GeneralDisorder

Looks pretty damn japanese to me. http://www.tanzawa.or.jp/~paraut/page01/page01.html Leave your feelings about how it "sounds" at home. This is a place for facts. Try google next time. A bit of searching shows that Atsugi/Unisia/Paraut were all the same company prior to 1987. If you have a look at any original subaru pump from the early 80's it says "Atsugi" right on it, and later castings say "Paraut". GD

YOU ARE NOT LISTENING. There's no difference. Both me, and Emily from CCR have told you this. Paraut is the OEM manufacturer of all EA series subaru oil and water pumps. PERIOD. Your original factory pump came from the same production, as did any parts from the dealership. You are spending more for NO REASON. I'm the last person you have to preach to about dealer parts. Beleive me. I'm getting close to 8,000 posts, and I've been here for long enough to know a thing or two. And see my link above - with my wholesale discount at Lithia, the dealer pump IS about $80, and it's NOT aftermarket. GD

The original IS a parut. They made both the original oil and water pumps FOR subaru. I've bought many parut pumps and they are 100% identical down to the Fuji emblem emobossed on the casting. And as far as I know there is NO aftermaket manufacturer of subaru oil pumps. GMB makes water pumps, but I've never seen a listing for an oil pump other than the OEM Parut pumps. Just go try to find a listing for one - they simply don't exist. The Parut's are still made - both for the EA81 and the EA82, and my local dealer can easily get them. Subaruparts.com (also a dealer) listing: http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=15010AA016 (notice how it's listed as IN STOCK?) You my friend, got ripped off, and lied to. GD

Looks like some sort of safari tour vehicle. Would be really cool for a parade.... I would sugest that anyone planning something like this consult the laws in their area regarding riding in cargo areas. I know here in OR it's legal so long as all the regular belted seats are full. But in some areas I heard of people being pulled over for using the stock Brat seats - although that's usually a case of the cop not knowing what's stock and what isn't. GD

Last geniune Parut one I bought was $65 from my local discount house. Anything over $100 is rediculous. Dealerships charge whatever they please. Find a friendly one like Lithia that will give you wholesale. I get wholesale on all my old gen parts. My parts guys are very good to me. GD

2 versions: 80/81: colored chrome door logo - called a "passing lamp" 82: Black, more hidden door - called a "center lamp" Standard equipment on GL 4WD's. Does not fit any other configurations without cutting of the grill, etc. Except 82 through 84 DL single headlight models - it would more or less bolt into those if you have the grill to go with it. GD

But it really doesn't matter - since the double input vacuum advance is used on the feedback Hitachi - regardless of 2WD or 4WD it's function remains the same. That's how the system is designed, and that's the question which was asked by Bob. GD

No no no. THIS is humor.... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/concrete.jpg GD

Yep - and it usually takes SEVERAL severe overheats to blow them too. It's very often a cumulative thing. There's no question the turbo's are *less* reliable than a non-turbo. But that goes for virtually every gasoline turbo car built.... ever. There are a few exceptions (EJ22G for example), but for the most part they are problem children no matter what company built them. But there's also no reason to think that a properly rebuilt turbo can't be run for many, many years with the right owner standing behind (and often under the hood) of it. GD

Looks elsewhere - your Weber is brand new, so your mileage is probably related to something else - tire inflation, roof rack.... who knows, but the idle settings have basically nothing to do with mileage - once your are rolling, the idle circuit is complete inoperative. The mileage is about the jetting, and a factory new Weber will already be "set up" for optimal mileage and power. Make SURE your choke is openeing 100%, as even a small amount of lean to the plate will cause increased fuel consumption. Look for your mileage to be around 28 MPG give or take, and make SURE you know how to calculate it. Average your results over several tankfulls to eleminate differences in "top off" amounts at the station. Don't pay someone to mess with a brand new Weber - they will probably jack it up, and it's likely not your problem. GD

The fast idle cam keeps the throttle open a bit when the choke is closed.... pressing hard will "snap" it closed, but it's supposed to be open a little - have you checked to make sure the choke is openeing 100% before you adjust the cable slack? Idle mixture is something you play with - you play with the speed, then the mixture - back and forth till you get it where you want it. I like mine at about 800 to 900 idle speed personally. GD

