GeneralDisorder

I said "almost", and the only difference between CA and 49 states SPFI is an EGR temp sensor. You wouldn't have noticed it unless you were looking really hard for it. You can't compare it to a 4 Runner ?!?! Also there's the build date stuff - sometimes 88 models get registered as 87's because of late 87 build date. Depends on the DMV. I just had a 92 Loyale (according to the title) with a late 91 build date. GD

82 and newer use a "Fuel Pump Control Unit" under the dash instead of the regulator, and use the tach pulse signal to determine if the pump should be running or not. That's probably what they are refereing to. GD

I got mine through the Beaverton (OR) "Tire Factory". A friend of a friend was the manager at the time, and he turned me onto them as a more economical alternative to BFG's with a very similar pattern. I have seen the "hankook tire" sign out in front of a few other places too. I guess just call and see who carries them. Mine had to be ordered as they didn't *stock* them per-se, but they sold many other hankook car and truck tires so it was no problem. I think it took like 2 or 3 days to get them. I had them mount em on new wheels and then took them home and drilled them for 4 lug. GD

One of the few I've actually *seen* was an 86 GL-10 sedan 2WD automatic. I noted it specifically because it was one of the oldest FI's I've seen. It was maroon. It was also at the junk yard, and I think I pulled it's water pump cause it was new. Some of the electrical sure was different - mostly plugs and such though. GD

Almost all 87 4WD's will be carbed. The few exceptions may be the CA cars as I beleive they did away with the feedback carb in 87. 86 was the first year for SPFI, but it ONLY came on 2WD GL's and GL-10's 85 2WD GL and GK-10's were MPFI non-turbo. DL's were carbed till 88 for sure. 87 is a pretty grey year, but most 4WD's were carbed in my experience. GD

Oh - yeah I've seen some NASTY rust from the beach. But that's over a mountain range, and fortunately very few people actually LIVE there. Most just visit occasionally. Tourist towns and retirement communities. GD

145 is correct, but I generally go to 200 or 250 on all mine. It will not hurt the bearings. Early VW busses used the 36mm nut, and their book spec for them was 250 GD

Actually - I find MOST of the ones I scrap out (or drive!) on www.craigslist.org If you plan it right you can choose any of dozens on there. Most of the ones I pass up are past my ~100 mile range, but that wouldn't be a problem for you.... GD

Just get one from out here - there is NO rust here. And I do mean NO. Just fly out and drive one back - would still be about the same price you are looking to pay for a decent condition 4WD GL out there. And keep your hatch for parts - or at least the parts you may need. With a new undercoating layer, a GL body from out here would be as good as showroom new to you guys out there. I have NEVER seen a single hole in a subaru from rust that didn't come from out of state. Plus the cost out here is minimal. I pick up parts cars and DRIVE them home for $100 to $200 all the time. People dump them for stupid stuff like timing belts and clutches. GD

Korean MT's? That's what I have too - different brand (Hankook) but I'm happy with them. Never had a punture or flat with them, and they are 6 ply. The design of both look to be pretty much replica's of the BFG MT tread pattern and work well in most conditions. They aren't as good as a swamper in really, really nasty stuff, but far better than an AT in my experience. Here's mine (RT01): Hankook has a new one out now that has a more agressive looking pattern, and more sidewall lugs now (RT03). Wish those had been out when I got mine . GD

Like anything it depends on the model. My GF's '02 Accord already needed a new Throttle Position Sensor, and then shortly after a new transmission (auto). Had it not been under warrantee (extended - damn good purchase I might add), that would have been roughly $4,000 in work. It's got just over 80k miles Same with Subaru (and every other manufacturer) - the lets not get big-headed here..... we can't forget the Justy CVT now can we? Or the Gen 1 EJ25's??? It's all about buying the right MODEL. Brand has less to do with it in the majority of cases. Even Chrysler has put out the occasional decent vehicle in the past. GD

+1. The cap is not the problem. You are getting pressurized exhaust into your coolant and it's causeing the coolant to stop circulating because with the cap in place the gasses have nowhere to go. Air (or exhaust) in the system will cause overheating 100% of the time. With the cap off, the gasses are just escaping out the top. The bubbles are VERY small (small leak = small bubbles), and may look like just so much tiny foam in the coolant as it boils out the top. But if the cap is left in place that little foam will collect into a BIG air bubble. I've never had a problem with new Stant caps - as long as it doesn't release pressure at normal operating temp, I would say it's fine. I have experienced bad behavior from non-OEM thermostats so I usually bite the $13 bullet on those. The fact that you had the HG's done 5 years ago makes them MORE likely as they could have used cheap gaskets. Fel-Pro or OEM are the only two I would consider based on my experience, and feedback from other board members. Overflow is empty cause the engine is burning the coolant. GD

