GeneralDisorder

They just pull out. I've replaced many of them, and removed many, many clusters. 80 and up are just push-on. The difference in part numbers has to do with the length of the cable, as the early top mount starter cables had the drive in a different spot. This simply aint rocket science here - yank the cluster out and you'll be able to get to it a lot easier. GD

Probably corroded ground connections, coupled with old electrical system, and changes in temp. There's many things that can change your guage. Fuel condenses when it cools, so the same volume of gasoline can drop a bit in the tank when it's cold. Also the more accesories you have turned on, the less current will flow through the sending unit, and the lower your fuel guage will read. This effect is quite pronounced on some EA81's. My Brat does this. When you turn on the headlights, the fuel gauge drops a bit. Check the connection at the sending unit, and make sure your grounds are all looking good. GD

Your mechanic is full of $hit. The timing is correct at 8. 20 is only for fuel injected engines. Setting the base timing of a carb to 20 will result in massive pinging and possible piston damage if the distributor advance's are working. It's possible if you don't have any pinging that your vacuum advance is shot. I wouldn't go back to those idiots. How exactly did they "adjust" it's richness? The Weber doesn't have any adjustments for mixture other than idle. I think they are pulling your wallet. GD

It's not your rack - it's your inner tie rod joints. The whole tie rod unscrews from the rack. Pull back the boot and you'll see. try http://www.rockauto.com for the tie rods. They usually have good prices. GD

With the GL-10 having so many features.... you'll just screw it all up if you try. Believe me - it's a serious, serious endevour. Took me a month to figure out the EA81, and I only wanted *some* of the gauges cause it's my off-roader, and I use Autometer guages for better accuracy. But my situation arose because the EA81 dash's have a tendancy to fail that the EA82 dash's do not. Otherwise I would have never bothered. The EA82 digi's are cool, and very rarely have problems. If you want an analog dash it's a lot easier to just find an analog car. GD

If it's nice, sell it and find a Gen 2. GD

Low range gearset is not in the "transfer case" (t-case is just for sending power to the rear). It's in the main transmission, and low gear is applied before all other gears. Changing the gears means complete transmission dissasembly, and re-shimming of virtually everything down the line for the new gears to mesh properly. Sadly it's cost-prohibitive as having gears made is extremely expensive. Probably several thousand for the first set. GD

77?!?! Your funnay. But seriously the EA71 is about 60 HP. The EA81 is 73, or 74 for later large valve head models. People rarely lift gen 1's due to the complexity of the rear end assembly. The rear trailing arms use seperate torsion bars for each wheel, and they are not mounted at right-angles to the body. If you look you will see what I'm talking about. This makes it very difficult to design lift blocks for the rear end. The best way is to put in the torsion tube setup from a Gen 2 in the back. Even this requires some serious welding and fabrication of new mounts for the whole assembly - and they have to be STRONG to support the lift blocks and the torsion tube. Coupled with the lack of low range in the transmission, underpowered engine that cannot be coupled to any of the D/R trannies, and you have a bad recipe. In order to be effective with the large tires afforded by a lift you have to replace: Engine Transmission Entire rear suspension And that's not even counting the lift, tires and everything else. You have to REALLY, REALLY want it. The interior is small, there's no cargo space, power steering isn't even an option (absolute MUST have off-road IMO). Might as well start with a Gen 2 or 3. Tons less work, and won't cost you an arm and a leg. And this HAS been covered many times, just not in the last few months that I can remember. GD

Do a search for threads about it, but the short answer is no. It's just not worth the effort. GD

It's just a cotton gauze filter like a K&N. I use the K&N cleaning kit. You spray the element with a detergent solution, let it sit for 10 minutes and then rinse under a tap. DO NOT use pressurized water, and DO NOT blow it dry with compressed air. Once dry you oil it with aerosol filter oil. GD