Mileage and previous ownership have a lot to do with it. But not the second year for the ENGINE, so not really applicable Your loss. Mechanic in the army here. Tons of experience with GM garbage. I wouldn't own one - not a stock "consumer" one anyway. Try searching a GM forum. You'll find the same things, but the problems aren't "minor", and are generally fixed with a new engine or transmission, or the car is scrapped cause they are cheap to replace. So what's the point of this? Your grandma knows more about subaru's than you?? Well that should have been aparent by now to anyone reading this. By all means please try out some other brands. When you find one that has the ability to take the punishment of a subaru and last 20 years with extremely poor maintenance, and owners such as yourself - hit us up. You aren't going to get many "touchy feely" responses from pissing all over your subaru in a subaru forum.... sorry GD

And the pump is still the same trochoid (SP??) pump design used on the EA81, and from my experience the EA81 pumps want replacing every 100k for best oil pressure. That doesn't always seem to be the case with the EA82's - but it comes down to maintenace too - the same wear factors are present, so it may be time for a new pump. GD

Hello? 20 year old car here.....DUH! 35K doesn't mean squat. If anything that *can* mean worse problems because some damn fool had his sticky fingers all over it and BLEW UP the first engine. Rebuilt you say? What was replaced and what wasn't? Were quality parts used? We established that your intake gaskets weren't proper OEM.....Etc, etc. You have no room to judge the EA82T line based on your limited experience with an EARLY model that's had who-knows how many devieant hands all over it before you got it. The EA82's have certain problems - fact. But if you know what they are, each and every one can be overcome and the car can live a long, reliable life. Judging an entire model line that ran for 6 years based on a single 20 year old car from the 2nd year production (and a performance [such as it was] model of the T to boot) is silly. Besides that - virtually all the problems you have listed resulted directly from your lack of skill, or from 20 year old rubber - which isn't going to change no matter what car we talk about. Having said all that - I wouldn't own one . Fact is, my Weber'd sedan is plenty fast for everyday driving. Ask anyone that's rode in it GD

For hot climate, run 30/70 coolant mixture, or even 20/80 for tropical environments. In places like Hawaii they sell it pre-mixed that way. Nissan Maxima alt will fit - same casing, but it's 90 amp instead of 55. GD

Just use a punch. Don't bother looking around for a rental - no one will have it. GD

#1. Never (NEVER) use RTV on the oiling system. Bits can break off, lodge in a small passage in the block, and then you are calling around for a replacement engine. Oil only. #2. Lifter ticking is often a result of one or a combination of these items: Bad oil pump seals Bad cam case o-rings Worn out oil pump Dirty lifters Worn lifters #3. The longer the lifters have been ticking, the more likely they are worn (the ticking causes accelerated wear) and no amount of oil pressure will keep them inflated properly. Only remedy is new or rebuilt lifters. There's a link to a place floating around the board that does them for a few bucks each. GD

As to the between-valve cracks - that's not just a turbo thing. Every single EA82 I've pulled apart (SPFI, Carb, Turbo) has those cracks to one degree or another. Some I've had people insist on repairing, and others I've done nothing. Didn't make a bit of difference either way. My sedan has them - still gets 28 - 30 Mpg, and runs like a champ with the Weber. Too much heat *could* expand those cracks, but usually the HG's go first. Also - you are aware there are 3 different generations of turbo heads right? Gen 1's and 2's are more likely to crack. Gen 3's were only availible as service parts, never installed from the factory.... from the few reports I've heard on here they are pretty much impossible to crack, but you still have the same head gasket problems. O-ring the block, replace the bolts with studs, use quality head gaskets, and it should hold at least 15 psi with proper management - probably more with some forged pistons from RAM. NOT stock electronics and injectors - would be far to lean and you'll destroy the pistons. Thing is - all that work is a huge waste of money when there's EJ22T's out there to be found that don't need any of the special work to be good to 300+ HP - something you will NEVER make reliably with an EA82T. 200 HP is possible, but 175 is more likely the highest you really want to go for reliability. The race spec EA82T's were 170. GD

