GeneralDisorder

Time to yank that carb off and rebuild it. Probably a bad gasket between the top and bottom of the carb. But.... You changed which filter? There's two - one near the fuel pump under the car, and one in the engine bay. The one in the engine bay is usually pretty clean, and doesn't function only as a filter, but rather it's mostly there to trap vapor in the lines and route it to the carbon canistor. Hitachi's are a pain in the butt - but the power loss, and the hill thing - leads me to suspect the under car fuel filter in your case. GD

Pehaps it would be better to count the ribs between the cam and the pulley to determine which is which since there are inconsistencies with regard to dowel pins and markings? Would that result in a single method with which to *always* determine the correctitude of the installation? If it would, then MARK those suckers with a punch or a sharpie or something.... At the end of the day all we are looking for is a method to make sure they are in the right place - if counting the ribs proves to always work, then I would rather do that, and put out that information for future reference rather than muck with all 9 years of FSM's.... GD

Not sure on the ratio, but it's higher in the NW as we get old cars from CA. Cars tend to migrate - they move towards poorer communities as they age.... I would guess that probably 1 in 10 is a feedback maybe - around here at least. That's about the ratio I see in the yards. You can just yank all the feedback stuff off the EA81's and it won't really care. You can put a standard Hitachi setup on it, or a Weber with no modifications other than removing the ECU and duty solenoids. Once the ECU is removed, the dash ECS light loses it's ground circuit, so you will never know the difference. EA82's are the complicated ones as the ECU controls the fuel pump, but not on the EA81. GD

Since it's not a visible area or a load bearing, (if I didn't have a welder) I would just cut out as much rust as possible, POR-15 it, then fiberglass that whole section. At least with fiberglass you can knock it back out later if you want to replace it with some steel, and the stuff is relatively cheap, and will mold into that curved area. Give it a good undercoating and paint the interior side. Alternatively, a small (very small - that stuff is thin) MIG welder is pretty cheap - or you could borrow or rent one. They are easy to use - point and click really. Wouldn't take much to bend a little sheet mental with a ball peen hammer to the right shape, and weld it in place. If I was closer, I would do it for ya - maybe there's another board member around? GD

Dealer only - under the column, and under the heater core hoses. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD

ECS is "emissions control system", or "electronic control system " if you like. Either one will do. You have an EA81 feedback Hitachi. Pull your codes - it's likely to be a coolant temperature sensor, O2 sensor, or possibly something more sinister. But no telling till you pull the codes. Pain in the rear the feedback's are - I sugest you remove it in favor of a standard Hitachi, a Weber, or do the SPFI conversion. Here's the link to my write up on SPFI for the EA81: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Easiest way is to look for the O2 sensor On the EA82 there is a "boost sensor" on the passenger strut tower. It's a black thing about 1.5"x3" that says boost sensor on it. You can also look for the duty solenoids on mounted to the manifold - but those are largely obscured by the filter housing. Also the vacuum routing diagram (if it's still there) will show the duty solenoids, etc. GD

Yeah - go ahead and hook up the PCV. I'm convinced, and besides it can't hurt anything anyway. GD

One wonders why subaru didn't just cast the suckers as one peice. Maybe has something to do with assembly line process or something. Certainly doesn't seem it would be a detriment for the mechanic. GD

Sure. Stick your head in the sand - that always works GD

That sounds WAY wrong. If it doesn't come in a nice pretty white box that says GCK all over it, run far, far away from it. There should be no core as GCK doesn't rebuild axles, and the price should be $100 even - at least it is here in OR, and it was that way for junkie down in CA a couple months ago.... Sounds like a bad counter-jockey. Brute force and ignorance. Put the top spring clip in first, and then pound on it with whatever is handy. Small children work well.... or toss the ufo POS off a bridge and find a proper wheel from an 82 Brat GD

More folks should point to the search - only a few of us do, and only when we think of it. But the answer is that all side-mount EA series starters are interchangable. Cleaning is a good idea - usually they just need the solenoid cleaned up and greased. GD

Couldn't tell you the CFM, but it's got a full shroud around it, and some pretty big blades. It's larger than 12" in diameter anyway. Just a sec - I'll get a photo for ya. Ok - can't get the photo right now. I'm using my Linux box, and it's a mess.... I was wrong - the EA81 fan is 1.75" thick at the brackets/motor houseing. But the blade area is about 1.25" thick. Still a lot thinner than anything you can buy - I've also looked for something as thin/thinner with no luck. It's about 14" in diameter, so that helps with the CFM I'm sure. GD

