GeneralDisorder

SPFI uses an optical distributor that only the ECU will understand. The ECU signal to the ignitor might drive the GM HEI unit, but I'm not sure.... The ignitors are tough - they rarely fail unless overheated. GD

Heh - yeah good luck ETC is usually a function of the ABS controller. In fact I don't know of any system that isn't a function of the ABS controller. Since the ABS has the ability to apply the brakes, it only made sense to add another chip for ETC. You need wheel speed sensors, and the biasing in the sofware.... you would have to customize it or you would have to find a vehicle with similar sized brakes, and with similar weight distribution. GD

Yeah - there's no rotor screw for the EA81 disty. Definately could be a vac leak or something. Those will make it real shaky like that. Spray around the bay with carb cleaner till you find the leak. GD

I used to think that . But there's definate advantages to FI, and just like a *simple* carb, you can also have simple injection. The SPFI is quite simple, and dead reliable - more reliable than any carb, near impossible to clog from random particulates (single high pressure injector with no air bleeds, jets, passages, seals, gaskets, etc, etc), and runs at ANY angle - even upside down if you wanted to install a dry sump. Plus the parts for it are extremely cheap (cheaper than a new Weber by at least 50%), and if you have a failure, each and every part is simple to replace and easily accessed. Additionally, the SPFI ECU is capable of running with only the MAF, TPS and CAS sensors (and the ECU itself of course). The rest can be non-operational but the system will run well enough to get you home. Plus it will tell you what's wrong with it. I can easily carry a MAF, TPS, Disty, and ECU in a small bag under the seat and replace them quicker than anyone could troubleshoot a carb. Just like a carb you still have to understand how it works, and how to fix it. If you don't understand a carb, it make little difference if it's "easy to repair" or not. Same with FI. Once you understand it, the advantages are clear, and no logical individual would say it's less dependable or harder to repair. Ignorant statements to be sure. You people can say what you want, but frankly it's all from FEAR. Those who proclaim from every rooftop that they HATE carbs, and those that do likewise with FI rarely have equal exprience or knowledge of both. Speaking from a perspective of having worked fairly extensively with BOTH (rebuilt, adapted, modified, COMPLETELY UNDERSTAND the theory behind, etc), I can say that I prefer a simple throttle body single injector setup (prefereable with MS) to any carb, and additionally I prefer a non-street legal simplified carb (such as the DGV) to an emissions modified unit like the Hitachi 2 barrel. I have no problems running or repairing any of them, but the carbs as a whole are DEFINATELY more work and head banging than a simple self-diagnostic FI system. Most of the old-timers that fear injection are afraid of one thing - "Computers". They don't understand them, and refuse to learn. Same with nascar - good-ol-boys that don't want to understand. Drink beer, and watch people go around an oval track in decades old technology - *hoping* for someone to crash into the stands for a little excitement. Only some of the early EA81's (never used on an EA71 as far as I know). I think 83 was the last year for the C/W. They have a feedback version of it to, which I've never actually seen. MOST ea81's were Hitachi's. 80-82 the C/W was more common, but you will rarely find it after that. GD

That makes very little sense. Their web site shows them in the catalog. I would call GCK and get the low-down on the situation: 310-532-9222 GD

You modified an EA82 carb disty for your EA81?!?! Cool - I just didn't expect you would actually DO it. I've done it with SPFI disty's and the process is the same, and theoretically it should work as stock. Glad you got it fixed anyway. GD

You could do it on the rear too with some nissan rear disc calipers. GD

Almost sounds like a dirty MAF but I thought we cleaned that. :-\ Might need to clean the IAC too or adjust it. GD

That old saying "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing" applies perfectly here. If you want to render a USEFUL opinion, you should go to college, complete at least an engineering degree, and learn about the fundamentals of research and data collection (such as what constitutes valid conclusions, what constitutes unsubstantiated assumptions that can't be backed up with hard data, what constitutes statistically significant data versus random variation or coincidence, what constitutes real hard data versus unverified "impressions", what constitutes research bias and how to avoid it, etc.). After completing such an education, you probably won't be thinking the same way anymore... but if you still want to maintain the same opinion, then at least you can do so intelligently and may seek some hard data to back up your point of view. Science, at its essence, is a set of rules designed to force us to reason logically, to remove or minimize personal bias, inaccurate assumptions, and all the other things that the average person usually does wrong when trying to think about a problem. *Most* people simply aren't logical or rational to the degree that science demands, unless trained extensively to think that way... so incorrect conclusions are commonplace, often based on little or no evidence other than what that person wants to think is important. You have fallen into this trap, and I personally am sick of it. GD