I just run it on both sides of the gasket. Glue the gasket into the cover with RTV, and then run another bead on the gasket itself where it seals to the cam tower. Put it all together while the RTV is still wet then let it setup for 30 minutes or so before you start the engine. I have no idea on the part number - someone here may know. GD

Head gaskets exhibit those symtoms usually. Block sealers rarely work on these engines. Once you overheat them a couple times and they have high mileage already, they will often blow.... I've done a couple where the gasket blew into an adjacent coolant jacket passage, and the leak was small enough that it would use coolant and overheat eventually but otherwise ran fine and tested good on compression. Go to the dealer and get a cap and thermostat and give those a try. Forget about the T - just massage the upper and lower radiator hoses while you are filling the coolant till you get no more air bubbles. Make sure the front of the car is pointing uphill at least a little. These engines are notorious for air bubbles and cheap aftermarket thermostats causing overheating. GD

Ok - if you say so It's just a brand I have never heard of, but then I'm no audiophile either I thought that one you got was better? Maybe it just doesn't *sound* as loud now that your car is rust free!? GD

Yeah - when you use larger offset rims, they are generally wider. I'm using 7.5" wide rims, so really most of the extra width (about 2") IS the change in offset. In other words the weight of the car is still pretty much where it was before on the bearings, you just gain more width for larger tires. Really, the bearings last a LONG time in stock form (150k+), so even if it cut the life in half, that's a small price to pay IMO. And most of us tend to NOT drive our lifted rigs as daily's. The tires are too expensive, loss of good mileage, lack of swaybars, and other modifications generally make for a vehicle whose daily characteristics are poor. Add to that the extreme availbility of cheap subarus, and that in stock form they make excelent daily's (especially to someone that has a ready made parts supply and tool-set for his lifted rig), and you have a recipe for a multiple subaru owner in short order. Everyone that has off-roaded with me started with a regular soob, lifted it, then got another one once they found out how much it sucks to not have a daily/parts runner/backup after a few trail runs with me GD

Had mine on the passenger side under the seat, and it took like 60 to 90 minutes to overheat in the summer with no fan (internal or external). But it was an older MTX 150x2 Blue Thunder (mid 90's). A newer amp may be better on heat. GD

Gem Top as recently as a few years ago would still custom build them from their original specs - cost was on the order of $2000 or so IIRC. GD

Mostly retards that did a bunch of other tune up crap at the same time (like replaceing their air filter ), and then exclaim "OH WOW - MY MILEAGE WENT UP HALF A POINT". It's total BS. Also, anyone smart enough to market something like this, has plenty of friends that would say whatever they want for a couple beers, and a slice of the "action". I know I do. BTW, I'm doing Feng Shui these days, and I'm also a pet psychic.... talking to 50 year old houswive's poodles for $300 an hour is just too lucrative to pass up. GD

Sounds like it - the seals aren't prone to failure unless the rack is run without fluid for a while. GD

Figures. Would have been neat to find a custom turbo sedan. GD

Do you already have power steering? And how do you know your rach is shot? They are almost indestructible, so it's not very common. If not you need the entire engine cross-member. The PS rack will not fit into the non-PS cross-member. I haven't seen a non-PS EA82 in a while, but on the EA81's the steering linkage is also different - such that you have to do something custom, or you have to swap the entire steering column.... but I suspect the EA82's aren't like that. GD

I had one under the passenger seat, but it would overheat on really long drives and turn itself off after about 1.5 hours. I think this next time I'm going to put it on the roof - good airflow in the summer with the windows down, and theives rarely look "up" when scanning a car. Besides it's a cheap amp anyway in my case. You could put it behind that panal, and drill a hole pattern on the door with some small PC fans mounted to it. That would give you the airflow needed to cool it and still retain the hidden look. GD

#1. Being that's an 84, it would have a 2 barrel Hitachi. They obviously know sooooo much about this application . I'm sure their detail oreiented test engineers simply overlooked the second barrel. #2. This is priceless: " If you're not completely happy with your Vortex Valve™, we'll pay you back what you paid us when you bought it! The reason we are able to offer this kind of spectacular guarantee is simply because we know the amazing "track record" of the Vortex Valve™, which now includes thousands of happy customers." It's sad how they prey on people. They are simply banking on the fact that most people can't even calculate mileage correctly, let alone do the proper testing that would most likely show an increase in fuel consumption or nothing at all. But people WANT to see an improvement, so they do. It's just a matter of knowing what outcome you want and figureing out how to rationalize it. Happens in scientific communities all the time - smart people are very good at rationalizing things they came to beleive for non-smart reasons. GD

Count the splines on the front outputs - 23 is an NA trans, and 25 is a turbo. If it's 23 you can be pretty sure it's a normal D/R. GD