Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

GeneralDisorder

Members
  • Posts

    23391
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    438

Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. Sounds fine. That's normal. There shouldn't be any advance at idle anyway. The Haynes manual is just trying to be thorough, but there's no need to plug anything. Yep - the pot diaphram is shot so you aren't getting probably any real advance from it. There's a place in Portland that can rebuild them for like $25. Outer port should be left open as you say. You can try the junk yard too. The pot just unbolts from the distributor so you don't have to replace the whole disty. GD
  2. It is a rare occurance indeed when the exalted one bestows us with "skipture". Thank you wise one, for your words echo out across the land and lay low those who seek to poison our thoughts. The Skip has spoken. So shall it be. GD
  3. I think they are 8x1.25mm Don't use a 1/2" torque wrench. It's not designed for low torque like that, and you will snap the bolts. Get a inch/pounds 3/8" wrench for them. GD
  4. He's using the 4 speed D/R, and the 4 speed's had the same lever for single range and dual range. The push-button single range was an EA82 thing. GD
  5. I use a wire wheel chucked into a drill. As for torque - 12 to 14 is fine. But the key is to wire wheel the bolts, and chase the threads in the block till the bolts run in real smooth. Otherwise your torque's won't be accurate. If these steps aren't taken carefully, the gaskets will leak sooner or later. It's just a sensitive mating surface that is often overlooked. GD
  6. Any single wire narrow band should work as long as it fits. Speed sensor is in the speedometer. It's either wireing, or a problem with the guage cluster itself. Being a digi it shouldn't be too complicated inside. Probably just a wheel with a magnet or something. Both are in the shifter mechanism.... actually they ARE the shifter mechanism if you get my meaning. They are built right into it, and if they are shot, you'll have to replace the whole unit likely. Your hessitation is probably the O2 sensor. I'm not sure exactly what you changed with the fuel cap, but *if* everything else is normal, it really shouldn't matter. The only possible explanation I could see for it would be a vacuum leak created through the vent line to the tank.... but that would probably require some other components to be bad as well, or the vacuum lines hooked up wrong. GD
  7. There's no such beast. All hatchbacks (EA81 and EA82) were 2 door's. GD
  8. Probably not on an 89. The 85/86(maybe some 87) 4WD rear coil-overs had 3 adjustment notches that you could change with a pair of channel locks. Later coil-overs didn't have the adjustment notches. Front struts are the same as EA81's - there's two lower spring perch adjustment nut's to raise the front suspension. GD
  9. The two trannies are IDENTICAL. Clear enough? Only difference is that one doesn't have the low range, but that's all self-contained in the tranny itself. You don't have to worry about it. GD
  10. Yeah - they do appear to be either modified IDF's or possibly asian copies of same. Perhaps one reason these didn't come stock is that there wasn't a good source of japanese carbs suitable for this type of setup. That, and the messy linkage and tuning with two carbs on seperate manifolds. GD
  11. Only 82 GL's had the center lamp. DL's did not. GD
  12. GCK's are brand new - so in theory are better than MWE's. I've got 4 of them, and never had any problems since I switched - you can ask anyone: I'm HARD on axles. Neither has anyone else that's run them that I know of. At any rate, I will not touch ANY remaned axle. MWE maybe - but GCK's are cheaper, and I'll take new over reman any day even if the claim is that all parts are new. GD
  13. Yeah - a member that I offroad with has a set. Seems fine - he said they rub a little on bumps sometimes, but he hasn't beat anything like he should either. GD
  14. But the 4EAT is electronic, and it's not worth the wireing dilemma putting it into a 3AT car. If the car already had the 4EAT then it might be alright, but the question then becomes a matter of the electronic controls being the same. It's quite possible they were on early legacies, but there's a point in production at which that's sure to change - at the least 96 when ODBII came into effect it changed.... possibly before that time as well. GD
  15. They do look similar, but remember the EA81 picture clearly has them as downdrafts, not sidedrafts. Mikuni's are also used on many motorcycles - great little carbs avalible in some gigantic sizes. The Bonnevile Justy GSR used three 40mm mikuni's on a 997cc engine. GD
  16. Not if you want power. 80/81/82 EA81's came with smaller intake valves. 2mm difference in valve size. You need 83+ heads. They are all the same beyond that, and performance heads like the RAM dual's are extremely expensive and require custom manifolds. GD
  17. #1 have you CLEANED the IAC and hoses? They get caked up with carbon and won't allow the needed air to flow. #2 Does it change once it's warmed up? If so I would say you have a fualty CTS that's reading hot when it's cold. #3 you may have to adjust the IAC air screw to bring the idle up to normal, but don't touch it till you are sure you have to, or unless you have already been mucking with it, or somone else has. #4 NEVER, EVER, under any circumstances touch the throttle body stop screw. Just telling you so you know. It's not for adjusting, it's only there to keep the throttle plate from jamming in the bore when it's closed. It should have a white paint mark on it from the factory, and is NEVER to be touched. The FSM doesn't even have a procedure for setting it should you accidentally change it. GD
  18. This is the only pic I've ever found - it's of a race spec EA81 advertisement. I don't beleive these ever came on anything stock - possibly even in Japan as all the dual carb EA81 RX engines I've seen were single port. That's how us US guys can bolt on the dual carb manifold. Clearly it's a monster, and used for rally racing. HP.... who knows but the JDM single port dual carbs were 108. I'm betting this is pushing quite a bit more than that. The difference is clearly seen as the standard production RX dual carb has the kidney shaped blue air filter box, just with two studs instead of 3, and covers dual Hitachi carbs. This engine has two carbs (god knows what, but clearly MONSTER downdrafts), and NO manifold. It uses two seperate air filters, and in the rally cars they had dust control snorkel attachements and such. Crazy stuff, but as I said I've never, EVER seen a picture of one of these in a production car. I'm guessing because they were special limited production items, and possibly not street legal. Hard to say. Here's your RX dual carb: As said tho - good luck ever finding a set. Better bet is to just buy a set from RAM. GD
  19. They made dual-CARB heads, not dual port. They are still siamesed ports, but the valves are reversed like the EA82 for better flow. Dual port heads are essencially unicorns - rumored to exist, but no one has ever seen one. The exception is the RAM performance heads - they are dual port, but they are modified stock heads. GD
  20. Pah! High School physics is easy and fun. Try college physics w/calculus if you want to be confused. At least it was open book.... not that it helped much. GD
×
×
  • Create New...