflow needed to cool it and still retain the hidden look. GD

#1. Being that's an 84, it would have a 2 barrel Hitachi. They obviously know sooooo much about this application . I'm sure their detail oreiented test engineers simply overlooked the second barrel. #2. This is priceless: " If you're not completely happy with your Vortex Valve™, we'll pay you back what you paid us when you bought it! The reason we are able to offer this kind of spectacular guarantee is simply because we know the amazing "track record" of the Vortex Valve™, which now includes thousands of happy customers." It's sad how they prey on people. They are simply banking on the fact that most people can't even calculate mileage correctly, let alone do the proper testing that would most likely show an increase in fuel consumption or nothing at all. But people WANT to see an improvement, so they do. It's just a matter of knowing what outcome you want and figureing out how to rationalize it. Happens in scientific communities all the time - smart people are very good at rationalizing things they came to beleive for non-smart reasons. GD

Count the splines on the front outputs - 23 is an NA trans, and 25 is a turbo. If it's 23 you can be pretty sure it's a normal D/R. GD

Yep - sounds like a push-button tranny. All the FT4WD units are 25 spline, so that pretty much seals it. GD

Conceptually, you could re-temper the existing shafts. Have to reheat them and quench with a salt bath.... yeah it could be done. GD

Obscure reference ala National Lampoon's Vacation (circa 1983)...... poking fun at the largest retailer in all the land. GD

Lots of info - the search will yeild most of it. It's spread over many threads so just search for "5 speed swap EA81". First, you should seriously consider getting a kit from Bratsrus1 (Jerry). Makes the whole procedure easier as the cross-member and linkage will be taken care of. The 5 speed doesn't fit the tunnel unless you either beat the tunnel or customize the cross-member to lower the tranny a smidge. His product is very well made, and well-designed. And your interior will look entirely stock. As for the driveshaft - personally I like the 2 peice as it's higher up. Have the u-joints made serviceable and make a carrier mount, or have a longer single peice made up - about the same price either way so take your pick. Most of the folks that advocate the single peice have never tried the two-peice - rather they leave it to a driveline shop to solve all their problems. The carrier mount isn't difficult, and doesn't have to be anything special or particularly strong. Here's one ear of mine (other side is the same). Took me all of 2 hours to fab up. If the Nancy's that whine about it would just get under the car and DO something with those 10 lovely digits they were born with there wouldn't be such an argument about it....... GD

Yeah - you're fine either way. Just make sure you are 3.9 all around. Pay no attention to us - go off the sticker :-p GD

215/75r15's here (soft rubber too), and Hi-Po EA81. I blew a front axle pulling out of a 76 station in 2WD a while back - no front problems since I got GCK axles up there tho, and the one I blew was a 2WD axle that has been in there since before I did the 4WD conversion like 3 years ago. Surprised it lasted as long as it did. I think my diff has about had it too, but since I grenaded reverse in the 4 speed it's doing some sitting in the corner recently.... BAD SOOB! GD

Wow - that's bizzare. I did have a '92 3AT loyale with a blown auto and a 3.9 in it, but the tranny had been "rebuilt" and I figured something had been messed with back there. Maybe it was stock afterall. GD

AFAIK, there is only one brand of oil pump - Parut (OEM). My local discount import has them for $95 GD

+1 .... I think Did anyone get the number of that Bus? GD

Oh yeah! They are terrible on wear - often lasting less than 20,000 miles, and the bias ply versions will give you a good excuse to vist the spine doctor, then find a good hearing aid supplier..... but they are unbeatable off-road. They are the only thing that will handle the mud out here on the left coast. I can understand for some of the AUS guys attitude as they may not often see the wet conditions we have here 80% of the year. The rubber is so damn hard on the bias-ply's that they get flat spots in them when they sit overnight in the cold, and it takes a few miles for the tires to "round out" again. Makes for an interesting wake up call. GD

It's the tach signal that drives the FPCU, and he has a carb, so there aren't any green test connectors for him. GD

The DOJ is just a special class of CV, and you could in fact use DOJ's on the front outer if you built a special stub like the rears have. Steerable wheels do NOT preclude the use of DOJ's if properly designed. Don't mind if I do . Actually they used both styles, with seemingly no rhyme or reason to it. Also even the double DOJ EA82 axles have the deeper cups. Why they are so deep is a mystery as the EA82's have lower ground clearance than the EA81 by nearly 2 inches in stock form :-\ GD

The EA82's had two different styles of rear axle - one has two DOJ's, and the other (more common) has a DOJ on the inside, and a CV on the outside like the front. The double DOJ axles are prefered as they have more stretch than the outboard CV style. EA81's were always DOJ's on both ends, but the EA81 is narrower, and has shallow cups on the rear axles. Changing to the EA82 DOJ's on both ends gives about 3/4" of extra stretch, which is considerable for how cheap the upgrade is. You'll benefit from reading my write up on it, even though you have an EA82. It will give you some background on the subject: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html GD

We in the US have Interco You AUS guys get some cool stuffs, but no Interco :-p GD

The pump runs for only a couple seconds in the "run" position to prime the system. It runs continously in "start" while the engine is cranking, and again continously in "run" IF there is a tach pulse signal present at the fuel pump control unit under the dash. If the signal is lost (car accident resulting in engine stop) the fuel pump control unit turns off power to the pump to prevent a fire. Yes - or at least there was. I've seen them. Threads into the bottom of the block on the passenger side, and has a wire to plug into a wall outlet. Check with your dealer. GD