So try a search. I've answered this many, many times. I think as recently as last week. We get tired of answering stuff, so we point you at the search button cause maybe if you find what you need you'll go there first next time. *I really need to can that response and just copy/paste it whenever stuff like this comes up..... in fact I think I will * GD

Yes - but he's in CA, and we already established in another thread that his engine IS from a feedback CA model. Thus it's just like the one in MY driveway. Hope that clears things up for ya. Also, 4WD's were imported as "multi-purpose vehicles" or simply "MPV", which may be the same as what you called a "light duty truck", but a Loyale wagon don't look like no truck to me, and I have a feeling they are different designations. The exception is the Brat - in 86 and 87 years ONLY it was imported as a truck. Thus those years do not have the jump seats, and Subaru pulled it from the market because they didn't want to pay the ~30% import tarrif on it, and sales were not good enough. And Bob - you are correct. Inner port goes to the ported vacuum on the front of the Weber. The slightly lower of the two weber ports goes to the EGR - that one usually comes from Redline with a small brass bolt threaded into it as many applications do not have EGR. GD

Yikes - that's a fortune that you should try to recover at all costs. Besides they are rarely needed. Water will not hurt them. When you reassemble, should you choose to use the covers, toss the bolts off a bridge and use zip-ties in their place to hold the front covers on. This way you won't have trouble getting the bolts out later. GD

Now that you have posted it rather than searching, go ahead and look at the similar threads listing at the bottom of this page. GD

That's the point tho - I feel it's a fair trade off. Sure they *might* break (mine haven't in 35,000 miles, except due to my shop rag incident), but I will gladly trade the small chance of having them break for making them simple and quick to replace. I carry a spare set, and the single socket I need to change them, and if they break because of age, or because of other damage I'm still ahead because I'm only 10 to 15 minutes late at the most. Plus it makes adjusting the tension, and checking them out for cracks, etc really simple. Routine maintenance becomes a lot easier all around. Probably not too bad down there by Pilot, but up here IN town - forget it. Probably get hit by a truck and wiped out while I'm under the hood. Plus the cops will give you a hard time for working on your beater 20 year old car in commuter traffic. Down south aint so bad since there's simply less congestion. GD

Vac can has nothing to do with 2WD or 4WD - it's the CA emissions models with the feedback ECU that have the two pot can. You use the inner port for the advance, and leave the other port alone (disconnected, and NOT plugged) - it's a vacuum retard used by the ECU on the feedback models. GD

Correct - the mechnical fan is there to cool the AC compressor at slow speeds. It doesn't really do much for cooling the engine. But I think he wants to use that space for added cooling ability. Post in the wanted forum for the EA81 AC fan, and then put in new brushes and grease the bearings. Should be fine for a very long time. They are rugged. Cheaper than a flexalite, and no mods required. You can't shorten the water pump shaft - that would change the orientation of the belt pulley. There's not much room to be gained there - even less with a proper two row radiator. The EA81 AC fan is like 1" thick, and is the perfect fan for the job. Find one and rebuild it. GD

What risk? If you are careful, their's really not much. I dropped a shop rag into the running belts and both snapped, but that was my fualt. I would rather lose a set of belts and only be on the side of the freeway for 10 minutes that to have to be there for 45+ minutes - or more likely get it towed cause it simply would suck to be in the side of the roads around here for that long. Now if you were going to off-road it, then by all means put the covers on. But why you would off-road with an EA82 engine in the first place is beyond me. I sure as hell wouldn't. All mine are street daily's, and if the snow is high enough that it's getting in my engine bay then I'm staying home, or taking my lifted EA81 out to play (still taking the day off). GD

Yep - point the little dot skyward and you can't miss. One tooth off is pretty wonky looking really. The cover marks are superfluous unless you are cross-eyed or something GD

It's a slick little device, but it will only work if a single bulb is burnt out - if both are burnt it will not function. think of it like a two way relay. It's got two electro-magnets that pull on a switch. When both bulbs are good, current energizes both magnets and their two forces exactly cancel each other. If one bulb goes, that circuit is cut, and current no longer engerizes one of the magnets. The other magnet pulls the switch closed and illuminates the dash warning. GD

No need to appoligize. I just wanted to make sure he didn't totally disregard those green's - they have helped me immensly with odd running conditions not detected by U-check. Definately read the codes first as Caleb pointed out. GD

Have you checked the bulbs? There are two seperate elements - one for the tail lamp, and one for the "brake" lamp. When you press the pedal the extra element lights up, and often just he brake element will fail, and the bulb will still work on it's "low" beam element. The low is not as bright, so usually doesn't burn out like the brake element does. GD