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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. Seems like he does that a lot. Or his other MO is discovering things that are possible only with his brand of physics. He also excels at finding things that don't exist at all. He would make an excelent guest star or "expert" for one of the ghost hunting shows. GD
  2. This is nothing new. 6 x 5.5 conversions are all over the place - including my driveway GD
  3. Year??? There's a big difference from EA81 to EA82
  4. I've done both - multiple times. And I've put over 20,000 miles on my 86 EA82 with the Weber and it's not come loose yet. I used the bolts that came with the kit. Can't remember if I used the black ones or the silver ones for the bottom plate, but I know I didn't tap anything. GD
  5. Legacy seats are not easy to install - it requires cutting and welding as do most seats other than the originals. It would help if you told us what you are putting them in?? GD
  6. Have to build your own, or have one built. You just remove the stock bumper, and start cutting steel. EA81 is too narrow, and will not easily adapt. GD
  7. Hankook and Khumo are both Korean, and they are major competitors. Frankly the sidewall lugs, and the Hanks are 6 ply.... they advertise in all the major off-road mags these days. They are really trying hard to compete in the hard-core market. Plus you can actually GET the hankooks - can't find any place around that can get the Khumo's - everyone says they are backordered or you can't get that size, yada, yada. Mine have been great - never had a flat, and they are wearing just fine. Plus they make both those tread patterns in a 215/75R15, which is a great size for a mild lift. GD
  8. There is no external ignitor on carb models..... it's inside the distributor. The "ignitor" is used on fuel injected engines so the ECU can control the coil. The carbs use a hall-effect distributor to trigger the coil and mechanical/vacuum advance for the timing. The external ignitor is neccesary for FI as the ECU does all the timing adjustments and needs to trigger the coil when it chooses. GD
  9. The don't make rears. There really doesn't seem to be all that much need for them normally. I build my own with EA82 rear joints, new boots/grease, and SS hose clamps. GD
  10. Yeah - the thing is the speedo is where the tach is on the EA82's, so the cable bends around a lot more. It's definately possible, but I prefer to pull the cluster. But then I'm 6' 2", and it wrecks my back when I get down under the dash for long periods. GD
  11. I can pretty much guarantee you will never get your hand up in there on an EA81. The way the dash is molded there is no access to the cable from underneath. GD
  12. Ah - yes. Just pull the cluster - it's easier than fooling about under the dash, and gives you a chance to clean stuff in there anyway. GD
  13. That's how I did mine too. But I drilled them with the tires already mounted. Didn't matter. It's never had any balance problems. I like the look, and the offset of those rims, and they are comparitively cheap..... mine were $25 each, but I got deal since I bought my tires at the same place, and the manager was a friend of a friend. Was just shy of $500 for all 4. GD
  14. Only the new ones (not including the defender). The old stuff is amazing. GD
  15. It would seem like 1/4 and 2/3 would be the right choice. When 1 is fireing, 4 is at the bottom of it's power/exhaust stroke. Same with 2/3...... although that means the when 4 is fireing, 1 is at the bottom of it's intake stroke.... so myabe that's not a good combination. Fireing order is 1-3-2-4.... so why exactly does the wasted spark have to occur when the cylinder is at BDC?? My choice would be 1/2 and 3/4 for the wasted spark as that prevents fuel mixture from comming into contact with the wasted spark. 1 is on compression, while 2 is on exhaust, and since the spark fires before TDC, it should never come in contact with cylinder #2's intake charge. Anyway, that makes sense to me - I would go with 1/2, and 3/4. GD
  16. Definately easier to pull the cluster than to try and mess around under the dash..... but unless your cable sheath is shot why not just slide a new cable in? From the tranny side it pulls out, and you grease up the new one, and run it right in through the old sheath. GD
  17. 81 GL's were the only Gen 1 that came with the EA81 and 4 speed D/R. They have the same drivetrain as the EA81 Gen II body's, and a different (and rare) front cross member to allow the EA81 to fit. GD
  18. Usually just means you need to add some brake fuild - it expands as it warms up, so you are probably right on the border where the switch is cutting in and out. My 86 does that as the pads wear. GD
  19. The outside one is the "retard".... at least I'm pretty sure it is. You can check them by applying full manifold vaccum instead of ported vaccum and with a timing light check what the timing does. At any rate, what it "sounds" like when you remove hoses is no kind of definative test. I'm just going off what I remember from when I did my 86. GD
  20. Yeah - I like using the auto's as they spin faster, and it doesn't sound like my battery is dieing all the time GD
  21. There IS (or was) a switch also on the 4WD lever. Believe me - it's there. The one inside the tranny is supposed to be for "lo", but since you have a single range it is tuning the "lo" light on even with it in high because on single range vehicles that switch DOES operate the "4WD" lamp. But on D/R vehicles it only operates "lo", and the 4WD switch is on the back of the lever. It's underneath the plastic consoles inside the cab. You have an EA82, which is COMPLETELY different. You are just going to confuse the poor fellow. GD
  22. 4WD indicator switch is on the 4WD lever - it's a black plastic push type switch. You may need to adjust the lever or something. GD
  23. But it will still run rich (think 15 MPG), and the they are NOT the same "critter". The EA82 ecu controls the fuel pump, and has more sensors than the EA81 ecu (manifold pressure, etc). For example "just removing" the ecu from an EA82 feedback will render the fuel pump inoperative. I have removed both styles and replaced with Weber's both on my 84 and my 86, so I know a thing or two about feedback Hitachi's. GD
  24. Nice! And only about 10% more than the RT01's when I got em 2 years ago. Let us know how you like em. They look burley. "Free shipping" really means it's figured into the price, so they are probably about the same if you find a place that can get em local. Plus those are 2" bigger than mine - those two factors probably account for the price difference. GD
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