GeneralDisorder

You *could* do a lot of things manually, but it really doesn't make for a nice vehicle to drive, and in this case it's beneficial to run the AC compressor year round in order to circulate the compressor oil. I'll get you a pic of mine.... probably tommorow. It took maybe all of an hour to make it work. GD

Yes - several Alaskan members have commented on that. The Weber (without any hot air riser system), can ice up. Usually the throttle plates will stick open when the engine is reving hard. Snowman (who wrote the EA82 SPFI conversion manual) swapped out to SPFI partly because of this very problem. Here in the NW, it's not a problem. Temps rarely get below 20 here. So it's good to at least that low in my exprience, and none of mine have had trouble even up at the mountain where it's often closer to 10-15 degrees. GD

It's probably an EA82 3-door coupe..... I'm not 100% on this (someone correct me if I'm wrong), but I don't beleive EA81 hatchbacks came in automatic.... at least not in 86. I've never seen one that I can remember anyway ..... possibly one reason they never made a turbo hatch (besides the movie versions). I've seen 2WD 4 and 5 speeds, and 4 speed 4WD's.... but that's it. GD

Are they the possesors of the bonneville Justy? GD

Well - if you installed the Weber in the same basic config as the Hitachi, then the idle up should be to the right of the carb attached to the manifold. You will have to "adjust" the mounting so that it can actuate the lever as it was originally intended to do. I used some washers under the bracket, and I did some cutting to the mounting holes on the bracket so the solenoid would move up a bit more. A also welded a bolt to the arm of the solenoid to get it futher forward and to the left so it hits the throttle arm correctly. GD

He can't, because it isn't. GD

Nope - backfireing through the carb is an indication your valve timing is off. Make sure you are using the valve timing marks on the flywheel not the ignition timing marks, and put the drivers side cam mark straight up, the passenger side straight down, and throw the belts on. ONLY after you have done this, set the timing on the distributor. Comp. test won't help you if the valve timing is off. GD

You have to do a little custom fab work to make the AC idle-up solenoid work correctly with the weber. It's just one of those things.... GD

The infinity reference's fit in the stock locations no problem (that's what I was refereing to). Can't see em at all with the grills in place. Anything you "adapt" for the dash will be unseen as well. Although you can see a little of the one in the passenger side through the dash's fake vent speaker grill. GD

Yeah - IIRC, the drivers side is something silly like 2.5 x 3.25. The stereo shop will laugh at you. However, the new Infiniti reference's are thinner than they used to be, and actually fit in the door's without hitting the window mechanism now. Pretty good sound if you have a decent head unit to drive em. GD

The problem is that unless you have a lift, your body needs to be right where the damn jack is so you can get your head, and arms up over the tank to unhook the top lines. And as far as I know there aint any access panels to it either. I don't have any carpet in the back of my wagon, and I welded D rings to the floor for cargo straps, and there's nothing there but corrugated metal. The sending unit is on the rear of the EA81 tanks so there doesn't need to be an access panel for it. GD

Should be a straight bolt in of the long block - with the exception of welding up the AIS ports on the heads of the carb block. GD

Nothing you can actually buy. Just have to make something fit. I got a 3x5 in the passenger side, and about the only thing for the drivers side would be like a 2" tweeter :-\. Have to custom fit anything you buy of course. GD

On the other hand, Rguyver had SPFI, Turbo, and NOS on his lifted hatch (NA EA81 hatch). Didn't blow it up - ended up selling it to some guy (but kept the NOS setup), and I beleive he now has it back again. The SPFI didn't like positive manifold pressure, but he had a second injector rigged up to it to compensate.... apparently it was pretty quick. But then he also knows what he's doing..... he currently has an EJ20G in his lowered 5 lug Brat. Don't attempt stuff like this unless you know what you are doing, and are willing and able to fail (possibly messily). GD

RAM sells kits too. Also Delta Cam could probably set you up as well. They have all that valve oreiented paraphernalia, or can get it. The MPFI/SPFI springs are stiffer than the carb versions too. That's one reason for the 500 RPM higher redline. GD

The boot slips off when you unscrew the tie rod end. It's not - they never wear out. GD

Been done, bad idea as they bend easily. Drill some chevy rims or find some pugs. Even if you used them, you would still have to cut the fenders AND lift it for 29's. Trust me. GD

4,000 is nothing for the EA engines. The aircraft guys run their EA81's at 7,000 all day. That's their "cruise" speed. My Brat w/5 speed is at 3500 RPM at 80 MPH.... that's a bit too fast anyway, and the RPM is no concern. And I rarely shift any of my engines before 6,000. GD

All GL manual tranny Brat's were dual range. DL's were single range as were auto's. GD

Any 83 is desireable - not quite as much as an 85 through 87 (hydro lifter), but still as desireable as most other gen 2's. The GL's are going to be more desireable than the DL (no t-tops, single range). Do the 5 speed conversion. GD

Autozone. About $25 per front wheel with new seals. Timken brand. The rear's (4WD) are about $60 per wheel with seals. Be prepared tho - they are press-fit. You will need a brass drift to pound out the old bearings, and a tapered drift to pound the new ones in. Technically, by the book they are supposed to be put in with a press, but it's not required in practice. Also helps if you put them in the freezer overnight after you have packed them. GD

None of the interior colors will match. Only 80/81 Actually, the fenders won't fit from later models as the cut-outs for the side markers aren't the same, and the antenna is on the wrong fender. Partially true - the wireing is WAY different - you would need both FSM's to sort it out, and even then it's a nightmare. Also ALL GL's had the tach, oil pressure, etc - even 80/81. Only the DL's came without so there would be no reason to do this anyway. GD

well - yeah it's just like driving the 82 4 speed, but with an extra overdrive gear. None of these trannies are particularly good for "race" applications. The syncro's aren't built for it, and the 5 speed has TWO overdrive gears GD

Nope - philbin opens them up "like a tin can" and replaces the diaphram with universal rubbber material cut to fit the specific application. I've seen em do it. You can't source new one's anymore. GD

The guy at CCR that used to do the bushings (they don't do disty's anymore) said he ruined about a dozen before he got good at doing the bushings. Apparently if they aren't reemed out perfectly straight, the new bushings will fail real quick..... I wouldn't trust a place that's never done it before. Philbin does a LOT of distributors for shops around here - they just happen to also do electric motors and such too. GD