MAKE SURE it's not a feedback model. If it's got an ECU under the dash RUN, don't walk, to the next soob. I hate to be the voice of doom here, but.... The EA82 Hitachi's have some really bad problem areas. YES, they can be rebuilt, but the cost to do it right is *probably* going to be more than an SPFI swap. Here's the problems in the order of most to least severe: #1. The choke spring on the EA82 Hitachi is almost always broken or about to break at the hook that operates the choke plate. I've searched the land far and wide on the two occasions that I needed one and found one in good shape and another only partially worn through in about 30 carbed models at 3 different yards. They are a pain in the rear to find, and it takes 10-15 minutes to get the thing off to even see if it's broken. The number of dissapointing times I've had to knock out those stupid rivets only to find a broken spring is probably 10 hours of my life I'll never get back. #2. This is for all the Hitachi's - EA81 and EA82. The float's like to stick. The rebuild kits that are commonly availible are crap, and the needle valve's in the stick closed. Very hard to troubleshoot - I had one that would do it like once every couple months. Just when I thought it was fixed it would stick again. Very annoying. #3. The ones with high mileage suffer from primary throttle shaft wear. They will still run, but they often refuse to return to a decent idle speed. The wear is such that the plates will stick and not allow the shaft to return to it's correct idle spot. This tends to change with temp, so that they will stick either when warm or when cold, etc but not the opposite. It also creates a vacuum leak around the shaft and even with the plate fully closed the idle quality will be poor. This is not easy to correct, as it requires the shaft to be re-bushed, and isn't addressed by a rebuild kit. #4. The feedback models of the EA82 Hitachi are ghastly. Unlike the EA81 feedback (which is pretty simple) they attempted to improve upon it even more and in doing so added a manifold pressure sensor that ALWAYS fails, and costs over $300. Without it you get less than steller mileage, and a constant "ECS" lamp on the dash Personally, I would find a different soob, or find a Holley/Weber 5200 from a ford and rebuild that. At least that's a DFV Weber and should be easy and cheap to rebuild. But it probably wouldn't be a whole lot less than an SPFI swap unless you find one really cheap. I have a bunch of parts for those things - I somehow ended up with like three of them but they are not complete and there's some bits missing. You can have them for shipping if you can find one for parts on the cheap. I think one is a DFV, and the others are 5200's. As for "hating carbs", they can actually be VERY nice and simple. The Weber DGV, and the DFV are good examples. Carbs got a really bad wrap in the 80's when many companies started messing with basic carb design to try and make them meet increasingly difficult emmissions requirements. A BASIC carb is a really beutiful thing. The principle of operation is extremely simple. The Weber we all love is sadly illegal for street use. It's no a DOT approved device, and most of us are breaking the law to use it. This makes it a commodity of sorts because you can't pick them up off anything stock. You are FORCED to buy them from the aftermarket, and we have to compete with the jeep and VW community (etc) for the used ones. The 5200 is less known, but is a licensed copy of the DFV (mirror image of the DGV), and is DOT approved from the late 70's Ford Pinto days, etc. GD

I said "almost", and the only difference between CA and 49 states SPFI is an EGR temp sensor. You wouldn't have noticed it unless you were looking really hard for it. You can't compare it to a 4 Runner ?!?! Also there's the build date stuff - sometimes 88 models get registered as 87's because of late 87 build date. Depends on the DMV. I just had a 92 Loyale (according to the title) with a late 91 build date. GD

82 and newer use a "Fuel Pump Control Unit" under the dash instead of the regulator, and use the tach pulse signal to determine if the pump should be running or not. That's probably what they are refereing to. GD

I got mine through the Beaverton (OR) "Tire Factory". A friend of a friend was the manager at the time, and he turned me onto them as a more economical alternative to BFG's with a very similar pattern. I have seen the "hankook tire" sign out in front of a few other places too. I guess just call and see who carries them. Mine had to be ordered as they didn't *stock* them per-se, but they sold many other hankook car and truck tires so it was no problem. I think it took like 2 or 3 days to get them. I had them mount em on new wheels and then took them home and drilled them for 4 lug. GD

One of the few I've actually *seen* was an 86 GL-10 sedan 2WD automatic. I noted it specifically because it was one of the oldest FI's I've seen. It was maroon. It was also at the junk yard, and I think I pulled it's water pump cause it was new. Some of the electrical sure was different - mostly plugs and such though. GD

