GeneralDisorder

Brushes/rotor in the pump are shot. You can probably get by for a while by smacking the pump when it won't turn. GD

Did I stutter? GD

Have you ever ran a DGV Weber? Ever ran a Hitachi??? Compared to the orginal Hitachi, it has a LOT of benefits. Not the least of which is the availibility of inexpensive adaptor plates. While an SU (or pair) might be nice, not everyone has the ability to make up any old adaptor plate or sync up multiple carbs. Please - run Hitachi's if you like them/think they are better. But don't go around telling folks there's nothing worse than a DGV/DFV/5200..... because there is. GD

You like that? Check this out: http://www.drivetechnologies.com/ And watch what it can do: http://www.drivetechnologies.com/videos/truck.wmv Now if only anyone could actually afford a set . Maybe when the patent runs out. GD

Add to this that u-joints can accomidate at most 15 to 20 degrees of angle (and that's pushing it), and CV's can do upwards of 30 degrees (Porsche 930's can do 28, and the race versions 30 even). You would be losing articulation ability with the u-joints as the stock CV's are easily capable of 20 degrees already. GD

Here's a good start: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint Check out the section on angular speed. Basically without two u-joints running at equal and opposite angles, the changes in velocity will rip the joints apart in short order. This manifests itself as "vibration". Or (under larger differences in angle) as joint failure. And I quote from the page above: Obviously this in not possible in a front suspension - not and still allow the wheels to turn. U-joints are simply NOT applicable to IFS, and you won't find anyone useing them for this reason. GD

I seriously considered mentioning that I too was feeling lazy - but I was in fact too lazy even to mention it. GD

Nope - you CANNOT use u-joints on an IFS. It's really that simple. Try it out if you don't beleive the thousands and thousands of vehicles produced without a single one using u-joint IFS. Again - read up on CV and u-joint theory and you'll understand the fundamental differences. They CAN be used on rear independant. There's many examples of that - early Gen 1 Subaru 4WD being one, and early Z-car's being another. Not to mention Jag's, Corvette's, etc. GD

You cannot use u-joints on the front of a subaru. Read up on u-joint application and theory and you'll understand why. *hint*: it isn't called a "constant velocity" joint for no reason. GD

Having done all THREE (there's two types of EA81 cable mounts) multiple times, the EA82 is far easier on the pedal end. GD

83/84 Automatic trans ONLY 85+ all engines (including EA82's and up). GD

Not that I can think of. It replaces the inlet - the Hitachi one should have a large inlet, and a smaller return pipe to release pump pressure when the float is closed. You can do anything if you want it bad enough. I made the one on my EA82 work with some washers, and a bit of cutting and moving things around. GD

Don't have to adjust them every 15,000 and quieter valve operation. They are also capable of higher reving, and stronger valve springs due to the steel push rods. Solid lifters have aluminium push rods with steel caps. As for retrofitting - no, they cannot be installed to a solid lifter block without complete engine dissasembly (splitting the case halves). Even then it's a bad idea as they cannot be serviced (removed) due to the difference in the block castings. The push rods and the rocker assembly are also different. All hydro lifter engines, and 83/84 solid lifter engines (manual trans) also have 2mm larger intake valves resulting in a 1 HP increase in engine rating. GD

That's pretty typical I've found - I had one like that and it wouldn't idle smooth. I swapped out the carb body with another I had. With the jetting you have, it's almost a gaurantee they are F-50's anyway. But to remove them (you should for cleaning anyway) make a tiny "L" shaped hook with the end of a paper clip and catch the hook on the inside of the tube - it's perforated with many holes, so just grab one and pull it out. You may need to soak the carb body in carb cleaner overnight to free them. I've found that a good rule is that a decent running weber is going to cost you about $200 - $300. Either for one that's rebuilt, or a cheap one that needs it and you spend the remainder on parts, cleaner, adaptor plate, etc. And lets not forget your time - that's worth something. Last one I did cost me $190 total, and I consider that a good deal. Would have been more if I hadn't had another body to swap for the worn shaft. No - the power steering on the EA81 is different than the EA82. Ditch the vapor seperator, and just run a straight through filter. Cap the return line to the tank if that old weber doesn't have a screw-in fuel supply barb. If it does, then screw in the one from the Hitachi and attach the return line to it. Naw - it's really pretty easy actually. You'll get the hang of it. Just rebuild it carefullly or you'll have trouble making it run right. Huh - well it's really popular here. But I'm sure you can find something. Basically it's just liquid metal with a hardening agent. They claim you can fix cracked engine blocks with it, etc GD