If it's SPFI (should be), then that's not a horrible deal, but I've seen as-good/better deals on comparable 4WD's. If you want good mileage (32 - 35 or so) and can live without the 4WD, then it's not a bad deal. Doesn't look too rusty, and the door panels are easy to replace. You should know that these require timing belts about every 60,000 miles, but the engine is non-interferance so if it breaks it won't damage anything. Just replace and go. They generally leak a bit of oil, and the exhuast's can be loud if they have holes which isn't uncommon even in non-rusty states. The engine's are very reliable (with the exception of the timing belts, and head gaskets if you overheat them), and will easily go 200,000 miles+ before needing a head gasket or something else minor. The block's themselves are easily good for 300,000+. Transmissions are even better - no worries for 500,000 or so. Subaru still uses the same design - hasn't really changed it in 20 years. My sedan (86) for example sat for about 3 years in a yard before I got it. $100 and I drove it home. It had 208,000, and now has 230,000. I have about $600 into it total - including a rebuilt Weber ($190). I sugest you get it, replace all the belts (including timing) and hoses. Gives you a chance to check out the water pump, t-belt tensioners, main and cam seals. The complete t-belt set goes for about $60 on ebay...Biggest problems I've had with 20 year old subarus BY FAR is old belts and hoses - any belt or small hose failure will quickly result in an overheat, and likely that will do in the head gaskets rather quickly when they are that old. Basically if you care for the cooling system, and the timing belts these are pretty bulletproof cars. Especially the SPFI version as in your ad there. I should also note that should you experience a HG failure, it's not too big of a job to replace them. Cost is about $40 for both, and it takes about a day as long as you don't need to resurface the heads. They can be done without pulling the engine fairly easily. And you are correct about the axles - they are the same right to left. GD

There's no resistor on a 92 Loyale. Are you refering to the ignitor transistor mounted to the coil bracket? Could be that it wants replacing, but I doubt it. Being a transistor, it either works or does not - there's no real way for it to fail the way you describe as it's a solid state device. Accel coils are junk, and for the SPFI they aren't correct anyway, and could contribute to ignitor failure as the ignitor isn't designed for it. Get a stock Hitachi coil - they run about $40. Also check your 12v supply's to the coil - make sure they are in good condtion. GD

Watch what Lucas does to oil: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm Additives are BOGUS. All the best properties/additives are already present in a *quality* oil additive package. It's one thing to use a "flush" (such as ATF, etc) as a cleaning preperation for SHORT INTERVALS. But don't muck with your oil. There's far, far too many disadvantages to make it worthwhile. GD

My research indicates that they were shipped here without plugs, and each dealer was to install them. Thus it was left up to them to decide the brand they used. Old guy that owned my sedan had circled the champion's in the owners manual as the original plugs. GD

Excelent point - otherwise you will have to rev the engine to around 3,500 RPM for the regulator to self excite. That's how the alt is in my wagon right now cause I neglected to hook up the bulb/resistor when I converted from digi-dash to analog. GD

If you find leaks in the pump body or supply lines, use JB weld to rebuild the sections you need. If you get creative you can make something work with tongue depressors and elmers. It will work in the short term anyway. GD

Highly unlikely - the SPFI's run terrible without the MAF. Would be barely driveable if it even stayed running, and it would set off the CEL for sure. Besides - with the rust on his car, it's more likely to be fuel system related. GD

STi's use the R200 GD

Yep - lower combustion temps = less ping = more timing advance = more power. GD

I like both - for different reasons. But I'm weird that way. A Weber is a beautiful thing, but the SPFI is like a cool "gadget" that I can play with. Both are fun in completely different ways for me. Mostly tho, my idea of "fun" is an experiment in hair-loss for others. GD

