GeneralDisorder

You need to trace the wires from the ECU. It's not a simple task, and sorry to say you are pretty much on your own. Get some wireing diagrams and go to town. Very few people have done this, and you are going to have to work out what each of those parts is for and if you need it or not. GD

Usually, once the gasket is bad enough to start leaking, tightening the bolts won't do any good. And for the amount of work needed to get at the bolts, you may as well just put in a new HG. I have never seen an EA82 head gasket leak externally. Not saying it's impossible, but all the ones I've seen were internal leaks. Looking at the oreintation of the cylinders and the water jacket passages..... doesn't look very likely unless the gasket was improperly installed. GD

Being that the belts only last about 50 to 60k anyway, I would go with the cheap kit, and then use dealer belts. Save the cheap belts for spares. I can't see you haveing problems with the cheap tensioners and idler - not in 60k anyway. Leave your covers off though - in case they really are crap, it won't be hard to change them. GD

Should all be in there, yeah. The black ECU should work fine with the loyale wireing. Just make sure you get an ECU from a 5 speed (2WD or 4WD - doesn't matter). GD

Weight is weight. Period. You can't change the weight of a car by adjusting the suspension. Physics does NOT work that way. Can you just leave please? GD

As carfreak already said it's the HEADS. Subaru knew this - that's why the Turbo's got dual port heads. With forced induction the turbo's were capable of 170 HP in race spec. RAM engines knows this - their dual port EA81 heads run 140 HP N/A, and 200 HP supercharged. It's all in the heads and the intake/exhaust. Your precious coolant passage in the intake has almost nothing to do with it. And you can't do away with it - it's a major part of the coolant flow to the heads. You would have to build a new intake and re-route it through a seperate hose. RAM does that with their intake's, but you almost have to if you are building a new intake unless you have casting ability. GD

I got $32 for it! It will live on as a chevy or something probably. GD

Probably, but it doesn't hurt it to twist it a little, and there's like thousands of those mounts in the yards. I guess if I ever have a problem I might bother slotting it or something. I think I stole that nut for the mount actually. But I can't remember. Only noticed it wasn't there when I took the pic. Doesn't affect it really. None of that stuff is load bearing - it's just there to hold the linkage so it has a pivot point for the shifter. I've been thinking about seeing how a legacy or impreza linkage would fit in there. From pictures I've seen the design is basically the same with just some changes to make it smoother and tighter, and a shorter throw. GD

Orginally designed as a snowmobile transmission. The Justy's with CVT's rarely made it past 100k, and usually not even that much. The CVT Justy made it on the list of 100 worst cars of all time. The transmissions are no longer made, and are no longer availible from Subaru. When they were, the cost was around $6,000. They cannot be rebuilt easily. In fact dealerships were instructed not to dissasemble them as they were not equipped for the job. They contain a magnetically charged "dust", and after around 100k miles of service, the continuous heating/cooling cylcing of the transmission fluid causes the failure of the cone/dust setup. They can be converted to 5 speeds if you get the parts together. GD

You can read my write up on it here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

#1. No.... or yes. Depends, and it's not that simple. Depends on what's wrong. #2. Huh? I can't read your mind, so unless you take pictures or learn the correct terminology for the parts I have no idea what you are asking. Middle? In relation to what? The moon? No idea what you are refering to. GD

Order the CORRECT jets. It's not a matter of smaller or larger. Just go with the default jetting and you will be fine. Don't try to mix and match stuff - you'll just end up worse off unless you really know what you are doing, or have a wideband O2 setup to tune it with. Take the top off, see what you have and go from there. Order what you need to make it right. I have never had a problem with the above mentioned jetting on any EA series engine. GD

Idle jets are on the front and back of the carb, and are the only ones accesible from outside the carb. To change the main's and air bleeds you must remove the top of the carb, and unscrew them. The mains are in the bottom of the float bowl, and the air bleeds are on top between the the bowl, and the air horns. The smaller of the two barrels (the one with the throttle linkage attached to it) is the primary, and should have the 170 air bleed. Secondard should eb 160, and the both mains should be 140. And put the 60 idle jets back. Those are fine. 80 is much too large. With the correct stock jetting I get 28 to 30 on my sedan, and about the same on my Brat when it was carbed. GD

Not enough power to keep the choke heated - fast idle cam was probably engaged. GD

EA82's aren't light - that's the reason they ride so much smoother than the EA81's with basically the same suspension. Were you in it when you weighed it? I was recently at the scrap yard too, and my Brat with me in it, was 2240 pounds (totally empty except for me). It's currently sporting the heavier EA82 and a 5 speed D/R but is otherwise stock. I'm about 200 even, so that puts the Brat at 2040 lbs?!? I really don't think it's accurate. But on the other hand, 90 HP moves the Brat at a pretty amazing clip. Really pretty amazing what 16 HP over stock will do for a light rig. What I think both of us are expereiencing is the innacuracy of a truck scale at very low weights (in comparison to what they normally experience). The scales at these places aren't really calibrated all that well I suspect. They aren't intrested in the *actual* weight so much as the difference between when you come in, and when you leave. When all you care about is the change in weight, you don't need it to be totally accurate - if you are 500 pounds off it doesn't matter so much - the difference between 1500 and 2000 is the same as the difference between 2000 and 2500. I wouldn't be surprised with a scale of that size if it didn't register at all with you just standing on it. At any rate, our simple tests are by no means conclusive, but I suspect your's is a little high, and mine is a little low. I really don't think an EA82 wagon is 1000 lbs heavier than my Brat. GD

