GeneralDisorder

Some do, and some do not. Just like GL/DL models, not all Loyale's were tilt. It's a crap shoot - I've seen Loyales with power windows and no tilt, and I've seen models with crank windows and no tilt too. It's like a cracker jack box with the Loyales's - since they all have the same badging ("Loyale"), it's impossible to know what you will find inside it. GD

Probably wet carpeting. The underlayment (insulation stuff) holds wetness like crazy. Rip out the carpet and I bet you find the culprit. It can stay wet for years under there. Probably got wet when the winsheild leaked. Also make sure the floor pan grommets are in place and sealed. GD

To build a hi-po EA81 you are looking at right around $800 to $1000 for parts and labor (that you can't do yourself). Here's the breakdown of mine: Chrome Rings: $55 Oversized bearings (crank, and rod) + turned crank: $75 from a board member that no longer needed them - about $150 his cost. Gaskets: $100 (Fel-Pro head set + conversion set, OEM manifold [intake/exhaust], pan, pump seals, etc) Heads milled .025": $75 for both Delta 252 RV torque ground cam + all new hydro lifters: $135 Bottle brush to do the cylinder walls: $65 Parts car for 1600 pistons $1 That's alredy $506, and I've been very careful about how I spend - it took me a year to gather everything (I bought a whole car just to part it for the pistons). And I didn't even consider fluids, heli-coil's, cost of my special wrist pin tool, RTV, calipers, micrometer, ect, etc, etc. It's not a cheap process. Doing it requires some investment in tools, and a not insignificant investment of time and research. Being that the cost is pretty high in comparison to what the vehicle will likely be worth when it's done, I sugest building the highest quality engine you can - that means starting with a hydro lifter block. I wouldn't invest the time or money in a solid lifter engine - it's just too much work. GD

Reman disc's are generally fine. It's the pressure plate you want to replace with new. GD

If that's all you've seen, then you haven't seen much. Bunch of AUS guys with 4" lifts is all that is. There's people running around with 10 and 12 inch lifts with nissan or sammi t-case setups, etc. That video is nothing to write home about. GD

SPFI, and pushbutton 5 speed. Pretty basic the Loyale's are. Same size inside as any other EA82 wagon. GD

So even though you admit it's a waste of time, you are still going to do it? The definition of insanity is doing something repeatedly and expecting a different result each time. By doing it, you are silently supporting the very system you think someone should make "better", thus the powers that be will assume everything is OK. That's irresponsible. You are PART of the problem by acting in that way. Everyone starts with the same respect - their actions determine whether they earn more or less. Respect is not "deserved", it is earned, and everyone starts with 100%. GD

You DO need sealant on the carb base as there is a coolant passage under there. If you install them dry, there's a good chance it will "weep" coolant. I use Edelbrock "gaskachich" which is something like rubber cement. GD

It is not really possible to install the disc backwards - the spring plate will not fit in the flywheel side. It will be 31 flavors of f'd up if you do, and I doubt the PP would even bolt on. There would be serious metal-on-metal sounds, and nothing would feel right. Not even a chimp would put one together that way - round peg, square hole for sure. GD

That information MIGHT have been useful 6 MONTHS ago, when this question was asked. GD

You really, really ought to stay out of the EA81 threads till you have worked on a few. The Brat door is not like ANY other subaru. It is not chrome, and it does not have a pushbutton. It's painted the same as the body, and it has a spring loaded twist knob that confuses the hell out of all the station attendants. GD

Yeah - tell me about it :-\ We've been putting up with it for a while now. Unfortunately he doesn't get the message - prefering instead to presume that I'm the only one that doesn't understand him, when in large part NO ONE understands him. There's just not a lot of people like myself that will stand up and call BS. You should see some of the ranting I've done to try and keep the information accuracy on the up and up around him GD

Nope - all our EA81's got the 306 (or the carter/weber). Maybe you guys got em on those later brumby's and such, but we never did. GD

It comes in rolls of various sizes (12" wide by 36" long is common) - Napa's actually usually a good source. If you are really high speed, they make pretty inexpensive punch sets to make perfect round holes - you can use a larger hole size (like 3/4") to make the radius of the intake port, and a smaller hole size to make the bolt holes. Just makes the process quicker, but isn't needed. The punch's are often used in leather working too, or you can use the copper tubing compression rings from home cheapo too - those are really cheap, but usually come in big bags, and they dull so have to be tossed eventually. Having a couple thicknesses of gasket paper, and a utility knife around can save hours of driving, and talking to retards behind counters. And can many times save days of waiting for those difficult to find gaskets. The simple realization that YOU TOO can cut out bits of cardboard with a pen-knife is a powerful concept that is all too foreign in our (consumer based/buy-it-now/die in the snow cause you are too stupid to make fire) society these days GD

Dealership should stock them. Utility knife beyond your abilities??? GD

EA81 Hitachi is a 26/30 (DCP-306 series). EA82 is a 28/32 (DCP-328 series). Different base. Cut your own from a roll of gasket paper. Cheaper too. GD

Should make less noise when properly adjusted, but more than a hydraulic lash adjuster equipped engine. The adjustment procedure is simple - requireing only a feeler guage, 6, 10, and 12mm wrenches. You remove the rocker covers, rotate the engine to TDC for each cylinder and adjust the valves for that cylinder. Takes about 20 minutes start to finish. As far as who to have do it - I wouldn't trust any shop to adjust valves. Dealerships rarely have any more experience than you do, and most shops that know anything about non-hydraulic valve systems are too concerned with hot-rods and would laugh at your subie. Besides that it's such a simple procedure there's no need to have a shop do it. The adjustment is required every 15,000 miles. If allowed to go too long, you risk bending a push-rod, or wearing out a rocker (maybe breaking one), etc. GD

