GeneralDisorder

Turbo engines don't show as high on the values due to their lower compression. Those numbers don't look that bad. They are even and that's all that matters as different test methods can affect the results to quite a large degree. GD

We're talking about REAR axles here. Why anyone that owns enough tools to remove a rear axle from the car would bother having someone else rebuild them is beyond me. They are simple, and the joint components are easily obtained for much, much less than the cost to have them rebuilt. GD

Please - quote this "law" of your's. Here - I'll go first: "Congress shall make NO LAW ... abridging the freedom of speech" --Constitution of the United States. Empty threats of forcing your stupidity on others using cops with guns (ie: makeing it the law to disagree with you, and to do it in my own choice of words) is lame. If you don't like what I think of your ideas.... well here's another quote for ya: "It is best to keep your mouth shut and be presumed ignorant than to open it and remove all doubt." --Samuel Clemens. You sir, have already removed all doubt. GD

Yeah - I think I have some normal EA81 drivelines. But it's not going to be cheaper. They aren't going to reuse the tubing. They will use new tubing and balance it properly, etc. Seems the going rate is around $100 to $150. GD

You two are buying different axles. They are out of EA82 axles, but they have plenty of EA81 axles. GD

EA81's never had two-peice drivelines. That was an EA82 thing. Your's already has the two peice because someone put in a 5 speed. As does my Brat. But no EA81 (hatch or otherwise) came with a 2 peice stock. The Hatch is the only EA series soob that has a different wheelbase. It's shorter making the stock single peice too short for a 5 speed, and the EA82 two-peice too long. I've never tried an EA81 (non hatch) single peice against a hatch with a 5 speed, but I suspect it will be just a tad too long or short. So that if you want a 5 with Hatch, it's custom driveline time. Good times on the Hatch. They are fun. GD

The bearings last so long, and are so cheap, that this is really acedemic. If they are properly installed, any problems are going to come from the SEALS, not the grease. pumping more grease in isn't going to help when your contamination comes largely from poor seals. Since the axle must be removed to install the inner seal, you may as well replace the seals, and pump grease in with a needle. And if you're not a complete cheap-skate, you should spend the $22 and replace the bearings too. It's not difficult - especially if you prep the bearings in the freezer the night before. If you pump grease into the chamber with a zerk, it's not going to have any expansion room, and will push out of the seals when heated (remember how close we are to the brake rotors). The grease will pickup contaminates, and then as it cools will be sucked back into the bearings. Not to mention you could easily find yourself with greasy brake pads. But more than anything, the effort isn't worth the return. It *sounds* like a good idea till you realize how easy it is to change the bearings, and how cheap they are. GD

I don't have trouble with the EA82's either - but the EA81's are not quite as big. And sometimes a nicer seat isn't a bad thing either. GD

You just unbolt it - there's two bolts inside the filler area that hold the hinge on. GD

EA81's have a single peice driveline, so you just lengthen the original. No need to use the two-peice. GD

Yeah - they don't even begin to report till about 550 degrees. That's actually the reason the O2 is so close to the cat - the cat gets very hot, and helps to heat it faster, and to retain that heat under long periods of idleing. A lot of engines will cool down to the point that the O2 will stop reporting under idle, so they use the 3 or 4 wire heated units. They will start to report at lower temps, but are NOT accurate. Thus your strange readings till it's all completely warm. If you want accurate readings at lower temps you need a heated unit. GD

The O2 does not begin reporting at all until it reaches a certain temp. So when you first start it, what it's showing is not accurate. GD

Makes perfect sense - the EA82T makes more efficient power at higher RPM. And it needs all the help it can get I guess you could swap the gearset with a regular D/R. GD

Actually, you have an EA71. The EA81 is the 1.8, but without the "cam belts" The EA82 is a good little engine. Either one is fine. I'm running mostly EA82's now for "street", and hold my EA81's back for off-road only. The lifter ticking is largely related to poor maintenance, and it's not so much the pump, as it is the pump gasket. They cost about $3, and can easily be done when the timing belts are done. The EA71/EA81 on the other hand *almost always* requires a NEW pump about every 100,000 miles. The pumps actually wear out, and oil pressure drops. They are easy to change though. The EA71 is about 65 HP, the EA81 is 74, and the EA82 is 84. So you are on the lower end of the power spectrum, but the EA71 is a good engine. There's really not a lot of bad things to say about any of them other than the EA82 is by far the most complex to work on of the 3. Once you are used to it, it's really no big deal though. Biggest thing to watch on your EA71 is the oil pressure. Anything below 15 psi hot idle, and it's time for a new pump, new sender, or both. GD