Basically the same engine, yeah. Think of it as a "longer" EA82. But the front is different - the timing belt system differs, and the the oil/water pumps are different part numbers, but largely the same in design. They still have the cam tower o-rings, and if those weren't replaced with the reinfoced units..... Pretty much the same lifter design tho, so if it's ticking it's lifter oil pressure that's at fualt. There's the pump, and it's seals, and the cam tower seals, so between those two some air could have crept in. If the engine only has 20k, then I would suspect poor seals rather than lifters. One thing I have noticed is that engines that are left to tick a LOT end up with worn lifters to the point that they will not stop ticking even with correct oil pressure. So there is some arguement to support fixing the TOD promptly rather than ignoreing it. But rebuilt lifters aren't real expensive either so it's really not a gigantic deal. GD

Yeah - my EA82 feedback sedan got a Weber after 5,000 miles of dinking with the feedback. There's a boost sensor on the passenger strut tower that's pretty much always bad, and cost's about $300 for a replacement. Plus it has the same problems as the rest of the non-feedback Hitachi's. Too small, vacuum secondary, and choke spring failure. On the plus side, I've never touched the ECU - I just removed the bulb for the CEL, and the ECU keeps the fuel pump running for me - that's it's only job now. Weber power is soooo nice. Freeway merging with a Hitachi is scary. GD

And jeep tubs, etc. Fiberglass isn't about strength - although it will flex a little bit before it snaps. That hole is tiny, and besides needing a mount for the seat-belt, doesn't have any real structural members in it. I would use fiberglass unless you can get someone to weld or pick up a small unit. I would rip out the seat belts and put in a set or three point harnesses so I didn't have to worry about the mount. Heck - it's supposed to be a sports car anyway right? If you must have the mount, I would say welding is the only choice. I would do the sheet metal, and then put a peice of bar stock down to reinforce the mount section and then drill and bolt the belt to it. GD

Not as hard as you think actually - cut out the bottom of the stock airbox, a couple bits from a coffee can, and some JB weld and all sins are hidden again. Take it back off when you are done unless you like it. With the airbox in place, it's real hard to see much of anything under there, and as long as it passes the sniffer, they won't even care. Besides that, some places don't even do the underhood inspection. Out of the 10 or so odd times I've taken a subaru through here in oregon probably 2 of them they actually lifted the hood. And even then they didn't know what they were looking at - marked down NA next to the air injection system just cause they didn't see a smog pump GD

Weber performs a LOT better. And it should pass WA state emissions - other have done it. Sounds like your feedback system is pretty whacked out - three different engines..... too many cooks in the kitchen. I would write it off and do the Weber swap, or better yet the SPFI. Feedback EA82's need the ECU to power the fuel pump, so unless it's been wired around, you still have it under the dash. Here's my write up on the SPFI - it's geared to EA81's, but the only real difference is you wouldn't have to modify the distributor for your application. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html Generally the SPFI cheaper than a brand new Weber, and about the same price as a used Weber if you rebuild it yourself. The SPFI is good for about 2 MPG more than a properly tuned Weber, but doesn't require any tuneing, and generally has better driving charateristics, fewer problems, and just as much power. It's manifold flows better, and the SPFI engines were already rated at 6 HP more than the carbs, so it's quite a decent setup. You'll spend more time and likely more money trying to make the feedback Hitachi work than you will on a swap. And either way you go with the swap you will pass emissions, and be better off in the long run. The feedback Hitachi was one of the worst carbs the Subaru's ever came with - especially the EA82 version. Second only to the EA81 carter/weber single barrel feedback GD

It's part of the "tool kit". Comes in a vinyl bag with a screwdriver, pliers, two combination wrenches, and a plug socket. Goes in the back in one of the side compartments or in your glovebox. GD

Every single component of the SPFI system has the Hitachi logo. If they farm out stuff..... well who knows, but I would think they would just develop stuff like that in-house being they are big in electronics - or were at that time anyway. There's no way to tell without contacting subaru of Japan, or Hitachi directly... neither of which would be likely to give a crap about finding out anything for you, and likely would be fearful of NDA's so wouldn't say squat. And as far as ND stuff - that depends on the part. A lot of ND things (such as the ND EA81 distributor/coil setup) I actually prefer over the Hitachi units. The original Denso starters are pretty damn rugged too. GD