While that might seem to be true, you have to realize that *most* problems that result in slight decreases in compression at 200 RPM (testing speed) do almost nothing at actual engine running speeds of thousands of RPM's. This is why we keep repeating that the testing NUMBER's do not matter. It's the percentage difference that matters. Anything above about 75 psi per cylinder should run fine. Lower compression ratios, testing insturmentation, testing parameters, starter speed, etc all work against comparing your numbers with anyone else. A proper leakdown test would be needed to tell ANYTHING about the engine's state of wear. The fact that your numbers are all pretty close would tend to indicate that your engine is in GOOD general mechanical shape. You simply cannot draw any other conclusions from a simple compression other than that. You have 4 cylinders, and any problems that would cause loss in mileage would tend to NOT occur in all 4. You would generally have 1 or two cylinders showing bad readings - if that were the case you would then go ahead with a leak-down to verify the exact nature of the problem. GD

Some are, and some aren't - by that I mean the fitment of the cap, and if there is even still a rubber seal under it. Remember you are dealing with a 15 to 20 year old car. Most likely the cap/rotor has been replaced several times, and probably not with OEM parts. If you get a new rubber seal, and a quality cap you shouldn't have any trouble unless you blast a lot of water through the vent hole on top. There's a reason they make rubber booties for toy's and baja VW's and stuff. Been meaning to try and cram a Hitachi distributor onto on of the VW distributor booties that EMPI makes. They are like $20. GD

Water got into the crank angle sensor of the distributor probably. It's very sensitive as the slots on the disc are small, and the infra-red emitter will be refracted by the tinyest drop of water. Keeping a can of WD40 around to dry out distributor components is a good idea. You can also cover the distributor with a common rubber surgical glove, poke the wires through the fingers, and put a rubber band around the wrist area to cover the whole unit. GD

Yeah - freezing the bearings will cause them to contract ever so slightly. Helps getting them installed. Pack them first, then freeze them in a zip-lock. You can also heat up the hub with a propane torch (mapp gas works well), for further ease of install. This is common practice in the bearing industry with the assembly of new electric motors, ect. Just DO NOT dowse the thing in water to cool it. Allow it to air-cool. GD

Jim has pointed out that *some* of the DFV/5200's have the same size venturi. Some also do not - but I beleive that's mostly the 5200's equipped on some of the Ford's. Caboobaroo bought one at a swap meet that we compared side by side with a DGV, and it definately had smaller venturi's. In all cases is seems the air horns and float/chamber are smaller. In the case of the one's I have, it's difficult to tell without pulling out the calipers on it (were talking a matter of just 1mm in some cases). But really the DFV, and (especially) 5200's are questionable at best. Stick with a good DGV from Jim and you'll be better off. *edit* Interestingly, it appears they were availible in three different venturi sizes (which radically effects the CFM) - here's the low-down: 330 CFM 26mm primary venturi: 270 CFM 23mm primary venturi: 235 CFM (1979-82 Fords) This is all from the Wiki page on the "32/36": http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php/Weber_32/36_Carburetor It should probably be noted that the EA81/EA82 is only capable of about 200 CFM, and that would be a 8,000 RPM. The larger barrels and the progressive linkage help tremendously with low-end torque however. It's important to realize that there won't be any appreciable gain in high-end with any Weber over the stock Hitachi. Your top speed is going to be the same either way unless you have a modified engine capable of using the improved CFM. There is also a Holley 6200 that was a electronic feedback version of the 5200. Looks can be deceiving - just cause it looks like a Weber, may not mean it's going to give you the same results as a shiny new DGV. GD

Thanks for the info Jim. I'll add what I know about the "Holley/Weber". First, it's a licensed "copy" of the Weber 32/36 DFV, which is *sort of* a mirror image of the DGV, but they really share very few parts in common besides jets, and some internal bits like the float, etc. Second, the licensed versions of the carb have problems - as Jim pointed out the linkage, and cable mounts are wrong, and not easily replaced. They are also fitted for most of the same emmissions requirements as the Hitachi - makeing them more complex. Third, (and there's several people on here that can back this up), the DFV/5200's casting has smaller venturi's. The base of the carb is the same size, as are the throttle plates, but the venturi's are not. Just take a look at the difference between the DGV choke plates, and the 5200 choke plates - thus the DFV/5200 does not have the same flow as the DGV. This also has the unfortunate side effect that the typical DGV jetting will not work on the DFV/5200. It will require different sized jets to accomidate the smaller flow of the venturi's. The catch being that the jetting needed is NOT DOCUMENTED. So you have to buy a jet ket, and mess around with it to tune the engine properly. Here's some quick comparison shots (this is a REAL DFV, but I have a holley 5200 also, and it's identical): Notice how small the puny DFV/5200 choke plates are compared the gapeing maw of the DGV . And notice the venturi sizes, and the overall larger construction of the DGV on the right. This is why the price of the DGV is higher - they are NOT street legal (not DOT approved), and so you will rarely find them in junk yards. If you do find one it's usually old and worn out, or it's something that was put on by a previous owner. GD

Looks like a fine specimen to me. It couldn't have found a better home I'm sure. More of these guys need to be saved - I see them fairly often at the yards sadly. GD

There's no real tricks to it. You remove the timing belts, and take out the 4 or 5 10mm bolts that hold the pump to the block. There's two seals on the pump, you clean the mating surfaces and reinstall. Takes about the same time as any other timing belt removal type job (front main, water pump, cam seals, etc) - about 2 to 3 hours if you have the covers in place, and about 20 minutes if you don't. GD