For less than $400 you can buy the tools and parts and have that thing installed in a day - two tops. Most of the people on this board are capable of doing or have done a HG on an EA at one time or another. That's just the type of advise you are going to get around here. You are far, far better off learning something, and doing the job yourself than getting into some unknown vehicle. Don't be such a Nancy - get your hands dirty. If you can take it apart enough to ship the peices to people, then you can put a HG in it. Besides that, I guarantee you will never get $500 from the parts of a DL. No one wants push button tranny's. You might get a few bucks for the fuel injection, but that's about it. $200 tops and WAY, WAY more of your time spent removing, packing and shipping. It's just not worth it. Us Subaru owners are not rich people, and for the majority of us, unless the part is rare, or hard to get in our area, we prefer going to a local yard where we have a large selection, and avoid shipping. Do the right thing - both for your wallet, and for you own peice of mind. You have a nice low mileage fuel injected EA82 there - all it needs it about $150 worth of parts, and weekend of your time. You won't find much sympathy for a situation like that unless both your legs are broken. GD

Rear axles, unlike front axles, are 100% rebuildable with no special tools. There's many companies that will sell you the joint components. The shafts themselves never wear out, only the joints. So you just buy new joint sets and build your own. Or have cvaxles.com make you some if you are really, really lazy. I'm sure MWE would make them too. I use the inner rear joints from EA82's as they are deeper than stock and allow more suspension flex. Rockford CV makes the joint components and boots - I've heard they are a good source for that sort of thing. Check out my write up on the EA81 rear axles: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html I believe what you read is that another member ordered some GCK rear's through autozone, and due to an error in Autozone's computer system received front's instead. The error was not that GCK "no longer" makes them. The error was that GCK NEVER made them, and someone doing the cataloging assumed that fronts and rears are the same. The error is 100% autozone's, and had nothing to do with GCK as they don't make rear's, and never have. GD

Lower seats - such as the XT/XT6 seats work well. I have Isuzu Impulse seats in my Brat, and it's almost too low at times. I'm 6' 2", and a 6' 5" man would feel right at home in them. GD

Not in WA. I have 20 year old radiators that are fine. That said, if it's not a 2 row, it should be - especially for your uses. GD

O2's bounce a lot - especially old ones. That's just how they report. The ECU averages the readings over a short time period, and I would think your meter would be doing something similar. Newer O2's bounce faster, and start to slow down as they age. GD

GD's language (I know the guy pretty well...) is english. From what I can tell, your's appears to be gibberish (much like chinese, I know it when I see it, but still can't understand it). And as far as I know you are the only one here fluent in early 21st century stupid, so who's going to translate eh? GD

This thread is over three years old.... GD

This is all about timing and idle speed/mixture. If you have it set properly it will not do that. The Weber adaptor plates don't cover the hole all that well, but then they really aren't meant to as the Weber doesn't need to have it's base heated. Block the coolant flow to the base of the carb. Best way I've found is to poke a small bit of window screen into the hole, and fill it with JB weld up to almost the top and let it cure. That's all about the choke, and the idle speed/mixture again. It also could be a vacuum leak from the carb base. When the carb is cold, the fast idle cam is engaged, and if there are any slight vac leaks under the carb it won't have enough vacuum to pull any fuel into the main circuit, and since the fast idle cam is engaged, it can't run on the idle circuit - so it dies out. You can move/bend the thottle cable mount, or you can get one of the mounts that bolts to the back two bolts of the Weber. Some kits come with them, and some do not. You can't adjust the mixture settings of the carb without changing the jets. This requires removing the top of the carb to access them, and you would need to get a "jet kit" that contains many different sizes of jets. The only adjustment on the carb for mixture is the idle mixture. Everything else is jetted. The stock jetting, and what most have found works best is 140/140 mains, 170/160 air bleeds, F50 emulsion tubes, and 50 or 60 idle jets. For a stock engine this is about perfect. GD

No - not in the US anyway. That ad is AUS. GD

Well - for one we didn't have Brats in 90, and yes - all that data is for the US market. GD

The problem with ALL of the options listed thus far is they sit WAY too high. The whole reason many of us want to yank the old seats is they sit too high to begin with - add a Legacy seat into the mix, and watch me smack my head on everything. The reason I went with the Impulse seat is that it's VERY thin. As in 2" or more lower than the stock EA81 seats. The whole bottom of the seat is like 4" thick at most. They are quite comfortable, and I'm probably going to have them redone at some point. Take a look at the legacy seat picture above, and notice the location of the door speaker in relation to the seat bottom, then take a look at mine: For me they work quite well. On the other hand my GF, and my ex GF (both 5' 3" or so) are unable to drive it without sitting on a phonebook or pillow to reach the pedals. The seat sits so far back and so low, that even all the way forward, they can barely drive it with a lot of effort. The seats are using the stock impulse locations for the rails. I love them, but short people beware. The Saturn ones seem like an interesting option - I'll have to look at those and see if there's a way to make them lower. GD