Almost all 87 4WD's will be carbed. The few exceptions may be the CA cars as I beleive they did away with the feedback carb in 87. 86 was the first year for SPFI, but it ONLY came on 2WD GL's and GL-10's 85 2WD GL and GK-10's were MPFI non-turbo. DL's were carbed till 88 for sure. 87 is a pretty grey year, but most 4WD's were carbed in my experience. GD

Oh - yeah I've seen some NASTY rust from the beach. But that's over a mountain range, and fortunately very few people actually LIVE there. Most just visit occasionally. Tourist towns and retirement communities. GD

145 is correct, but I generally go to 200 or 250 on all mine. It will not hurt the bearings. Early VW busses used the 36mm nut, and their book spec for them was 250 GD

Actually - I find MOST of the ones I scrap out (or drive!) on www.craigslist.org If you plan it right you can choose any of dozens on there. Most of the ones I pass up are past my ~100 mile range, but that wouldn't be a problem for you.... GD

Just get one from out here - there is NO rust here. And I do mean NO. Just fly out and drive one back - would still be about the same price you are looking to pay for a decent condition 4WD GL out there. And keep your hatch for parts - or at least the parts you may need. With a new undercoating layer, a GL body from out here would be as good as showroom new to you guys out there. I have NEVER seen a single hole in a subaru from rust that didn't come from out of state. Plus the cost out here is minimal. I pick up parts cars and DRIVE them home for $100 to $200 all the time. People dump them for stupid stuff like timing belts and clutches. GD

Korean MT's? That's what I have too - different brand (Hankook) but I'm happy with them. Never had a punture or flat with them, and they are 6 ply. The design of both look to be pretty much replica's of the BFG MT tread pattern and work well in most conditions. They aren't as good as a swamper in really, really nasty stuff, but far better than an AT in my experience. Here's mine (RT01): Hankook has a new one out now that has a more agressive looking pattern, and more sidewall lugs now (RT03). Wish those had been out when I got mine . GD

Like anything it depends on the model. My GF's '02 Accord already needed a new Throttle Position Sensor, and then shortly after a new transmission (auto). Had it not been under warrantee (extended - damn good purchase I might add), that would have been roughly $4,000 in work. It's got just over 80k miles Same with Subaru (and every other manufacturer) - the lets not get big-headed here..... we can't forget the Justy CVT now can we? Or the Gen 1 EJ25's??? It's all about buying the right MODEL. Brand has less to do with it in the majority of cases. Even Chrysler has put out the occasional decent vehicle in the past. GD

+1. The cap is not the problem. You are getting pressurized exhaust into your coolant and it's causeing the coolant to stop circulating because with the cap in place the gasses have nowhere to go. Air (or exhaust) in the system will cause overheating 100% of the time. With the cap off, the gasses are just escaping out the top. The bubbles are VERY small (small leak = small bubbles), and may look like just so much tiny foam in the coolant as it boils out the top. But if the cap is left in place that little foam will collect into a BIG air bubble. I've never had a problem with new Stant caps - as long as it doesn't release pressure at normal operating temp, I would say it's fine. I have experienced bad behavior from non-OEM thermostats so I usually bite the $13 bullet on those. The fact that you had the HG's done 5 years ago makes them MORE likely as they could have used cheap gaskets. Fel-Pro or OEM are the only two I would consider based on my experience, and feedback from other board members. Overflow is empty cause the engine is burning the coolant. GD

I just run it on both sides of the gasket. Glue the gasket into the cover with RTV, and then run another bead on the gasket itself where it seals to the cam tower. Put it all together while the RTV is still wet then let it setup for 30 minutes or so before you start the engine. I have no idea on the part number - someone here may know. GD

Head gaskets exhibit those symtoms usually. Block sealers rarely work on these engines. Once you overheat them a couple times and they have high mileage already, they will often blow.... I've done a couple where the gasket blew into an adjacent coolant jacket passage, and the leak was small enough that it would use coolant and overheat eventually but otherwise ran fine and tested good on compression. Go to the dealer and get a cap and thermostat and give those a try. Forget about the T - just massage the upper and lower radiator hoses while you are filling the coolant till you get no more air bubbles. Make sure the front of the car is pointing uphill at least a little. These engines are notorious for air bubbles and cheap aftermarket thermostats causing overheating. GD

Ok - if you say so It's just a brand I have never heard of, but then I'm no audiophile either I thought that one you got was better? Maybe it just doesn't *sound* as loud now that your car is rust free!? GD