No choke for SPFI. Choke's are exclusively the domain of carbs. Could be a high-pressure side fuel leak. Low fuel pressure reaching the throttle body could account for the sputtering, and the leak itself could account for the smell. As you dump more fuel in (hard throttle), the leak is overpowered by the bigger "leak" of the injector (might still be lean, but you probably wouldn't notice as much). Low fuel demand off idle - fuel pump can't get you proper pressure with a high side leak, and low speeds tend to expose lean conditions more. With the rust on your car.... have you checked the surge pot on the end of the fuel pump? Those guys like to rust out it seems. GD

Kid - you just don't know much about oil, and frankly niether do most "mechanics". See - they make money from changing it, and frankly aren't inclined to change their tune much. If they knew much they would own the shop, or would be engineers. That's the way things work. Very few grease monkeys have a proper education other than "lefty lucy, righty tighty". I've worked with enough to know. There are notable exceptions, and some of them are members here.... you guys know who you are Oil contains many things - anti-foaming agents, acid neutralizing agents (acid is a byproduct of combustion [you've heard of acid rain right?], and enters the oil through blow-by gasses}, viscosity modifiers, and many other things. Engine oil is really only about 80% oil with the rest being the "additive package". Now - allow me to educate you on oil theory a bit. First, different oil's have different abilities with regards to "suspension". This is the oil's ability to keep particulates from touching the friction surfaces (if it weren't for this property, oil would do us no good at all with regards to friction). Those particulates bond with impurities already found in non-synthetic oils and tend to settle out more quickly. Synthetic oil has NO impurities by it's very nature (it is created from condensed oil vapors rather than "refined" from a constant liquid state). Thus synthetic oil is more uniform as it's molecule sizes are much more tightly controlled. This gives it's molecule's added abilities with regard to suspension, and molecular adhesion. These features are what allow it to maintain adequate lubrication at higher impurity concentrations. This ability further reduces the tendancy for those impurities to act like "sand" and cause MORE impurities. This further enhances the life of the oil as not only does the synthetic allow the impurities to stay suspended, but it also reduces the delta (rate of change) of impurity production. So what I'm saying in laymans terms is that while you are correct in thinking that the same amount of "dirt" will be there (in some sense, reality is the production of heavy metals is lower), your uniformed conclusion is fualty because you are not aware of the differences that synthetics bring to the equation. I sugest you read up on synthetic oils. GD

Regardless of what method you use on the cross-member, the stock EA81 4WD lever will work - you just cut and add exactly 1" to the rod. Then use the stock 5 speed linkage minus the 4WD shifter part. That's what Jerry does, but all I got from him was the cross-member and I did the linkage myself per his instructions. I could show you pics of my interior, but it simply looks like an EA81 :-p. It's got the black EA82 shifter rod instead of the chrome, but that's really the only difference. It's a really simple mod to make the interior stay looking stock.... and I got to keep my beautiful new shifter boot I got from Mick.... But if you don't have welding skilz, then Mick's method above works fine too - get a 4WD lever from an 85 - those are the easiest to grasp. Oh, and the EA81 tranny mounts suck... HARD CORE. While you could definately use them..... let me put it this way. They suck so hard I fabbed up 5 speed mounts to my 4 speed cause I couldn't stand those skinny little things anymore.... here's my write up from when I did that - might give you some ideas. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/4speed_mounts.html GD

Clearing memory is the same procedure as D-Check just with both sets connected..... Warm engine, Ignition on, depress pedal fully, release to halfway for min. 2 seconds, release fully, start and drive till you either get a code, or the all-clear blinking CEL. You have to run the full D-Check for the codes to go away. The alternative is to leave the battery disconnected for a while and the ECU will lose it's memory. Your first, and most important goal is to make it run in D-Check and fix the codes in the order they are reported. Once you accomplish that, the ECU will be able to help you. The codes from u-check are useless as the diagnostic routines are very simple and not always capable of giving correct information if there are multiple failures. GD

No - They are R160's, and the LSD's are distinguised only by the label. They do not have the fins like the larger models. They will also turn like a locked/spooled rear when you turn one tire instead of opposite rotation like an open diff. GD