Jets all look fine. That's an old school manual choke (all of them are stamped DGAV, regardless of choke type). Emulsion tubes are under the air bleeds - the ones that are 160/170. That's a really old Italian weber..... really old. I would make sure it doesn't have any play in the thottle shafts or choke plate shafts before using it. And it looks like it needs about 50 gallons of carb cleaner run over it plus a rebuild kit. Swap out to an electric choke or something too. It's JB weld, not JD. Do a google on it - it's a two part metal impregnated epoxy. GD

If you want to do it right, then do away with the leading rod completely, and build a lower A arm instead of the weak single arm/leading rod system. The leading rods are already very easy to bend, and one of the problems with 6"+ lifts has been the tendancy for the lengthened leading rods (yes - it's not a new idea - it's a component of every t-case lift) to bend or break. There's been several people that have built custom control arms from tube to lengthen them, and change the leading rod system to accomidate more travel. If you want to do it, just use EA82 control arms - they are already angled forward. At any rate, from experiecne I can tell you that regardless of what you do you will still need a lift for any tires with decent tread patterns. Running without a lift, while possible, will just result in you beating the hell out of the frame rails and floor pan - you car will look like a crumpled soda can in short order. Not to mention the cutting that will be required on the fenders will leave you with a mess that will look like rusty hell about a week after you do the butchery. Articulation will be severely limited to almost all down-travel which tends to break more axles, and doesn't work well off-road. Flat running axles with nearly the same up and down travel are best. GD

Way I did it was to aquire a second u-joint and cut the 2" splined section from a junkyard steering column or non-power jack-shaft and use it to join the two u-joints together. No welding required, and it's been that way for several years. This also eliminated the rag joint, which makes for much more positive steering control off-road. I wouldn't run without power steering in my trail rig. It's dark so I can't take a pic just at the moment, but it should be pretty easy to visualize what I did. And if you *do* keep the rag joint - replace it with a VW urethane one. The stock rubber ones can (and I've seen it happen) tear apart. This of course happens at the worst possible time when you are in 2 foot of muck, and then have no steering control at all. GD

Have to run one down on ebay - the Momo adaptors are out of production. Grant GT makes one for the EA81, but I don't think they have one for an EA82. GD

Probably timing belt. GD

Are you 100% sure you didn't lose the accelerator pump check valve ball? It's a tiny little plastic guy about 1/8" in diameter. If you didn't get that in, or the got the pump spring in upside down, the accelerator pump will not function and you will get the slight hesitation when warm like that. As for the fast idle - that's all done with the linkage and the choke setting. It took me about 7 to 10 try's to get to a point where I could rebuild a Hitachi and have all the bits work as designed - especially the fast idle/choke mechanism. Weber, or SPFI swap is the prefered "fix" for all Hitachi related problems. GD

Just install the correct 23 spline axles. You may need to use a triangle file on the splines to clean them up but it should be alright. It should have been pretty obvious that it wasn't fitting tight enough when you assembled it. GD

I'm not sure what you are talking about - moving the rear suspension will do nothing at all for the front, and there's no need to lift anything in the rear for larger tires. A set of EA82 adjustable rear coil-overs and a 5" section of 2x4 angle iron will do the whole rear end lift for at least 28" tires...... Fitting larger tires on the front is going to require some form of lift - period. Block lifts are not expensive to build - you need 10 blocks for the front - metal supermarkets down near airport way will cut you the neccesary blocks for $5 each - 4" for the cross member, and 3" for the radius rod plates, then you just have to drill them and buy some bolts. The strut tower blocks can either be made yourself, or bought from a few of the various people building lifts for a reasonable amount. Steering shaft extension requires a $5 bit of tubing, and a welder. GD

At that price I would definately grab one as you may find you need it instead of the core when you get inside there. I've heard more cases of the valve failing than the core itself (with regard to leakage, not clogging). GD

Any Alt is going to put out only as much as the system loads the Alt. A system that draws 20 amps will draw the same 20 with a 50 amp alt or a 250 amp alt. The load on the engine is the same either way. The Alt makes no difference - it's the stuff you are running with the alt. So yes - if you turn on 100 amps of stuff (doesn't exist in stock form), and have an alt that can supply that much, then the load on the engine will be 100 amps - neccesarily more than the original 50 amp unit could put out. GD

Well - required wiggling of wires indicates a short - so start looking for a short or connector corrosion. Any evidence of windshield leakage? I've had water kill stuff under the dash before - killed a flasher module in my Brat..... Hope you didn't have to pay for the retards mistake in replacing your ECU. Those basically never fail. GD