What jets did you change? Default jetting for an EA71/EA81/EA82 is as follows: 140/140 mains 170/160 air bleeds F50/F50 emulsion tubes 50 idle jet(s) My crystal ball tells me you have a Weber with two idle jets and you changed from 60's to 80's? That will effect ONLY the idle mixtures. You need to change the main jets and air bleeds to correct your mileage problems. Also are you lifted? My wagon with a perfectly tuned weber runs about 20 to 24 MPG give or take. Same Weber it had when it was 2WD and getting 32 MPG. Lifted rigs just don't do well on the mileage end due to the gearing, and the rolling resistance of big tires. GD

Yeah - fairly normal for a cold engine. Especially this time of year. I advocate working guages be installed on ALL EA series soobs. The lack of a guage on my digi-dash 84 wagon caused the destruction of it's engine at a mere 165k. If it had a guage at the time, I would have known it needed a new oil pump. GD

So maybe all along I was just giving it too high of a resistance. Perhaps the solenoid I had was also out of range. I do have some 5 watt 33 Ohm units here. Maybe I'll give that a go. That's sounding likely actually - I don't get the code in regular driving, ONLY in D-Check. So the D-Check diagnostic is probably a lot more precise in what it will accept for the resistance of the unit. Sounds like 33 Ohms is the ticket. I'll give it a go and see what I come up with. They have been sitting here on my desk for a month now. I'll get em installed and see what happens. GD

That would work too. If I couldn't get the thing off at the manifold, I would just cut the pipe leaving about 1" of it, then flatten the pipe and weld it closed. Gets the "ugly" out of your bay. That's just asthetics tho. GD

Reduce your idle speed to 700-800, bring the timing back a degree or two (will help with the too-high idle), and adjust the idle mixture properly. It's all about the fine adjustments to stop the deiseling. You get the hang of it eventually. My first try with a Weber I had that problem for a while too. You need to get the idle to where it's running ENTIRELY with the idle circuit, and the throttle plate is closed. You do have the vacuum advance hooked to the ported carb vacuum port and not the manifold right? Manifold vacuum will cause the idle timing to be way too high. GD

We have told you this before - the sprocket is SUPPOSED to be like that. It was not manufactured a half tooth off. Damn you are dense. Stop spreading lies and mis-information. You are NOT right. Got it? Furthermore, all SPFI engines were 90HP. GD

Yeah, I've thought about it too. But I'm guessing that without the code-base for it, it would take months of work just to get anywhere with it's software. Although if it's something simple that an assembler was easy to find for, it might not be too hard to re-write the firmware for it, or locate the sections that reference the EGR and Purge solenoid control lines and just eliminate that section of code. It's probably a sub-routine that could just be NOP'd out and be made to return a valid "I'm ok" when called. I think that's going to be my solution as all my rigs are not under test laws anyway. More configurability for my modified cam, etc. Plus the ability to turbo the EA81. The software of the SPFI ecu doesn't handle positive manifold vacuum situations well from what Rguyver has told me. GD

Once again you stuff both feet in your mouth. This is EA81 land - it's entirely different. Please take your word-salad elsewhere. Hatchsub: Yes, pulling the vacuum line is sufficient if they are so equipped. They will simply not function. Make sure to remove all the hoses and the plastic "silencers" from the valve to the air-box so that if the reed valve inside the housing ever fails you won't suck melted plastic into your carb (been there - not cool). It would be better though to invest in a LARGE pair of vice grips and unscrew the big tube at the spacer under the head. Then use either a pipe plug in there, or make a plug by welding the coller up from the old fresh air supply pipe. You MUST leave the spacer or your exhaust will not reach, and will hit on the cross-member, or be at a bad angle and will strip the bolts out of the heads. Plus the spacers provide an excelent solid steel base to tap over to 7/16x20 and install some stainless steel studs. GD

I'll have to photo mine I guess. The idea is to put it on the bolt, then push it to the drivers side before you lock down the nut. Yes, it does bend the rubber mount a bit. That's how Jerry told me to do it, and it's worked fine for me. GD

I think it's great that at least *some* females are not hopelessly worthless when it comes to making something work. I can speak for most men in saying that it's an attractive quality - heck just look at those stupid swimsuit garage calendars with models holding various greasy wrenches and air tools... Maybe it's just me, but I hate helpless females. My GF was right there helping when we did the timing belts on her Camry. She wanted to know what everything was for, and how it was being done. She's not a mechanic by trade so I wouldn't expect her to know how to do a t-belt job, but still she was interested. Even went to the parts store and ordered all the parts herself before we got started. GD